why do you need two 1000W subs? it'll just be too much bass....unless you like it when you can hear every screw in your car rattling.

 

Very true. Most respectable audio companies will at least tell which voltage their amps were rated, with 14.4 being a popular one. You kinda have to learn about who bloats and who rates conservatively or find a in depth review. Peak power doesn't tell the true story about the amp or it's power supply. We were simply saying that RMS is a much better way to measure/compare power specs.

BTW, the formula you're thinking of is Electrical Power = Voltage * Current. An easy way to remember it is that a Watt is a VA or VoltAmp. That way gives you a reminder on your units too

Last and most important thing, if it sounds good to you, who cares what others think. Do they have your ears or taste? Nope!

 

do you guys think its worth it to put 2 subs in a benz?

 

What do you mean "worth it"?

I am a sound quality/autiophile type- not 16 year old "boom-boom" bass. I have a single 12" JBL GTi on an Arc Audio FD1200.1. It blends very well with my front stage (Rainbow Audio Germaniums on an A/D/S/ P840). However- when asked, it gets very loud and very low. Depending on your sub/amp combo a single sub setup is more than enough in most any car, aside from someone that's looking for strictly SPL. Aside from the first car I did when I was 16- I do single sub setups. Anything more is overkill. The technology that subs have these days- it's amazing the SPL you can get out of one- assuming the install is good and the enclosure is built well.

http://www.myspace.com/dennischeesegrobenstein - have a look at my pictures from my stereo install. I haven't added the most recent pictures when I cleaned up the trunk, deadened the doors some more, and swapped out the JBL GTi front stage with the Rainbows.

 

worth it? Do you think it is?

I require that my music has a nice low end. I, like bump don't need fat bass, but rather I appreciate the realism of a well rounded system. My own system uses a 10 dual voice coil powered by a 2 by 50 Watt amp powered by PPI in bridge mode.

My girl just ordered me some Polk Seps and a new Alpine Deck.

Awesome!

E

 

Put 10 subs in. Its worth it.

 

coming from 1 L7 Kicker solo at 800watts RMS i will not put subs in my benz unless its something like a Bazooka tube.

I love bass and loved it in my old car.. to me its just not worth it. im content with the bose system in my car just wish it had a tad more bass.

 

i have a system now i dont think i would put one in my next car

i do love bass tho but imo not that worth it, the trunk is tiny in our cars compared to other cars

 

There's lots of space if you rip out the back seats and install 2 rows of 6 8" subs. Then throw a couple 12" in the spare tire, and more on each side of the trunk!

You be ballin' then!

 

.... easy on the kid boys... he'll grow out of it eventually!

 

Theres so much ignorance about CA flowing in this thread.

 

If you have the premium stereo (HK or Bose, depending on the year) probably not.

 

yea man..wtvr floats ur boat..

 

Yes this subject has been beat to death. And I'm sorry for another thread, but I didn't see an official "aftermarket sub/amp" thread while I was STFFs.

So heres my questions. I have a 07 C230 with a stock headunit and stock system, no bose, no Nav just the basics.

1. Do I have a stock sub? and do I have a stock amp?
2. If I do have a stock sub is it possible to just replace it with something nicer? or add a nicer amp to give it some more juice?
3. I have read diff things about the power wire for the amp. Is there a place in the trunk I can use to get the power for the amp? or do I need to connect it directly to the battery?
4.Will installing an aftermarket amp and sub trip somekind of error codes either by using the rear speakers as my inputs, or in anyother way?

Thanks in advance!!

 

I put my answers in red. This is just from what I know, and that isn't a whole lot as I still have the stock stereo system in my car, I have however installed many a aftermarket system in other cars.

 

i am no expert here, but i am pretty sure with a stock system you could add an external amp, but you would probably want to add new speakers too at that point. crutchfield is a great resource, you can always call them and find out what fits in your car.

 

nope- you don't have a sub. even if you did- simply replacing it with a better sub wouldn't yield much since it would still be powered by the stock amp.

i ran the power wire from the battery on back. not saying you can't use the SAM, i just didn't care to venture down that road.

no worries on tripping any codes- just be sure to keep the key out of the ignition when disconnecting or connecting the power. also be sure to correctly disconnect the battery before doing any work.

