Very rough start-up/idle in the mornings or when cold and CEL?
02-11-2009, 03:41 PM
#26
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2002 C230K, 2013 BMW 328, 2015 BMW X5
Yup, it's just a morning/left for over 6 hours or so and cold issue.
They said that they manually checked the throttle actuator and that once they started fiddling with it that it started running fine...
How hard would that be to clean and replace the seal?
Thanks, E!
On the bright side, I had the brake fluid flushed. They cut me a deal on it and only charged me $78 for it (it's been over two years and at least 35k miles since I replaced the OEM brake fluid with ATE Super Blue and I really don't see a reason to stick with Super Blue over the OEM fluid).
They said that they manually checked the throttle actuator and that once they started fiddling with it that it started running fine...
How hard would that be to clean and replace the seal?
Thanks, E!
On the bright side, I had the brake fluid flushed. They cut me a deal on it and only charged me $78 for it (it's been over two years and at least 35k miles since I replaced the OEM brake fluid with ATE Super Blue and I really don't see a reason to stick with Super Blue over the OEM fluid).
I know my TB is a breeze to get to. Ask Jose how hard the M271 is to do.
E
02-11-2009, 04:18 PM
#27
Super Moderator
Thread Starter
I ordered the pigtails (part no. 2711502733) from getmercedesparts.com for only $18.75 each and a new OEM air filter for $31.88. 
I'll put them in this weekend or next weekend depending on when I get them...
Glyn, how do I remove the front portion of the engine cover? the one that is right above the cam sensors? are there any screws? where are the tabs?
I'll put them in this weekend or next weekend depending on when I get them...
Glyn, how do I remove the front portion of the engine cover? the one that is right above the cam sensors? are there any screws? where are the tabs?
02-11-2009, 05:27 PM
#28
Super Moderator
I would certainly try as Ed suggests - Do you have the car back? how is it behaving? Any more CELs?
02-11-2009, 06:00 PM
#29
Super Moderator
I ordered the pigtails (part no. 2711502733) from getmercedesparts.com for only $18.75 each and a new OEM air filter for $31.88.
I'll put them in this weekend or next weekend depending on when I get them...
Glyn, how do I remove the front portion of the engine cover? the one that is right above the cam sensors? are there any screws? where are the tabs?
I'll put them in this weekend or next weekend depending on when I get them...
Glyn, how do I remove the front portion of the engine cover? the one that is right above the cam sensors? are there any screws? where are the tabs?
Also see this DIY for the $12 pipe - POS - It explains the removal of a lot of stuff on that area of the engine.
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...r+removal+M271
02-11-2009, 06:27 PM
#30
MBWorld Fanatic!
The little cover over the cam sensors actually just pops off. It did on my car. I just had to pry gently and it popped right off. Snapped right back in with no issue.
My car had a P0456 code last October, and after two trips to the dealer it was determined that the fuel filler pipe in the car had a small leak. The dealer couldn't find this at first, maybe your dealer isn't trying hard enough? I think I've read about other people on here having this issue.
My dealer is also insisting my car does not have leaking cam sensors. They're replacing "internal mechanical cam sensors" due to the rattling on start TSB for me, but they say the ones on the front of the engine are fine. I have checked and I know them to be leaking, so thanks for that link to buy those isolation wires. I'll be doing that!
My car had a P0456 code last October, and after two trips to the dealer it was determined that the fuel filler pipe in the car had a small leak. The dealer couldn't find this at first, maybe your dealer isn't trying hard enough? I think I've read about other people on here having this issue.
My dealer is also insisting my car does not have leaking cam sensors. They're replacing "internal mechanical cam sensors" due to the rattling on start TSB for me, but they say the ones on the front of the engine are fine. I have checked and I know them to be leaking, so thanks for that link to buy those isolation wires. I'll be doing that!
02-11-2009, 06:53 PM
#31
Super Moderator
Sorry nlpamg - LILBENZ230 beat me to it - I'm talking one cover back with torx. The cover directly above the sensors as I show in this pic just pulls off.
02-11-2009, 07:05 PM
#32
Super Moderator
Thread Starter
thanks so much guys! I really appreciate all your help!
also, I forgot to mention that the dealer said that they did a compression test of the engine as well and that the car was fine...
also, I forgot to mention that the dealer said that they did a compression test of the engine as well and that the car was fine...
02-11-2009, 11:00 PM
#33
MBWorld Fanatic!
Is it rough-loud or rough-vibration? My idle has been rough-loud, rattling and they're replacing the "inner mechanical" cam sensors per a TSB.
02-12-2009, 12:03 AM
#34
Super Moderator
Thread Starter
So, I picked up the car today. I can't tell if the problem was rectified yet. When I got home, I decided to pop the hood and look at the brake fluid. To my utter disbelief, they damaged my engine cover. They punctured it.
