In What Order To Mod The E55 - Please Help!
05-23-2015, 02:23 PM
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2006 E55
In What Order To Mod The E55 - Please Help!
Hey guys,
New owner of a 2006 E55. I've searched for the answer to this but couldn't find it. If there is a thread on this, my apologies.
I want to start modding the car but need help on the order I should do it in. I have already done some exhaust work. Removed the secondary cats and resonator. Primary cats are still there since i'm in Cali.
So far all I have under the hood is drop in K&N's. I see members selling their mods in the classified section which is where I'll be looking to buy since I need to save as much as possible.
I was told there is a newer and better IC pump for our cars so I was thinking of starting there.
So if you were me, in what order would you mod the car? Thanks in advance!!
New owner of a 2006 E55. I've searched for the answer to this but couldn't find it. If there is a thread on this, my apologies.
I want to start modding the car but need help on the order I should do it in. I have already done some exhaust work. Removed the secondary cats and resonator. Primary cats are still there since i'm in Cali.
So far all I have under the hood is drop in K&N's. I see members selling their mods in the classified section which is where I'll be looking to buy since I need to save as much as possible.
I was told there is a newer and better IC pump for our cars so I was thinking of starting there.
So if you were me, in what order would you mod the car? Thanks in advance!!
05-23-2015, 02:54 PM
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Hey Neighbor! (lol I'm in Pasadena)
Thanks for the reply. I'm a total noob when it comes to cars. Could you tell me what size crank pulley I would need? Is it the larger the better? Also any particular brands of the mods you suggested?
Thanks for the reply. I'm a total noob when it comes to cars. Could you tell me what size crank pulley I would need? Is it the larger the better? Also any particular brands of the mods you suggested?
05-23-2015, 03:47 PM
#4
MBWorld Fanatic!
This topic has been explained in detail several times. Look a couple pages back or use a google search. There may even be a sticky for this information.
05-23-2015, 07:52 PM
#5
MBWorld Fanatic!
Also depends on your long term power goals. In any other state mids or long tubes would be the best first mod. Helps with cooling also. Most do pulley first. My pulley is sitting on my workbench waiting till I'm ready. Not sure if I will do headers in the future
05-23-2015, 08:01 PM
#6
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Reg Maintenance stuff first, if needed (pads/rotors, plugs, fluids etc.).
Everything else depends on how wild you want to go. I would address your cooling as top of list.
Everything else depends on how wild you want to go. I would address your cooling as top of list.
05-23-2015, 08:10 PM
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Thanks guys, big thanks to MJ50 for meeting up and all the info.
I'm going to go cooling first as suggested. I just ordered the new Bosch pump and looking to order either the Weistec H/E ($399) or the EC one ($499)... Any thoughts on which one?
After that I plan on getting the ASP 180 pulley. That seems to have great reviews. I was thinking of getting both the SC pulley and Crank Pulley at the same time. Is the 84mm SC Pulley a good combo with the ASP 180??
And of course a tune with this all... Probably EC tune
I'm going to go cooling first as suggested. I just ordered the new Bosch pump and looking to order either the Weistec H/E ($399) or the EC one ($499)... Any thoughts on which one?
After that I plan on getting the ASP 180 pulley. That seems to have great reviews. I was thinking of getting both the SC pulley and Crank Pulley at the same time. Is the 84mm SC Pulley a good combo with the ASP 180??
And of course a tune with this all... Probably EC tune
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05-23-2015, 08:25 PM
#9
MBWorld Fanatic!
depends on your power goals and how realiable you want the car to be. don't jump into TB or CP just yet because you never know.
you have to read up for hours.
you have to read up for hours.
05-23-2015, 08:36 PM
#10
MBWorld Fanatic!
Spend the money on the pin kit from Buckhead. Pin it to the crank from the get go. It will take a little more time to do, but you'll never worry about it coming off.
05-23-2015, 10:56 PM
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05-24-2015, 02:19 AM
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So much great info, thanks guys. Looks like I'll be getting the brand new PLM from a member on here which is awesome. Can't wait to start putting it all together!!
