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DIY: M271 Idler & tensioner pulley

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Old Jul 23, 2011 | 03:16 PM
  #1  
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DIY: M271 Idler & tensioner pulley

Tools:
T-50 torx
T-60 torx
E-12 socket
Flathead screwdriver
Flex head
Short extension
1/2" ratchet
3/8" ratchet

Parts:
271 200 05 70 (Tensioner Pulley)
271 206 00 19 (Idler Pulley)

I've seen a few DIYs on this topic before, but none of them has pictures in it. So, here it is! BTW, I used file names as steps...enjoy at your own risk!
Attached Thumbnails DIY: M271 Idler & tensioner pulley-parts-tools.jpg   DIY: M271 Idler & tensioner pulley-step-1...unscrew-resonator-clamp.jpg   DIY: M271 Idler & tensioner pulley-step-2...unscrew-secondary-air-injector-clamp-pull-out.jpg   DIY: M271 Idler & tensioner pulley-step-3...pull-out-intercooler-hose-clip-disconnect-.jpg   DIY: M271 Idler & tensioner pulley-step-4...take-out-2-resonator-screws-e12-socket-let-drop-underpanel.jpg  

DIY: M271 Idler & tensioner pulley-step-5...release-tensioner-t60-torx-remove-belt.jpg  
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Old Jul 23, 2011 | 03:18 PM
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More steps...
Attached Thumbnails DIY: M271 Idler & tensioner pulley-step-6.1...remove-idler-pulley-e12-socket-replace-.jpg   DIY: M271 Idler & tensioner pulley-step-6.2...idler-pulley-removed.jpg   DIY: M271 Idler & tensioner pulley-step-6.3...new-idler-pulley.jpg   DIY: M271 Idler & tensioner pulley-step-7.1...remove-tensioner-pulley-t50-tamper-proof-torx-replace-.jpg   DIY: M271 Idler & tensioner pulley-step-7.2...tensioner-pulley-removed.jpg  

DIY: M271 Idler & tensioner pulley-step-7.3...new-tensioner-pulley.jpg  
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Old Jul 23, 2011 | 03:22 PM
  #3  
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Put everything back in reverse order and you're done!
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Old Jul 24, 2011 | 03:52 AM
  #4  
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Originally Posted by Utahkompressor
Put everything back in reverse order and you're done!
Thank you, for the pictures. I'm stuck at the putting the belt back on part. I'm using a 3/8 with the T60 to get it back on. But I'll try an extension 2morrow. Thank you again, I appreciate these pictures.
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Old Jul 24, 2011 | 12:43 PM
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The tool has to go under the belt...not between the belt.
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Old Jul 24, 2011 | 03:47 PM
  #6  
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Great DYI!

A couple of questions:

1. I'm assuming the tensioner keeps the belt tension at the proper level by itself and there's no adjusting or measuring the belt tension, right?

2. When you used the "T50 tamper proof torx", are you speaking of the ones with the little hole in the end for a post in the female part to go into (and not a regular torx bit)? Where did you get yours?

Thanks!
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Old Jul 25, 2011 | 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by ncmudbug
Great DYI!

A couple of questions:

1. I'm assuming the tensioner keeps the belt tension at the proper level by itself and there's no adjusting or measuring the belt tension, right?

2. When you used the "T50 tamper proof torx", are you speaking of the ones with the little hole in the end for a post in the female part to go into (and not a regular torx bit)? Where did you get yours?

Thanks!
1. Yes! There is no adjusting...the spring inside tensioner keeps the belt at proper tension.

2. Correct...one with hole, not the regular one. I got mine from ebay>>> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWNX:IT
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Old Jul 25, 2011 | 08:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Utahkompressor
1. Yes! There is no adjusting...the spring inside tensioner keeps the belt at proper tension.

2. Correct...one with hole, not the regular one. I got mine from ebay>>> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWNX:IT
Thanks, Utah! More tools to buy!

I assume the tamper proof torx bit is 6 pt. It never bothered me till I started investigating the tamper proof bits and they come in 5 and 6 pt. My other torx bits are 6 pt. so my assumption is the tamper proof ones are 6 pt, too, but I'd just like to make sure.

Last edited by ncmudbug; Jul 25, 2011 at 10:38 PM.
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Old Jul 25, 2011 | 10:04 PM
  #9  
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great DIY! thanks!

it's been added to the DIY sticky

BTW, is there a reason why you changed the pulleys? were you experiencing any odd symptoms?
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Old Jul 26, 2011 | 12:46 PM
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It's noisy...that's why I replaced the pulley!
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Old Jul 26, 2011 | 01:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Utahkompressor
It's noisy...that's why I replaced the pulley!
lol, ok! mine isn't noisy, I was hoping that it was something to do with a rough idle or something
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Old Jul 26, 2011 | 10:31 PM
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2. Correct...one with hole, not the regular one. I got mine from ebay>>> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWNX:IT
These are the 6 point variety, right?
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Old Jul 27, 2011 | 04:37 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by ncmudbug
These are the 6 point variety, right?
I don't quite understand your question...what do you mean by 6 point variety?
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Old Jul 27, 2011 | 04:42 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by nlpamg
lol, ok! mine isn't noisy, I was hoping that it was something to do with a rough idle or something
It was noisy and rough idle too...but the replacement only fix the noisy part. So, right now i think my engine & transmission mounts might be bad...and that's gonna be a lot of work to replace them
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Old Jul 27, 2011 | 10:00 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by Utahkompressor
It was noisy and rough idle too...but the replacement only fix the noisy part. So, right now i think my engine & transmission mounts might be bad...and that's gonna be a lot of work to replace them
Hey i'm just curious...
Do you get any noises when you put your AC on? If you start it when your stopped in drive, reverse or stopped at a light... I get this horrible sound coming. I'm thinking of doing this as well for my car and hopefully get rid of what feels like a sluggish start.. My rpms idle at 300 rpm... I've also had the alternator replaced the 1st week I picked it up (January 2010). It starts well, runs good for the most part.. Just I also hear a sound around the belts.

