Could be pad wear. Try a different mechanic?
Brake pads Change with no warning light..HELP!!!
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Joined: Aug 2006
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From: United Kingdom
Nov 04 W203
Brake pads Change with no warning light..HELP!!!
I just sent my car in bec it was making a grinding noise when you apply the brake..had it before and found it was a little stone which was causing it..this time, the gu says i need to change the front and rear pads because they are worn..if that is the case, wont the brake wear light come in..if there is one in the w203..
the mileage is 29500 miles..is it too early for pad changing or really over due..
Not sure how long pads are meant to last..
PLEASE HELP.!!..hate to spend for something i really dont have too..
the mileage is 29500 miles..is it too early for pad changing or really over due..
Not sure how long pads are meant to last..
PLEASE HELP.!!..hate to spend for something i really dont have too..
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C230K Coupe/Orion/C4/C5/CD/AMG Spoiler/V60/TeleAid, 2 MGB's
I think I changed out my pads at about 42k. If I recall correctly, the sensor trips at 1/8th inch remaining. If you brake a lot (stop and go traffic?), yours may have worn faster.
Tell the mechanic to show you the diagnostics that say the sensor was triggered. If he can't...or won't.... respond by asking if the brakes wore out early because they are defective. Then ask them to replace the pads under warranty. If the service manager balks at that, ask to speak to the general manager.
Tell the mechanic to show you the diagnostics that say the sensor was triggered. If he can't...or won't.... respond by asking if the brakes wore out early because they are defective. Then ask them to replace the pads under warranty. If the service manager balks at that, ask to speak to the general manager.
Last edited by Rick; Mar 28, 2007 at 05:58 PM.
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If you don't know how to check the pad thickness you will always be at the mercy of the mechanic. How far someone else drives on a set of pads is irrelevant. The pad wear sensors are not on all the pads so you could have one pad dangerously worn without tripping a sensor. Or they could just be scamming you. They make good bucks on pad and rotor changes because it's quick and easy. Look at a set of new pads so you'll know what to look for. You can usually check front outside pads without even removing the wheel.
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My car just broke 30K miles and my pads are about 1/2 worn on my 2004. The pad sensor is on one wheel so theoretically it's possible that the non-sensor side is worn more but unlikely. You can check pad where by looking in between the spokes of the wheel but keep in mind, the inside pad wears quicker than the outside pad on the cheaper single and dual piston brakes (if you have the 2004.5 4 piston brakes then it should wear evenly). Rear brakes on these cars lasts at least twice as long as the fronts. My dealer said I needed new rear brakes on my kid's SLK230, they had 1/2" of pad left or about 80% of brand new left. It's just a quick money maker for them, don't get sucked in, wait for the dash warning light.
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Nov 04 W203
thanks guys..that is a big help..I will be very cautious..will ask for the diagnostic report which shows it..then go from there..
question also arises..why is it when i brake, you get a grinding "whoo..whoo" noise..what is the possible cause of that if it is not brake wear..
question also arises..why is it when i brake, you get a grinding "whoo..whoo" noise..what is the possible cause of that if it is not brake wear..
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If your brakes have a pulsating feel or noise it's because the rotors are warped. If it's not to the point where you can feel it in your steering wheel or pulsing the car as it stops it's no big deal. If it bothers you, buy some new rotors or take them to a auto machine shop that can turn them (some Kragens or Napa Auto Parts).
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Nov 04 W203
do i need to go on another holiday and come back and maybe the noise might go away..just kidding.!!.
i might check this with another mechanic to get a few opinions..just got this strange feeling my wallet is going to be lighter pretty soon..
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sorry about the whoo whoo..only way to actually describe it..this noise also normally happens when i go on holiday and leave the car parked for a long time..and during the first couple of miles when i drive it again, it makes the same sound..prior, i was told it was due to dust on the disc and as i brake for the few miles, it will go away..and it has untill now..
do i need to go on another holiday and come back and maybe the noise might go away..just kidding.!!.
i might check this with another mechanic to get a few opinions..just got this strange feeling my wallet is going to be lighter pretty soon..
do i need to go on another holiday and come back and maybe the noise might go away..just kidding.!!.
i might check this with another mechanic to get a few opinions..just got this strange feeling my wallet is going to be lighter pretty soon..
