190E (W201) 1982-1993: 190E 2.3, 190E 2.6, 190E 2.3-16, 190E 2.5-16, 190 D 2.2, 190 D 2.5, 190 D 2.5 TURBO, 190E 2.5-16 Evolution I, 190E 2.5-16 Evolution II

am I dragging an anchor?

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Old Sep 13, 2021 | 07:47 PM
  #1  
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190e, 450sl, 300D
am I dragging an anchor?

So, I've covered my 190 2.3 extensively on Benzworld and it has been a big ongoing project.
@195,000 miles car has never really run perfectly, the engine itself is good (great compression and burns no oil). Idles perfectly when warm.

Issues:
  • Difficult cold start, if you give it gas when cold the engine will die. Has to run for 5-10 seconds.
  • Very slow, slower than my 300D. Feels like I am dragging a boat anchor. I have to floor it. Especially bad with A/C on, it is a chore to hit 40 mph.
Relevant things I have done:
  • head-gasket and timing chain- head was decked, I did NOT install an offset woodruff key
  • new fuel tank
  • fuel pumps & filter
  • fuel distributor & EHA rebuilt by CIS flowtech- mixture screw adjusted properly
  • new plugs, wires, rotor
  • NO vacuum leaks, whole intake was removed and every gasket new.
  • OVP and voltage regulator new
What parts should I throw at it next on my monthly guessing game?

Im leaning towards: fuel accumulator or it needs an offset woodruff key (dial indicators, math, wormhole http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/OM617TimingChainStretch).

What else is left? Air flow potentiometer?
I'm running out of items to replace.





Last edited by natejgreene9871; Sep 13, 2021 at 07:52 PM.
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Old Sep 13, 2021 | 08:14 PM
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Hi Nate. So your cold start and running issue is because the system is not enriching the air/fuel mixture while cold.
The 3 components that govern this is:

AFM pot
Coolant temp sensor
ECU

To make sure my long distance diagnostic hunch is correct, you will have to measure your EHA current. I have a post of the expected behavior on the other side of the "World".
Read that if you like on the expected EHA current when cold. It is titled something like "EHA current, how is it supposed to behave anyway" or something to that effect.

If you have the means to measure EHA current that is the best starting point.

You should also measure your Coolant temp sensor resistance and compare against the spec. Perhaps measure it at room temp and post it here.

It is a remote possibility but we have seen one example in the not so distant past of the ECU being defective and not providing the open loop enrichment.

BTW, after the FD rebuild, you should post your duty cycle reading here one more time (at operating temp). Remember to take measurements at idle and immediately followed but that at 2500rpm.

The possibility of the accumulator causing running issues is zero. It really can not effect your fuel pressure while the pumps are running. It is only there to maintain pressure after the pumps turn off.
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Old Sep 13, 2021 | 09:22 PM
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is this plug with the cracked wiring the coolant temp sensor you are referring to? This would explain why my symptoms seem erratic? Some days it's fine, others it's not.

the car is operating in closed loop. New oxygen sensor and multimeter confirms closed




Last edited by natejgreene9871; Sep 13, 2021 at 09:39 PM.
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Old Sep 13, 2021 | 10:41 PM
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That indeed is the coolant temp sensor. One pair goes to the ECU, the other pair goes to your instrument cluster.

The cracked insulator could be a problem but not necessarily.
Does you temp gauge in the instrument panel behave erratically ever? Perhaps that pair is OK?

If the temp sensor is out of range that should throw a code (I believe), do you have a OBD-1 code reader?

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Old Sep 14, 2021 | 12:27 AM
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  • Temp gauge in cluster is fine, nothing erratic
  • I have OBD1 reader- no codes detected.
  • the sensor did go through the parts washer when the head was machined so it is suspect. I bought a new one ($20) and will try to take the plug apart and repair 1265403081. Plug is $90 at dealer!!
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Old Sep 14, 2021 | 01:11 AM
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The plug is one part you can buy at the junk yard. $5 at pick and pull and it is not a wear item. Never seen one as bad as yours. Mine is original.
Good luck and patience with the repair Nate.

This may not be your problem but it sure needs to repair.
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Old Sep 17, 2021 | 12:03 AM
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I think that was the problem!

I went to the junkyard today and got a new wiring connector and sensor. Soldered it in and seems to have made a difference!

Unlike most of the other MB connectors, this one seems to be fused together and unrepairable. Must replace

Starts much quicker. Seems to have more power based on a few hours of driving.

I can't believe this little sensor could cause that as it was still running in closed loop mode?

This all does make sense now, for years the car would run great one day and **** the next, totally unpredictable.

Thank you for the suggestion!

Last edited by natejgreene9871; Sep 17, 2021 at 12:08 AM.
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Old Sep 17, 2021 | 12:08 AM
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Also, FYI this sensor has no effect on the instrument cluster temp gauge. Still reads temp with it unplugged.
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Old Sep 17, 2021 | 12:53 AM
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dolucasi's Avatar
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Originally Posted by natejgreene9871
I think that was the problem!

I went to the junkyard today and got a new wiring connector and sensor. Soldered it in and seems to have made a difference!

Unlike most of the other MB connectors, this one seems to be fused together and unrepairable. Must replace

Starts much quicker. Seems to have more power based on a few hours of driving.

I can't believe this little sensor could cause that as it was still running in closed loop mode?

This all does make sense now, for years the car would run great one day and **** the next, totally unpredictable.

Thank you for the suggestion!
Good to hear you made some progress with this Nate, hopefully it resolved all the issues and there are no other underlying problems.
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Old Sep 17, 2021 | 12:59 AM
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Originally Posted by natejgreene9871
Also, FYI this sensor has no effect on the instrument cluster temp gauge. Still reads temp with it unplugged.
That is surprising. I have never checked this but the circuit schematics only show 2 temp sensors plus the aux fan sensor. 1 of the temp sensors goes directly to the ECU and the other directly to the Instrument cluster. I always believed the connector you replaced had 2 sensors in it for this purpose.

I'm not aware of yet another sensor on the cylinder head for the temp gauge.

Now I'm puzzled....
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