Hard time getting rims off
05-22-2006, 05:07 PM
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08' BMW E92 Coupe
Hard time getting rims off
I can't get my stock rims off my car for crap! I've even sprayed WD40 around the space where the rim meets the brake and spun it around for awhile and let it sit. Still wouldn't come off. Then I put back 3 bolts and left them kinda loose. Dropped the car and rocked it back and forth as hard as I could. Jack it back up, nothing. kicked the crap out of the tire, nothing. How the frig can I get these off??? Tried both the driver and passenger front rim. Got a silver G2 caliper paint kit that I wanna do on my calipers. Any help or advice is appreciated.
05-22-2006, 05:44 PM
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2004 C32 ///AMG
i had the same problem.
its just old brake dust that seals them so tight.
just take to your local tire shop and they will take all four off for less than $20. then, put them back on and slowly drive home.
its just old brake dust that seals them so tight.
just take to your local tire shop and they will take all four off for less than $20. then, put them back on and slowly drive home.
05-22-2006, 05:53 PM
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Mercedes is gone physically, but still in my heart.
I'd have to agree with Rlee. Also, to avoid this problem in the future, I'd recommend getting a set of winter tires/wheels just so you have the set for the snow and crappy weather, then you can take them off before anything rusts and put on your summer wheels. It's worked for me, 
05-22-2006, 06:00 PM
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05 C55
i just replaced my stock SS rims and struggled myself. but eventually i got them off. how hard are you kicking it? i gave it a good 15 min beating before it finally came off. try with your back to it and kick backwards on the bottom of the wheel then rotate it so the top is at the bottom now and kick again.
good luck.
good luck.
05-22-2006, 06:01 PM
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2007 C280 4matic
I've had the same porblem with cars before. just get a BIG hammer and hit it from the back side should work like a charm. always works for me and its what they will do at a tire shop.
05-22-2006, 06:11 PM
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Dia Blk '06 C230 w/3 pedals
get one of those old school cross shaped tire irons from Track Aut..err...Advantage..ummm..whateverthehell they call the place now. The bigger the better
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05-22-2006, 06:20 PM
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2004 C32 ///AMG
Originally Posted by anonymouse
get one of those old school cross shaped tire irons from Track Aut..err...Advantage..ummm..whateverthehell they call the place now. The bigger the better
but i do have one of those cross tire irons. lot easier than that stock piece of crap!
05-22-2006, 07:47 PM
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C55 ///AMG, 535xi
Originally Posted by WaveyKat
just kick them real hard they will come off thats what i did lol..
wavey, MBNY, lol today, C230_05 and I had to remove his brabus Monoblocks, and they were a pain in the Asssss!, One bolt, I put the tireiron on it, and i stepped ontop of the iron, it didnt even MOVE!, we kicked the crap outa the tire lol
05-22-2006, 08:51 PM
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08' BMW E92 Coupe
i actually didn't mention that i do have a huge rubber mallet and did try that as well. i literally kicked the crap of the tires to get them the budge. i'm not gonna lie, my toe is alittle sore right now, lol. i kicked them so hard that a few times i thought the car was gonna slide off the stands. i used to take the my bmw rims off every 3 months or so and wash the back of them, think i'll do that with the benz once i finally get these suckers off car has 16k miles and these puppies are stuck on there good. thanks for the replies!
car has 16k miles and these puppies are stuck on there good. thanks for the replies!
05-22-2006, 09:36 PM
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My theory is that the dissimilar metals, the steel hub against the alloy wheels makes them bond. When I do brakes for the first time or change wheels I put some anti-seize compound on the hub to prevent it from sticking next time but the first time is always a bear.
05-22-2006, 10:37 PM
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2005 C Wagon (No snickering please!)
I would spray some penetrating oil on the rear of the wheel where it goes into the disk hub, and spray some into the holes between the lug bolt holes. Then tap the wheel with a piece of wood to vibrate it a bit. When you do get them off, clean the hub area with a wire brush and emery cloth to remove all rust and corrosion. Clean and smooth is the way to go. Then take the wheels off every 6000 miles and do it again.
Inspect the lug bolts carefully, they should be clean and not greasy in the crescent area. There should be no nicks in the zinc coating, nor damaged threads. Any bolt with those problems should be replaced. Mercedes says the bolt could shear off. If the replacement is not exactly the same as that being replaced, consider replacing all five because even with the same 81 ft-lb torque on them, the pressure on the brake disk might be different causing the wheel to wobble.
