190E (W201) 1982-1993: 190E 2.3, 190E 2.6, 190E 2.3-16, 190E 2.5-16, 190 D 2.2, 190 D 2.5, 190 D 2.5 TURBO, 190E 2.5-16 Evolution I, 190E 2.5-16 Evolution II

2.5 16v stalling

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Old Apr 5, 2022 | 12:27 PM
  #151  
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190E 2.6L 1989, 190E 2.6L 1988, BMW 535dXdrive 2014, BMW 428i 2015
Guess I should try adjusting the eha next?

>>Dolucasi - For god's sake do not touch that EHA adjustment screw now. There is only one reason to adjust an EHA and you are nowhere near that condition. I will explain later.

>>Dolucasi - Plus it is clear that your FD is adjusted way incorrectly or the FD is busted. You never responded to my earlier question. How far are you tuning that screw in each adjustment?

>>Dolucasi - Currently you are adjusted way too rich, so you will need to turn the screw to lean it 1/6 th at a time to see if it can be leaned. Record your findings every time you turn the screw. And see how it starts. The EHA should be plugged back in when you do this.

>>Dolucasi - Also do not rule out that your FD may need a rebuild. But before that you will need to double check if the EHA is receiving the correct enrichment signal when cold and not something completely wrong. We can check this later.
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Old Apr 5, 2022 | 02:07 PM
  #152  
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One more thing. At this point you do need a dual input fuel pressure gauge set-up to check system and chamber pressures and make adjustments. I assume you do not have one, they are ~$100 in the US, not sure about Japan, probably at least twice the price there.

You need to acquire one of these, borrow or purchase one. I'm attaching my unit photo's for reference




Last edited by dolucasi; Apr 5, 2022 at 07:19 PM. Reason: typo
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Old Apr 5, 2022 | 04:45 PM
  #153  
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1991 190E 2.3
Originally Posted by rufrob
I need to be lectured to. This is a completely new world of pain for me.
I've never had so much trouble getting any car to run. This beats the Lancia Delta Integrale modified motor swap with tonnes of aftermarket bits hands down.
I was busy yesterday so I'll try to get back to the car tonight or tomorrow.
I'm very careful not to crank it for long. So soon as it get it running properly and painted look for it on an auction site.
No offense but you really need to learn how to follow directions. I agree with Dolucassi that previous owners have been making various fuel and timing adjustments combined with messing up the wiring and using incompatible aftermarket parts to create the mess you're currently trying to diagnose. As you're checking all of the various pieces of your fuel system to see if they're in working order, you're continuing to make timing and fuel adjustments before you've established whether or not a particular part is working properly. You're continually doing this which is only making the problem worse because the fuel and timing settings are changing every time you test a different part so it's not possible for you to get consistent results. You can't keep doing this. You're making your car impossible to properly diagnose. I would suggest you google Pierre Hedary who is an expert on the KE-Jetronic fuel system and watch some of his Youtube videos on the KE-Jetronic fuel system to see if these videos can help you and you need to purchase a Haynes manual to also help guide you. You might also email the MB Classic Center to find out what the fuel and timing settings actually were when your car left the MB factory. Get your car back to those settings and don't change them any more. Getting your car back to the original factory settings will help you determine which part is faulty.. Dolucassi and I are trying to help you but we can't help you if you don't follow directions.
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Old Apr 5, 2022 | 09:06 PM
  #154  
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I couldn't follow directions yesterday because when I tried without the eha it wouldn't start. Checked everything I could. Even the fuel level light was out. I loosened the main line to find no fuel at all.
By that time I had the injectors out tried to get a flow by adjusting the A/F mixture. I put 10 liters in just 2 weeks ago.
In fact it was out of gas. So all the settings made before were all gone.
First time I tried with the eha disconnected it fired once then wouldn't start. With the injectors removed I tuned them for just zero flow with the jumped fp. That was the only way it would start.
That's the background as to why I couldn't follow directions.
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Old Apr 5, 2022 | 09:45 PM
  #155  
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Another mishap. You have not been fortunate. Like I said in my previous post, at this point you need that fuel pressure gauge to set things back to normal, never touch the adjustment screw again and take it from there.
See if you can get the fuel pressure gauge that is in my previous post. If you have two reliable gauges with a max scale of 6-Bars or so we can do that too but you will need to calibrate them first because the differential pressure is needed and the accuracy of 2 gauges would be suspect. that is why a single gauge is used for both measurements (system pressure and control pressure), You will also need the fittings and they all come with the set I sent you.
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Old Apr 6, 2022 | 12:09 PM
  #156  
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1991 190E 2.3
Originally Posted by rufrob
I couldn't follow directions yesterday because when I tried without the eha it wouldn't start. Checked everything I could. Even the fuel level light was out. I loosened the main line to find no fuel at all.
By that time I had the injectors out tried to get a flow by adjusting the A/F mixture. I put 10 liters in just 2 weeks ago.
In fact it was out of gas. So all the settings made before were all gone.
First time I tried with the eha disconnected it fired once then wouldn't start. With the injectors removed I tuned them for just zero flow with the jumped fp. That was the only way it would start.
That's the background as to why I couldn't follow directions.
Continuously adjusting the A/F mixture, etc is why you're not getting anywhere and you're continuing to make things worse. Please follow Dolucassi's latest instructions to the letter and just maybe we might get somewhere in helping you diagnose your car.
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Old Apr 6, 2022 | 06:03 PM
  #157  
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I got a fuel gauge. I'll try it today.
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Old Apr 6, 2022 | 10:38 PM
  #158  
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Good. If you need help with it let me know. Hopefully the fittings are included. You can use my measurement set-up in the photo's.
The gauge readings there is what you need. System pressure ~5.5bar , control pressure 0.4bar lower. System works on a pressure differential.

