Fix: Dynamic seat not working? Look here
01-25-2015, 08:02 PM
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Fix: Dynamic seat not working? Look here
For those of you who have the dynamic seat option you either already have or will have to deal with the seats malfunctioning at some point in time. This just happened to me and after searching around on this forum and google I realized no one has put together a decent fix thread and the go to option has been buying a new or used pump that isnt exactly cheap.
Instead of going that route I've decided to fix it myself and post a DIY for everyone who may have this problem in the future. So now, instead of spending >$200 on a new pump assembly you can go out and get those cooling mods done!
For starters I'll explain the symptoms...
1) Dynamic seat button lights up but nothing happens.
2) Pressing the Pulse button, it lights up and starts flashing for a minute or two and then turns off... and again, nothing happens.
3) None of the bolster adjustments work.
Some people have reported hearing a whistling sound before the problem started and I experienced the same. This whistling is what happens when the hot air coming from the air pump in the trunk is melting away the nipple that connects it to the lines going to the seat. The design for this is a little
____________________
So to start fixing the problem you'll need to remove the pump assembly from the trunk. Its located behind the navigation thing in the trunk on the drivers side behind the carpeting. There's one power plug going into it and two air lines connected to it. Its insulated by some removable gray foam.
1) Disconnect the air lines and the power plug.
2) Pull the whole assembly out
3) Split the black box around the seam using a flat head screwdriver or whatever tool you like. Dont worry about being too gentle, there's not much inside that you can break.
4) Be careful when you open the box as its likely that the failsafe bits have popped out (which is what they're supposed to do to keep your seats from popping).
5) The pump slips out and is connected to a circuit board that will come out with it. Make sure to disconnect the small pressure sensor from its clips when you remove from the black box.
6) Use a hex/star screwdriver to unscrew the 3 screws on the outside of the black box/housing which will release what I'll call the "Air Router". (This little black air router is likely where your problem is).
"Air Router" Pictured below:
The hot air from the pump has likely melted one of the nipples that goes inside the hose to the pump. You can see in this picture how the nipple thats supposed to be on the right has melted flat.
7) Now that you have your air router out, you will need to drill into the melted blob that used to be a nipple in preparation to add a replacement/substitute nipple. Be careful not to drill too hard and go through the air router or you will be spending money for a whole new unit. Drill slowly and check your depth often.
8) Now its time to find a good replacement that can be made air tight and hopefully not melt.
-My first attempt was a red wire crimp tube with the metal tube taken out from the inside with an awl. After testing it and finding it didnt work for long, I moved up to the bigger blue wire crimp which needed some sanding but after some slow and careful work I got it to fit perfectly snug and tight in the new hole in the air router.
1st attempt that didnt work:
2nd attempt:
After cutting, sanding, and fitting the blue tube into the air router I then used some Flex Seal (very small amount) around the edges of the tube and the hole to hopefully help with the seal.
9) From here all you need to do is reassemble everything the same way you took it apart but make sure the two hoses coming off the pump are pushed down over the nipples and the failsafe is put back together properly.
(it goes in order: small rubber disk>small plastic disk>O-ring around the white plastic disk> push white plastic disk in on top of the small plastic disk and push in till it snaps.)
10) Re-install and enjoy
Also, when reinstalling the failsafe, it needs to be pushed in farther than what is shown in these pictures. In the pictures it is not seated all the way, I found this out the hard way but just remember to push it deeper into the air router to create a good seal.
As far as the tube I used as a replacement nipple, it may or may not work for you depending on the size hole you drill in the air router but with some imagination you can make it work. Just remember to drill the hole smaller first and go bigger from there if you need.
I hope this was helpful.
Cheers
Instead of going that route I've decided to fix it myself and post a DIY for everyone who may have this problem in the future. So now, instead of spending >$200 on a new pump assembly you can go out and get those cooling mods done!
For starters I'll explain the symptoms...
1) Dynamic seat button lights up but nothing happens.
2) Pressing the Pulse button, it lights up and starts flashing for a minute or two and then turns off... and again, nothing happens.
3) None of the bolster adjustments work.
