2003 C230 factory HID, need ballast
10-11-2013, 04:04 PM
#29
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Taiwanese, I had HID issues with my setup (OEM parts) as well. Here are the steps. If 1) doesn't fix, go to 2), then 3).
1) swap bulbs. I assume you've already done that.
2) swap ballasts. Why? This is much easier than an igniter swap. Confirm both ballasts work first. These are held onto the bottom of each headlight by 3 screws. Yes you will need to remove the driver's (L) side headlight partially, as the washer fluid tank gets in the way.
3) Replace igniters. Actually I had the ones samaritrey posted (aka "2 rubber hoses") go bad twice on me. I would recommend you do NOT get this part.
This is the one you want: AL part# 1-307-329-076. This exact same part is also used as OEM equipment in cars such as Ford, Volvo, BMW, Mini, Audi, and VW, among others, and possibly some other MB lines. Use those search terms to find this part for less. I found a "Volvo" one for some $60 on eBay.
For the record, I did not make this solution up - this was the part MBenzNL sent me after the replacement igniter he sent me (2 rubber hoses) also failed.
The 076 part is also superior to the original for several reasons.
1) you can do this replacement WITHOUT having to remove the headlight, or opening up the seal on the housing. I did this fix on the spot in the garage.
2) The ignition voltage on this one is 30kV, while the original is only 25kV or so iirc. Higher is better (the original ones flickered because the voltage was too low to create an arc), and also means your bulbs last longer! (as HID bulbs age, they need a progressively higher ignition voltage)
3) Oh, and did I mention this part is also half the price of the original, even for used? MB mark-up is bad enough.
1) swap bulbs. I assume you've already done that.
2) swap ballasts. Why? This is much easier than an igniter swap. Confirm both ballasts work first. These are held onto the bottom of each headlight by 3 screws. Yes you will need to remove the driver's (L) side headlight partially, as the washer fluid tank gets in the way.
3) Replace igniters. Actually I had the ones samaritrey posted (aka "2 rubber hoses") go bad twice on me. I would recommend you do NOT get this part.
This is the one you want: AL part# 1-307-329-076. This exact same part is also used as OEM equipment in cars such as Ford, Volvo, BMW, Mini, Audi, and VW, among others, and possibly some other MB lines. Use those search terms to find this part for less. I found a "Volvo" one for some $60 on eBay.
For the record, I did not make this solution up - this was the part MBenzNL sent me after the replacement igniter he sent me (2 rubber hoses) also failed.
The 076 part is also superior to the original for several reasons.
1) you can do this replacement WITHOUT having to remove the headlight, or opening up the seal on the housing. I did this fix on the spot in the garage.
2) The ignition voltage on this one is 30kV, while the original is only 25kV or so iirc. Higher is better (the original ones flickered because the voltage was too low to create an arc), and also means your bulbs last longer! (as HID bulbs age, they need a progressively higher ignition voltage)
3) Oh, and did I mention this part is also half the price of the original, even for used? MB mark-up is bad enough.
After went through 3 different ballasts, I think the igniter is bad. So I ordered and received this part 1-307-329-076. Since this is a retrofit, how did you connect the three wire into the igniter? I need a plastic piece to connect three wires. Then this plastic piece to go into igniter.
Thanks.
10-11-2013, 04:28 PM
#30
Senior Member
Thread Starter
10-13-2013 update
wire lay out should be green, black, red.
The image note below is wrong.
--------------------------------------------------
I used your image to mark what I need.
Need plastic connector, where to buy?
Is this the right order for the wires?
Green wire close to the engine, red then black close to front end of the car?
[IMG]
Uploaded with ImageShack.us[/IMG]
wire lay out should be green, black, red.
The image note below is wrong.
--------------------------------------------------
I used your image to mark what I need.
Need plastic connector, where to buy?
Is this the right order for the wires?
Green wire close to the engine, red then black close to front end of the car?
