stephen4785

I searched threw a few posts and didnt find what I needed to know. Iv got an amp and sub that I want to install in the trunk. I know how to run everything else but dont know what kind of adapter Ill need to convert the signal at the stock sub to the pre-outs on my amp.Anyone got any ideas?
Iv read that the sub works on fiberoptics so youve got to get a speacial adapter but Im not sure if theres any truth to it. Also if I do need a speacial adapter where can I buy one?
Thx

StillKickin

You can get a Hi-Lo converter and run that from your speakers to your sub-amp. Thats what I was told to do with mine.

stephen4785

Which one would sound cleaner a 4 channel or 2 channel? Aslo do I have to run a siganl from the other speakers and not the signal from the stock sub's amp signal?

Capt Nemo o2

I would say that if you already have a sub, than use the signal going to that, this way you get only the frequencies meant for the sub in the stock system. If you are only putting in a sub, get a mono amp or a 2 channel amp, anything else is a waste of money and space.

stephen4785

So is there any truth to it being a fiber optic signal @ the sub amp?

StillKickin

I dont know about the fiber-optics...i dont have the stock sub...it shouldnt be tho...no sub i know takes that kind of digital input...if its the amp that the fiber optics go to...i dont think you can do anything but the Hi-Lo...the subs usually take two plain wires which theoritically you can splice into, but then youll only have as much power as the stock amp, however, if you want no trouble with your warranty the best way to go i know is the Hi-Lo converter...in regards to amps...get a mono amp if you can because those are made to power the sub only....u can get a two channel amp...whoever installs it will have to bridge it to get the full power out of it...your best bet is to go to your nearest high-end car audio installers and have them check it out....installs usually run about 140-180 if you want them to do everything...DO NOT go to chain electronic stores and make sure they tell you what guages power cable theyll use and whether or not ull need capacitors

stephen4785

Iv heard that the signal the amp get is a fiber optic signal. I know the sub itself has wires going to it. Im pretty competent I can install it myself. Iv installed alot of subs/amps/speakers on many different cars/trucks. Im also an ASE certified tech(5 auto-3 heavy truck) and have worked on cars for 10 years. Im good with electronics and know that if it can be done I can do it.
Thanks

vraa

If I remember right, head unit to amp, or whatever to amp is fiber optic. Amp to speakers though is copper.

You can use a low line level converter from your sub out to your new amp in. That should work fine.

DACHIGGA

Anyways, the wires from the amp to the sub, must be analog, there is no such thing as fibre optics that go from the amp to an analog device like a speaker.

electromethod

FYI... the cable that goes to sub is looped off of the rear speaker line. If I remember correctly it was a brown wire...... I added subs to stock system 2 years ago so I might be wrong. I have since gotten rid of the stock. A lot of amps have both HI level and low level inputs. Do you know what subs you are going to put in? What type of enclosure? All that is pertinent data when figuring out whether or not you should get an AB or D amp. Let us know........

stephen4785

Ive got a 10in sub in a bandpass box.Its www.toby.com. Hes a local guy that makes bad *** speakers for cheap. And Iv got a 100 watt Kenwood amp.I had the setup in my Firebird and got lots of coments i.e. "Theres no way thats a 10". But the firebird didnt have atrunk so I was thinking about installing a tube into the trunk instead of the stock amp.Its nothing fancy but the box doesnt take up much room and I like the way the combo sounds.Thanks

stephen4785

Please re-read my post. I did not imply that the speakers had a fiber optic signal.

JohnCL

This is a real easy process. Like mentioned above you need a line level converter to convert the copper speaker cable to RCA to go to your amp. If you are just doing a sub there is no need for a 4 channel amp, I would get a nice mono amp and call it done. The converter should be less than $30 and it should not take long to install.

zishan03

Thats what I have in my car but the only problem is that you cant have the bass on from your stereo becuase you might "clip" the amp which basically means blow it I think, so you have to keep bass on your audio 10 or whatever you have at somewhere between 0 and 3, you can put it higher but its a risk.

Zishan

electromethod

First of all, the reason it's loud is the bandpass enclosure. I have never been a fan of bandpass enclosures but they are incredibly efficient for the "boom." As long as you are happy with it then that is all that matters. btw... when you finally decide to upgrade the stock HU, then pm JOHNCL... he knows how to take apart the dash in his sleep .

Zishan:
Before I put the HU in, all I had tapped into stock system were the 2 10's in a sealed enclosure in trunk. I had the bass around -3 because anything higher and the speakers would start distorting. At least I think the stock HU was crap for any setting higher. If you find the need to turn the bass up on your stock HU then I would suggest that there is something wrong with your setup/gear. What are you running?

W0n6_3d4n

Stock HU are rubbish, on the other hand i think u can convert the stock HU with RCA output. Set your gain properly and you shouldn't clip your amp, clipping will burn the VC on your sub and will damage your amp in the long run, not to mention when clip happen it sounds terrible.

DACHIGGA

there's always gain you can adjust on the Line-level adaptor.

And the HUs aren't that bad, it's just the bulit in amp chip, if you want to, than be like me, bypass the chip altogether, make youself a preamp and I think that's the best way to go if you want steering wheel controls.

zishan03

Its not so much that I need to adjust the bass at the front but the stock system has fairly good base, but due to the danger of clipping the amp I cant turn it up. I have a seperate adjuster for the sub so I can adjust the bass all I want, the only problem is that I dont like the only bass coming from the boot if you get what I mean?

Zishan

artur023

ive always wanted to put a sub in the back and replace the one i have......seems WAY WAY WAY WAY too involved and i d think my original head unit (not command) will be able to power a W7 speak like i would get =( im gonna STFF see wha i can pull up

zishan03

Here are some pictures to show my set up. Sorry the pictures are a bit big.

Zishan

First, this is two pictures of the remote in the cup holder bit, we had to remove the thing that looked like a lipstick holder so i could still use it as a cup holder.




Then here is two shots of the Kicker KX400 Amp and L7 Sub.

W0n6_3d4n

L7 pound like no tommorow, nice sub.

StillKickin

i have a kicker in the trunk waitin to be installed...10" L7...its a hand-me-down and the guy also gave me a MTX Thunder 546 amp...its 4-channel and something like 580 watts in total...is that enough for the kicker....cuz when i tested the speaker i had it hooked up to my friends JBL that was closer to 800 watts (i dont know exactly) and it sounded very proper

DACHIGGA

Just curious, how does that sub stay in place BTW?

PsssTkiD

wut do u mean chain electronics??>. like circuit city , bestbuy??

Justinius7

did everyone run new wires or has anyone tapped out of the blank spot in the fuse box? I read on this forum people were considering taking out of the 15amp blank and running that way... My concern is, what guage wire runs from the battery to the boot?