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DIY Brake Pads & Rotors Replacement
05-06-2013, 04:52 PM
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W203 C320
DIY Brake Pads & Rotors Replacement
I'm looking to order new pads and rotors today or tomorrow so I can replace them this weekend. After some forum searching, I still have questions.
First, are there any guides on replacing the front rotors and bads? I read about some people messing up and don't want to do that.
Second, I'd like to hear some opinions on what rotor/pad combo I should go with. Right now, I'm on mymercedesparts and it's $161 for front rotors and pads. That seems pretty cheap, honestly. Is their a major advantage to upgrading the brakes? If so, what make?
Are the stock pads ceramic? It would be nice not having all the dust...
Thanks
First, are there any guides on replacing the front rotors and bads? I read about some people messing up and don't want to do that.
Second, I'd like to hear some opinions on what rotor/pad combo I should go with. Right now, I'm on mymercedesparts and it's $161 for front rotors and pads. That seems pretty cheap, honestly. Is their a major advantage to upgrading the brakes? If so, what make?
Are the stock pads ceramic? It would be nice not having all the dust...
Thanks
05-06-2013, 05:28 PM
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06 C230 SS 6spd
i recommend akebono euro ceramic pads, OEM stopping and almost zero brake dust unlike the oem pads that dust like crazy imho. OEM rotors are fine or you can get stoptech rotors. pepboys usually sells the akebono if not tirerack sells them and usually has a sale on them. its pretty hard to mess up the brake change. just make sure you bleed properly. go to the top of the site and hit the WIKI button and there should be a DIY in the wiki
05-06-2013, 05:31 PM
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i recommend akebono euro ceramic pads, OEM stopping and almost zero brake dust unlike the oem pads that dust like crazy imho. OEM rotors are fine or you can get stoptech rotors. pepboys usually sells the akebono if not tirerack sells them and usually has a sale on them. its pretty hard to mess up the brake change. just make sure you bleed properly. go to the top of the site and hit the WIKI button and there should be a DIY in the wiki
I'll look at my local pep boys. Would you recommend a better online place to get those pads? How about the OEM rotors?
05-06-2013, 05:42 PM
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05-06-2013, 05:50 PM
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There are lots of step by step guides to change the brakes. Some items not mentioned are:
Start the day before and hose down the rotor with solvent like PB Blaster so the rotor comes off. A puller is better than a big fat hammer to remove it to protect the wheel bearing.
Remove the flat head screw with a Torx driver that fits. Don't strip the head, use solvent and an impact driver if necessary.
Remove some brake fluid before you remove the pads. Use a turkey baster and discard the fluid removed. This prevents the tank from overflow when pushing back the pistons. Bake fluid will damage paintwork instantly.
You need two special tools to do the job properly. The first is a calibrated torque wrench to tighten the bolts, and a parallel jaw spreader to reset the piston in the caliper. Other techniques to push back the piston can (and usually) result in a canted piston ruining the caliper.
The factory pads have a packet of grease for the sliding surfaces of the pads. Use it. If you buy after market pads this special required grease is $40 for a small tube. The factory pads also come with new bolts. Use them. Only tighten them to specified torque once. Replace the anti-rattle springs.
With new rotors I always change the flat head screw. Fifty cents well spent. You front wheels will have one or two sensors to indicate brake wear. When you buy the pads, buy the sensors too. They are about $6 from Bowa (the OEM) at Pelican Parts. You can try to use the old sensor, but it is almost impossible to remove it from the old pad. Prior to taking the pads out take a picture of the routing of the wiring to the sensor, and lay the new wire EXACTLY the same way.
Have a wire ready when removing the caliper so it can be supported. Don't but any stress on the hose.
Remove the caliper frame and the rotor. The bolts for the frame are very tight. Make sure to tighten them properly after the new rotor is on. Before putting the new rotor on, use a motorized wire brush to clean the contact surfaces of rust and debris. The rotor centers on the hub, make sure it is as clean as the day it was born.
Use brake cleaner (usually Perchloroethylene) to remove dust from boot prior to resetting the piston. Good idea to clean the wheel contact surface and bolts before reassembly.