I use a copper based anti-sieze compound on the tips of the threads, but nowhere else. Placing any material, grease, anti-sieze, or Pam cooking spray on the hub is discouraged by Mercedes because it might interfere with the wheel centering, and/or laterial seating of the wheel. I was in Buellwinkle's (a very bright fellow) frame of mind and put some anti-sieze on a wheel that had been stuck. A machinist got out a dial indicator and we measured the laterial and radial runout. It was waaaaay more than specification. I assumed we needed a new wheel, but the machinist told me to clean that (expletive deleted) off the wheel and rotor. When the wheel was replaced the runout was well within specification. I figured the stuff would just squish and fill in the nooks and cranies, but it made difference we could measure.
Inspect the lug bolts carefully, they should be clean and not greasy in the crescent area. There should be no nicks in the zinc coating, nor damaged threads. Any bolt with those problems should be replaced. Mercedes says the bolt could shear off. If the replacement is not exactly the same as that being replaced, consider replacing all five because even with the same 81 ft-lb torque on them, the pressure on the brake disk might be different causing the wheel to wobble.
I use a copper based anti-sieze compound on the tips of the threads, but nowhere else. Placing any material, grease, anti-sieze, or Pam cooking spray on the hub is discouraged by Mercedes because it might interfere with the wheel centering, and/or laterial seating of the wheel. I was in Buellwinkle's (a very bright fellow) frame of mind and put some anti-sieze on a wheel that had been stuck. A machinist got out a dial indicator and we measured the laterial and radial runout. It was waaaaay more than specification. I assumed we needed a new wheel, but the machinist told me to clean that (expletive deleted) off the wheel and rotor. When the wheel was replaced the runout was well within specification. I figured the stuff would just squish and fill in the nooks and cranies, but it made difference we could measure.
05-26-2006, 08:48 PM
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05' C230K Sport Sedan
Originally Posted by Moviela
I would spray some penetrating oil on the rear of the wheel where it goes into the disk hub, and spray some into the holes between the lug bolt holes. Then tap the wheel with a piece of wood to vibrate it a bit. When you do get them off, clean the hub area with a wire brush and emery cloth to remove all rust and corrosion. Clean and smooth is the way to go. Then take the wheels off every 6000 miles and do it again.
Inspect the lug bolts carefully, they should be clean and not greasy in the crescent area. There should be no nicks in the zinc coating, nor damaged threads. Any bolt with those problems should be replaced. Mercedes says the bolt could shear off. If the replacement is not exactly the same as that being replaced, consider replacing all five because even with the same 81 ft-lb torque on them, the pressure on the brake disk might be different causing the wheel to wobble.
I use a copper based anti-sieze compound on the tips of the threads, but nowhere else. Placing any material, grease, anti-sieze, or Pam cooking spray on the hub is discouraged by Mercedes because it might interfere with the wheel centering, and/or laterial seating of the wheel. I was in Buellwinkle's (a very bright fellow) frame of mind and put some anti-sieze on a wheel that had been stuck. A machinist got out a dial indicator and we measured the laterial and radial runout. It was waaaaay more than specification. I assumed we needed a new wheel, but the machinist told me to clean that (expletive deleted) off the wheel and rotor. When the wheel was replaced the runout was well within specification. I figured the stuff would just squish and fill in the nooks and cranies, but it made difference we could measure.
Inspect the lug bolts carefully, they should be clean and not greasy in the crescent area. There should be no nicks in the zinc coating, nor damaged threads. Any bolt with those problems should be replaced. Mercedes says the bolt could shear off. If the replacement is not exactly the same as that being replaced, consider replacing all five because even with the same 81 ft-lb torque on them, the pressure on the brake disk might be different causing the wheel to wobble.
I use a copper based anti-sieze compound on the tips of the threads, but nowhere else. Placing any material, grease, anti-sieze, or Pam cooking spray on the hub is discouraged by Mercedes because it might interfere with the wheel centering, and/or laterial seating of the wheel. I was in Buellwinkle's (a very bright fellow) frame of mind and put some anti-sieze on a wheel that had been stuck. A machinist got out a dial indicator and we measured the laterial and radial runout. It was waaaaay more than specification. I assumed we needed a new wheel, but the machinist told me to clean that (expletive deleted) off the wheel and rotor. When the wheel was replaced the runout was well within specification. I figured the stuff would just squish and fill in the nooks and cranies, but it made difference we could measure.
05-27-2006, 04:03 AM
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is SOLD
its the rust on the rotors, and yes the wooden malet will do the trick as long as someone else is holding the wheels on one side and another hitting it from the inside. on the tire only of course.
