Beast55AMG

Hey Everyone,


I was wondering if someone could help me with a problem I am having. Yesterday I was installing some new headers on my 2005 E55 AMG and while I was removing the passenger side manifold I dropped and it seemed to be touching the starter and alternator and a lot of sparking occurred (I forgot to disconnect the battery). Then the alarm sounded for a 1/2 second and it died. I then disconnected the battery in the trunk. Finished the header install.


I checked the voltage of both batteries and they are 12.5 - 12.7 volts.

I reconnected the trunk battery and the alarm will sound but nothing electrical works in the car. I can't even turn the key in the ignition.


Anyone have any ideas?


Thank you for all the future help.

Ian

Beast55AMG

I also checked the trunk and engine compartment fuses and they are good. Haven't specifically tested any of the relay's yet but they looked good when I pulled them out. Is there a fuse/relay I should suspect? I would imagine there is a major point where electricity is interrupted. Why does the alarm sound when I reconnect the battery?


Ian

Rocman8

check under the front passenger floor. pull down the carpet under the dash and remove the 3 10mm plastic nuts that hold down the metal covering. there are a few large fuses there.

Beast55AMG

Thank you for the advice. I looked under the passenger's carpet and unbolted the metal plate. Here is a picture of what it looks like. What exactly should I be looking for here?

Thank you!


Ian

green1212

those black cables thats coming in from the top there are coming in from the front battery and your alternator/relay feed. that thick one towards the bottom there goes all the way to your trunk battery (main battery). what mbworld member is referring to are those fuses there, colored orange and other colors. sometimes that whole module, where all the cables and the fuses are housed in needs to be replaced. thats the main power distribution block as all your alternator and back battery hooks up to that power block. i would agree since thats the first impact of the "shock" you referred to when doing the headers would have occurred there and shorted there to prevent major damage thruout rest of car so start there and check that block!

Beast55AMG

Thank you green1212 for the explanation and advice. So, I looked at those fuses (sorry they were hidden up there and didn't notice them at first). They are mostly 40 amp fuses and the element appeared normal on visual exam. I haven't opened up the black box connecting the trunk battery and the alternator and auxillary battery wires yet but I will do that shortly.

Would you recommend I perform some electrical testing of these connections?

Thanks again.

Ian

green1212

if you can, I have never seen the "inside" of that power distribution block but yeah if you can. you checked all fuses in that block? there is another smaller power block in the trunk by your main battery. there is a smaller power lead going to this power block reason why out positive lead have two cables going to the positive side of battery post. that distribution block has fuses too, check those fuses also, in the trunk down against the wall where a spare tire would go. yeah:talk about electrical, these cars have many!!!

bbirdwell

Try this.


After you check the fuses, assuming the car will power up, you'll need to hook it up to a Star Diagnostic Assistance System to see what, if anything, blew out when you shorted the system.


This could be quite involved. Take it slow and methodically and resolve each issue in turn.


And be sure to tell others why they should disconnect the battery or batteries before working on the car.

SPatykAMG

Sounds like you popped the main fuse which I'm not sure of location or locations on the 211. Do keep in mind that depending on the style of high amp fuse it is you can't tell by looking at it. If this is the case you need to actually test for continuity.

Beast55AMG

Thank you everyone for the replies. Just an update on my problem. My battery, although initially found to have a normal voltage was found to be bad by a battery tester and now with a new battery all the electricity in the car is now functional. The only thing I cannot do is get the starter motor to activate.

I am wondering if the starter motor (which did have a lot of sparking when I dropped the exhaust manifold on it) is bad?

I was able to hook it up to my home STAR diagnostic system which shows no major error messages. It does have a protocol for this problem which involves checking a number of different relays to see if they are blown.

I will provide an update soon when I get this done. Sorry for the late response as I have been working a lot lately and haven't had time (now I am driving my backup car to work - E46 M3).

Thanks again,

Ian

Beast55AMG

Update: Checked relays, all check out good ("click" with voltage applied and resistance goes to 0).


So it sounds like I will next attempt to replace the starter on the car because I may have fried it when all the sparking occurred. Will update everyone on how that goes. Hoping that will get the beast back up and running (and hear the sound with the new headers).


Btw, anyone know any DIY links for starter replacement? Thanks again!


Ian

Beast55AMG

Ok, just wanted to post the final update as I hate it when threads don't have an ending. It turns out it was a fuse (#59). I took it to a local mechanic and they replaced the fuse and it starts right up. I had inspected the fuses prior (visually looked ok) but I guess I should have tested them or tried replacing it just to make sure. Hope this helps someone in the future.
Ian