I have a 2004 S600 w/ABC. I am replacing the front right strut. The existing strut has a torn upper bushing and I am replacing it with an Arnold aftermarket strut.

My problem: I can't get the "quick" disconnect to disconnect.... I have depressurized the ABC system. I have moved the upper rubber connection cover up and out of the way.

The only guidance I've found on line is to perform the above two steps and then "pull like hell" (my interpretation). This isn't working. The upper, male, connector rotates, so it isn't frozen to the lower connector.

On the lower, female, section there is a knurled ring. Does that need to move up or down to help release the connection? It doesn't even rotate.

Any tricks or guidance?

If you want a visual, I am on step 8.0, figure E on the instruction:
http://www.arnottindustries.com/ftpManual/SK-2422RR.pdf
The mechanics thrumb and forefingers are on the knurled ring I refer to above.

Thx,
Glenn

 

Although I have NEVER tried to disconnect mine. I have worked on MANY other hydraulic systems. First you should NEVER pull like hell on them. Think about it, they are pressurized to almost 3000psi, so your effort is wasted.

Try to push IN on them while rotating the knurled ring. Or atleast this is how MOST hydraulic lines disconnect.

PS: Call ANY MB service center, and I'll bet they will tell you the procedure

Good luck

 

Thanks for the reply. I agree completely about the futility of just pulling but several posts on this topic suggest just that but that is why I am posting this string. As to your suggestions. I have tried pushing the two sides together and tried pulling the knurled ring up, down and twisting it. The ring just doesn't move in the slightest.

If someone can confirm whether or not the ring should move and if so, which way that will be of great help. Plus any other suggestions.

Also, I have resisted spraying liquid wrench on the connection, as I am worried about contamination. However, I believe the two connections should seal themselves when disconnected so perhaps I am being overly cautious. Any suggestions on this will assist also.

thx, Glenn

 

it's been a while since i've done one...but the last one i did was on s55 amg...pull the ring portion of the connector (towards the connecting line)...it will only move in one direction once it's engaged (which it is currently) as for the pressure, i've never had to depressurize the system...there is a line lock in place in case the line pops out(accidentally or purposely). the easiest way for me to explain it is it's the same as disconnecting an air hose line with quick connect...exact same procedure...if it is really stuck in there...if you can try to somewhat rotate the connecting line to break any seals that may have been formed(it won't rotate but if it's stuck you'll break the seal just by moving it without damaging anything)....i've never had one stuck together bad before though. g/l ps...pulling like hell is never a good idea...means something is stuck or not properly released.

 

I was almost convinced i had to replace both struts on my w220 s500 because everytime i went over a series of speed bumps or took a hard corner - i'd get the airmatic visit workshop[ warning followed later by "Stop car too low".

I usually tuned the engine off and restarted sometimes twice and the pump would kick in and we'd be off again.

We had alook at the top of the struts were the airline is connected and obbserved fine craks (which we initially thought were paint cracks. on closer inspection they turned out to be more than that. A former racing driver friend of mine (who sold me the car) syggested the superglue fix they used to use for odd problems. All we did was coat the top of the cracks withe the superglue and gently tested the car a day later with promising results. My mechanic put a thick coating of some resin over the top and after it cured raised the car of the ground with the hoist and lowered it back to the ground. Previously when we did this - all the air would escape from the struts and the tyres would almost touch the guard. Once started the pump would kick in and the car would be driveable. Anyway this time - hooray - this didn't happen and furthermore when i took it over the route that always caused the airmatic to fail - it passed beatifully. Also the pump was nowhere near as busy as it used to be.

Boy am I happy - the $4 superglue saved over $4000 - now all I have to do is find a replacement for my rhs mirror assembly because some of the led's have stopped working.

I post this because to thank the forum for showing me i was not alone.

Many thanks again and to the the "3ml tube of selleys quick fix supa glue"

Richard
Funkies Restaurant
Toorak Vic Australia

 

I hope you do realize that we are talking about two different suspension systems here

 

No - but i was so excited - i posted in the first place i saw.
Still ok
Regards

 

