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C-Coupe HATCH won't open
My trunk will not open, from the outside. I can press the emergency green button on the inside of the trunk and it will open. I am not sure how to fix this. Please help!!
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This was posted on another site...but without pics and apparently is a fairly common issue, and can be fixed DIY.
I'm going to kill 2 birds with one stone, fix the hatch issue, and fix all the squeaks and creaks from the plastic pieces I'll be removing to get to the hatch switch. So, if you can wait well, might be up to a week, since I'm sick and not feeling so well, and I need to pick up an SD card, since I lost mine but... I'll post a DIY with pics. The short answer is apparently the micro switch in the hatch either gets pushed out of position or goes bad, and supposedly the micro switch can be had for 17 bucks according to someone who didn't bother to post the pn. I hate it when people post helpful info and leave out the most critical info... arrgh. Meanwhile try doing what I do, which is pull on the hatch latch strongly while at the same time flashing the open function on the key. Sometimes it takes 10 times but it eventually opens. Keep constant pressure on the latch, it's a matter of getting it to make contact. |
hey - it's one of these two parts I think -
A2038217551 (90 degree, marked as "US") A2038217451 Take a picture of yours - I'll try and match it to the diagrams.. |
Funny, I was getting round to posting about this too. I've noticed the trunk has been harder to unlatch of late. I considered it being down to cold weather causing some kind of interference with the mechanism...I've had to resort to using the latch on the (3 button) remote/key.
Secondly, does anyone know of better trunk arms to allow the trunk to lift up fully rather than just lifting approx 2 inches. I've been impressed my friend in the UK how's BMW coupe is of similar design - and the trunk arms are really powerful, lifting the trunk open fully. I assume the stock MB spring arms are not designed to lift the trunk fully? Shame... |
Can that be just a rusty fuse or one about to snap?
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Originally Posted by C230Brit
(Post 3421518)
Funny, I was getting round to posting about this too. I've noticed the trunk has been harder to unlatch of late. I considered it being down to cold weather causing some kind of interference with the mechanism...I've had to resort to using the latch on the (3 button) remote/key.
Secondly, does anyone know of better trunk arms to allow the trunk to lift up fully rather than just lifting approx 2 inches. I've been impressed my friend in the UK how's BMW coupe is of similar design - and the trunk arms are really powerful, lifting the trunk open fully. I assume the stock MB spring arms are not designed to lift the trunk fully? Shame... These are what I am after http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/se...294964807+9321 Not sure if they fit the coupe though...google "w203 Trunk strut" |
Originally Posted by C230 Sport Coup
(Post 3420954)
This was posted on another site...but without pics and apparently is a fairly common issue, and can be fixed DIY.
I'm going to kill 2 birds with one stone, fix the hatch issue, and fix all the squeaks and creaks from the plastic pieces I'll be removing to get to the hatch switch. So, if you can wait well, might be up to a week, since I'm sick and not feeling so well, and I need to pick up an SD card, since I lost mine but... I'll post a DIY with pics. The short answer is apparently the micro switch in the hatch either gets pushed out of position or goes bad, and supposedly the micro switch can be had for 17 bucks according to someone who didn't bother to post the pn. I hate it when people post helpful info and leave out the most critical info... arrgh. Meanwhile try doing what I do, which is pull on the hatch latch strongly while at the same time flashing the open function on the key. Sometimes it takes 10 times but it eventually opens. Keep constant pressure on the latch, it's a matter of getting it to make contact. |
I've been down with the flu....I'll post when I'm able,
once the work is done. |
anyone know how to manually lock the hatch? my smartkeys aren't working, and I'm going away tomorrow. I've locked the doors manually, but the hatch remains unlocked no matter what I do with the metal key (it turns both ways, but neither seems to lock it).
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Originally Posted by C230 Sport Coup
(Post 3420954)
This was posted on another site...but without pics and apparently is a fairly common issue, and can be fixed DIY.
I'm going to kill 2 birds with one stone, fix the hatch issue, and fix all the squeaks and creaks from the plastic pieces I'll be removing to get to the hatch switch. So, if you can wait well, might be up to a week, since I'm sick and not feeling so well, and I need to pick up an SD card, since I lost mine but... I'll post a DIY with pics. The short answer is apparently the micro switch in the hatch either gets pushed out of position or goes bad, and supposedly the micro switch can be had for 17 bucks according to someone who didn't bother to post the pn. I hate it when people post helpful info and leave out the most critical info... arrgh. Meanwhile try doing what I do, which is pull on the hatch latch strongly while at the same time flashing the open function on the key. Sometimes it takes 10 times but it eventually opens. Keep constant pressure on the latch, it's a matter of getting it to make contact. How's the DIY guide going? Can you send me a link to the other site's DIY guide with no pics? |
4 Attachment(s)
Yeh, sorry I never got around to this...
