DIY Oil Change for CLS63 or E63 AMG with Pictures
11-26-2007, 01:44 PM
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07 CLS63 | 06 SLK350
DIY Oil Change for CLS63 or E63 AMG with Pictures
I figured since there wasn't one with pics, I would make my own...
(This should work for the E63 as well, since the engine is the same)
I always like draining the oil from the oil pan, as I did with my Nissan 350z, so I figured I'd do the same with the cls. The only dilemma I faced was that other than the jack points under the side-skirts, there wasn't any other jack-point to raise the car hence I could not use my jack-stands like I did previously with my 350z.
Solution was rhino ramps which I bought from kragen.
Tools & Supplies:
1. 8mm socket for nuts that hold two plastic under-pieces.
2. 13mm socket for oil-drain nut.
3. gloves/ wrench for oil filter, etc.
4. got 2 5-qt jugs of Pennzoil Platinum full synthetic 5w-30 from walmart for $41 incl tax.
5. mercedes stealer - $24 oil filter.
Step 1:-
Drive the car around the block , get the temp up to at least 87-90 deg celsius. Then drive up the Rhino Ramps (very carefully)
Step 2:-
Roll under the car, and remove the two plastic pieces using the 8mm socket, about 10 nuts in total.
Step 3:-
Open hood, remove the plastic piece with the Mercedes symbol on it, then using a wrench, remove the oil filter cap, and pull out the oil filter. Also remove the oil-filler cap as well (optional)
Step 4:-
Use the 13mm socket and break loose the nut (will be very tight the first time), then slowly loosen the nut making sure you have a drain pan all set.
Warning!: Be careful here, use gloves because the oil will be hot and it will suddenly gush out ! I let her drip for half an hour or so.
Step 5:-
While she's still dripping, change the oil filter. I went ahead and cleaned the Cap of all the stale oil, scrubbed & dried her clean... Screw the filter back into its original location and tighten it with a wrench.
Step 6:-
Put the Drain nut back on (don't forget the washer), wipe everything clean.
Step 7:-
Pour in the new oil and check the oil dipstick every quart or so after 5qts to make sure you don't over-fill. I was able to get 7 qts till it reached almost max, but I put it another quart just to be safe. So i got in a total of 8 quarts.
Once you are done, go back under , check for leaks and if everything looks fine, put the two plastic pieces back on , roll off the ramps and you're good to go !
Hope this is helpful to all the rest of you DIY'ers... It was a fun experience, and I got to poke around under the car which is always fun...
(This should work for the E63 as well, since the engine is the same)
I always like draining the oil from the oil pan, as I did with my Nissan 350z, so I figured I'd do the same with the cls. The only dilemma I faced was that other than the jack points under the side-skirts, there wasn't any other jack-point to raise the car hence I could not use my jack-stands like I did previously with my 350z.
Solution was rhino ramps which I bought from kragen.
Tools & Supplies:
1. 8mm socket for nuts that hold two plastic under-pieces.
2. 13mm socket for oil-drain nut.
3. gloves/ wrench for oil filter, etc.
4. got 2 5-qt jugs of Pennzoil Platinum full synthetic 5w-30 from walmart for $41 incl tax.
5. mercedes stealer - $24 oil filter.
Step 1:-
Drive the car around the block , get the temp up to at least 87-90 deg celsius. Then drive up the Rhino Ramps (very carefully)
Step 2:-
Roll under the car, and remove the two plastic pieces using the 8mm socket, about 10 nuts in total.
Step 3:-
Open hood, remove the plastic piece with the Mercedes symbol on it, then using a wrench, remove the oil filter cap, and pull out the oil filter. Also remove the oil-filler cap as well (optional)
Step 4:-
Use the 13mm socket and break loose the nut (will be very tight the first time), then slowly loosen the nut making sure you have a drain pan all set.
Warning!: Be careful here, use gloves because the oil will be hot and it will suddenly gush out ! I let her drip for half an hour or so.Step 5:-
While she's still dripping, change the oil filter. I went ahead and cleaned the Cap of all the stale oil, scrubbed & dried her clean... Screw the filter back into its original location and tighten it with a wrench.
Step 6:-
Put the Drain nut back on (don't forget the washer), wipe everything clean.
Step 7:-
Pour in the new oil and check the oil dipstick every quart or so after 5qts to make sure you don't over-fill. I was able to get 7 qts till it reached almost max, but I put it another quart just to be safe. So i got in a total of 8 quarts.
Once you are done, go back under , check for leaks and if everything looks fine, put the two plastic pieces back on , roll off the ramps and you're good to go !