Here are pictures of the damage:
The funny thing is that the night before I took it into the dealer, I had replaced the air filter with the OEM one. So, I knew that my engine bay was intact and that this damage wasn't there.
I called up my SA and left him a voicemail and I sent him an e-mail... We'll see how this goes.
Here are pictures of the damage:
The funny thing is that the night before I took it into the dealer, I had replaced the air filter with the OEM one. So, I knew that my engine bay was intact and that this damage wasn't there.
I called up my SA and left him a voicemail and I sent him an e-mail... We'll see how this goes.
02-12-2009, 12:10 AM
#35
Super Moderator
The M271 isn’t quite as technician-friendly as some when it comes to servicing the recirculation valve, as the supercharger must be first removed.
Throttle body is easily accessed...
Last edited by splinter; 10-06-2010 at 07:02 AM.
02-12-2009, 12:11 AM
#36
Super Moderator
Thread Starter
On a side note, this was what was on the invoice
Performed road test. No check engine light on. Vehicle running a little rough. Performed short test. No related codes. Performed test program after short test. Performed actuations of purge valve. Function ok.
R&R engine air cleaner housing, checked and inspected vent hose. Ok. Hooked up smoke machine to check for vacuum leaks and charcoal canister shut off valve. No leaks.
Performed guided tests for throttle actuator. Check actual values of throttle value actuator. Voltage 1 - 0.71V spec(0.3-0.9) Ok. Voltage 2 4.29V spec(4.0-4.6). ok. Checked internal resistance for actuator motor through ME. Found 1.3 OHMS spec(1-10 Ohms). Ok. Disconnected coupling 2 for throttle actuator to operate throttle actuator manually. Found 1.4 OHMS at idle spec (1.2 - 1.6 Ohms). Full load found .47 Ohms spec(0.4 - 0.7 ohms). ok.
Test voltage supply to throttle valve actuator. Found 5.0 Volts spec(4.75 - 5.25 V). ok.
Reconnected all components to perform road test. Vehicle is running much smoother after testing. Possible throttle actuator sticking. Possibly freed up actuator. Recommended more time for diag. Client declined further diag and repairs at this time.
R&R engine air cleaner housing, checked and inspected vent hose. Ok. Hooked up smoke machine to check for vacuum leaks and charcoal canister shut off valve. No leaks.
Performed guided tests for throttle actuator. Check actual values of throttle value actuator. Voltage 1 - 0.71V spec(0.3-0.9) Ok. Voltage 2 4.29V spec(4.0-4.6). ok. Checked internal resistance for actuator motor through ME. Found 1.3 OHMS spec(1-10 Ohms). Ok. Disconnected coupling 2 for throttle actuator to operate throttle actuator manually. Found 1.4 OHMS at idle spec (1.2 - 1.6 Ohms). Full load found .47 Ohms spec(0.4 - 0.7 ohms). ok.
Test voltage supply to throttle valve actuator. Found 5.0 Volts spec(4.75 - 5.25 V). ok.
Reconnected all components to perform road test. Vehicle is running much smoother after testing. Possible throttle actuator sticking. Possibly freed up actuator. Recommended more time for diag. Client declined further diag and repairs at this time.
02-12-2009, 12:14 AM
#38
Super Moderator
Thread Starter
wow, that doesn't look too good. thanks so much, John!
02-12-2009, 12:38 AM
#39
Super Moderator
Nah, no worries. Didn’t he say it fixed itself before you drove off?
The ol’ tool chest and a third hand are yours for the asking should they be deemed necessary.
The ol’ tool chest and a third hand are yours for the asking should they be deemed necessary.
02-12-2009, 07:07 AM
#40
Super Moderator
Phil - I recommend you take up John on his offer. I'm sure he will put his finger on this thing.
I'm shocked - Is that how you get an engine compartment back from a dealer - not only the damaged cover - demand a new one! - but dirty. Here you get your car back with the engine compartment areas, that are visible, spotlessly clean - not detailed but clean - and usually an explanation that they no longer steam clean engines for fear of damage to all the electronics - which makes sense. I would not want a steam cleaner near my engine.
I'm shocked - Is that how you get an engine compartment back from a dealer - not only the damaged cover - demand a new one! - but dirty. Here you get your car back with the engine compartment areas, that are visible, spotlessly clean - not detailed but clean - and usually an explanation that they no longer steam clean engines for fear of damage to all the electronics - which makes sense. I would not want a steam cleaner near my engine.
02-12-2009, 08:41 AM
#41
Super Moderator
Phil, I also notice that your transmission tube cap lock pin tab seems to have been broken off.