Upgrading the brakes requires a fat pocket to replace calipers and rotors, and for everyday driving is not really necessary. The factory brakes are a good choice for road driving. They require the least pedal effort to stop the car. If you have other drivers who are smaller, lightweight, or older consider they might not have the muscle to stop the car in an emergency. If dust is a serious problem for you ceramic pads from Meyle are a good choice. Just be sure to bed the pads, and then get used to how they react when you stomp on the pedal from 50 mph.
If the brake fluid has not been changed for two years, it is time. Use only the specified fluid. Avoid "just like, as good as, or all the mechanics use this" fluids from the countermen.
Start the day before and hose down the rotor with solvent like PB Blaster so the rotor comes off. A puller is better than a big fat hammer to remove it to protect the wheel bearing.
Remove the flat head screw with a Torx driver that fits. Don't strip the head, use solvent and an impact driver if necessary.
Remove some brake fluid before you remove the pads. Use a turkey baster and discard the fluid removed. This prevents the tank from overflow when pushing back the pistons. Bake fluid will damage paintwork instantly.
You need two special tools to do the job properly. The first is a calibrated torque wrench to tighten the bolts, and a parallel jaw spreader to reset the piston in the caliper. Other techniques to push back the piston can (and usually) result in a canted piston ruining the caliper.
The factory pads have a packet of grease for the sliding surfaces of the pads. Use it. If you buy after market pads this special required grease is $40 for a small tube. The factory pads also come with new bolts. Use them. Only tighten them to specified torque once. Replace the anti-rattle springs.
With new rotors I always change the flat head screw. Fifty cents well spent. You front wheels will have one or two sensors to indicate brake wear. When you buy the pads, buy the sensors too. They are about $6 from Bowa (the OEM) at Pelican Parts. You can try to use the old sensor, but it is almost impossible to remove it from the old pad. Prior to taking the pads out take a picture of the routing of the wiring to the sensor, and lay the new wire EXACTLY the same way.
Have a wire ready when removing the caliper so it can be supported. Don't but any stress on the hose.
Remove the caliper frame and the rotor. The bolts for the frame are very tight. Make sure to tighten them properly after the new rotor is on. Before putting the new rotor on, use a motorized wire brush to clean the contact surfaces of rust and debris. The rotor centers on the hub, make sure it is as clean as the day it was born.
Use brake cleaner (usually Perchloroethylene) to remove dust from boot prior to resetting the piston. Good idea to clean the wheel contact surface and bolts before reassembly.
Upgrading the brakes requires a fat pocket to replace calipers and rotors, and for everyday driving is not really necessary. The factory brakes are a good choice for road driving. They require the least pedal effort to stop the car. If you have other drivers who are smaller, lightweight, or older consider they might not have the muscle to stop the car in an emergency. If dust is a serious problem for you ceramic pads from Meyle are a good choice. Just be sure to bed the pads, and then get used to how they react when you stomp on the pedal from 50 mph.
If the brake fluid has not been changed for two years, it is time. Use only the specified fluid. Avoid "just like, as good as, or all the mechanics use this" fluids from the countermen.
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05-09-2013, 02:24 AM
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2007 C230 SS 6MT
If you're looking for an upgrade over the stock rotors & pads http://brakeperformance.com/
05-09-2013, 09:32 AM
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2007 C230SS; 2014 ML350 BT
There are lots of step by step guides to change the brakes. Some items not mentioned are:
Start the day before and hose down the rotor with solvent like PB Blaster so the rotor comes off. A puller is better than a big fat hammer to remove it to protect the wheel bearing.
Remove the flat head screw with a Torx driver that fits. Don't strip the head, use solvent and an impact driver if necessary.
Remove some brake fluid before you remove the pads. Use a turkey baster and discard the fluid removed. This prevents the tank from overflow when pushing back the pistons. Bake fluid will damage paintwork instantly.
You need two special tools to do the job properly. The first is a calibrated torque wrench to tighten the bolts, and a parallel jaw spreader to reset the piston in the caliper. Other techniques to push back the piston can (and usually) result in a canted piston ruining the caliper.
The factory pads have a packet of grease for the sliding surfaces of the pads. Use it. If you buy after market pads this special required grease is $40 for a small tube. The factory pads also come with new bolts. Use them. Only tighten them to specified torque once. Replace the anti-rattle springs.