Hope this is helpful to all the rest of you DIY'ers... It was a fun experience, and I got to poke around under the car which is always fun...
Last edited by blackcls63; 11-26-2007 at 01:49 PM.
11-26-2007, 02:05 PM
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2007 E63 w/P30 and Eurotech CF Diffuser
Thank you. Particularly the information about what socket and wrench sizes I am going to need.
One piece of information for all 63 owners. Correct me if I am wrong.
The only oil approved for the 63 engine is Mobile1 0W-40 "European Formula".
I got my oil at Walmart.
I see you are using Pensoil 5W-30 Synthetic.
Also, when filling, do not over fill!!! This will lead to excessive oil consumption and can reduce HP because the crank shaft might be thrashing the oil. When full, start the engine and run for a minute, then check the oil level again.
One piece of information for all 63 owners. Correct me if I am wrong.
The only oil approved for the 63 engine is Mobile1 0W-40 "European Formula".
I got my oil at Walmart.
I see you are using Pensoil 5W-30 Synthetic.
Also, when filling, do not over fill!!! This will lead to excessive oil consumption and can reduce HP because the crank shaft might be thrashing the oil. When full, start the engine and run for a minute, then check the oil level again.
11-26-2007, 02:29 PM
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07 CLS63 | 06 SLK350
actually, if you check the additional booklet, it lists about 4-5 oils, including pennzoil, and 0w-40 is recommended for areas where outside temp is close to 20F and lower (which is rarely the case here in california)
I'm not a big fan of Mobil1, have had experience with it burning up quicker than other oils, plus in a recent study by blackstone labs, they found castrol syntec and pennzoil to have better results than mobil1
I'm not a big fan of Mobil1, have had experience with it burning up quicker than other oils, plus in a recent study by blackstone labs, they found castrol syntec and pennzoil to have better results than mobil1
Last edited by blackcls63; 11-26-2007 at 02:33 PM.
11-26-2007, 08:47 PM
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2007 E63 w/P30 and Eurotech CF Diffuser
In the "Factory Approved Service Products" booklet, don't most of the engine oils have a little asterisk by them that refers to a note on the bottom that says
"* Not Approved for AMG Engines"
The only oil for cars after 2005 without the asterisk is the Mobile1 0W-40. Are we reading the same page? These are oils meeting the MB Sheet 229.5.
Now to be honest, I do not think the oil you are using will really be problem and may in fact perform better than the Mobile1 based on your experience. But, when warrantee issues arise where the engine oil performance might have been a factor it is good to be squeeky clean.
"* Not Approved for AMG Engines"
The only oil for cars after 2005 without the asterisk is the Mobile1 0W-40. Are we reading the same page? These are oils meeting the MB Sheet 229.5.
Now to be honest, I do not think the oil you are using will really be problem and may in fact perform better than the Mobile1 based on your experience. But, when warrantee issues arise where the engine oil performance might have been a factor it is good to be squeeky clean.
11-27-2007, 12:57 AM
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07 CLS63 | 06 SLK350
Here you go, I scanned the pages since I have the booklet right here with me... clearly shows pennzoil full synthetic 5w-30 as one of the recommended oils.
Blackstone Labs is one of the only places around that actually does tests with all types of oils on a variety of car engines, you can even get a detailed report on the health of your engine by sending them a sample of the oil that you remove from your engine. THey do an in-depth analysis for 25$.
I've gotten more than a couple done on my previous cars and they are spot-on. you can read more info at http://www.blackstone-labs.com/
I myself was a blind follower of mobil1 just because 'everyone said so' and since mobil1 obviously pays mercedes a big premium to be the "Recommended" brand. Even the guy at the parts department in mercedes downtown LA told me there's nothing special about mobil1. Its nice to do your own research sometimes.
Bottom line, keep the beast happy
Blackstone Labs is one of the only places around that actually does tests with all types of oils on a variety of car engines, you can even get a detailed report on the health of your engine by sending them a sample of the oil that you remove from your engine. THey do an in-depth analysis for 25$.
I've gotten more than a couple done on my previous cars and they are spot-on. you can read more info at http://www.blackstone-labs.com/
I myself was a blind follower of mobil1 just because 'everyone said so' and since mobil1 obviously pays mercedes a big premium to be the "Recommended" brand. Even the guy at the parts department in mercedes downtown LA told me there's nothing special about mobil1. Its nice to do your own research sometimes.
Bottom line, keep the beast happy
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11-27-2007, 01:20 AM
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AWESOME, I use what my mechanic uses and it is not Mobil one...some rare German motor oil,, its uh 9 bucks per qt though.. LOL, prolly a dirty trick!
