mconvey

Hello! My 190e 2.3 8v has gradually become harder to start when cold and is now to the point that it will start, surge, and then die. If I keep starting the car and use the accelerator I can keep it running long enough for the engine to warm up and idle much more smoothly at about 1050 RPM. After the car is completely warm the idle in park is about 1300 RPM. Cold start injector and temp sensor check good. How do I check the following:

OVP relay (fuse is good)
Idle air control motor
Air flow sensor

Anything else I should be looking for? I plan to remove the intake to clean up the throttle body and take care of any vacum leaks but I would like to know that the above componets are good before I start.

Any help would be greatly appreciated

paul2.6

Take a look at your distributor cap and rotor, they may need changing. Good luck!

mctwin2kman

Engine Temp Sensor for CIS-E! It is a two pin-two connector type sensor! About 40 bucks or so online! Most likely it is that sensor! It tells the CIS-E controller what the temp of the engine is so as to fire cold start valve as well as control mixture at diferent temps!

mconvey

Cap, plugs, rotor, and wires changed in last 10K miles. Coil resistance is within spec. CIS temp sensor checks ok. Witchhunter Performance cleaned and flow tested the injectors, two were leaking and crack pressures were all over the place. All are now within 10% of each other. OVP is good. Idle stabilizer valve was not working. Disassembled and did a quick and dirty fix to see if I could get it to operate. Now with the engine running if I disconnect it electrically idle will jump up, which seems to be the common test. The cold start problem is gone along with most of the rough idle and idle speed in park is acceptable. Idle in drive drops to 550, which is low. Cleaned the throttle body, airflow sensor, vacum steady at 17". Mixture is set 10% higher than reading a 2500 RPM, purged the fuel distributor, O2 checks good, timing is correct. What am I missing? I think my cheapo meter won't read amperage so as of yet I have not been able to take a reading on the EHA, but the engine does stumble if I disconnect it with the engine running. Any ideas would be appreciated!

mctwin2kman

Check the rubber hoses that connect the Idle Air Control Valve to the Idle Air Distributor and to the bottom of the Intake Manifold. Mine were old and cracked and I replaced all of them. There are 3 on top and one underneath. I just had to go out and get the bottom one as I could not find it online. It was $14. The rest were all under $10 a piece and I found them at EuropeanAutomotive.com. Great place to get parts and it is cheaper than the Stealership is. Plus free shipping on any order over $50. The only other thing would be a vacuum leak. I refreshed all old vacuum connectors and cound quite a few old cracked ones. My idle is still not as smooth as I would like but I have replaced everything but the injectors. I need to do them next.