Seems like headers is another mod I need to do first along with cooling. Any thoughts about which headers to get in Cali? I want to keep the primary cats so I can pass smog next time around. Does that limit me to only short headers? Any suggestions on which ones to go with?
Seems like headers is another mod I need to do first along with cooling. Any thoughts about which headers to get in Cali? I want to keep the primary cats so I can pass smog next time around. Does that limit me to only short headers? Any suggestions on which ones to go with?
05-24-2015, 09:23 AM
#14
MBWorld Fanatic!
I am assuming you are up to date on maintenance and have throughly inspected the engine and trans for oil leaks at the troublesome gaskets and seals. Mercedes was VERY optimistic (and unrealistic) when suggesting maintenance intervals. Your car should have had the fuel pumps, plugs, brake fluid, diff fluid, trans fluid & filter, SC oil and belts swapped out already.
Hopefully you have records to support.
Also buy a spare CPS sensor and put it I the glove box.
What are your goals? Street, strip, DYNO queen, stop light king????
Here is a guideline I have come up with from the last 6 years of modding these cars. While mine is not set up exactly like this, in hindsight this is what I would have done.
After maintenance:
LSD
Data logging
Spilt cooling/upgraded HE (best to try and keep the stock HE in line if you can fit both)
SC pulley
Headers...don't monkey around, the MBH with race cat and xpipe is the best set up for performance and sound. They are worth the extra money
Belt wrap kit with all replacement idlers
DYNO tune
Beyond that you will need more cooling.
I prefer water/meth injection as opposed to a trunk tank. Tanks typically need ice to get the desired results. The injection will keep IATS in check 24/7 and you can use the WW tank for a source. Not for power, just for cooling the charge.
Then 82mm TB
Crank pulley
I have a 178mm Renntech CP. On the highway, running from 60-130, my car runs like a taped ape. A dragon slayer...lol. Around town, the extra weight of the big pulley does reduce torque off the start...boost has a more gradual engagement then the smaller and lighter CP. Add in the fact that a SC pulley is much lighter and easier to install and you see why I suggest it first.
Good luck, and remember the most important thing about our cars...RUN EM HARD!
Hopefully you have records to support.
Also buy a spare CPS sensor and put it I the glove box.
What are your goals? Street, strip, DYNO queen, stop light king????
Here is a guideline I have come up with from the last 6 years of modding these cars. While mine is not set up exactly like this, in hindsight this is what I would have done.
After maintenance:
LSD
Data logging
Spilt cooling/upgraded HE (best to try and keep the stock HE in line if you can fit both)
SC pulley
Headers...don't monkey around, the MBH with race cat and xpipe is the best set up for performance and sound. They are worth the extra money
Belt wrap kit with all replacement idlers
DYNO tune
Beyond that you will need more cooling.
I prefer water/meth injection as opposed to a trunk tank. Tanks typically need ice to get the desired results. The injection will keep IATS in check 24/7 and you can use the WW tank for a source. Not for power, just for cooling the charge.
Then 82mm TB
Crank pulley
I have a 178mm Renntech CP. On the highway, running from 60-130, my car runs like a taped ape. A dragon slayer...lol. Around town, the extra weight of the big pulley does reduce torque off the start...boost has a more gradual engagement then the smaller and lighter CP. Add in the fact that a SC pulley is much lighter and easier to install and you see why I suggest it first.
Good luck, and remember the most important thing about our cars...RUN EM HARD!
05-24-2015, 09:58 AM
#15
MBWorld Fanatic!
[QUOTE=dchl21;6442433]depends on your power goals and how realiable you want the car to be.[QUOTE]
some people just slap on a clutched sc pulley/tune and they are happy.
some people just slap on a clutched sc pulley/tune and they are happy.
05-24-2015, 11:31 AM
#16
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3000 stall , then headers and tune.
__________________
E63 Biturbo, UPD Cold Air induction kit, UPD performance crank pulley and UPD adjustable rear suspension with ride height adjustment.
CL55 UPD Cold Air Boost kit, UPD 3000 stall converter, UPD 77mm SC clutched pulley and beltwrap kit, Custom long tubes, UPD crank pulley , UPD suspension kit, UPD SC pulley, Aux. HE, Trunk tank w/rule 2000 pump, Mezeire pump, UPD 5pc idler set, Aluminum rotor hats.