GREAT PICS and write up
THANKS
GREAT PICS and write up
THANKS
11-27-2007, 08:18 AM
#10
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This is such a helpful post!!
Hey man come watch your CLS brothers on 11/30 at California Speedway..
I would love to meet ya and check out yer ride!
Thanks again for the well written detailed post.
11-27-2007, 01:55 PM
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E63 P30, CL500 Sport
In the "Factory Approved Service Products" booklet, don't most of the engine oils have a little asterisk by them that refers to a note on the bottom that says
"* Not Approved for AMG Engines"
The only oil for cars after 2005 without the asterisk is the Mobile1 0W-40. Are we reading the same page? These are oils meeting the MB Sheet 229.5.
Now to be honest, I do not think the oil you are using will really be problem and may in fact perform better than the Mobile1 based on your experience. But, when warrantee issues arise where the engine oil performance might have been a factor it is good to be squeeky clean.
"* Not Approved for AMG Engines"
The only oil for cars after 2005 without the asterisk is the Mobile1 0W-40. Are we reading the same page? These are oils meeting the MB Sheet 229.5.
Now to be honest, I do not think the oil you are using will really be problem and may in fact perform better than the Mobile1 based on your experience. But, when warrantee issues arise where the engine oil performance might have been a factor it is good to be squeeky clean.
11-27-2007, 02:01 PM
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09 c63 10 c300 Nissan truck
I figured since there wasn't one with pics, I would make my own...
(This should work for the E63 as well, since the engine is the same)
I always like draining the oil from the oil pan, as I did with my Nissan 350z, so I figured I'd do the same with the cls. The only dilemma I faced was that other than the jack points under the side-skirts, there wasn't any other jack-point to raise the car hence I could not use my jack-stands like I did previously with my 350z.
Solution was rhino ramps which I bought from kragen.
Tools & Supplies:
1. 8mm socket for nuts that hold two plastic under-pieces.
2. 13mm socket for oil-drain nut.
3. gloves/ wrench for oil filter, etc.
4. got 2 5-qt jugs of Pennzoil Platinum full synthetic 5w-30 from walmart for $41 incl tax.
5. mercedes stealer - $24 oil filter.
Step 1:-
Drive the car around the block , get the temp up to at least 87-90 deg celsius. Then drive up the Rhino Ramps (very carefully)
Step 2:-
Roll under the car, and remove the two plastic pieces using the 8mm socket, about 10 nuts in total.
Step 3:-
Open hood, remove the plastic piece with the Mercedes symbol on it, then using a wrench, remove the oil filter cap, and pull out the oil filter. Also remove the oil-filler cap as well (optional)
Step 4:-
Use the 13mm socket and break loose the nut (will be very tight the first time), then slowly loosen the nut making sure you have a drain pan all set.
Warning!: Be careful here, use gloves because the oil will be hot and it will suddenly gush out ! I let her drip for half an hour or so.
Step 5:-
While she's still dripping, change the oil filter. I went ahead and cleaned the Cap of all the stale oil, scrubbed & dried her clean... Screw the filter back into its original location and tighten it with a wrench.
Step 6:-
Put the Drain nut back on (don't forget the washer), wipe everything clean.
Step 7:-
Pour in the new oil and check the oil dipstick every quart or so after 5qts to make sure you don't over-fill. I was able to get 7 qts till it reached almost max, but I put it another quart just to be safe. So i got in a total of 8 quarts.
Once you are done, go back under , check for leaks and if everything looks fine, put the two plastic pieces back on , roll off the ramps and you're good to go !
Hope this is helpful to all the rest of you DIY'ers... It was a fun experience, and I got to poke around under the car which is always fun...
(This should work for the E63 as well, since the engine is the same)
I always like draining the oil from the oil pan, as I did with my Nissan 350z, so I figured I'd do the same with the cls. The only dilemma I faced was that other than the jack points under the side-skirts, there wasn't any other jack-point to raise the car hence I could not use my jack-stands like I did previously with my 350z.
Solution was rhino ramps which I bought from kragen.
Tools & Supplies:
1. 8mm socket for nuts that hold two plastic under-pieces.
2. 13mm socket for oil-drain nut.
3. gloves/ wrench for oil filter, etc.
4. got 2 5-qt jugs of Pennzoil Platinum full synthetic 5w-30 from walmart for $41 incl tax.
5. mercedes stealer - $24 oil filter.
