C-Class (W203) 2001-2007, C160, C180, C200, C220, C230, C240, C270, C280, C300, C320, C230K, C350, Coupe

More LED Lamps

Old Oct 27, 2002 | 01:53 AM
  #1  
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C230K
More LED Lamps

Gonna replace the turn signals with these:

http://www.datasheets.led.net/traffi...htm#automotive

http://www.gm-trucks.com/ART_LED.shtml




http://www.led.net/datasheets/Pages/...ls/testim4.htm
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Old Oct 27, 2002 | 03:10 AM
  #2  
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how much?

dude how much are those? Is it 45 bucks a piece?
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Old Oct 27, 2002 | 03:19 AM
  #3  
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2002 C230 Coupe Black/Charcoal C5 C7 Auto
I heard that LEDs do not draw enough current and throws a bulb out error on computer. Can you let us know how your's go? I've been wanting to use LEDs for city light but wanted to make sure. Thanks.
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Old Oct 27, 2002 | 04:38 AM
  #4  
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Hmmm Tberry. I hadn't considered that.

I think that they would indeed trigger an error on the computer.

The paramaters they have for that system are real loose. I know I used to get a windshield water out error and coolent error off and on at the exact time and they replaced the sensors.

Then when I had my brake pad sensor disconeceted for awhile after getting porterfield pads, I started to get a front right turn signal lamp out error. And indeed that signal wasn't blinking.

But everytime I checked the bulb and removed it it was ok.

Then it would work again.

But after I re-installed the brake pad sensor, which happens to be on the same wheel as the blinker, never had another computer error.

Might have to solder a resistor accross the leads. Wouldn't affect the LEDs at all.

But will let you know.

And yes they are 41 bucks a set.

Expensive, I know. But they will last forever (so what)

and they turn on and off in nanoseconds compared to incandesents milliseconds.

Like the LED arrays you see on the back of semi trailors and on buses, here in LA at least.

Notice how fast they light and ignite?

;-)

Last edited by todd; Oct 27, 2002 at 04:42 AM.
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Old Oct 27, 2002 | 04:15 PM
  #5  
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C230 K
pics

post pics as soon as you install it ok?
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Old Oct 27, 2002 | 04:19 PM
  #6  
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It might work, and it might not. Since the led's have a certain amount of watts that it draws, and the computer knows it. So if the LED's draw to much power, or to little power. It will show an error.

Im thinking if a error shows up, you can probably take it to the dealer, and maybe there is a setting that can be changed. Just like the HID's
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Old Oct 27, 2002 | 05:00 PM
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todd, this thread may be of interest.
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Old Oct 27, 2002 | 05:31 PM
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i read somewhere there was something you had to put in place with the LED bulbs in order to increase the volatge or somehting along those lines so it wouldnt trip a false fault from the computer. ill see if i can find the thread and post a link!
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Old Oct 27, 2002 | 05:35 PM
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yes you simply need to measure the resistance of a regular light bulb and then measure the resistance of the led. you would then need to add a reisitor that matched this figure. the problem now is if you add a resistor then the led will not be bright enough. the computer measures resistance
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Old Oct 27, 2002 | 07:35 PM
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Originally posted by nov0798
yes you simply need to measure the resistance of a regular light bulb and then measure the resistance of the led. you would then need to add a reisitor that matched this figure. the problem now is if you add a resistor then the led will not be bright enough. the computer measures resistance
Wrong. The LED bulb has higher resistance than the stock bulb, so in order to fool the computer you have to install another resistor *in parallel*- not in series- to reduce the overall resistance, not the other way around. The voltage applied to the LED unit will stay the same, so its brightness won't be affected.

Assuming that the voltage is 12 Volts and the stock incandescent bulb is rated at 27W, its resistance is 12*12/27 = 5.3 Ohms.

The LED bulb draws 160 mA at 12 Volts, which gives us 12/.16 = 75 Ohms (quite a difference! Note: you can't measure its resistance with a multimeter, as they usually are powered by a single 1.5 V battery. This voltage is not high enough to open the LEDs - they are diodes that open up at certain voltage applied to their terminals, and if the unit is designed to work at 12 V, that's the voltage needed to measure its resistance.)

Based on this, the new resistor is supposed to be R = 1/(1/5.3 - 1/75) = 5.74 Ohms. This resistor is supposed to be rated at 12*12/5.74 = 25 W. It'd better have a good heat sink! Like those that came with LED bulbs I ordered a couple of months ago (sorry, forgot the name of the website):

resistor

(They are actually 6 Ohm, rated at 50 W - a little overkill, but they sure won't melt)

Last edited by vadim; Oct 29, 2002 at 01:03 AM.
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Old Oct 27, 2002 | 08:16 PM
  #11  
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so if you put them in place parallel to the bulbs, where do you actually place it?
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Old Oct 27, 2002 | 08:20 PM
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Originally posted by CitronC230K_03
so if you put them in place parallel to the bulbs, where do you actually place it?
Wherever you find enough room in the vicinity of the rear light cluster, keeping in mind that they may get very hot.
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Old Oct 27, 2002 | 08:22 PM
  #13  
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so do you want to place them in parallel with the 2 lights then? in this case the left and right rear turning indicators.
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Old Oct 27, 2002 | 10:06 PM
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Originally posted by CitronC230K_03
so do you want to place them in parallel with the 2 lights then? in this case the left and right rear turning indicators.
Of course, you need 2 - one per indicator.
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Old Oct 28, 2002 | 01:00 PM
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Thanks to the link to that other thread Lynnn, very informative.