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E63 Biturbo, UPD Cold Air induction kit, UPD performance crank pulley and UPD adjustable rear suspension with ride height adjustment.
CL55 UPD Cold Air Boost kit, UPD 3000 stall converter, UPD 77mm SC clutched pulley and beltwrap kit, Custom long tubes, UPD crank pulley , UPD suspension kit, UPD SC pulley, Aux. HE, Trunk tank w/rule 2000 pump, Mezeire pump, UPD 5pc idler set, Aluminum rotor hats.
www.ultimatepd.com
instagram @ultimate_pd
facebook.com/ultimatepd
05-24-2015, 12:29 PM
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I am assuming you are up to date on maintenance and have throughly inspected the engine and trans for oil leaks at the troublesome gaskets and seals. Mercedes was VERY optimistic (and unrealistic) when suggesting maintenance intervals. Your car should have had the fuel pumps, plugs, brake fluid, diff fluid, trans fluid & filter, SC oil and belts swapped out already.
Hopefully you have records to support.
Also buy a spare CPS sensor and put it I the glove box.
What are your goals? Street, strip, DYNO queen, stop light king????
Here is a guideline I have come up with from the last 6 years of modding these cars. While mine is not set up exactly like this, in hindsight this is what I would have done.
After maintenance:
LSD
Data logging
Spilt cooling/upgraded HE (best to try and keep the stock HE in line if you can fit both)
SC pulley
Headers...don't monkey around, the MBH with race cat and xpipe is the best set up for performance and sound. They are worth the extra money
Belt wrap kit with all replacement idlers
DYNO tune
Beyond that you will need more cooling.
I prefer water/meth injection as opposed to a trunk tank. Tanks typically need ice to get the desired results. The injection will keep IATS in check 24/7 and you can use the WW tank for a source. Not for power, just for cooling the charge.
Then 82mm TB
Crank pulley
I have a 178mm Renntech CP. On the highway, running from 60-130, my car runs like a taped ape. A dragon slayer...lol. Around town, the extra weight of the big pulley does reduce torque off the start...boost has a more gradual engagement then the smaller and lighter CP. Add in the fact that a SC pulley is much lighter and easier to install and you see why I suggest it first.
Good luck, and remember the most important thing about our cars...RUN EM HARD!
Hopefully you have records to support.
Also buy a spare CPS sensor and put it I the glove box.
What are your goals? Street, strip, DYNO queen, stop light king????
Here is a guideline I have come up with from the last 6 years of modding these cars. While mine is not set up exactly like this, in hindsight this is what I would have done.
After maintenance:
LSD
Data logging
Spilt cooling/upgraded HE (best to try and keep the stock HE in line if you can fit both)
SC pulley
Headers...don't monkey around, the MBH with race cat and xpipe is the best set up for performance and sound. They are worth the extra money
Belt wrap kit with all replacement idlers
DYNO tune
Beyond that you will need more cooling.
I prefer water/meth injection as opposed to a trunk tank. Tanks typically need ice to get the desired results. The injection will keep IATS in check 24/7 and you can use the WW tank for a source. Not for power, just for cooling the charge.
Then 82mm TB
Crank pulley
I have a 178mm Renntech CP. On the highway, running from 60-130, my car runs like a taped ape. A dragon slayer...lol. Around town, the extra weight of the big pulley does reduce torque off the start...boost has a more gradual engagement then the smaller and lighter CP. Add in the fact that a SC pulley is much lighter and easier to install and you see why I suggest it first.
Good luck, and remember the most important thing about our cars...RUN EM HARD!
Maintenance wise I just changed all the fluids with the exception of the coolant. I replaced the engine mounts, both valve gaskets, plugs, and both belts. New Bosch IC pump is on its way and most likely new coolant.