Step 1:-
Drive the car around the block , get the temp up to at least 87-90 deg celsius. Then drive up the Rhino Ramps (very carefully)
Step 2:-
Roll under the car, and remove the two plastic pieces using the 8mm socket, about 10 nuts in total.
Step 3:-
Open hood, remove the plastic piece with the Mercedes symbol on it, then using a wrench, remove the oil filter cap, and pull out the oil filter. Also remove the oil-filler cap as well (optional)
Step 4:-
Use the 13mm socket and break loose the nut (will be very tight the first time), then slowly loosen the nut making sure you have a drain pan all set.
Warning!: Be careful here, use gloves because the oil will be hot and it will suddenly gush out ! I let her drip for half an hour or so.Step 5:-
While she's still dripping, change the oil filter. I went ahead and cleaned the Cap of all the stale oil, scrubbed & dried her clean... Screw the filter back into its original location and tighten it with a wrench.
Step 6:-
Put the Drain nut back on (don't forget the washer), wipe everything clean.
Step 7:-
Pour in the new oil and check the oil dipstick every quart or so after 5qts to make sure you don't over-fill. I was able to get 7 qts till it reached almost max, but I put it another quart just to be safe. So i got in a total of 8 quarts.
Once you are done, go back under , check for leaks and if everything looks fine, put the two plastic pieces back on , roll off the ramps and you're good to go !
Hope this is helpful to all the rest of you DIY'ers... It was a fun experience, and I got to poke around under the car which is always fun...
11-27-2007, 06:07 PM
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07 CLS63 | 06 SLK350
0w is only for temperatures below -20F. you're in california, you're safe!
anyone in the east coast, or up north, better use 0w-40....
11-29-2007, 10:31 AM
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2007 E63 w/P30 and Eurotech CF Diffuser
This booklet, attached, is from Sept 2006.
The one I have in my car is 2007 shows the same thing.
Anyway, I have had plenty of experience with the information in these booklets being dated or incomplete. Particularly with my limited slip differential in my E63.
I am wondering if the June 2006 might not have been updated for the AMG engines.
The change in recommendation could just as likely be a "engineering" reason or a "marketing" reason.
Anyway, this is a discussion more about the documentation than about whether the oil will cause a problem. Like I said, I have no reason to think your oil choice will be any problem.
The one I have in my car is 2007 shows the same thing.
Anyway, I have had plenty of experience with the information in these booklets being dated or incomplete. Particularly with my limited slip differential in my E63.
I am wondering if the June 2006 might not have been updated for the AMG engines.
The change in recommendation could just as likely be a "engineering" reason or a "marketing" reason.
Anyway, this is a discussion more about the documentation than about whether the oil will cause a problem. Like I said, I have no reason to think your oil choice will be any problem.
Last edited by Jon2007E63P30; 01-08-2009 at 10:47 PM.
11-29-2007, 11:42 AM
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2006 ML-350 and 2007 ML-350
Be careful using ramps...........I gouged the underside of both sides of the lower front bumper cover on a '93 300SE as I backed off the ramps.
11-29-2007, 12:36 PM
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07 CLS63 | 06 SLK350
mobil1 tends to burn out quicker than most other oils, which is why people believe they have oil consumption problems.....
11-29-2007, 02:34 PM
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06 CLS55 w/ P030, 05 Jag S Type R, 05 TBird-68 Dodge Charger R/T-440 w/4speed I'm original owner
An xtra oil change between the manufacturer's recommendation of 10K is insurance in the bank.
I change mine every 5K and throw in a wheel alignment at the same time.
BTW--Don't forget to change out the rear end and tranny oil between recommended service intervals. I do the first one at 12K and every 24k there after.
This is a really good idea if you own the car and plan to keep it. Who cares if its a 24 month lease?
I change mine every 5K and throw in a wheel alignment at the same time.
BTW--Don't forget to change out the rear end and tranny oil between recommended service intervals. I do the first one at 12K and every 24k there after.
This is a really good idea if you own the car and plan to keep it. Who cares if its a 24 month lease?
11-29-2007, 03:06 PM
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07 CLS63 | 06 SLK350
changed the tranny oil in my 350z, was a piece of cake.. hope this is as easy
had put some redline mt oil, made the shifts 5-10% smoother...
11-30-2007, 11:53 AM
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06 CLS55 AMG-all options sans Distronic; Carrera4S; 07 M5;Lexus GS300
outstanding write up! Anyone ever done one on the 55? Also, I could not find a required or scheduled service at 15K miles for the 55? Car's running strong (so far
), but any recommendations are appreciated from this experienced group!!
), but any recommendations are appreciated from this experienced group!!