With new rotors I always change the flat head screw. Fifty cents well spent. You front wheels will have one or two sensors to indicate brake wear. When you buy the pads, buy the sensors too. They are about $6 from Bowa (the OEM) at Pelican Parts. You can try to use the old sensor, but it is almost impossible to remove it from the old pad. Prior to taking the pads out take a picture of the routing of the wiring to the sensor, and lay the new wire EXACTLY the same way.
Have a wire ready when removing the caliper so it can be supported. Don't but any stress on the hose.
Remove the caliper frame and the rotor. The bolts for the frame are very tight. Make sure to tighten them properly after the new rotor is on. Before putting the new rotor on, use a motorized wire brush to clean the contact surfaces of rust and debris. The rotor centers on the hub, make sure it is as clean as the day it was born.
Use brake cleaner (usually Perchloroethylene) to remove dust from boot prior to resetting the piston. Good idea to clean the wheel contact surface and bolts before reassembly.
Upgrading the brakes requires a fat pocket to replace calipers and rotors, and for everyday driving is not really necessary. The factory brakes are a good choice for road driving. They require the least pedal effort to stop the car. If you have other drivers who are smaller, lightweight, or older consider they might not have the muscle to stop the car in an emergency. If dust is a serious problem for you ceramic pads from Meyle are a good choice. Just be sure to bed the pads, and then get used to how they react when you stomp on the pedal from 50 mph.
If the brake fluid has not been changed for two years, it is time. Use only the specified fluid. Avoid "just like, as good as, or all the mechanics use this" fluids from the countermen.
Start the day before and hose down the rotor with solvent like PB Blaster so the rotor comes off. A puller is better than a big fat hammer to remove it to protect the wheel bearing.
Remove the flat head screw with a Torx driver that fits. Don't strip the head, use solvent and an impact driver if necessary.
Remove some brake fluid before you remove the pads. Use a turkey baster and discard the fluid removed. This prevents the tank from overflow when pushing back the pistons. Bake fluid will damage paintwork instantly.
You need two special tools to do the job properly. The first is a calibrated torque wrench to tighten the bolts, and a parallel jaw spreader to reset the piston in the caliper. Other techniques to push back the piston can (and usually) result in a canted piston ruining the caliper.
The factory pads have a packet of grease for the sliding surfaces of the pads. Use it. If you buy after market pads this special required grease is $40 for a small tube. The factory pads also come with new bolts. Use them. Only tighten them to specified torque once. Replace the anti-rattle springs.
With new rotors I always change the flat head screw. Fifty cents well spent. You front wheels will have one or two sensors to indicate brake wear. When you buy the pads, buy the sensors too. They are about $6 from Bowa (the OEM) at Pelican Parts. You can try to use the old sensor, but it is almost impossible to remove it from the old pad. Prior to taking the pads out take a picture of the routing of the wiring to the sensor, and lay the new wire EXACTLY the same way.
Have a wire ready when removing the caliper so it can be supported. Don't but any stress on the hose.
Remove the caliper frame and the rotor. The bolts for the frame are very tight. Make sure to tighten them properly after the new rotor is on. Before putting the new rotor on, use a motorized wire brush to clean the contact surfaces of rust and debris. The rotor centers on the hub, make sure it is as clean as the day it was born.
Use brake cleaner (usually Perchloroethylene) to remove dust from boot prior to resetting the piston. Good idea to clean the wheel contact surface and bolts before reassembly.
Upgrading the brakes requires a fat pocket to replace calipers and rotors, and for everyday driving is not really necessary. The factory brakes are a good choice for road driving. They require the least pedal effort to stop the car. If you have other drivers who are smaller, lightweight, or older consider they might not have the muscle to stop the car in an emergency. If dust is a serious problem for you ceramic pads from Meyle are a good choice. Just be sure to bed the pads, and then get used to how they react when you stomp on the pedal from 50 mph.
If the brake fluid has not been changed for two years, it is time. Use only the specified fluid. Avoid "just like, as good as, or all the mechanics use this" fluids from the countermen.
Don't bother removing some brake fluid before you remove the pads. Instead, crack the bleeder screw at the caliper, put a hose on the bleeder into a container, and when pushing back the pistons, brake fluid is forced out the caliper bleeder screw, and not back up in the system and master cylinder. Brake fluid will damage paintwork instantly.