Some people have reported hearing a whistling sound before the problem started and I experienced the same. This whistling is what happens when the hot air coming from the air pump in the trunk is melting away the nipple that connects it to the lines going to the seat. The design for this is a little
____________________
So to start fixing the problem you'll need to remove the pump assembly from the trunk. Its located behind the navigation thing in the trunk on the drivers side behind the carpeting. There's one power plug going into it and two air lines connected to it. Its insulated by some removable gray foam.
1) Disconnect the air lines and the power plug.
2) Pull the whole assembly out
3) Split the black box around the seam using a flat head screwdriver or whatever tool you like. Dont worry about being too gentle, there's not much inside that you can break.
4) Be careful when you open the box as its likely that the failsafe bits have popped out (which is what they're supposed to do to keep your seats from popping).
5) The pump slips out and is connected to a circuit board that will come out with it. Make sure to disconnect the small pressure sensor from its clips when you remove from the black box.
6) Use a hex/star screwdriver to unscrew the 3 screws on the outside of the black box/housing which will release what I'll call the "Air Router". (This little black air router is likely where your problem is).
"Air Router" Pictured below:
The hot air from the pump has likely melted one of the nipples that goes inside the hose to the pump. You can see in this picture how the nipple thats supposed to be on the right has melted flat.
7) Now that you have your air router out, you will need to drill into the melted blob that used to be a nipple in preparation to add a replacement/substitute nipple. Be careful not to drill too hard and go through the air router or you will be spending money for a whole new unit. Drill slowly and check your depth often.
8) Now its time to find a good replacement that can be made air tight and hopefully not melt.
-My first attempt was a red wire crimp tube with the metal tube taken out from the inside with an awl. After testing it and finding it didnt work for long, I moved up to the bigger blue wire crimp which needed some sanding but after some slow and careful work I got it to fit perfectly snug and tight in the new hole in the air router.
1st attempt that didnt work:
2nd attempt:
After cutting, sanding, and fitting the blue tube into the air router I then used some Flex Seal (very small amount) around the edges of the tube and the hole to hopefully help with the seal.
9) From here all you need to do is reassemble everything the same way you took it apart but make sure the two hoses coming off the pump are pushed down over the nipples and the failsafe is put back together properly.
(it goes in order: small rubber disk>small plastic disk>O-ring around the white plastic disk> push white plastic disk in on top of the small plastic disk and push in till it snaps.)
10) Re-install and enjoy
Also, when reinstalling the failsafe, it needs to be pushed in farther than what is shown in these pictures. In the pictures it is not seated all the way, I found this out the hard way but just remember to push it deeper into the air router to create a good seal.
As far as the tube I used as a replacement nipple, it may or may not work for you depending on the size hole you drill in the air router but with some imagination you can make it work. Just remember to drill the hole smaller first and go bigger from there if you need.
I hope this was helpful.
Cheers
The following 8 users liked this post by romeomikehotel:
BIGBEAR_1 (03-26-2021),
Diego55 (09-22-2020),
jmirgy (07-03-2022),
Luddyludwick (08-29-2019),
MGheorghe (01-23-2021),
and 3 others liked this post.
10-23-2018, 03:40 AM
#5
Newbie
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
2004 E55 AMG
Driver side (LHD) Dynamic Seat dead
Hi All..
Shortly described, my issue is that the Driver side seat cannot activate either Pulse or Dynamic and bolster inflate, everything that uses air pressure. Adjusting the seat height and back/forth works fine. The compressor is Ok, since the passenger side seat Pulse/Dynamic is Ok. But on the driver side, the button for the Pulse function doesn't light up, like a fuse is blown or dead control module. I have checked fuses and have not found anything bad there. Any ideas folks.. ??
Thanks a lot upfront :-)
Best regards, Michael
Shortly described, my issue is that the Driver side seat cannot activate either Pulse or Dynamic and bolster inflate, everything that uses air pressure. Adjusting the seat height and back/forth works fine. The compressor is Ok, since the passenger side seat Pulse/Dynamic is Ok. But on the driver side, the button for the Pulse function doesn't light up, like a fuse is blown or dead control module. I have checked fuses and have not found anything bad there. Any ideas folks.. ??
Thanks a lot upfront :-)
Best regards, Michael
10-26-2018, 07:52 AM
#6
@Turbomic, I've almost the same problem with my but with passenger side, manually I can push pressure in each cushion but dynamic seat isn't working.
