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I see on most of the other MB motors they are able to use a 91.5" belt to bypass the A/C compressor. It's too short to use on our cars and I don't really want to make a wild guess if someone knows for sure which belt works.
I either have a loud PS pump or AC compressor and I need to isolate the problem so I can fix it.
I have one, I probed around and I can isolate the area but not the component. I think a belt from a 2003ish suburban will work, thankfully I have one of those too so I'll give that a shot and report back.
Compare to the E55 engine. If all of the components are in the same locations and appear to match then you are probably ok, M113 engines didn't vary much in basic layout. Otherwise take the belt off and measure the length around all the pulleys you want to include using string.
Hi All! resurrecting an old thread - I want to bypass my AC compressor pulley until i have some more downtime to sort out the problems with it. I gather the 6 rib 930 length belt mentioned above is good for my m113k engine (2003 SL55) in order to do this. Does the belt rub against the ac pulley in this rerouted configuration?? If so is it a problem? The red line i've added is indeed the route to take, correct? THANKS!!!
Thanks for the replies. I attempted to remove the pulley but the compressor shaft end is an odd size, like a rectangle. I was under the impression a 7mm socket would fit over it but it doesn’t, neither does an 8, and a 9 is too big. I attempted to use a small hammer to force an 8mm on but I’m afraid I just stripped the end - and really didn’t get closer to getting the pulley off.
If I can’t get it off tomorrow I’ll route the cheater belt on with the pulley still there. I was really hoping to get the pulley off and attempt just a pulley replacement, not a whole compressor
The part that took me the most time was the clip for the pulley (under the cover). I worked solely from up top, I didn't go under the car. I damaged the old pulley (its plastic) when I used a puller to get it off, but thats no biggie.
The part that took me the most time was the clip for the pulley (under the cover). I worked solely from up top, I didn't go under the car. I damaged the old pulley (its plastic) when I used a puller to get it off, but thats no biggie.
Thanks for the reply. I do have the black three pronged removal tool but not the socket you show - it looks just like a normal 7mm socket, no? My 7mm sockets won’t fit.
Yes it does. I worked on it today, because I found out that I tightened it way too much. So I needed to remove the big retaining clip and loosen the top cover. After fighting with it and scraping my knuckle, you only need to hand tighten the top cover. It will tighten itself according to the WIS procedure.
Yes it does. I worked on it today, because I found out that I tightened it way too much. So I needed to remove the big retaining clip and loosen the top cover. After fighting with it and scraping my knuckle, you only need to hand tighten the top cover. It will tighten itself according to the WIS procedure.
Glad it worked out for you. My attempts at this have lead me to nothing but more frustration. Was not able to get anything to grab that end shaft to loosen it, so I'm not able to remove the pulley. I attempted to install the “cheater” shorter belt bypassing the compressor (belt 930K6) and no matter how I attempt it it’s just too short. I would imagine all m113k engines would utilize the same belt for this - and I think someone above said it works. I guess I need to find a slightly longer one. If I could get one on and get it running I might take it to get the compressor replaced at a shop…. Or just let the car sit til I can find time to put it on stands and replace the compressor myself, which I heard is a real biotch. 🤬
The only way to get it off without this tool would be an impact gun (in combination with the 3 prong thingy), but then you need to remove either the AC compressor or the cooling pack (radiator+condensor)
The only way to get it off without this tool would be an impact gun (in combination with the 3 prong thingy), but then you need to remove either the AC compressor or the cooling pack (radiator+condensor)
Okay, i feel less crazy now - apparently there is a special wrench socket the WIS identifies for this - it's 112-589-02-09-00.
02-16-2017, 09:05 PM