worst case senario, pull the metal blade key from the plastic key, bend over and look up at the hatch from below, you will see a place to put the key, and you can open that way. Turn, and pull up on the hatch. Here's a thread on benzworld, apparently the switch inside the hatch is the issue. http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w203...runk-door.html Then see attached, I pulled some info from the service DVD as to disassembling the hatch. While you're at it, get some adhesive felt, and stick it on the back of the plastic pieces in the hatch to quiet things down. I got it at a lighting store. Think bottom of a lamp, or online. So, this should pretty well cover it all... let me know how it goes. Darkman, sounds like you have a sedan? Please update your profile to show what car you have and the area you live. |
1 Attachment(s)
Here's the pic from the EPC.
#40 looks like it might be a switch, but EPC says it's not valid and gives no PN. So much for special order on the switch, but from what most people say it's not the switch itself, but that it's not making good contact. Mine seems worse when it's cold. I checked the wiring diagrams too, no switch, but does state it's a 2 wire connector. The whole handle assembly is about $200...hopefully not needed. https://mbworld.org/forums/attachmen...1&d=1242236494 |
Update!
Well I finally tackled this. Turns out there's a metal piece that makes contact with the micro switch. I bent it a little bit so it makes better contact, but now I'm getting a constant "trunk open" error. I tried adjusting the hasp on the bottom of the hatch. But still I just keep getting the error. Anyone seen this? What the heck tells the ECU if the hatch is opened or closed? The trunk release has 2 connectors, one for the emergency release in the hatch panel, and the other for the micro switch. So, what the heck tells the computer is the hatch is open or closed? I don't see a sensor or switch anywhere>? BTW- the pn for the micro-switch is 2038217451. It's #40 in the picture. |
Same question...how does the ECU know if the hatch is closed, where's the sensor.
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BTW- Just an update, I fixed this long ago, I had left one cable disconnected, and that's why it thought it was not closed.
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Originally Posted by C230 Sport Coup
(Post 4238399)
BTW- Just an update, I fixed this long ago, I had left one cable disconnected, and that's why it thought it was not closed.
You mentioned that you will be tacking this issue as well...how did it go? |
Originally Posted by jcnash
(Post 4238423)
I dont have the hatch open problem., but I do have tons of squeaks and rattles from the hatch trim.
You mentioned that you will be tacking this issue as well...how did it go? While i had all the plastic bits off, I put thin stips of stick-on felt on the edges of te trim pieces where they contact the other pieces, and it's very quiet. My most annoying noise is the chrome door pins I bought, Can't seem to get the passenger side one from making horrendous noises, and where did I put the damn plastic ones? arg. |
Originally Posted by C230 Sport Coup
(Post 4239009)
Just fine.
While i had all the plastic bits off, I put thin stips of stick-on felt on the edges of te trim pieces where they contact the other pieces, and it's very quiet. My most annoying noise is the chrome door pins I bought, Can't seem to get the passenger side one from making horrendous noises, and where did I put the damn plastic ones? arg. I also have weird rattles coming from behind the center console, door/B-pillar area. |
FYI- It is nearly impossible to remove the piece below the window without breaking most of the tabs. I think at the dealer, they consider it expendable, but I still have the original piece.
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Originally Posted by C230 Sport Coup
(Post 4238399)
BTW- Just an update, I fixed this long ago, I had left one cable disconnected, and that's why it thought it was not closed.
I am getting also the "trunk is open" alarm when I place the car on drive. If I clear the signal it will come back at more then 10 miles /hours when the door auto-close feature kicks in. If I clear it it again will stay away until next time when I start the car. You mentioned that you have left one cable disconnected. I have check all my cables and they are all in place. Which cable are you referring to?Perhaps I didn't push it in well enough.... |
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I am having the same problem with my wagon (2003 C240)....Can't open my hatchback!!!!
Need HELP, don't even know how to open from the inside!!! Need car to transport baby and stroller... Would appreciate any feedback, Thanks Have a great day |
Hatchback wont open
I had the same problem on my C230. I found the switch wasn't making contact. Went to my local MB dealer in Dallas and was quoted 361.00 for the part. I passed on it and went back home to try a self repair. A rubber band wrapped around the micro switch tightened the contact up and it has worked perfectly ever since. I may need a fresh rubber band in a few years but 30 minutes to repair the problem with no part cost was not a bad deal. I know it's redneck engineering but it worked well. I hope this helps someone out.
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Just bend the metal piece that contacts the switch a tiny bit, not too much.
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If anyone reads this and insists on having a new handle assembly i have one for sale, including the switch.
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