Can the pulley on altnernator just be replaced? Maybe that could be a possibility. Sorry for the bombarding in questions. I'm cleaning the TB this weekend to hopefully do it some good.
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Old Jul 27, 2011 | 10:01 PM
  #16  
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Pick up a special slim serpentine belt tensioer tool from autozone really helps. 34 bucks. It small thin design fits in the tight spots so you don't have to remove the piping from the supercharger. Makes the job a lot quicker and easier. Just you got to squeeze the belt through a tight fit. Other wise you have to take the downpipe off so it gives you more room. Its just a few bolts and its off.
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Old Jul 27, 2011 | 10:13 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Utahkompressor
I don't quite understand your question...what do you mean by 6 point variety?
It turns out there are two configurations for tamper proof torx (and I imagine plain torx): They come in a 6 pointed star and a 5 pointed start. I was looking around at tamper proof torx sets and I saw both. One place (I can't find it right now) said the 5 point was for Audi, BMW, and Mercs. Here's an example of the 5 pt. variety:http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...d=250858296654
I'm assuming from your answer that it is the 6 point we need. All the other internal wrenching torx fasteners I've seen on my car have been 6 point.
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Old Jul 28, 2011 | 12:29 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by derecklouthood
Hey i'm just curious...
Do you get any noises when you put your AC on? If you start it when your stopped in drive, reverse or stopped at a light... I get this horrible sound coming. I'm thinking of doing this as well for my car and hopefully get rid of what feels like a sluggish start.. My rpms idle at 300 rpm... I've also had the alternator replaced the 1st week I picked it up (January 2010). It starts well, runs good for the most part.. Just I also hear a sound around the belts.

Can the pulley on altnernator just be replaced? Maybe that could be a possibility. Sorry for the bombarding in questions. I'm cleaning the TB this weekend to hopefully do it some good.

Your belt tensioner pulley is weak! Time to replace. It does a loud chirping noise ? Mine had the same problem. While your at it, go ahead and change out your idle pulley too.
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Old Jul 28, 2011 | 12:33 AM
  #19  
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This is the bolt you have to get to. To replace the whole belt tensioner pulley unit.

The springs in these things gets weak. So you have to take half your engine off to even get to this one single bolt.

Thats German Engineering for ya baby!

GOOD LUCK!
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Old Jul 28, 2011 | 12:18 PM
  #20  
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so you replaced the whole tensioner and pulley? I heard you could get through it without have to remove the s/c

Yeah like it runs fine.. just i know something is wrong and whent he AC is on.. forget it... sounds like sh** metal grinding... not pleasent..

What is your rpm's at on idle in P
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Old Jul 28, 2011 | 12:22 PM
  #21  
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Can you just replace the pulley ont he Alternator though? I dont' wanna replace it again... I'm no car mechaninc, but with all the pictures.. shouldn't be too hard. I'm going to order the kit he has posted on Ebay as well.
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Old Jul 28, 2011 | 04:53 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by derecklouthood
Hey i'm just curious...
Do you get any noises when you put your AC on? If you start it when your stopped in drive, reverse or stopped at a light... I get this horrible sound coming. I'm thinking of doing this as well for my car and hopefully get rid of what feels like a sluggish start.. My rpms idle at 300 rpm... I've also had the alternator replaced the 1st week I picked it up (January 2010). It starts well, runs good for the most part.. Just I also hear a sound around the belts.

Can the pulley on altnernator just be replaced? Maybe that could be a possibility. Sorry for the bombarding in questions. I'm cleaning the TB this weekend to hopefully do it some good.
I don't get any noise when AC is on, but I got light vibration on steering wheel and seat.

300 rpm is way too low for idle...you might have a vacuum leak somewhere. I think you should check the notorious $15 PCV hose for a leak when you clean your TB.

And yes...you can buy alternator pulley seperately.
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Old Jul 28, 2011 | 04:55 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by derecklouthood
Can you just replace the pulley ont he Alternator though? I dont' wanna replace it again... I'm no car mechaninc, but with all the pictures.. shouldn't be too hard. I'm going to order the kit he has posted on Ebay as well.
Here is the link!

http://www.rmeuropean.com/Part-Numbe..._85E85BAC.aspx
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Old Jul 28, 2011 | 05:02 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by ncmudbug
It turns out there are two configurations for tamper proof torx (and I imagine plain torx): They come in a 6 pointed star and a 5 pointed start. I was looking around at tamper proof torx sets and I saw both. One place (I can't find it right now) said the 5 point was for Audi, BMW, and Mercs. Here's an example of the 5 pt. variety:http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...d=250858296654
I'm assuming from your answer that it is the 6 point we need. All the other internal wrenching torx fasteners I've seen on my car have been 6 point.
6-point is what you need...i've never seen any 5-point on MB products.
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Old Jul 28, 2011 | 11:31 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Utahkompressor
6-point is what you need...i've never seen any 5-point on MB products.
Thanks!
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