am I dragging an anchor?
@195,000 miles car has never really run perfectly, the engine itself is good (great compression and burns no oil). Idles perfectly when warm.
Issues:
- Difficult cold start, if you give it gas when cold the engine will die. Has to run for 5-10 seconds.
- Very slow, slower than my 300D. Feels like I am dragging a boat anchor. I have to floor it. Especially bad with A/C on, it is a chore to hit 40 mph.
- head-gasket and timing chain- head was decked, I did NOT install an offset woodruff key
- new fuel tank
- fuel pumps & filter
- fuel distributor & EHA rebuilt by CIS flowtech- mixture screw adjusted properly
- new plugs, wires, rotor
- NO vacuum leaks, whole intake was removed and every gasket new.
- OVP and voltage regulator new
Im leaning towards: fuel accumulator or it needs an offset woodruff key (dial indicators, math, wormhole http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/OM617TimingChainStretch).
What else is left? Air flow potentiometer?
I'm running out of items to replace.
Last edited by natejgreene9871; Sep 13, 2021 at 07:52 PM.




The 3 components that govern this is:
AFM pot
Coolant temp sensor
ECU
To make sure my long distance diagnostic hunch is correct, you will have to measure your EHA current. I have a post of the expected behavior on the other side of the "World".
Read that if you like on the expected EHA current when cold. It is titled something like "EHA current, how is it supposed to behave anyway" or something to that effect.
If you have the means to measure EHA current that is the best starting point.
You should also measure your Coolant temp sensor resistance and compare against the spec. Perhaps measure it at room temp and post it here.
It is a remote possibility but we have seen one example in the not so distant past of the ECU being defective and not providing the open loop enrichment.
BTW, after the FD rebuild, you should post your duty cycle reading here one more time (at operating temp). Remember to take measurements at idle and immediately followed but that at 2500rpm.
The possibility of the accumulator causing running issues is zero. It really can not effect your fuel pressure while the pumps are running. It is only there to maintain pressure after the pumps turn off.
the car is operating in closed loop. New oxygen sensor and multimeter confirms closed
Last edited by natejgreene9871; Sep 13, 2021 at 09:39 PM.




The cracked insulator could be a problem but not necessarily.
Does you temp gauge in the instrument panel behave erratically ever? Perhaps that pair is OK?
If the temp sensor is out of range that should throw a code (I believe), do you have a OBD-1 code reader?
- Temp gauge in cluster is fine, nothing erratic
- I have OBD1 reader- no codes detected.
- the sensor did go through the parts washer when the head was machined so it is suspect. I bought a new one ($20) and will try to take the plug apart and repair 1265403081. Plug is $90 at dealer!!




Good luck and patience with the repair Nate.
This may not be your problem but it sure needs to repair.
I went to the junkyard today and got a new wiring connector and sensor. Soldered it in and seems to have made a difference!
Unlike most of the other MB connectors, this one seems to be fused together and unrepairable. Must replace
Starts much quicker. Seems to have more power based on a few hours of driving.
I can't believe this little sensor could cause that as it was still running in closed loop mode?
This all does make sense now, for years the car would run great one day and **** the next, totally unpredictable.
Thank you for the suggestion!
Last edited by natejgreene9871; Sep 17, 2021 at 12:08 AM.
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I went to the junkyard today and got a new wiring connector and sensor. Soldered it in and seems to have made a difference!
Unlike most of the other MB connectors, this one seems to be fused together and unrepairable. Must replace
Starts much quicker. Seems to have more power based on a few hours of driving.
I can't believe this little sensor could cause that as it was still running in closed loop mode?
This all does make sense now, for years the car would run great one day and **** the next, totally unpredictable.
Thank you for the suggestion!




I'm not aware of yet another sensor on the cylinder head for the temp gauge.
Now I'm puzzled....