I just went through the ordeal yesterday and lived to tell but not without serious wounds. As the new owner of the 2005 S600 AMG (which has been controversially disputed), I took on the task of revitalizing the the ABC system. The parts which were listed as needing replacement were: All 4 accumulators, leveling valve, LF strut (which had been leaking all over itself and the ground under it), high pressure hose, fluid and filter. The LF strut came out easily as the oil-soaked part let go of both allen screws that hold the bottom to the lower ball joint, and the quick connect that feeds the strut. The 4 accumulators were varying degrees of pain. RF behind the wheel was easy. Unscrew old and screw in new. LF was behind the front half of the fender well cover. Not hard to get to but mounted on a free-floating bracket that won't hold still. RR is above the right muffler (front edge). The back two sets of hangers for the exhaust had to be removed to drop the pipe down to get it swapped. Dismounting was pretty easy but getting the hydraulic line off/on was slow going. LR is under the panel in front of the left rear wheel. It's also where the leveling valve and the fuel filter reside. There is a lot going on with the lines but replacing the accumulator was readily accessible. I pulled the leveling valve and instead of $1,900 for a new one, I put a new O-ring kit in it for $60. The original had 3 sets of rings on each of 4 pistons. The inside section had 3 O-rings, the middle section had 2 rings, the outside section had 1 ring. Each section gets progressively smaller so the rings are various in diameter. The kit had 1 ring for each section with plastic spacer rings for the inner and middle sections. Got it all back together, then on to the HP hose. Getting to the banjo connection was the worst part. Since one of the plans was to replace the lower control arms and the left one was already out, it made access to it possible. Inside the cavity where the front control arm mounts is a plastic cover that will push in toward the engine. With an extension an a knuckle socket, the bolt can be removed. Then is the task of feeding the new hose in as there are 2 hoses banjoed with a single bolt. Good luck getting the 2 hoses lined up with the bolt and hole in the pump (I assume). Then re-mount the U tube bracket and the end clamp. I decided to replace the RF strut because doing both myself was about the same as having one done by the shop. Plus I figured with all the other ABC issues it would be worth it. Here's where the fun escalates. The RF strut was dry but after 110k miles neither of the allen screws would budge nor would the quick-connect for the hydraulic line. The sleeve would neither slide or twist. The rubber boot on the top was intact but did not protect the connector from corrosion. As I got a new line/male end with the new strut, I chose to unscrew the the bottom or female end from the feed line as the male would allow it to turn. I removed the strut with the coupler still attached. Once out, I cut the line above the female end right above the nut. After 3 hours of soaking and working it I was able to get the sleeve to move and eventually let the female part release. The problem is that the bearings that hold the fittings get corroded and will not retract to allow extraction. Once you get the sleeve to slide, to can see the ***** in their sockets that won't budge. It's a matter of cleaning the sockets and getting the bearings freed. So, I got the struts replaced and the entire front steering/suspension parts and was ready to test for leaks. With the front wheels still off and the car on the lift, I filled the fluid and started the car. The pump immediately dropped the fluid level, so I shut it off and refilled. This time the fluid stayed ok so I ran the rodeo process a half dozen times. No leaks, all was well. When I shut the car off the reservoir over flowed out the dipstick hole. Probably a 4th of a litre. I the raised the car and put the wheels back on the front. Then I was ready to test again. Started the car and everything looked good. As soon as I hit the lift button,the RF blew fluid (guessing a couple litres) on the floor. I shut it off and raised the car. Inspection revealed that the sleeve was not quite all the way back up on the quick connect. After all the badgering it took to get the old part out the coupler was still a little sticky. The connector had come apart the the fluid spewed. I tapped the sleeve and it popped up in place to hold the connection. A minor oversight with major consequences. When I started it again, the 'car too low, do not drive' message came on and the car would not raise. The lack of fluid had blown the pump. Looks like that is my project for this weekend. Not looking forward to replacing the tandem pump.
So to summarize. the quick connects are nice but in time they can get stuck. It can take a lot of perseverance to get them apart, especially if they've been on for a while.

 

I would seriously consider that there may be an air lock that prevents the pump from building hydraulic pressure.

 

The ABC tandem pump does not self prime.

If air gets into it for any reason, you have to pressure prime the pump.
Using a suitable low pressure pump and adapter, put a few PSI air pressure in the ABC reservoir, then start the engine.
Make sure the fluid goes down, but don't let it get empty, or else do it all over again.

Quick release connectors are a nightmare.
You can't budge the release sleeves while the weight is on the wheels, as the oil is pressurised.
With the engine off and the wheel in the air (doesn't have to be all of them, because they're isolated) first try to rotate the sleeve.
It will usually be corroded and seized, but using a Mole grip, try to rotate one degree backwards and forwards, then two degrees, then three....
When it rotates all the way round, then try pushing up and down, a little at first, etc.
Whoever designed them should be shot.

BR, Nick

 

Well, this is refreshing news. All I've heard previously about pumps is that if air gets into them they blow. I will certainly try the priming trick on Saturday with fingers crossed.
Thanks for the feedback.

 

Well, I thought maybe after it sat for a week the air might purge out of the pump but no joy. So I pulled the dipstick out of the reservoir, wiped the portal off, started the car, put my mouth on the hole and blew into it like I was blowing up a balloon. I held it for about 10 seconds. Then I hit the elevate button and the car popped up like champ. I certainly recommend trying that before replacing the pump.