- Cheers!
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Old Apr 7, 2022 | 02:07 AM
  #159  
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I'm gonna have to do more research. The 16 fFD is very different from the 8v. The lower section port is not easily accessible and there is only 1 port to the CVS at the top

Cold start 1000-1300rpm
3-2=6.85-8.18
6-2=13.68-13.71
Stalled hot at
3-2=3.80
6-2=12.51
Quick restart fluctuation as above 1300-1800rpm
Shut off hot. WOT necessary to restart.
Gave it time to cool down and it started right away. Idle is stable @ 1000rpm and 100deg C
3-2=6.82
6-2=13.68
Attached Thumbnails 2.5 16v stalling-photo280.jpg   2.5 16v stalling-photo226.jpg   2.5 16v stalling-photo379.jpg   2.5 16v stalling-photo619.jpg  
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Old Apr 7, 2022 | 02:22 PM
  #160  
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Forgot about that. 4cyl, 6cyl, 8cyl all have different FD ports.
The one you are pointing to must be the control pressure (lower pressure) port.
People generally use the cold start valve line to take the system pressure reading since by definition it is the system pressure (higher pressure).

The following reading is new:
Cold start 1000-1300rpm
3-2=6.85-8.18

6-2=13.68-13.71
The cold code is either 40% or 50%, Does it drift to 8.18V gradually or at some point is switches to 8.18 or is it intermittent back and forth between 40% and 50%?
Describe this some more please.


But don't focus on the duty cycle readings for now, make sure your pressure readings are collected first.

You can watch Pierre Hedary's vidoes on the subject on how to take the measurements.

But most importantly, the not fiddle with anything, just report on the pressures to your thread first.

- Cheers!

Last edited by dolucasi; Apr 9, 2022 at 12:20 PM. Reason: typo
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Old Apr 7, 2022 | 05:55 PM
  #161  
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Cool. Thanks.
I hope the gauge hoses will clear.
Btw I took it for a short drive. Same bogging and no power. At least it starts and runs now.
How long does it take for the ECU to "learn"?
I guess I found some information online which wasn't correct for the 16v thus I was setting the FD flow rate as way too high.
I have a long day of work today so I'll connect the fuel pressure gauge on Saturday.
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Old Apr 7, 2022 | 06:26 PM
  #162  
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These are not learning ECU's. It is what it is right off the gate. Things will not get better over time.
Since you can drive the car, one option is to take it to your specialist to just check the fuel pressures and , make adjustments to at least set the FD properly.