I think the arrays sold at that other site are just like the ones a Pep Boys etc.

The ones from LEDtronics are a little brighter hopefully. They seem to have alot more experience with them as they make industrial apps like traffic lights and street lights.
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Old Oct 28, 2002 | 02:30 PM
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i see. i wasnt clear when it was stated in parrallel. i understand now! thanks!
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Old Oct 29, 2002 | 12:44 AM
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You need a Load Equalizer for LED bulbs....

Because the current draw is so low with LED replacement bulbs, a Load Equalizer is required for each turn signal LED Bulb, and is required for all LED bulbs on Mercedes and other cars with a "Bulb Out" sensing system. Load Equalizers are easily installed with quick connectors which are supplied. Theses are $5 at http://www.formymercedes.com/mb_resu...lacement+Bulbs
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Old Oct 29, 2002 | 12:45 AM
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thanx 4 the info
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Old Oct 29, 2002 | 12:51 AM
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Re: You need a Load Equalizer for LED bulbs....

Originally posted by jhillman
Because the current draw is so low with LED replacement bulbs, a Load Equalizer is required for each turn signal LED Bulb, and is required for all LED bulbs on Mercedes and other cars with a "Bulb Out" sensing system. Load Equalizers are easily installed with quick connectors which are supplied. Theses are $5 at http://www.formymercedes.com/mb_resu...lacement+Bulbs
is that connector universal? (i.e will it work for turn signal bulbs as well as wedge bulbs such as city lights?) how plug&play are these load equalizer? thanks.
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Old Oct 29, 2002 | 12:58 AM
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Re: Re: You need a Load Equalizer for LED bulbs....

Originally posted by tberry
is that connector universal? (i.e will it work for turn signal bulbs as well as wedge bulbs such as city lights?) how plug&play are these load equalizer? thanks.
They are not "plug&play", but "cut&paste" :p Read this thread at least a page back, it's all described in detail. They are just resistors - how much more universal can they be?

Last edited by vadim; Oct 29, 2002 at 01:01 AM.
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Old Oct 29, 2002 | 01:01 AM
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I gotta say that I have a problem with this whole 'load equalization' mode.

I would rather disable the sensing in the computer.

I don't like the idea of making all that heat. Just shorting out, though moderatly, a circuit. Not a big deal, but...

But.... what I really really really want is that program MB runs on the laptop.

I will pay $$$ to anyone who can provide it.

I could have hours and hours of fun with that ;-)
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Old Oct 29, 2002 | 01:11 AM
  #22  
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Originally posted by todd
I gotta say that I have a problem with this whole 'load equalization' mode.

I would rather disable the sensing in the computer.

I don't like the idea of making all that heat. Just shorting out, though moderatly, a circuit. Not a big deal, but...

But.... what I really really really want is that program MB runs on the laptop.

I will pay $$$ to anyone who can provide it.

I could have hours and hours of fun with that ;-)
You are not going to make it do anything a stock bulb doesn't. Except, the bulb generates all the heat inside the light assembly - between the reflector and the lens, whereas the bypass resistor slowly heats the cavity where it is located. Attached to a metal part (such as the trunk floor or a rear quater panel, or what have you), it will stay cool enough as most of the heat will be absorbed by the much heavier metal part.

Plus, in case of a turn signal - it's intermittent, and is usually on for a short enough time not to worry about overheating the trunk.

Last edited by vadim; Oct 29, 2002 at 11:36 AM.
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Old Oct 29, 2002 | 01:17 AM
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Yes very true and it definately won't stop me from using the LEDs.

I just wanna punch through the technical barrier and gain more control of my car.

I don't like having to go to the dealership for any computer mods.

Anyone pirate this program email me ;-)
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Old Oct 29, 2002 | 01:31 AM
  #24  
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Originally posted by todd
Yes very true and it definately won't stop me from using the LEDs.

I just wanna punch through the technical barrier and gain more control of my car.

I don't like having to go to the dealership for any computer mods.

Anyone pirate this program email me ;-)
Good luck!
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Old Oct 29, 2002 | 09:08 AM
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that load equalizer didnt do the job on my brakelites....it still threw a "chk rt brk lite" after installing an LED bulb...so I returned them. May have just been a bad one tho.
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