Frankly, I don’t think techs at academy know much about product development. They are more track guys.

Maybe engineers in Affalterbach have something to do with the process.

I’m not sure whether you have the normal SC2s on your car or the ZPs, but at the track I’ll be starting with 26 psi on the left and 25 psi on the right side; (my local track is counter-clockwise with predominantly left turns). This should get my SC2s to around 32/33 hot, which is where the ZPs ended up on my ‘15 Z06/7.

Just FYI.

Bish

Steel rotor guys need 2-piece rotor upgrade from racing brake as well as SS brake line upgrade with Castrol SRF and a more aggressive pad compound. You actually cha make steels brake harder than CCBs if you know what to do exactly, most race teams run steels and they will make your eyeballs pop out so its more an issues of components than actual brake rotor material

‘Most race teams run steels’; (it’s actually Iron btw) for one reason only, and that’s because the rules of their series mandate it to be so.

Bish

No, it's also because they are cheaper to race and last longer. They also can outperform any CCB. You have never actually been in a real race car at speed with a professional race car driver if you think otherwise.

From the factory the GTS comes with soft components meant for a luxury car. A serious brake pad with stainless steel lines and Castro SRF will eliminate 80-90% of fade (if not all of it) on a steel rotor. The 2-piece rotors are more about reducing unsprung rotational inertia making it much easier for the brakes to do their job because inertia dictates the maximum rate of accel / decal of any rotor.

1: again they aren’t “steel”, non CCM rotors are made of cast iron. If you’re going to try and educate forum members about their brakes FFS at least get the material correct;

2: 2-piece, or ‘floating’ rotors are lighter than a one piece rotor that is cast with the hat. This lighter weight actually helps handling as it reduces unsprung weight. The lighter weight per se doesn’t enhance brake performance but there are multiple other benefits to a 2-piece rotor design such as keeping heat away from the hat/hub area; allowing uniform expansion of the rotor without trying to cause distortion of the hat area; potential cost savings since you can just replace the rotor ‘ring’ when worn and re-use the hat, and so on. Negatives are initial cost and potential for increased noise for example.


Lastly: no-one here is using their GT/GTS/GTC/GTR for racing, so I can categorically tell you that the CCMs are the best type of brakes to be used on a road course with the obvious negative of increased replacement costs of the consumables. Now if AP Racing brings out one of their endurance kits for the cars like they have for the C7 Corvettes, etc. then anyone using the car a great deal would be wise to invest in them.

Bish

Sorry. Repeat post.

Replacing brake lines can introduce all sorts of new problems/issues. Rennlist had a thread where cars with high end stainless lines were spitting fittings and fluids. I believe you start with fluid and pads and go from there.

While I am a seasoned Track Day driver I am by no means an expert. I did change out the brake fluid immediately and added a set of Titanium backing plates. I left everything else stock. What I did notice was that while my pedal did eventually exhibit fade after hard use it came back quickly after cooling down. I’ve replaced lines before and it’s never ended well for me and because of that I can’t trust them anymore. I would change out pads to something harder but then I’d have to change my rotors as well. I find the stock pads worked well with the stock rotors. Only if you change everything over do you get better results. For what it’s worth most veteran track day drivers also dont use SRF either as it makes for soft pedal feel and isn’t universally compatible with a lot of newer systems. Make your brakes as heat resistant and tolerant as possible, add cooling if possible and get great rubber. Then drive it like you stole it lol

This is a great post that all HPDE ‘weekend warriors’ need to pay attention to. I had a fellow owner of a CLK BS spin the car off the track and almost wreck it due to a professionally installed SS brake line failing at high speed in a corner. Bottom line for me is this: the OEM fittings on a car like the GTR are durable and tested by the factory. The only ‘benefit’ to a SS brake line versus the OEM reinforced ‘rubber’ line is that maybe you might get a (very) slightly firmer pedal. Not worth the risks of switching out the OEM lines IMHO.

Now if you’re actually racing, in a dedicated track only car then by all means use every professional piece of equipment necessary.

I should have clarified my statement by saying up where I am and my personal experiences with SRF. Ronin I have tremendous respect for your and your ability but it’s not always a personal attack. I’ve spent almost 10 years doing track days. I agree with you regards the Motul products. But it also doesn’t always “boil” down to a few degrees either way. It also comes down to pedal feel and compatibility with cars braking systems and the type of fluid used. . I use Endless 650. I’ve used SRF and it’s not the best. Sorry. Number aren’t everything and that’s my opinion. You have yours.

in my 2014 e63, 2016 gle63s, 2017 GTS and I have 3 bottles ready to go into my 2018 e63s next week