Can you address the question I posed in thread #160? The question about your statement in bold.
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Old Apr 7, 2022 | 07:11 PM
  #163  
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Ok.
The specialist told me he is booked for months.
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Old Apr 8, 2022 | 12:03 AM
  #164  
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Originally Posted by rufrob
Ok.
The specialist told me he is booked for months.
That does not bode well for MB cars. I can get into my BMW specialist in 3 days
Must be an issue due to your location.
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Old Apr 8, 2022 | 01:09 AM
  #165  
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Japan is a case study as to what happens to a country with impossible immigration rules.
Few young people want to work with their hands
The tax system favors new purchases with generous depreciation allowances. And discourages old stuff with almost punitive depreciation and taxes. This goes for homes and cars.
It's amazing the Japanese middle class still exists. On the other hand it encourages circulation of wealth whereby it's difficult for one family to make gains.
So few people want to hold on to old cars and home because they are perceived to be worthless and expensive to repair.
Then we have the wealthy enthusiast who will pay almost anything to enjoy his cars.
Here shops frequently turn away customers because they have more than enough work to last years. Or they are afraid of the foreigner or Japanese client who will complain.
I could go on...
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Old Apr 8, 2022 | 06:59 AM
  #166  
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Only 1 attachment kinda works. Gonna have to borrow another set
Attached Thumbnails 2.5 16v stalling-photo661.jpg   2.5 16v stalling-photo128.jpg  
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Old Apr 8, 2022 | 12:06 PM
  #167  
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Like I mentioned you will have to do a calibration. A bit more work. You will need to measure the same (system) pressure with both meters and see if they are equal.
If not you will have to correct for that when you are taking dual readings simultaneously.

BTW, that fuel pressure gauge scale is a bit too large, you will be trying to measure two small tick marks in that. Let's see what you end up with.

Last edited by dolucasi; Apr 8, 2022 at 12:09 PM.
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Old Apr 8, 2022 | 11:35 PM
  #168  
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Need to do a bit of fiddling to get the lower attachment to fit.
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Old Apr 10, 2022 | 01:21 AM
  #169  
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Only one way to check if this works
Attached Thumbnails 2.5 16v stalling-photo219.jpg  
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Old Apr 10, 2022 | 11:00 AM
  #170  
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Yeah, getting the attachments to work for a Bosch FD is a lot of hassle. That is why the gauge I sent you is perfect. It is all plug and play.
No adjustments/modifications needed for the fittings.

All I know is putting a rubber fuel hose on a threaded attachment with a clamp will not work. It will leak.
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Old Apr 11, 2022 | 08:15 AM
  #171  
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Even if it could work it won't clear the intake manifold. More begging and borrowing tomorrow.
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Old Apr 11, 2022 | 12:11 PM
  #172  
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Just curious was the part under the rubber in that fitting photo (the shank) threaded or flat? If it was flat it would work and you can cut off the threaded part of the brass easily to give you more room.

BTW, I'm surprised the Fuel injector connections to the FD are flexible rubber in your 16V. They are all metal in 12V and 8V.

Last edited by dolucasi; Apr 12, 2022 at 10:19 PM.
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Old Apr 12, 2022 | 06:00 PM
  #173  
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It's not mine so I won't cut anything.
I managed it find another shorter adapter but the thread pitch was different so it leaked.
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Old Apr 15, 2022 | 11:14 AM
  #174  
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Looking at the fuel pressure gauge you borrowed again this morning it looks like it has the dual input with valve attachment, so as long as you can make the fittings work you are good to go!
- Cheers!
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Old Apr 15, 2022 | 10:48 PM
  #175  
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Visited 3 shops today.
None had the proper fitting.
One shop recommended taking it to possibly the last Benz dealer familiar with these older cars.
The specialist is knee deep and won't lend me his gauge. So......
My only way forward is to keep fiddling or take it to the dealer.
It has an appointment with the paint shop at the end of this month.
Going to pull and clean the CSV today.
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