Need buying advice on a 190e
(I'd post the link but I can't get it to work atm, photos below)
Now I'm assuming that this is in fact a legit 2.3-16v cosworth but correct me if I'm wrong.
First off is it worth the price, especially for the mileage? I've seen these cars go for similar prices at auction. Whats a fair price that I should aim for?
Next up when I go to look at it, what should I be on the lookout for? Rust areas?
Also what should I inquire about? Are there any particular problems that these cars have at such high milage that I should ask about? Such as the timing belt, water pump, transmission, etc.
Finally I've been doing my research but I'm still nowhere near being a guru when it comes to these cars, but I noticed that the front grill is different with a MB logo on it and it's missing the 2.3 badging on the trunk. Again correct me if I'm wrong but I haven't seen these differences on any pics I could I find on the web. Also according to a vin decoder there is suppose to be headlamp wipers which appears to be missing. Now it's advertised as all original so I'm assuming that its referring to it in a mechanical sense and not a cosmetic sense, but is there anything else that you can see that is different or concerning?
Also, of course, this dealership does not have the best reputation, and the 19,500 price tag does not include an up-to $5,000 "reconditioning" and dealership fee that is totally not hidden but just buried in the fine print where no one would think to look.




You will see the same comments from most members. If there is deferred maintenance you will spend an extra $5K-$10K on deferred maintenance. And there will be some.
So paperwork is critical. The paperwork on my car (a 2.6) is 3 inches thick from the last 34 years (200K miles). The 190's are easy to maintain but they have very many wear items that need replacing.
So it is key you repair the car yourself. Most mechanics these days do not know these cars that well any longer.
It is hard to list everything here that you should inspect for. Rust can be an issue after 36 years. Pop the molding covers at the jack points and check for rust there. That's were it starts.
Most importantly though take the car to a mechanic before purchase and have it inspected by a specialist.
The car will be worth a lot more in a manual transmission. If the auto goes bad, it should be swapped with a manual transmission.
Good luck with the inspection.....
Last edited by dolucasi; Mar 5, 2022 at 10:30 PM.
Lots of questions to ask.




Let us know how the showroom visit turns out. Since it was up north for a while, I would definitely check for rust around the jack points.
It will probably need a new O2 sensor, EHA valve, shocks absorbers, exhaust (muffler and silencer), etc, etc soon. So I would say all and all $5k should be set aside for all this and more that I did not list.
- Cheers!
Lots of questions to ask.
You will see the same comments from most members. If there is deferred maintenance you will spend an extra $5K-$10K on deferred maintenance. And there will be some.
So paperwork is critical. The paperwork on my car (a 2.6) is 3 inches thick from the last 34 years (200K miles). The 190's are easy to maintain but they have very many wear items that need replacing.
So it is key you repair the car yourself. Most mechanics these days do not know these cars that well any longer.
It is hard to list everything here that you should inspect for. Rust can be an issue after 36 years. Pop the molding covers at the jack points and check for rust there. That's were it starts.
Most importantly though take the car to a mechanic before purchase and have it inspected by a specialist.
The car will be worth a lot more in a manual transmission. If the auto goes bad, it should be swapped with a manual transmission.
Good luck with the inspection.....