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Nov 04 W203
do you think mercedes service guys will remove and check and refit again..clean up whatever dust particle if it is there..under warranty repair..since the whiring sound has not gone yet..
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Rotors are made of steel, and after a bit of holiday they might take on a bit of rust. A few miles of driving should lap the rust off. The rotors sould be somewhat shiney. The particulate dust from the pads does not need to be removed for any reason other than esthetics. I typically remove the dust from the wheel surfaces weekly, and using perchlor clean the calipers when changing pads. This is to get a good visual look at the components checking for defects and damage.
The pads themselves will be servicable down to about 3mm. Even at that point there is no need to rush to the workshop. A few weeks would not be an unreasonable delay.
In the past rotors were expensive, hard, and had a bit more "meat" on them. It was possible to machine the rotors flat a couple of times for smooth braking. Truth was that workshop refinishing equipment was it is not very precise, and the situation often went from bad to worse.
Now rotors are softer, designed to be sacraficial, and usually wear to being too thin to need workshop machining. The good news is that price of a rotor has dropped from 200 down to 50 quid. (plus VAT, the *******s!)
I find with German marques that the rotors are useful for two sets of pads, and then need replacement because they are near the minium thickness.
It is quite easy to change the brake components. If you know which part of a spanner is for your hand, it should be easy to do it yourself.
The pads themselves will be servicable down to about 3mm. Even at that point there is no need to rush to the workshop. A few weeks would not be an unreasonable delay.
In the past rotors were expensive, hard, and had a bit more "meat" on them. It was possible to machine the rotors flat a couple of times for smooth braking. Truth was that workshop refinishing equipment was it is not very precise, and the situation often went from bad to worse.
Now rotors are softer, designed to be sacraficial, and usually wear to being too thin to need workshop machining. The good news is that price of a rotor has dropped from 200 down to 50 quid. (plus VAT, the *******s!)
I find with German marques that the rotors are useful for two sets of pads, and then need replacement because they are near the minium thickness.
It is quite easy to change the brake components. If you know which part of a spanner is for your hand, it should be easy to do it yourself.
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I would recommend you change your brake pads before the "Brake Wear" light comes on. Doing so you have a less chance of having to change the rotors. As the materials on the brake pads get too worned down it has the potential to warp the rotor. When the brake pads has 1/8th inch remaining it's time for a replacement.
Plus, we all drive differently and in different settings. I'm always on the stop and go traffic...DAMN S. CALIFORNIA! My "Brake Wear" light comes on at around 21-22k miles. Hope that helps.
Plus, we all drive differently and in different settings. I'm always on the stop and go traffic...DAMN S. CALIFORNIA! My "Brake Wear" light comes on at around 21-22k miles. Hope that helps.
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Not from those pics, you need a picture straight from the top of the caliper looking down. You need to see the thickness of the pad material edge. A pad is made up of two pieces, the thick metal backing plate, about 1/8" thick metal. Attached to the face of the backing plate and touching the rotor is the pad material. You can see the outside pad with the wheel on but to see the inner pad you need to remove the wheel and look in the pad inspection hole which is on top of the caliper. Unless you are replacing the pad because you don't like the pad, ie. it gives off too much dust, then wait for the sensor to go off. No additional damage will be done to your rotor because you waited and even then so what, rotors are cheap and I usually replace them when I do pads. I just ordered rear rotors for my kid's SLK, made in Germany, $34 each, free shipping, no sales tax. It would cost me $15 each to get them turned and then wait an hour while they do it and they are still rusting and dirty. Not worth the hassle and my time.
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It's very doubtful you need rear pads.
VERY doubtful.
Front pads is much more likely.
If you wait till the light comes on, you'll have about 1000 miles to
get it done.
But don't wait till it's at the metal.
VERY doubtful.
Front pads is much more likely.
If you wait till the light comes on, you'll have about 1000 miles to
get it done.
But don't wait till it's at the metal.
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2005 C55, 1988 260E, 2000 Chevrolet Silverado
I don't know about Mercedes, but on my truck the ceramic pads ate the rotors and then caused them to warp. Not a real fan. But that was on my truck. They felt like they where grinding from day one. That was with new rotors and pads from the start.
