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eBay OBX/fab-tech long tube headers and engine mounts thread
Hey guys I finally got my eBay long tubes in yesterday and I mentioned previously that I would do a write up on the process so this thread will catalogue that as well as replacing my engine mounts. Unfortunately today I encountered code p0730 and my transmission went into limp mode so I now have another rather large issue to deal with so my progress on this thread may be slower than I would have hoped for but I'll be sure to keep it updated.
As for the headers, they are OBX long tubes typically seen on eBay. I chose to buy my set from fab-tech as he was willing to work with me a little more on the price after a little persuasion than the eBay sellers. Though they are listed on fab-techs site as a house brand they stamped with the OBX logo. Obviously there are better quality options out there but for my needs and what I was looking to spend these for the bill.
I purchased Corteco engine mounts a week or so ago and they arrived and were the wrong ones so they will be going back. I just got off the phone with the local parts store in town and they have Bilstein engine mounts in stock so I'll give those a shot (I haven't searched yet if anyone else has had success with these yet) but I'm optomistic.
As for the headers, all I can say for now is they look nice.
Are you going to use band clamps, or weld them together?
If you use the band clamps, I highly suggest investing in better quality clamps and torquing the $#!@ out of them. I had some loud exhaust leaks that I fixed by properly welding the exhaust together.
Are you going catless, or keeping your secondaries?
Joe, I haven't decided what I'm going to do yet. My plan is to install the headers with some exhaust putty and the supplied clamps first and see how that turns out. Also that should give me a chance to decide if I can live with the noise of going catless. After that if there's leaks or its too loud I'll weld it together or weld in the factory secondaries.
Joe, I haven't decided what I'm going to do yet. My plan is to install the headers with some exhaust putty and the supplied clamps first and see how that turns out. Also that should give me a chance to decide if I can live with the noise of going catless. After that if there's leaks or its too loud I'll weld it together or weld in the factory secondaries.
Thank you! Just an FYI, lots of decent band clamps available but I've had good luck with the Dynomax stainless. They get tight and last even after some removal and re-installment.
Subscribed: good luck with the install--hopefully it is straight forward and no modification to the headers needed. Do you plan to do a pre and post dyno run to see what these actually yield in gains?
Hulk thanks for the heads up, those cats are super cheap!
I barely have any free time at the moment so I haven't made any progress on the install but I snapped a few close ups for you guys. And also I won't be doing any dyno runs with the car unfortunately, just don't have the time and not too worried about the results. One day I'll get it on one but that'll wait till I decide to get the tune perfected.
As for the headers, the welds aren't perfect and I'd like it if they were welded on the inside of the flange but again, for the price, not bad. What do you guys think
I would have them ceramic coated. Stainless has a tendency to crack when it heat cycles over time and given the condition of those welds I would say they are going to crack sooner than later. The ceramic/jethot will help with you under hood heat and will make the headers last longer.
Quick update as I got some time to work on the car today.
1st thing, to address the question about fab-tech. I had read some less than stellar things about fab-tech but decided to go with them after they agreed to match the best eBay price on the headers and then beat the shipping charges by half. I also assumed that because fab-tech had a name to protect that I would have some recourse if the headers were complete ****. So they get points for being price competitive but that's where it ends. I was on a time crunch in needing the headers because I knew if I didn't have them by a certain date the project would get put off for a long time (as it has). As soon as fab-tech had my money they informed me that the item was not in stock and they would have to get it shipped to them before sending it to me 😡. So I ended up getting them way later than planned and my project was delayed significantly. That said, I don't know if I had a chance to do it again if I would have gone with an eBay seller or not.
2nd: I finally got around to removing the factory exhaust and manifolds tonight and was amazed at how easy it was. I have a cold at the moment and still had no problem getting it done. The hardest bolt being the lower front manifold bolt on the passenger side right above the alternator. There's hardly any room but after making myself comfortable under the car and settling in for the long haul of half turns and bending the head of my 10mm wrench I got it off. Persistency is key lol.
Next is to remove the engine mounts and replace with the Lemforder mounts I picked up from AndreNY (Great prices on oem parts if anyone needs anything). Once those are on I'll start the install of the long tubes and start taking some pics.
Got some time to work on her again today and made good progress. The headers are installed and the new engine mounts are in.
Engine mounts were super easy once the factory manifolds were out and with the help of the special Mercedes tool though it wasn't necessary.
The headers were harder on the drivers side and two of the lower bolts were more trouble than I want to talk about but I have pics of the lack of clearance to get at the nuts to tighten them down. A flexible drill bit extension was a very useful tool for anyone in the future, it saved me a ton of time.
The main issue I noticed when I went to fit up the rest of the exhaust was how far back the holes are for the secondary o2 sensors. I don't really want to run o2 extenders so I'll probably end up cutting and extending the factory harness for those two. The primary o2s fit fine.
At least a 3ft gap from the secondary o2 plugs to the flanges.
Hardly any room to get a wrench in there and had to make at ton of quarter turns or less to finally get it tight.
You are not running cats, so just disable the rear sensors using Star, then ziptie the secondary cats up and away (they still need to be connected, even if disabled).
You can later put dual wideband sensors into the secondary O2 bungs.
Have you had a chance to take it out & drive? Is this just the long tube headers? I noticed they've got a kit with an xpipe on eBay
Originally Posted by JoeNobody
You are not running cats, so just disable the rear sensors using Star, then ziptie the secondary cats up and away (they still need to be connected, even if disabled).
You can later put dual wideband sensors into the secondary O2 bungs.
You will need new header bolts and studs (unless you want to reuse the existing ones, which is not the best). You should also buy better band clamps (the ones included are only mediocre), and also use exhaust sealant/putty on the pipe ends that slip together. This is because it's slip fit connections which can be leaky.
You'll also need to extend the secondary O2 sensors. Although since the cats included will NOT be enough to satisfy the ECU, you'll get under efficiency fault codes unless you add O2 fowlers or disable the rear O2's entirely.
I'm having a hard time finding a legitimate "list" of components needs:
1. Headers
2. Good exhaust clamps(how many?)
3. Exhaust putty
4. A way to code out the secondary 02's( does the system come with a bung to close those holes?
5. Gasket for the header to block? If so, oem mb? Do you have a part number?
6. Gasket from xpipe to rest of system? If so, part number? Or does it need to be welded together?
7. New header bolts/studs(and copper nuts from what I'm reading?)
Sorry for the questions..I just can't seem to find any definitive answers. After I order I'm going to make a thread including all this.
Originally Posted by JoeNobody
Yes that's the correct item.
You will need new header bolts and studs (unless you want to reuse the existing ones, which is not the best). You should also buy better band clamps (the ones included are only mediocre), and also use exhaust sealant/putty on the pipe ends that slip together. This is because it's slip fit connections which can be leaky.
You'll also need to extend the secondary O2 sensors. Although since the cats included will NOT be enough to satisfy the ECU, you'll get under efficiency fault codes unless you add O2 fowlers or disable the rear O2's entirely.
02-10-2016, 03:56 PM
with so my progress on this thread may be slower than I would have hoped for but I'll be sure to keep it updated. 