Only thing I have left is what I believe is a vacuum leak from one of the hoses under the car (hissing sound - Car had been sitting under a cover for like a year so I think a critter chewed on one). A small leak at the rear main seal which my mechanic said was a really slow leak and wouldn't worry about it. Now that i'm looking to mod, do I have to start worrying about it? lol. And I have to get the fuel pump looked at as part of that recall. I did smell some fuel from my drivers side rear tire when I was down there. Hopefully MB will agree and change it.
Other than that, the car only has 37k miles on it and runs well.
Goal wise, I'd say stop light king would be the most accurate. I don't plan on ever going to the track. When this car came out with 469hp, I'm sure it was untouchable to like 90% of the cars out there. But now that many cars have sorta caught up, I want to stay ahead and punch it when I need too and kill em!
About the MBH headers, won't that require me to remove the primary cats? I live in Cali, so the last thing I want to do is remove those cats for smog reasons lol.
05-24-2015, 12:48 PM
#19
MBWorld Fanatic!
^Sounds like you've got all the bases covered. Rear main seal will get worse, especially once the boost goes up��.
No experience with Cali, but think there are plenty of guys with LTH there. A race cat won't fly? I know it isn't strictly legal, but around here they pass. Replacing the primary cats will def yield the best power.
Shorties just don't produce the power and sound. I have shorties with stock cat back, very minor performance gain.
If you can make LTH's work, you won't need much more than a SC pulley and cooling to have a very potent street slayer. Most the time they never see you coming
BTW When you do the trans fluid, just drain & fill, no flush.
No experience with Cali, but think there are plenty of guys with LTH there. A race cat won't fly? I know it isn't strictly legal, but around here they pass. Replacing the primary cats will def yield the best power.
Shorties just don't produce the power and sound. I have shorties with stock cat back, very minor performance gain.
If you can make LTH's work, you won't need much more than a SC pulley and cooling to have a very potent street slayer. Most the time they never see you coming
BTW When you do the trans fluid, just drain & fill, no flush.
05-24-2015, 01:34 PM
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^Sounds like you've got all the bases covered. Rear main seal will get worse, especially once the boost goes up��.
No experience with Cali, but think there are plenty of guys with LTH there. A race cat won't fly? I know it isn't strictly legal, but around here they pass. Replacing the primary cats will def yield the best power.
Shorties just don't produce the power and sound. I have shorties with stock cat back, very minor performance gain.
If you can make LTH's work, you won't need much more than a SC pulley and cooling to have a very potent street slayer. Most the time they never see you coming
BTW When you do the trans fluid, just drain & fill, no flush.
No experience with Cali, but think there are plenty of guys with LTH there. A race cat won't fly? I know it isn't strictly legal, but around here they pass. Replacing the primary cats will def yield the best power.
Shorties just don't produce the power and sound. I have shorties with stock cat back, very minor performance gain.
If you can make LTH's work, you won't need much more than a SC pulley and cooling to have a very potent street slayer. Most the time they never see you coming
BTW When you do the trans fluid, just drain & fill, no flush.
I'm willing to bet in order to pass smog I will have no choice but to go with shortys. When you say minor performance gain... would I at least get 20-30hp out of them?? I was thinking about the PLM ones since they are bolt on and don't think cat removal is necessary with them.
I think it was just a drain and fill, no flush. Was that wrong??
05-24-2015, 05:05 PM
#21
I am assuming you are up to date on maintenance and have throughly inspected the engine and trans for oil leaks at the troublesome gaskets and seals. Mercedes was VERY optimistic (and unrealistic) when suggesting maintenance intervals. Your car should have had the fuel pumps, plugs, brake fluid, diff fluid, trans fluid & filter, SC oil and belts swapped out already.
Hopefully you have records to support.
Also buy a spare CPS sensor and put it I the glove box.
What are your goals? Street, strip, DYNO queen, stop light king????
Here is a guideline I have come up with from the last 6 years of modding these cars. While mine is not set up exactly like this, in hindsight this is what I would have done.
After maintenance:
LSD
Data logging
Spilt cooling/upgraded HE (best to try and keep the stock HE in line if you can fit both)
SC pulley
Headers...don't monkey around, the MBH with race cat and xpipe is the best set up for performance and sound. They are worth the extra money
Belt wrap kit with all replacement idlers
DYNO tune
Beyond that you will need more cooling.