02-12-2009, 02:03 PM
#43
Super Moderator
Thread Starter
update: my SA replied to my e-mail and he said that he's ordered me a new engine cover and that it should be here next week.
this morning on start-up, it was indeed better. maybe the tech did accidentally free up the throttle...
thanks so much John, I will definitely be taking you up on your offer.
thanks for all your help again Glyn.
the dealers don't even clean anything here. they'll charge you extra for that...
aww crap! good eye! is that difficult to remove and replace? will it pose a problem?
I hope the idiot realized there was a tool there and took it out and didn't leave it in my engine bay.
this morning on start-up, it was indeed better. maybe the tech did accidentally free up the throttle...
Phil - I recommend you take up John on his offer. I'm sure he will put his finger on this thing.
I'm shocked - Is that how you get an engine compartment back from a dealer - not only the damaged cover - demand a new one! - but dirty. Here you get your car back with the engine compartment areas, that are visible, spotlessly clean - not detailed but clean - and usually an explanation that they no longer steam clean engines for fear of damage to all the electronics - which makes sense. I would not want a steam cleaner near my engine.
I'm shocked - Is that how you get an engine compartment back from a dealer - not only the damaged cover - demand a new one! - but dirty. Here you get your car back with the engine compartment areas, that are visible, spotlessly clean - not detailed but clean - and usually an explanation that they no longer steam clean engines for fear of damage to all the electronics - which makes sense. I would not want a steam cleaner near my engine.
the dealers don't even clean anything here. they'll charge you extra for that...
I hope the idiot realized there was a tool there and took it out and didn't leave it in my engine bay.
02-12-2009, 02:23 PM
#44
Super Moderator
[QUOTE=nlpamg;3347893]update: my SA replied to my e-mail and he said that he's ordered me a new engine cover and that it should be here next week.
Good!
aww crap! good eye! is that difficult to remove and replace? will it pose a problem?
It looks like there is enough protruding to pull what remains of the clip out with needle nose pliers. Then just replace it - easy.
QUOTE]
Good!
aww crap! good eye! is that difficult to remove and replace? will it pose a problem?
It looks like there is enough protruding to pull what remains of the clip out with needle nose pliers. Then just replace it - easy.
QUOTE]
02-12-2009, 02:39 PM
#45
MBWorld Fanatic!
http://www.alpha-bid.com/product68.html
You need one that works with Canbus.
You need one that works with Canbus.
I bought a crappy OBDII reader from Kragen today (since AutoZone no longer lends theirs).
I bought this one: https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...de-reader.html
It didn't work and hopefully I can return it.
Anyone got any recommendations on a cheapish code reader that will work with the facelifted w203?
I bought this one: https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...de-reader.html
It didn't work and hopefully I can return it.
Anyone got any recommendations on a cheapish code reader that will work with the facelifted w203?
02-12-2009, 03:33 PM
#46
I've been having the same problems on startup, a rough idle for a moment, yet if I give it a bit of gas it goes away.
No CEL, and no codes logged. Gas mileage is great, engine idles perfectly after, ... so I've ignored it for now.
If it is indeed the recirc valve getting stuck, oh well, pressing the gas seems to unstick it.
No CEL, and no codes logged. Gas mileage is great, engine idles perfectly after, ... so I've ignored it for now.
If it is indeed the recirc valve getting stuck, oh well, pressing the gas seems to unstick it.
02-12-2009, 04:46 PM
#47
Super Moderator
Thread Starter
[QUOTE=Glyn M Ruck;3347959]
ah, so that's all it is, pull the pin out and the transmission tube cap unlocks so I can pull it out and then I can just put the new one in and push the pin in.
update: my SA replied to my e-mail and he said that he's ordered me a new engine cover and that it should be here next week.
Good!
aww crap! good eye! is that difficult to remove and replace? will it pose a problem?
It looks like there is enough protruding to pull what remains of the clip out with needle nose pliers. Then just replace it - easy.
QUOTE]
Good!
aww crap! good eye! is that difficult to remove and replace? will it pose a problem?
It looks like there is enough protruding to pull what remains of the clip out with needle nose pliers. Then just replace it - easy.
QUOTE]
02-12-2009, 04:46 PM
#48
Super Moderator
Thread Starter
http://www.alpha-bid.com/product68.html
You need one that works with Canbus.
You need one that works with Canbus.
02-12-2009, 04:48 PM
#49
Super Moderator
02-12-2009, 04:50 PM
#50
Super Moderator
Thread Starter
[QUOTE=Glyn M Ruck;3348325]awesome, thanks!
ok, now the hard part is trying to figure out the part number...
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...&siteid=214660
I went to the transmission and the engine lists and can't find it.
ok, now the hard part is trying to figure out the part number...
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...&siteid=214660
I went to the transmission and the engine lists and can't find it.
