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Today I installed H&R lowering springs (PN 29076-9) on my 2014 CLS 63 S. Since there wasn't much installation notes out there, I figured I'd type them up. This should work for a W212 as well.
Overall it's pretty straight forward, and takes about two hours per side (if you compress the springs by hand, this easily takes and hour per side).
Main tools:
Spring compressor tool (I rented one from autozone)
21mm Deep Socket
10m socket
18mm open wrench
T30 Torx wrench (I think, may be a T40)
E18 Torx Socket
E12 Torx Socket
E10 Torx Socket
Two socket wrenches and long extensions.
First loosen the main 21mm lock-nut on the tops of the strut. This nut keeps the top plate on and tension on the spring, so don't over loosen. A few full turns is fine. You can remove later, but it's hard to get the leverage when the strut is out.<br/>
Disconnect the ABS sensor and (on passenger side) brake sensor wires from their associated brackets. The sensors are attached with a 10mm and E10 bolts. Push the wires out of the way. Also disconnect the brake line fron the strut bracket. <br/>
Disconnect the stabilizer bar. It has a ball joint that spins freely. Use the 18mm wrench and the T30 (I think) wrench in unison to remove / re-install the nut. Push the bar out of the way. I re-used the nut with lock-tight when re-installing.<br/><br/>
The strut is attached to the wheel knuckle with two E18 bolts with 21 mm locknuts on them. I re-used the nuts with lock-tight when re-installing.<br/>
E18 Bolts
Use two socket wrenches with the 21mm deep socket and E18 socket. Extensions are needed. I needed a breaker bar to free the nuts.<br/><br/>
Bottom of the strut is free. Now remove the top 3 E12 bolts. The strut comes out very easily at that point. I held it from underneath while removing the last bolt from the top. <br/>
Strut removed...<br/>
Compress the springs... the bottom plate makes these type of spring compressors hard to use, but it worked. It scraped the edge of the plate a bit down through the paint (I filed them down and quickly painted them with rustoleum). When the spring is compressed like you see in the pic, fully remove the top 21mm nut. It should come off easily since you broke it free in step one. Always point the top of the plate away from any person or objects that you care about, just in case there is any tension left in the spring (there wasn't with the compression you see here). <br/><br/>
Slide everything off... here's the strut with the bearing, top plate, and dust shield removed.<br/>
Strut bearing (there's no upper control arm, the strut connects to the top of the knuckle and rotates when steering).<br/>
H&R spring (left) compared to stock spring.<br/>
Compress the new spring (a lot), and add grease to the top of the dust shield, and inside of the bearing. I had an annoying steering noise issue caused by these rubbing...<br/>
Grease the rubber contacts on the bearing...<br/>
Make sure the spring seats against the stop-tab. I hammered the compressor tool to twist the spring.<br/>
All together. Everything goes in the way it came out. I used lock-tight everywhere is was used originally (almost every bolt, but not the top 21mm bolt on the strut).<br/>
Thanks. I used adjustable lowering links from eBay for the rear. They were fairly easy to install and adjust (you can easily pop them on/off with the car jacked and the wheels on). It took 4-5 tries to get it right.
How is the ride quality and how close were you able to get the alignment? These cars eat up the inside tread bad enough at stock height!
Overall it's similar to stock. It's stiffer, but I found the stock suspension quite stiff, so this doesn't feel much different. It's comfortable / livable but firmer. The alignment is spot on. Much better than my lowered E55.
'03 E55, Range Rover Sport Supercharged, Ducati 748R
Originally Posted by moehler
Overall it's similar to stock. It's stiffer, but I found the stock suspension quite stiff, so this doesn't feel much different. It's comfortable / livable but firmer. The alignment is spot on. Much better than my lowered E55.
I could never get my E55 to quit eating tires and I tried every adjustable arm and bushings available. I've been putting off lowering my W212 for this reason. Btw, my E55's alignment was supposedly within spec too!
I see a front axle, 4-Matic? Wondering if all hardware and setup is the same on a earlier RWD W212 E63. I am looking to put my H&R springs in my 10 E63 this weekend.
I see a front axle, 4-Matic? Wondering if all hardware and setup is the same on a earlier RWD W212 E63. I am looking to put my H&R springs in my 10 E63 this weekend.
That's a good question, I'm not sure how the awd and non-awd suspension geometry differ. It would be good if you can post any differences that you find.
That's a good question, I'm not sure how the awd and non-awd suspension geometry differ. It would be good if you can post any differences that you find.
Definitely will do, hopefully will have lift access next weekend to do so.
Just picked up a 2012 PCE and absolutely love the car. I also lowered it via Evoklass coilover.
It is slight different from RWD vs AWD. Everything is the same except the struts are mounted to the back of he calipers and one big *** bolt holding the upper calipers to the struts. Ride quality is exactly the same but now with adjustability.
Nicely done. Car looks great.
I did the same on my 2012 CLS and had no issues. I also had 20 inch wheels all arounf.
My KW springs are collecting dust in garage so if someone wants to make me an offer, pm me.
I also have a convenience box for sale.
01-23-2016, 08:42 PM