I prefer water/meth injection as opposed to a trunk tank. Tanks typically need ice to get the desired results. The injection will keep IATS in check 24/7 and you can use the WW tank for a source. Not for power, just for cooling the charge.
Then 82mm TB
Crank pulley
I have a 178mm Renntech CP. On the highway, running from 60-130, my car runs like a taped ape. A dragon slayer...lol. Around town, the extra weight of the big pulley does reduce torque off the start...boost has a more gradual engagement then the smaller and lighter CP. Add in the fact that a SC pulley is much lighter and easier to install and you see why I suggest it first.
Good luck, and remember the most important thing about our cars...RUN EM HARD!
Hopefully you have records to support.
Also buy a spare CPS sensor and put it I the glove box.
What are your goals? Street, strip, DYNO queen, stop light king????
Here is a guideline I have come up with from the last 6 years of modding these cars. While mine is not set up exactly like this, in hindsight this is what I would have done.
After maintenance:
LSD
Data logging
Spilt cooling/upgraded HE (best to try and keep the stock HE in line if you can fit both)
SC pulley
Headers...don't monkey around, the MBH with race cat and xpipe is the best set up for performance and sound. They are worth the extra money
Belt wrap kit with all replacement idlers
DYNO tune
Beyond that you will need more cooling.
I prefer water/meth injection as opposed to a trunk tank. Tanks typically need ice to get the desired results. The injection will keep IATS in check 24/7 and you can use the WW tank for a source. Not for power, just for cooling the charge.
Then 82mm TB
Crank pulley
I have a 178mm Renntech CP. On the highway, running from 60-130, my car runs like a taped ape. A dragon slayer...lol. Around town, the extra weight of the big pulley does reduce torque off the start...boost has a more gradual engagement then the smaller and lighter CP. Add in the fact that a SC pulley is much lighter and easier to install and you see why I suggest it first.
Good luck, and remember the most important thing about our cars...RUN EM HARD!
What supercharger pulley do you recommend? Brand and size please!!!
05-25-2015, 12:26 PM
#22
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Cls55
I'am curious on how the new smog laws in California are gonna affect tunes on our vehicles, I'd love to do longtubes and up the boost , but the with them reading the vin in the PCM,checking the monitors to see if they clear is what has me concerned.
05-25-2015, 02:19 PM
#23
MBWorld Fanatic!
California sucks! Unfortunately race cats won't pass. I went through hell and back trying to find cats that were Cali legal. Mercedes wanted like 4k! Luckily I found ONE company that sells CA legal cats which was called Walker. Heard their cats were good stuff but don't know enough to be sure.
I'm willing to bet in order to pass smog I will have no choice but to go with shortys. When you say minor performance gain... would I at least get 20-30hp out of them?? I was thinking about the PLM ones since they are bolt on and don't think cat removal is necessary with them.
I think it was just a drain and fill, no flush. Was that wrong??
I'm willing to bet in order to pass smog I will have no choice but to go with shortys. When you say minor performance gain... would I at least get 20-30hp out of them?? I was thinking about the PLM ones since they are bolt on and don't think cat removal is necessary with them.
I think it was just a drain and fill, no flush. Was that wrong??
small sc clutched pulley / tune / air filters / IC pump / HE done
05-25-2015, 04:08 PM
#24
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Thanks for all the suggestions guys.
I'm really on the fence about Headers. Is it even worth spending all that money for shortys? Since I'm in Cali?
It looks like I'm leaning toward SC clutched pulley, 168 or 172 CP, tune, IC Pump, and HE....
With that setup, are shortys a must? Is IC pump and PLM HE enough cooling? (I will not be going to any tracks, just going to floor it here or there to show off the power)
I'm really on the fence about Headers. Is it even worth spending all that money for shortys? Since I'm in Cali?
It looks like I'm leaning toward SC clutched pulley, 168 or 172 CP, tune, IC Pump, and HE....
With that setup, are shortys a must? Is IC pump and PLM HE enough cooling? (I will not be going to any tracks, just going to floor it here or there to show off the power)