So please if you will find solution just share with us
Rafi
So please if you will find solution just share with us
Rafi
02-18-2019, 05:52 PM
#7
For those of you who have the dynamic seat option you either already have or will have to deal with the seats malfunctioning at some point in time. This just happened to me and after searching around on this forum and google I realized no one has put together a decent fix thread and the go to option has been buying a new or used pump that isnt exactly cheap.
Instead of going that route I've decided to fix it myself and post a DIY for everyone who may have this problem in the future. So now, instead of spending >$200 on a new pump assembly you can go out and get those cooling mods done!
For starters I'll explain the symptoms...
1) Dynamic seat button lights up but nothing happens.
2) Pressing the Pulse button, it lights up and starts flashing for a minute or two and then turns off... and again, nothing happens.
3) None of the bolster adjustments work.
Some people have reported hearing a whistling sound before the problem started and I experienced the same. This whistling is what happens when the hot air coming from the air pump in the trunk is melting away the nipple that connects it to the lines going to the seat. The design for this is a little
____________________
So to start fixing the problem you'll need to remove the pump assembly from the trunk. Its located behind the navigation thing in the trunk on the drivers side behind the carpeting. There's one power plug going into it and two air lines connected to it. Its insulated by some removable gray foam.
1) Disconnect the air lines and the power plug.
2) Pull the whole assembly out
3) Split the black box around the seam using a flat head screwdriver or whatever tool you like. Dont worry about being too gentle, there's not much inside that you can break.
4) Be careful when you open the box as its likely that the failsafe bits have popped out (which is what they're supposed to do to keep your seats from popping).
5) The pump slips out and is connected to a circuit board that will come out with it. Make sure to disconnect the small pressure sensor from its clips when you remove from the black box.
Attachment 392280
6) Use a hex/star screwdriver to unscrew the 3 screws on the outside of the black box/housing which will release what I'll call the "Air Router". (This little black air router is likely where your problem is).
"Air Router" Pictured below:
Attachment 392281
The hot air from the pump has likely melted one of the nipples that goes inside the hose to the pump. You can see in this picture how the nipple thats supposed to be on the right has melted flat.
Attachment 392282
7) Now that you have your air router out, you will need to drill into the melted blob that used to be a nipple in preparation to add a replacement/substitute nipple. Be careful not to drill too hard and go through the air router or you will be spending money for a whole new unit. Drill slowly and check your depth often.
Attachment 392283
8) Now its time to find a good replacement that can be made air tight and hopefully not melt.
-My first attempt was a red wire crimp tube with the metal tube taken out from the inside with an awl. After testing it and finding it didnt work for long, I moved up to the bigger blue wire crimp which needed some sanding but after some slow and careful work I got it to fit perfectly snug and tight in the new hole in the air router.
1st attempt that didnt work:
Attachment 392284
2nd attempt:
Attachment 392285
Attachment 392286
Attachment 392287
After cutting, sanding, and fitting the blue tube into the air router I then used some Flex Seal (very small amount) around the edges of the tube and the hole to hopefully help with the seal.
9) From here all you need to do is reassemble everything the same way you took it apart but make sure the two hoses coming off the pump are pushed down over the nipples and the failsafe is put back together properly.
(it goes in order: small rubber disk>small plastic disk>O-ring around the white plastic disk> push white plastic disk in on top of the small plastic disk and push in till it snaps.)
10) Re-install and enjoy
Also, when reinstalling the failsafe, it needs to be pushed in farther than what is shown in these pictures. In the pictures it is not seated all the way, I found this out the hard way but just remember to push it deeper into the air router to create a good seal.
As far as the tube I used as a replacement nipple, it may or may not work for you depending on the size hole you drill in the air router but with some imagination you can make it work. Just remember to drill the hole smaller first and go bigger from there if you need.
I hope this was helpful.
Cheers
Instead of going that route I've decided to fix it myself and post a DIY for everyone who may have this problem in the future. So now, instead of spending >$200 on a new pump assembly you can go out and get those cooling mods done!
For starters I'll explain the symptoms...
1) Dynamic seat button lights up but nothing happens.
