Airmatic suspension help
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2005 e55 amg, 2005 audi s4, 2000 audi a4 1.8T (big turbo)
Airmatic suspension help
Ok ill cut the story short, rear driver side began to sagg ,visit workshop came on , car is now hellaflush because its been sitting, i checked rear air spring its good, strut is good, compressor pump works when fed 12v but not under nomal use in the car, fuse is good ,relay seems ok but order new one just in case, bottom line compressor wont engaged when its told to.. any suggestions?
#5
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Ok ill cut the story short, rear driver side began to sagg ,visit workshop came on , car is now hellaflush because its been sitting, i checked rear air spring its good, strut is good, compressor pump works when fed 12v but not under nomal use in the car, fuse is good ,relay seems ok but order new one just in case, bottom line compressor wont engaged when its told to.. any suggestions?
The suggestion is to get a rear Arnott airmatic. its 400 bucks. When you put the arnotts in, it renders the entire stock rear airmatic system obsolete because the arnott is a self contained air unit. I in fact, removed all of the stock hoses tanks etc so the now unused parts were not bolted to the car for no reason.
your problem is thus solved with removing 2 bolts, 1 nut, 1 air hose and 1 plug and an hours or less work.. and no chasing what may be the culprit out of several possibilities.
#6
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Or you can skip the constant merry-go-round of old air suspension part failures by changing the whole system to non-air coilover kits by Arnott or Strutmasters. $1,400 to $1,650 total (depending on vendor) plus installation. I have Strutmasters on mine and don't worry about waking up to a slammed car anymore. I made this decision after constant repairs to a Lincoln Navigator air system forced me into coilovers on that vehicle, and the ride was fine. Still is on the E55.
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2005 e55 amg, 2005 audi s4, 2000 audi a4 1.8T (big turbo)
It would NOT be the level sensor if indeed its just one side sagging.. the level sensor affects both sides equally and is based on weight in the car then manually adjusts.
The suggestion is to get a rear Arnott airmatic. its 400 bucks. When you put the arnotts in, it renders the entire stock rear airmatic system obsolete because the arnott is a self contained air unit. I in fact, removed all of the stock hoses tanks etc so the now unused parts were not bolted to the car for no reason.
your problem is thus solved with removing 2 bolts, 1 nut, 1 air hose and 1 plug and an hours or less work.. and no chasing what may be the culprit out of several possibilities.
The suggestion is to get a rear Arnott airmatic. its 400 bucks. When you put the arnotts in, it renders the entire stock rear airmatic system obsolete because the arnott is a self contained air unit. I in fact, removed all of the stock hoses tanks etc so the now unused parts were not bolted to the car for no reason.
your problem is thus solved with removing 2 bolts, 1 nut, 1 air hose and 1 plug and an hours or less work.. and no chasing what may be the culprit out of several possibilities.
Ok im might just do that then if i cant figure it out by today ama just order the pair.
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#8
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Good luck !
#10
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Now remove the lower airmatic bellow bolt/nut(also 21MM I believe)..carefully snip any zip ties holding current airline/electrical connector to unit...where the unit meets the car at the top..use a flat screwdriver and pry it down, it will pop off the single center plastic clip ( you get a new one in the new box).
Put some downward pressure on the rotor and you can manipulate the lower part of the bellow out from the control arm....when you do, now is the time to puncture the black fabric like 1" round airline..i just used a drill but... it will release all the air... cut the hose off and you can also remove the stainless tank( 3 bolts)
use needle nose to unscrew the tiny air tube from the unit.. use same needle nose the pinch and pull electrical connection.....remove unit completely now...keep in mind the suspension is now raised up a bit..
now pull of old plastic clip from nub on car where new bellow will fit at the top and push the new clip on.. connect the electrical and the air line (air line is easier now).. I did not replace the brass connection , no need, but i did use the new rubber o ring from the new fitting and replaced the old one.
lean the top of the new bellow into the new clip and push up....you need to put a good amount of downward pressure now on the rotor and slide the bottom of the new unit in place and pin it with the original bolt.. now put strut back in.. again, need to put some pressure on the rotor.. can take a bit to do. get everything bolted back up.. when you put the nut back on the strut top..you need to hold the flat part at the top with a crescent wrench, and tighten with an open end..or ratcheting box wrench.
now do the other side... when done...reconnect battery and wait a bit to hear any air/bells/whistles etc since air has to start pumping in......carefully lower car to add pressure to units but dont drop the jack all the way...drop slowly.. start the car .... keep slowly dropping car..you should notice it will be able to drop to a normal spot in a short time..then remove jack......
hope this turns out to be uselful for you. feel free to ping me if you have a particular road block...
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2005 e55 amg, 2005 audi s4, 2000 audi a4 1.8T (big turbo)
disconnect battery.... remove all of the side trunk lining.... Jack up car center rear..remove the single nut for strut top each strut in the trunk each side 17 mm i believe. this will drop the suspension a bit. now under car, remove the single #10 hex bolt/nut from control arm so it floats free....remove lower strut bolt/nut (21mm I believe.) you can now move strut out of the way.. i left it connected and just rested upside down against the rotor.
Now remove the lower airmatic bellow bolt/nut(also 21MM I believe)..carefully snip any zip ties holding current airline/electrical connector to unit...where the unit meets the car at the top..use a flat screwdriver and pry it down, it will pop off the single center plastic clip ( you get a new one in the new box).
