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Hey MB Team.
This is my first post and its a nasty one (unfortunately).
Here is the break down, I was driving home when I got a 'low fluid level" indication. Didn't think to much of it and continued driving, 2 miles down I noticed the heater stooped working and felt the car misfiring. Drove home (3 miles). After getting home I opened the antifreeze reservoir to discover that I'm empty and the engine was running dry. I also ran a OBD2 scan and found that cylinder 8 was misfiring. I bought antifreeze (2 gal) and filled it back up. After running it for about 5 min I noticed that the coolant doped again. At this point I checked the oil dip stick to find that its way above its normal level and the color is not black but brown. Jumped on to the forum to find a couple of posts that pretty much tell me I am F***ed.
It would would be smooth sailing if I had warranty on the car but with 55k miles and no warranty pretty much screwed.
Now I just want to know what this would cost me and what repairs I would need to make.
Head Gasket Job and Head Bolt replacement is needs
I had the same issue with my W219 CLS63 AMG 2007, but this happened after hard pulls. Once I removed heads I saw the one head bolt was broken.
I guess you need to do Head Gasket Job and Head Bolt replacement, as well as flushing your engine with fresh oil 2 to 3 times to clean the water residue inside the engine.
Sorry to hear about your problem. Don't drive anymore, it could get worse, like a bent rod etc.. I thought the 09s were made after an upgrade of the head bolts, not true? Also are you the original owner? Type of use? Do you track the car? What sort of climate do you live in, cold weather now? Thanks for your post, good luck with the repair.
Sorry to hear about your problem. Don't drive anymore, it could get worse, like a bent rod etc.. I thought the 09s were made after an upgrade of the head bolts, not true? Also are you the original owner? Type of use? Do you track the car? What sort of climate do you live in, cold weather now? Thanks for your post, good luck with the repair.
The problem goes up to early 2011, I believe. Dchl21 is correct; tons of info in W204 forum. Consensus is that if you don't plan on DIY'ing, find a good indy. I've read that typical costs run $3-$5k at indies, if there is no other damage, like Dublinoh notes. Updating the buckets and replacing cams, if necessary, drives costs higher. Stealer is higher and credits from MB aren't likely unless you've done a lot of business (service-wise) with them. I was lucky and was under warranty when I had them done as preventative maintenance (I think I smell coolant........).
Unfortunately, you have been a victim of the dreaded headbolt issue. Not every car gets it, regardless of what people say ("not a matter of if, but when"), but it is well documented and you've been struck. Good luck, but remember, don't drive it at all until its repaired. Check out the W204 forum, but search first before asking questions over there. You also may be able to get a referral to an indy who has experience with this issue.
^this. Sorry for the incident OP, I hope it isn't too expensive to fix. Getting the headbolts replaced as preventative maintenance would be the way to go given that this issue is well documented for all M156 engines up to early 2011.
I'd love to do C63 Black Series engine swap in mine...
The problem goes up to early 2011, I believe. Dchl21 is correct; tons of info in W204 forum. Consensus is that if you don't plan on DIY'ing, find a good indy. I've read that typical costs run $3-$5k at indies, if there is no other damage, like Dublinoh notes. Updating the buckets and replacing cams, if necessary, drives costs higher. Stealer is higher and credits from MB aren't likely unless you've done a lot of business (service-wise) with them. I was lucky and was under warranty when I had them done as preventative maintenance (I think I smell coolant........).
Unfortunately, you have been a victim of the dreaded headbolt issue. Not every car gets it, regardless of what people say ("not a matter of if, but when"), but it is well documented and you've been struck. Good luck, but remember, don't drive it at all until its repaired. Check out the W204 forum, but search first before asking questions over there. You also may be able to get a referral to an indy who has experience with this issue.
I for one would start with the operating temperature of the engine during all of these symptoms.
Bear in-mind that the ECT (coolant temp) relies on fluid being in the engine to provide a signal to your dashboard indicator. No fluid = Faulty readout.
While I've not had this problem with an M156, I can tell you from past experience that you may have easily overheated this engine, possibly even warping the head(s).
It wasn't clear from your description as to whether you dropped a valve seat (which would indicate a great deal of engine heat), but I would seriously weigh the costs of repair versus replacement.
I for one would start with the operating temperature of the engine during all of these symptoms.
Bear in-mind that the ECT (coolant temp) relies on fluid being in the engine to provide a signal to your dashboard indicator. No fluid = Faulty readout.
While I've not had this problem with an M156, I can tell you from past experience that you may have easily overheated this engine, possibly even warping the head(s).
It wasn't clear from your description as to whether you dropped a valve seat (which would indicate a great deal of engine heat), but I would seriously weigh the costs of repair versus replacement.
Thank you for the engine find but I am hoping that I will fix it before replacing it. I never saw the engine go up in heat. It stayed at 80-90C most of the time.
You are probably ok as far as overheating goes. The most important thing is to check for a bent rod which is very common with this issue. Before doing any teardown I would drain the oil to the proper level and perform a compression test to get an idea if one of the rods bent. Once the heads are off make sure they measure deck height before reassembly.
No Crazy updates. I towed it to a local Mercedes certified shop. They quoted me 3-5K depending on the damage and work. (The best price I found). Still didn't hear back from them.
Not really sure what you mean by "who built your engine".
he is referring to the name placard on your engine from AMG. honestly name doesn't mean anything as all tools used for build are calibrated to spec, meaning failures are not specific to any one builder.
I would rather rebuild an engine where feasible as opposed to buying a second hand one with any number of potential problems. You would be pretty unlucky to hydrolock but it does occasionally happen when the heads lift. The redesigned oem bolts are more than enough unless you are going forced induction.
dealerships in my experience don't rebuild engines...mercedes might be different though.
they swap short blocks, long blocks, replace individual cylinders with issues, etc but don't do full rebuilds. the labor cost is too high from their perspective.
like they'll literally change bearings for the problem cylinder and not touch anything else.
So the car is in the shop. I get a call from the manager telling me that the job is a lot harder then they expected. He was able to remove 8 head bolts from one side and 6 from the other. 2 head bolts have broken heads and are stuck. He said he is unable to remove the Actual head because there is not enough room. He will have to drop the engine to remove the head. I know the price will change now.
I came to the shop to find my Engine on the floor. (Almost Cried)
W211 E63 Engine Dissembled
You Could see the stuck head bolt on the right side.
W211 E63 engine torn apart. Head Bolt stuck
Ill Keep udating you guys as it gets more expensive.
01-04-2017, 02:54 AM
W211 E63 AMG head bolt damage
** Update **
