Handbrake warning light / bleep won't clear
#1
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C class sports coupe 220cdi
Handbrake warning light / bleep won't clear
Hi,
C Class coupe 2002
I am having problems trying to clear the 'handbrake on ' warning light and bleeper, it's been temperamental for some time usually taking two attempts to clear the warning.
Last night it would not clear at all and had to resort to pulling the brake lever backwards with my clutch foot, this stopped it but got frustrating when I needed a third foot for the clutch !
I have had the cover off under the dash hoping to see a micro switch that needed attention but it was a bit crowded under there with the steering column etc so my efforts were in vain.
Any idea's guys ? Don't mind pulling the fuse to shut it up if that's the only easy solution.
Thanks. Steve
C Class coupe 2002
I am having problems trying to clear the 'handbrake on ' warning light and bleeper, it's been temperamental for some time usually taking two attempts to clear the warning.
Last night it would not clear at all and had to resort to pulling the brake lever backwards with my clutch foot, this stopped it but got frustrating when I needed a third foot for the clutch !
I have had the cover off under the dash hoping to see a micro switch that needed attention but it was a bit crowded under there with the steering column etc so my efforts were in vain.
Any idea's guys ? Don't mind pulling the fuse to shut it up if that's the only easy solution.
Thanks. Steve
#2
MBWorld Fanatic!
My e-brake release thing is feeling really weird lately when I use it to release the brake. Feels loose, like it doesn't have a secure grip on whatever it is that releases the brake. I'm afraid that any day now the brake isn't gonna release.
#3
Cable adjustment under rear seat
FWIW my 2002 C230 Coupe needed the parking cable tightened… as the pull back method was the only way to get mine to go out. My prior owner said they never used it, I discovered why...when I 1st got it.
Under the rear seat in the center, pull it up and remove the carpet cover & there is an access door you can easily get too. Small panel in the center is a 3 point meeting of the 2 rear cables running forward from the rotors and the 1 cable from the front parking brake foot pedal.
These 3 cable ends meet on a pivot arm there. I found in mine that Pivot Arm axis hinge pin had a wound spring and it was broke offering little return pressure. As well very dry & some rust which all in need of a good shot of PB Blaster.
Without taking anything further apart I sprayed & also drilled 2 holes small holes to add a conventional hardware store variety stretch spring between those 2 holes which aid to pull that Pivot arm back to the brake off location.
I also cranked up the slack in the adjustment that is there too (from the front cable end)... That got it all working well and past NYS Inspection.
Months later on during a commute home all heLL broke loose from the rear I thought it was a wheel bearing let go. I nursed it home...& jacked it up, Bearings had no play, pulled the wheels & rotors & I found out the rear parking brake shoes under the rotor back there were shot and they chunked off disintegrating shoe material in there made huge rattle bang noises & WOW so much brake dust!
Pleased it wasn't a bearing issue.... it was another remove & replace normal brake type job I'd done in past...but then I had to go back under the seat and take that slack adjustment back out of the same front cable to get the rotors back on due to new pads being whole diameter now. Again all back working on par….
Under the rear seat in the center, pull it up and remove the carpet cover & there is an access door you can easily get too. Small panel in the center is a 3 point meeting of the 2 rear cables running forward from the rotors and the 1 cable from the front parking brake foot pedal.
These 3 cable ends meet on a pivot arm there. I found in mine that Pivot Arm axis hinge pin had a wound spring and it was broke offering little return pressure. As well very dry & some rust which all in need of a good shot of PB Blaster.
Without taking anything further apart I sprayed & also drilled 2 holes small holes to add a conventional hardware store variety stretch spring between those 2 holes which aid to pull that Pivot arm back to the brake off location.
I also cranked up the slack in the adjustment that is there too (from the front cable end)... That got it all working well and past NYS Inspection.
Months later on during a commute home all heLL broke loose from the rear I thought it was a wheel bearing let go. I nursed it home...& jacked it up, Bearings had no play, pulled the wheels & rotors & I found out the rear parking brake shoes under the rotor back there were shot and they chunked off disintegrating shoe material in there made huge rattle bang noises & WOW so much brake dust!
Pleased it wasn't a bearing issue.... it was another remove & replace normal brake type job I'd done in past...but then I had to go back under the seat and take that slack adjustment back out of the same front cable to get the rotors back on due to new pads being whole diameter now. Again all back working on par….
#4
2002 c230 , w203, adjusting Parking brakes
I took off the cover under the back seat and i found that one of the cables (the left) facing to the rear of the car, did slide from its place. I would like to know how can i put the cable end in its right position. is it the middle nut that i can unscrew it release the tension slide the end of the cable then retie the nut again ? or something else,
thanks
thanks
#5
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2004 C230 Kompressor Sedan
Hi,
C Class coupe 2002
I am having problems trying to clear the 'handbrake on ' warning light and bleeper, it's been temperamental for some time usually taking two attempts to clear the warning.
Last night it would not clear at all and had to resort to pulling the brake lever backwards with my clutch foot, this stopped it but got frustrating when I needed a third foot for the clutch !
I have had the cover off under the dash hoping to see a micro switch that needed attention but it was a bit crowded under there with the steering column etc so my efforts were in vain.
Any idea's guys ? Don't mind pulling the fuse to shut it up if that's the only easy solution.
Thanks. Steve
C Class coupe 2002
I am having problems trying to clear the 'handbrake on ' warning light and bleeper, it's been temperamental for some time usually taking two attempts to clear the warning.
Last night it would not clear at all and had to resort to pulling the brake lever backwards with my clutch foot, this stopped it but got frustrating when I needed a third foot for the clutch !
I have had the cover off under the dash hoping to see a micro switch that needed attention but it was a bit crowded under there with the steering column etc so my efforts were in vain.
Any idea's guys ? Don't mind pulling the fuse to shut it up if that's the only easy solution.
Thanks. Steve
1-Pull release handle completely
2-then using cluth foot, tap backwards the ebrake pedal and hold
3-Release handle back down
Does the trick everytime... seems the latching doesn't always click
or
Rubberband trick
1-rubberband around the ebrake pedal
2-other end around the ebrake release handle
#6
Sticky parking brake/light not switching off and bleeping
Steve 2 easy solutions that worked for me:
1-Pull release handle completely
2-then using cluth foot, tap backwards the ebrake pedal and hold
3-Release handle back down
Does the trick everytime... seems the latching doesn't always click
or
Rubberband trick
1-rubberband around the ebrake pedal
2-other end around the ebrake release handle
1-Pull release handle completely
2-then using cluth foot, tap backwards the ebrake pedal and hold
3-Release handle back down
Does the trick everytime... seems the latching doesn't always click
or
Rubberband trick
1-rubberband around the ebrake pedal
2-other end around the ebrake release handle
#7
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Northwest Arkansas
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2016 C450
This is all a sign of that adjuster assembly under the rear seat getting rusted and freezing. It then wont allow itself back into the released position. You can either lube it really well and work it back and forth with a pry bar until it loosens, or you can replace it which can be hard without access to a lift.