Driver's side BiX is aimed down
 

:wall:

Both of the auto leveling sensors are in the correct orientation and ONLY the passenger aiming readily moves up and down when I play with either the front or rear sensor.

I don't know if the driver's side EVER auto leveled because I originally had frosty xenons and swapped them out to BiX. After installing BiX, I realized that the sensors were not in the correct orientation. After fixing that, the auto leveling was working for the first time in my ownership.

Any suggestions on what procedures I can perform to determine if it's the wiring to the headlight or the headlight itself?

FFS I really don't want to pull this headlight out again to test it with my old frosty xenon. :mad:

You will need to check your levelling wires first, if its all good then you try to readjust manually until they are at the same level, and then try auto levelling again..

The adjustment screw is maxed out in height and the driver's headlight is still pointing at the ground. This is because the auto leveling motor has the housing aimed as low as it can go.

I'm thinking I need to check the voltage on the connector that goes into the topmost plug (I believe that's the plug for the leveling motor). The problem is I don't know the pin diagram. I believe there are 4 holes in the connector, but only 3 of them have female pin receptacles.

Edit: What I'm trying to say is that I don't know if the motor fried while in this position, I installed the headlight with the motor already in this position and it's not getting any voltage, or if the car is actively telling the motor to aim down. I have doubts that it could be the last scenario because the passenger headlight is leveling just fine. Long story short, I think either the motor is fried, or the wiring is screwed up. Looking for advice on HOW to figure this out...

If they adjustment is maxed out in height and the driver's headlight is still pointing at the ground... and you mentioned the auto levelling motor has the housing aimed as low as it can go, I'm not sure if it's the motor's issue. I think your levelling housing is loose altogether from the screw that you tried to max out.

So the only option is to make sure if the screw makes any changes at all. If it doesn't, seems like you'd have to take your headlamp off and tear it apart and re-affix the housing to the screw mount so that your manual and automatic levelling will work normally again.

But that's what I think though, and by any means I'm no expert.

No... The housing would be flopping around if that was the case - it is not. The adjustment screw is still connected to the housing. If I screw it in, the aim goes even lower.

The driver's headlight doesn't vibrate or do anything when I fire up the car. When I had the level sensor on backwards, the passenger headlight was also aimed at the ground but instead of doing the sweep, it would just vibrate while pointing at the ground.

Nothing? :confused:

Dingle. Either that servo motor is fried or is receiving no voltage or reversed voltage which is bottoming it against the stops. I suggest you make sure the motor is operational. Take a 12 volt supply off the battery with a light bulb in series to shunt some of the available current & try different connections direct onto the motor after unplugging it from the harness. I presume you have the full BiX retrofit instruction pdf that I posted a while back?

Do you know if there's any way to test the connector? I believe it has 3 prongs.

"The black and blue are for the motor control; the other two are the position feedback signal to the control module."

Found this on benzworld. So in theory, I should only see voltage when the headlights do the sweep on startup, right?

Which setting do I set my multimeter to?

http://site.unbeatablesale.com/img099/egle3849.gif

My money is on the motor going bad on this one. Best of luck dingleberry.

i wish i can remember who/where..... in a different thread, I read where someone
discovered a disconnected hard link which was part of the autoleving telemetry
system....down near the suspension area. in his case, it was mechanical and
not electrical. this thread yielded someone else chiming in saying that the
exact same thing happened to them.

dont recall which forum, model, etc, but it was OEM HID.

That has already been ruled out...

http://www.imgjoe.com/x/bix.jpg

Is the circled area the input for the leveling motor?

If so the information I posted above is wrong because the plug going to it only has 3 wires. Yellow, Grey, Black/Purple.

Oh FFS it's the headlight... :mad:

I plugged in my old frosty xenon and it did the sweep on startup...

So what are my options now?

Set it to the V with the straight lines on top. This represents DC. The one with the sinusoidal wave represents AC

If it's the headlight then it sounds like the motor is gone. I suggest you do what Glyn stated above by putting a 12 v source to the wires with a bulb/resistor in series to test the motor. If there is no movement then its highly likely the motor is dead.

Are you trying to test the harness or the connection within the headlight?

I was trying to test the harness but obviously the harness is functional.

Yes, I realize this... I don't need to try and put 12V to it. The harness works.

What I'm wondering is if it's possible to swap the motor from my old frosty xenon over to the BiX. Or if I can just purchase the motor somewhere...

Is this on an aftermarket Bix?

No :confused:

The problem lies in the light if your old frosty zenon cycled. So it's open the light and repair or replace :mad:

If you don't mind canabalising your old light you might get lucky.

Are they both Automotive Lighting units? (AL)

BiX are Automotive Lighting but frosty xenons are Bosch

SOB!!!! Then i doubt that the servo motors are interchangeable. If you can get the motor out it can always be rewound/repaired depending on how it's sealed. I don't know of anybody that has got hold of AL spares.

Maybe you can contact them in Czech Republic.

https://mbworld.org/forums/attachmen...builds-3zz.jpg

Well I might be able to help you again what side is bad i have an extra bix unit i bought for parts i needed the ignitor out of it.

Driver's side, the same side that had a failed ballast.