You’d be placing more ‘stress’ through the suspension components running the R7, although I doubt anything would break. Certainly everything would need to be checked often, and as Porsche mentions in the GT cars, after a certain number of track miles, replacement of certain components would be wise. The R7 is for all intents and purposes a ‘slick’, as it’s not a tyre recommended by Hoosier to ever drive on the street with.

Since you are going to be using Hoosiers, you might want to think about getting the Pagid RSC1 brake pads instead of the OEMs. Talk to John Gaydos at Autoquest. He can get them.

And you’re right about SRF; there’s nothing better.
Bish

This is what I have and no issues so far;
hoosier R7
cobalt race pads
stock rotors
SRF fluid

I don’t have to manage my brakes, actually I brake super deep/late in most of the corners at COTA and some of those are downhill.

My brakes are transformed with cobalt pads.

http://www.pagidracing.com/en/produc...s/vehicle.html

John Gaydos at Autoquest mentioned to me iirc that the RSC1 is the compound many use on the Porsche PCCBs, so I was going to buy a set. However, until my son started driving the car with me at the last track weekend, the wear rate on the OEM pads was excellent so I just purchased a second set of OEMs to have as a back-up. An excellent price btw of about $600 for both front and rear OEM pads. I have always driven the car with ESP totally ‘Off’, hence there was no increased rear brake pad wear, but with my son driving I make him keep the ESP set to ‘Sport’, so now the rears have worn down to approximately 33% of pad left. I’m having them replaced next Spring. I’m also old enough now that I’m a firm be.iever in ‘smooth equals fast’, so I’m fairly easy on my brakes.

Re: brake fluid. Have you ever tried Endless 650?

Bish

Sorry already edited. Iron disk. No shims yet. So far I don have any understeer, maybe the wider front track helps (295)

Agreed you’re not going to screw anything up; certainly not with just a couple of track weekends a year on the GT R.

The A7 is known to be ‘quicker’ than the R7, but it wears much quicker, yes?

So I use a fantastic independent shop for all of the non-warranty maintenance on all of our vehicles. The guys that own/run it are ex-SCCA racers and only use top-of-the-line Hunter equipment, so I had them check the factory alignment before I took the car out on track for the first time last year. I was pleasantly surprised to find out that front camber from the factory was about -2.2 and rear was about -1.8. They were happy with caster and toe also. I’ve been really happy with tyre wear both on the street, but especially on the track, so I haven’t gone more aggressive; yet. One good thing about our cars is that they use shims to set the alignment and once it’s set, it shouldn’t move, or so I’ve been told. It does of course take longer to adjust though.

Bish

Ronac, they simply ‘destroy’ the OEM Sport Cup 2’s in the handling and traction dept. IMHO. Driving as you do in the canyons I think you’d see a major difference. Obviously as RFT’s they have less compliance on broken up highway, but the ride is still ‘OK’ even in my GT R. On crappy roads when driving to/from the track I’ll leave the car in ‘C’ mode of course. On the positive side if you get a flat you aren’t stranded as these can be driven 50 miles without air in them iirc. They will not last as long obviously and I’m not able to tell you how many street miles to expect out of them as I always use them for the track mounted on a set of Signature forged wheels, but their treadwear is listed as 180. Oh and their wet weather performance is marginal due to the decreased tread depth and compound difference:

https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires...oModClar=Coupe

That being said you get a bigger ‘footprint’ and a stickier compound than the ‘regular’ SC2s. The above link is to the GT R option tyre (R03) which is the tyre Michelin specifically designed for the Chevy C7 Z06/7. I’m not sure of other sizes if the above won’t fit your car btw.

Bish

That is because of the wider tyre you’re running. Understeer is a problem, (that may/may not be helped by more front negative camber), when running the OEM Sport Cup 2. At least in my experience.

Bish