There appears to be four different compounds from Pagid, three of which are called rotor ‘friendly’.

I’m happy with the performance of the OEM CCM pad, but I’m concerned about longevity so am certainly willing to try the next ‘track’ level of pad up from Pagid.

Just need to find a place that sells them.

Bish

I haven’t called yet Shalul. I’m trying to find out more info from Pagid re: the differing pad choices.

OG Racing sent my last set of Backing plates to Paggid after my brake job.

I was told eight weeks about three weeks ago.

Also to note; I did a 1:19 at summit on 6/9/18 in my first session back out but the car since new pads and fluids. The car proceeded to run out of brake in five laps the pedal started going to the floor. The rotors have serious transfer. If the car sits it gets moderate pedal back, as soon as heat gets back in the system,
to the floor.

I reported that it won’t brake from 160mph to 45 for turn 1 of summit main as an example, I mean what do we tell them? The pedal goes to the floor with some heat, a few back to back 100 - 20mph and the pedal is mush. Dealer cannot simulate conditions of track use and those speed legally so MB is sending out a field services support rep, given my pads just came from the AMG academy and were burnished by the MB Tech, and brakes flushed and bled from last trip.

Missing events left and right.

What brake fluid are you using? To me it looks like you need SRF. I flush the fluid for every track weekend. My car has no problem braking (steel) from 165-168 mph to 40 at turn 12 at cota or other sectors for that matter. By the way my car is on Hoosiers, so far in my third set with no problems. So far I use about a set of pads per weekend along with tires.

I have CCM’s on a leased car and we have been running Motul 660, I had MB do the last flush and bleed and they didn’t last 5 laps. Even with the dot4.1 that MB uses 5 laps to brake pedal mush tells me there might also be other issues. There is a history in another thread In which my rotors have some pad transfer. Possibly the bleed job wasn’t 100% and there was a bubble, air, or the old fluid wasn’t completely flushed.

This is in MBs court as they charge me $1300 for pads , flush and bleed and something wasn’t right.

Brian there is something seriously wrong with the brake fluid flush IMHO. You must have air, probably in the calipers as it can be a beotch to get all of it out and takes time. Mogul 660 is a good fluid, but as you know the CCMs can generate a huge amount of heat, so as V8Ray suggested, I’d only run Castrol SRF or Endless 650. You really need to demand a re-flush of the system.

My car has no issues stopping from 120 mph down to 30 mph for the ‘S’s on my local track lap after lap until the end of my HPDE run session. The brakes are just fantastic and so far I’m only ‘consuming’ about 2mm-3mm of pad per weekend. (I’ll know more later today when I pick up the car after having the street tyres put back on).

Are you running with ESC off? If not your rear brakes in particular may be working very hard many times on track when the ESC is intervening; even subtly. This could perhaps be leading to excessive heat at the rears leading to increased wear and ‘boiling’ of the brake fluid.

I hope you get this sorted ASAP, as the car is an absolute ‘weapon’ on a road course.

Bish

You drive it like me then; I have 2 red lights showing on the TC. Car super balanced that way.

I personally think going to the iron rotors would be a huge mistake since every review I’ve read states they suffer fade after a few laps of a road course.

I only have my local ‘race’ shop get the car ready for the track for me; I’d never have a brake fluid flush done by the dealership unless it’s for warranty continuation purposes.

Autoquest are the official US dealer for a Surface Transform Rotors btw. I’ll get more info this afternoon and share it with you.

Bish

Haven’t updated this thread in a long time, even though we’ve had the car to the track two times since my last post, and since it’s the end of the track season for me I thought I’d sum a couple of things up:

Cooling: the car just stays cool no matter how hard we ran it at an HPDE. A couple of weeks ago my son and I ran 18.5 20-25 minute run sessions with just one group in between the two of us. That’s pretty darn impressive for a car that went out for another session just about the time the fans hit low speed after shutting down the engine. I run in the Advanced group and my son runs in the upper intermediate group so we aren’t actually taking it easy;

Transmission: AMG made changes to the shifting algorithm of the DCT in the GT R, and it is just a superb transmission on track whether left to its own devices; (where it keeps the rpm’s between 5,000-7,000), or shifting manually. Every time on longer straights I would easily gap C7 Z06’s, and that I attribute to the speed and efficiency of the DCT. In ‘D’ mode it is always in the correct gear, all of the time;

Handling: I have always driven the car in Race mode with ESC ‘Off’ and it is a superbly balanced car. I’d recommend that any owner who is pretty comfortable driving on a road course run it in this mode only, unless the track is wet, in which case ESC ‘Sport’ will be your friend. Playing around with the TC dial to fine tune how much you’re allowed to ‘spin up’ the rear of the car is fun; I found leaving it in the default ‘5’ position, (2 red bars showing), worked perfectly for me. My son drove the car in ESC ‘Sport’; more on that below;

Tyres: the OEM SC2 tyres just really hold the car back IMHO, especially the front end, even though it’s still very rapid. Getting a second set of wheels and placing the R03 option tyres on them really makes the car shine; highly recommended. Start the pressures on either around 26 psi. Btw the OEM SC2’s are pretty crappy wet weather tyres;

Brakes: our car has the CCM’s and with Castrol SRF brake fluid the car stopped brilliantly every time, lap after lap. I still have the original OEM pads in the car, and after > 30 run sessions, the front brake pads still have > 50% of the pad material left. The rears were doing great until our last track weekend, when my son first started driving the car and drove it in ESC ‘Sport’. This of course uses the rear brakes (preferentially) to stabilise the car, and that has worn them down to around 1/3rd of the original thickness; hence I’m going to have them replaced soon along with a fluid flush; this time with Endless 650.

Well that’s enough of me boring the non-track drivers, so I’ll quit. If anyone has any further questions, just let me know.

Bish

Ambients were between 75dF-80dF; so not too hot. I did run the car in much hotter ambient temps in July and again it ran cool all day long, although that time it was just me driving it.

Engine oil never exceeded 250dF and the transmission temps never came close to the ‘red’ zone on the AMG ‘Engine Dynamic’ center display although I can’t remember the exact numbers; sorry about that.

Yep, just watch for the rear pad wear especially if you run with ESC engaged. I’m a firm believer in replacing the pads when they get down to 1/3rd thickness. I’d rather spend a little more in brake pad replacement early, versus one heck of a lot more in replacing a set or rear rotors because I allowed the pads to get too worn even if the sensor hadn’t triggered yet.

Bish