tmak26b

Any write up on how to change plugs and wires on 89 190e 2.6?

Also what plugs should I buy, NGK or Bosch? Wires? Thanks

Are there any FAQ on 190e?

thanks

kepla

There's nothing particularly unusual or difficult in renewing the ignition components and any workshop manual will give you the info you need - for example 'haynes' or 'Autodata' or whatever ones you have access to.
If you can find a source of supply, you will find the Bosch 'quadspark' -plugs are an advantage to have. easier starting, smoother running, maybe 1 mog and/or 1 bhp extra too.

MTI

Since you're replacing the wires, you don't have to be overly careful in removing them, however in the future, remember that you don't tug on the wires because you risk breaking the connection at the plug cap.

Replace the plug and wires one at a time, and you won't have to worry about messing up the 'firing order.'

NGK wire sets appear to be the most consistent resistance from various member's tests.

I have reservations about those "pre-gapped" multiple electrode plugs, since it's nearly impossible to check or alter the gap. Increases in performance is debatable. Single electrode, non-resistor, copper plugs will work fine in the engine.

tmak26b

I heard there is a resistor at the end of the wire, what are they called?

Is it these things? http://img.eautopartscatalog.com/live/F101013373BOS.JPG

Car will be here in 6 hours thanks

kepla

I call mine 'Tom', 'Dick', 'Harry' & 'Fred'.
Some people call them 'suppressors' - as the resistance is there to suppress radio interference.
Those things are the 'plug caps' - the caps which fit on to the spark plugs, and are fitted on the ends of the plug leads. Sometimes the supression resistance is built in to the plug caps and sometimes it is built in to the lead itself. You buy the whole lot as one item and don't mess with it !
Actually, it isn't that difficult to check the gaps really - you just have to think about how you're doing it. Using the tip of a narrow feeler guage, you check the gaps of two electrodes at the same time.
I keep a very carefull mpg check on all my cars continuously - always have, always will.
I have used the quad-spark plugs so far on two Jaguars, a Range Rover, Mercedes 190E and Volvo 240. In every case I noticed the same result - slightly better mpg, easier starting and cold running in winter - but of curse, this is purely from my own experience.
Yes, that is the basic spec the engine was designed with. It is important to use copper-cored plugs and not resistive ones, as the plug leads are resistive. If you want to be original then use Bosch leads. My own 190E had resistive plugs fitted as well as the resisitive leads, and became very difficult to start from cold during the first winter I owned it.
I've found the mercedes seems to respond really well to having the ignition system in first class condition. Regular 34 mpg is possible out of a 109E !

tmak26b

Got the car today, mileage is 114xxx.

Everything is in good shape, but suffers from old age like usual with cars this age. Couple things I am hoping to get help on

#1 My ABS doesnt work and my ABS light is not there, how hard is it to change the bulb and is there anyway to check the faulty code on the ABS without the light?

#2 How hard is it to change the power mirror switch? Mine only goes up and down, but not left to right. I am thinking it is a switch.

#3 Does the 190E use the green or orange coolant?

#4 Where is teh PVC valve located in the car?

#5 I noticed when I hit WOT on the car, the pedal would pop down even further and make a banging noise. What is that? Do I have to reset my throttle cable?

Thanks

mctwin2kman

Make sure you use NGK plug wires. On the M102 and M103 engine the plug wire, ends, should have 1KOhm resistance. I have found through several tests, I bought so many, of Beru, Bosch, and NGK wires and just end connectors and the Bosch and Beru's first were not in spec cold and new, as well as at the very top of the spec when hot due to the engine running. The only ones that did not wander hot/cold were the NGK's. The spec is 900Ohms to 1.2KOhms. Warm the Bosch were 1.19-1.24KOhm. The Beru stayed below 1.18KOhm. That is to close or over the top of the spec when the engine is at operating temp. Remember these sit above the exhaust manifold so they do get hot. The NGK's always stay at 960Ohm.

Edit: Cold the Bosch were at 1.1KOHm. The Beru at 1.05-1.1! The NGK out of the box were 960Ohm and have stayed there for over a year, hot or cold.