2) Pressing the Pulse button, it lights up and starts flashing for a minute or two and then turns off... and again, nothing happens.
3) None of the bolster adjustments work.
Some people have reported hearing a whistling sound before the problem started and I experienced the same. This whistling is what happens when the hot air coming from the air pump in the trunk is melting away the nipple that connects it to the lines going to the seat. The design for this is a little
____________________
So to start fixing the problem you'll need to remove the pump assembly from the trunk. Its located behind the navigation thing in the trunk on the drivers side behind the carpeting. There's one power plug going into it and two air lines connected to it. Its insulated by some removable gray foam.
1) Disconnect the air lines and the power plug.
2) Pull the whole assembly out
3) Split the black box around the seam using a flat head screwdriver or whatever tool you like. Dont worry about being too gentle, there's not much inside that you can break.
4) Be careful when you open the box as its likely that the failsafe bits have popped out (which is what they're supposed to do to keep your seats from popping).
5) The pump slips out and is connected to a circuit board that will come out with it. Make sure to disconnect the small pressure sensor from its clips when you remove from the black box.
Attachment 392280
6) Use a hex/star screwdriver to unscrew the 3 screws on the outside of the black box/housing which will release what I'll call the "Air Router". (This little black air router is likely where your problem is).
"Air Router" Pictured below:
Attachment 392281
The hot air from the pump has likely melted one of the nipples that goes inside the hose to the pump. You can see in this picture how the nipple thats supposed to be on the right has melted flat.
Attachment 392282
7) Now that you have your air router out, you will need to drill into the melted blob that used to be a nipple in preparation to add a replacement/substitute nipple. Be careful not to drill too hard and go through the air router or you will be spending money for a whole new unit. Drill slowly and check your depth often.
Attachment 392283
8) Now its time to find a good replacement that can be made air tight and hopefully not melt.
-My first attempt was a red wire crimp tube with the metal tube taken out from the inside with an awl. After testing it and finding it didnt work for long, I moved up to the bigger blue wire crimp which needed some sanding but after some slow and careful work I got it to fit perfectly snug and tight in the new hole in the air router.
1st attempt that didnt work:
Attachment 392284
2nd attempt:
Attachment 392285
Attachment 392286
Attachment 392287
After cutting, sanding, and fitting the blue tube into the air router I then used some Flex Seal (very small amount) around the edges of the tube and the hole to hopefully help with the seal.
9) From here all you need to do is reassemble everything the same way you took it apart but make sure the two hoses coming off the pump are pushed down over the nipples and the failsafe is put back together properly.
(it goes in order: small rubber disk>small plastic disk>O-ring around the white plastic disk> push white plastic disk in on top of the small plastic disk and push in till it snaps.)
10) Re-install and enjoy
Also, when reinstalling the failsafe, it needs to be pushed in farther than what is shown in these pictures. In the pictures it is not seated all the way, I found this out the hard way but just remember to push it deeper into the air router to create a good seal.
As far as the tube I used as a replacement nipple, it may or may not work for you depending on the size hole you drill in the air router but with some imagination you can make it work. Just remember to drill the hole smaller first and go bigger from there if you need.
I hope this was helpful.
Cheers
Trending Topics
05-14-2020, 10:09 AM
#9
Newbie
Join Date: May 2020
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
W219 cls 500
Hello, b
easy way to fix it - buy pump from w221 (with fan)
In my case it isn't startup in my w219(I don't know why) but I decided to desolder pcb module from my old pump. So disassembly (w221) pump and desolder pcb and solder old pcb (w219 unlucky pcb won't fit in w221 case so I decided to keep it outside)
it will work good but pump isn't fit w219 barcket so think out something
Best part I paid 45usd for full set pump barcket air reservoir (used)
easy way to fix it - buy pump from w221 (with fan)
In my case it isn't startup in my w219(I don't know why) but I decided to desolder pcb module from my old pump. So disassembly (w221) pump and desolder pcb and solder old pcb (w219 unlucky pcb won't fit in w221 case so I decided to keep it outside
)it will work good but pump isn't fit w219 barcket so think out something
Best part I paid 45usd for full set pump barcket air reservoir (used)
08-27-2020, 07:13 PM
#10
Newbie