 

1. NO

2.n/a

3. Yes there is somewhere to run the in the trunk (the fuse box) but dont do it that is horrible you wont draw anywhere near as much power as running to the the battery. Its really not that hard to do it just be careful I ran 0 guage.

4.No dont worry bout codes but bump gave you some good advice about this and I would listen to that.

Basically its all easy except for the LOC. That is def the most difficult part but trust me its all worth.

 

Your car does not have a sub, nor an amplifier outside the head unit. The head unit has a pretty good four channel amp inside. The stock head unit does not have a line level output, so if you desire a sub and amp the connection to the speaker wires is your best bet. It is also easier, because you do not need access to the head unit.

There is a # 8 wire from the front of the car that powers the trunk. This wire can carry 24 amps using the conservative 700 circular mils per amp rule. This is more than enough to run an amp for a 10 inch sub. Using current from the rear SAM will not cause any errors. The optional Harman Kardon amplifier that mounts in the trunk, draws it's power from this source. From 2005 model year Bose components were not fitted as the optional premium sound system.

While it is possible to run a huge wire from the battery to the trunk, it is counter productive. A # 0 AWG wire can carry 150 amps. Wonderful right? Where is that current going to come from? The battery can supply this for a short period, but the alternator is only rated 90 or optionally 120 amps. About 25 amps is needed to run the drive train, so a huge wire cannot be serviced to it's capacity. It also adds weight, which you pay for at the gas pump. If 150 amps were being used, that would be 1900 watts! That would be enough current to gold plate the wheel on the spare tire! In actual practice only about 4 amps is necessary to move your fleshy hind quarter with a properly designed sub and enclosure. Any more than 50 watts, it will be too loud to stay in the car.

I have installed an Infinity Basslink II in a few C class cars. With the optional 4 channel amp for the door speakers, it sounds better than the few hundred dollars it costs. Sound dampening using Dynamat on the rear doors and package shelf quiets an undesirable buzz in the rear. The front doors don't see much improvement from application.

http://manuals.harman.com/INF/CAR/Pr...cts.pis.vF.pdf

http://dynamat.com/download/specs/22...mat_Xtreme.pdf

 

Please note that Moviela is talking real watts RMS - all channels driven - Not the BS wimpy peak power ratings for a microsecond that the amp manufacturers quote which are totally & utterly meaningless.

 

1. Do I have a stock sub? and do I have a stock amp?

Prob Not
2. If I do have a stock sub is it possible to just replace it with something nicer? or add a nicer amp to give it some more juice?

Never power a stock sub with an aftermarket amp or vice versa, will sound like shi$ and you will end up getting a woofer in an enclosure in your trunk anyways. Do it right the first time.
3. I have read diff things about the power wire for the amp. Is there a place in the trunk I can use to get the power for the amp? or do I need to connect it directly to the battery?

Always, always go to the battery with @ least an 8guage wire fused 18-24 inches from the battery

4.Will installing an aftermarket amp and sub trip somekind of error codes either by using the rear speakers as my inputs, or in anyother way?

Not if it is done properly, make sure you get a FULL RANGE signal to your amplifier (never tag a factory subwoofer or factory Mid woofer, always the full range speaker) for your new woofer to sound proper and the crossover on your amplifier to work well.
Hope this helps

 

ight so i just bought 2 12in. MTX subs and a amp, and i wanna know if it possible to hook up the amp and sub while still keeping my stock center consule, lol, i dont want my mom tripping out about the car being changed, so if u no a way that i can install the amp and sub without changing my center cosule please let me no A.S.A.P., if i need to buy somehting to make it work ill do it, but i want to keep my stock center consule, also, if u can, please provide detailed instructions on the full installation and/or pictures. thanks a billion, will provide pics of finished product if completed, lol

 

maybe you can find some info. here,

https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w210/203690-how-adding-sub-your-stock-bose-system-line-output-convertor.html

 

Thats the same thread I was going to forward him to, lol. Its a setup for an E class so it may be a little bit different but worth a shot. You should also search the forum yourself and see what you come up with.

 

Your mom would get mad?