Put some downward pressure on the rotor and you can manipulate the lower part of the bellow out from the control arm....when you do, now is the time to puncture the black fabric like 1" round airline..i just used a drill but... it will release all the air... cut the hose off and you can also remove the stainless tank( 3 bolts)
use needle nose to unscrew the tiny air tube from the unit.. use same needle nose the pinch and pull electrical connection.....remove unit completely now...keep in mind the suspension is now raised up a bit..
now pull of old plastic clip from nub on car where new bellow will fit at the top and push the new clip on.. connect the electrical and the air line (air line is easier now).. I did not replace the brass connection , no need, but i did use the new rubber o ring from the new fitting and replaced the old one.
lean the top of the new bellow into the new clip and push up....you need to put a good amount of downward pressure now on the rotor and slide the bottom of the new unit in place and pin it with the original bolt.. now put strut back in.. again, need to put some pressure on the rotor.. can take a bit to do. get everything bolted back up.. when you put the nut back on the strut top..you need to hold the flat part at the top with a crescent wrench, and tighten with an open end..or ratcheting box wrench.
now do the other side... when done...reconnect battery and wait a bit to hear any air/bells/whistles etc since air has to start pumping in......carefully lower car to add pressure to units but dont drop the jack all the way...drop slowly.. start the car .... keep slowly dropping car..you should notice it will be able to drop to a normal spot in a short time..then remove jack......
hope this turns out to be uselful for you. feel free to ping me if you have a particular road block...
Now remove the lower airmatic bellow bolt/nut(also 21MM I believe)..carefully snip any zip ties holding current airline/electrical connector to unit...where the unit meets the car at the top..use a flat screwdriver and pry it down, it will pop off the single center plastic clip ( you get a new one in the new box).
Put some downward pressure on the rotor and you can manipulate the lower part of the bellow out from the control arm....when you do, now is the time to puncture the black fabric like 1" round airline..i just used a drill but... it will release all the air... cut the hose off and you can also remove the stainless tank( 3 bolts)
use needle nose to unscrew the tiny air tube from the unit.. use same needle nose the pinch and pull electrical connection.....remove unit completely now...keep in mind the suspension is now raised up a bit..
now pull of old plastic clip from nub on car where new bellow will fit at the top and push the new clip on.. connect the electrical and the air line (air line is easier now).. I did not replace the brass connection , no need, but i did use the new rubber o ring from the new fitting and replaced the old one.
lean the top of the new bellow into the new clip and push up....you need to put a good amount of downward pressure now on the rotor and slide the bottom of the new unit in place and pin it with the original bolt.. now put strut back in.. again, need to put some pressure on the rotor.. can take a bit to do. get everything bolted back up.. when you put the nut back on the strut top..you need to hold the flat part at the top with a crescent wrench, and tighten with an open end..or ratcheting box wrench.
now do the other side... when done...reconnect battery and wait a bit to hear any air/bells/whistles etc since air has to start pumping in......carefully lower car to add pressure to units but dont drop the jack all the way...drop slowly.. start the car .... keep slowly dropping car..you should notice it will be able to drop to a normal spot in a short time..then remove jack......
hope this turns out to be uselful for you. feel free to ping me if you have a particular road block...
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2005 e55 amg, 2005 audi s4, 2000 audi a4 1.8T (big turbo)
Update
Ok so i scan and this is what i got i clear the codes waited restarted re scan and only those 2 come up, see if anyone can shine some light be great.
#13
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in the OP you stated the rear was sagging.. hence the rear replacement writeup... that pic is showing a front sensor failure
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Update 2
Ok so the sensor fix the saggy rear but now my passenger rear is super high and wont come down so yea.. any ideas ? No dtc codes so far clear them , unplug battery etc nothing, also f037 fuse was blown when we put the new sensor, replace the fuse dint blew again.
#17
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I'm not the guy who can help, but to recap you replaced both rear springs with Arnotts and the sensor also? Then when you lowered the jack the right rear did not level as it should but the left rear did. So there is a single rear sensor so how do you get different heights in the rear?
How about disconnect battery, jack it up, release the air pressure, then follow Atk_Gamings directions (again?) for the end of the install? Recheck installation of sensor while your in there. Good luck
How about disconnect battery, jack it up, release the air pressure, then follow Atk_Gamings directions (again?) for the end of the install? Recheck installation of sensor while your in there. Good luck
#18
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There is so little flex in the body that if one corner is low, the opposite corner will be high. Check the front sensor. I even out the rear height on my car from the front. You can't have two high corners on opposite sides unless the body is twisted.
#19
You replaced the sensor which requires a ride height calibration with star, a drive on rack, and romess gauge (inclination sensor). Take it to the dealer for a ride height calibration by someone that knows what they are doing.
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2005 e55 amg, 2005 audi s4, 2000 audi a4 1.8T (big turbo)
No bags are still oem , i only replaced the front sensor because it was bad no readings from it, ok so after that the car began to lift again as normal then the passenger rear began to go higher, all other tires are normal as they should, now i can fit 3 fingers in all 3 corners except that one side i can fit 4 fingers and a extra pinkie.
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2005 e55 amg, 2005 audi s4, 2000 audi a4 1.8T (big turbo)
Ok so forget all the questions im just done seeking info, most old post i found dint have thier solution shared or posted.
I tared it dowm and now ama find the issue , so far i release the air now the car is sitting right so lets go from there, want something done right do it yourself.
I tared it dowm and now ama find the issue , so far i release the air now the car is sitting right so lets go from there, want something done right do it yourself.
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#25
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In for results!
Does anyone know if front has 2 level sensors? What could it be if both fronts sag over night, not slammed just sag. And there is a airmatic malfunction light on dash arrow up.
Does anyone know if front has 2 level sensors? What could it be if both fronts sag over night, not slammed just sag. And there is a airmatic malfunction light on dash arrow up.