[IMG]
Uploaded with ImageShack.us[/IMG]
Last edited by Taiwanese; 10-13-2013 at 08:48 PM. Reason: additional info
10-13-2013, 09:07 PM
#33
Senior Member
Thread Starter
salmmer111 is right.
I went to junk yard and purchased a GTI HID headlight. It comes with ballast and wiring harness as pictured.
Cut out the wiring harness to use it here. The igniter was ordered from Amazon.
It worked. My original two ballasts were good.
I should have gotten igniter on day one.
Just follow slammer111's how to on connecting this improved igniter.
Thanks to slammer111.
I went to junk yard and purchased a GTI HID headlight. It comes with ballast and wiring harness as pictured.
Cut out the wiring harness to use it here. The igniter was ordered from Amazon.
It worked. My original two ballasts were good.
I should have gotten igniter on day one.
Just follow slammer111's how to on connecting this improved igniter.
Thanks to slammer111.
10-17-2013, 12:50 AM
#34
Super Moderator
Glad your car is finally fixed as I suspected the dam igniter. I hope that I never have to do the modification to switch to the updated igniters I wonder if keeping new bulbs in the light makes a difference?
10-17-2013, 04:34 AM
#36
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2003 C230K Coupe Orion Blue
salmmer111 is right.
I went to junk yard and purchased a GTI HID headlight. It comes with ballast and wiring harness as pictured.
Cut out the wiring harness to use it here. The igniter was ordered from Amazon.
It worked. My original two ballasts were good.
I should have gotten igniter on day one.
Just follow slammer111's how to on connecting this improved igniter.
Thanks to slammer111.
I went to junk yard and purchased a GTI HID headlight. It comes with ballast and wiring harness as pictured.
Cut out the wiring harness to use it here. The igniter was ordered from Amazon.
It worked. My original two ballasts were good.
I should have gotten igniter on day one.
Just follow slammer111's how to on connecting this improved igniter.
Thanks to slammer111.
Glad to hear the problem is resolved. Enjoy your new error-free HIDs. 
10-17-2013, 05:56 PM
#37
Super Moderator
What I meant about the bulb is that as the bulbs age the gap will increase slowly making it harder to get the arc started. So my theory is that by keeping new bulbs in the car you might not have the igniter issues many people face after a few years. Many people don't know that theses bulbs don't just burn out they color shift causing less and less output. A very good example are some older acuras that have shifted to pink.
01-07-2016, 02:23 PM
#40
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Thread Starter
02-28-2017, 05:45 AM
#41
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AMG GTS
I know I'm reviving a thread from the beyond here, but I am pretty sure my passenger igniter is bad. Going to go with the AL # 1 307 329 076 solution as that seems to have great experiences on all these threads.
I have no issue finding the igniter online; however, I am unable to find the igniter with the appropriate 3-pin connecting wire harness (+wires). Any thoughts on where I can find one? I feel like I've exhausted my iterations of various search phrases to look for it, but every harness I find doesn't seem to match the AL #1-308-329-076 igniter.
I have no issue finding the igniter online; however, I am unable to find the igniter with the appropriate 3-pin connecting wire harness (+wires). Any thoughts on where I can find one? I feel like I've exhausted my iterations of various search phrases to look for it, but every harness I find doesn't seem to match the AL #1-308-329-076 igniter.
02-28-2017, 05:50 PM
#43
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Thanks, slammer111. I reached out to 5 different eBay sellers and so far 3 have responded with them indicating they don't have it. Crossing my fingers the last 2 will.
07-06-2020, 10:33 AM
#44
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2003 CLK320 W209
Hello!
I know it's an old thread and all, but boy it is helpful. I've just retrofitted the 1-307-329-076 puck igniter in the driver's side of my 2003 CLK W209 and thought I'd share a few points for future reference.
1. Connector housing is TE Connectivity PN 1241634-1 with 963715 series crimp-on connectors (small regular Molex crimp), the wires are AWG 20.
2. In my case I found enough wire length within the headlight to attach the connector to the cut, with no additional splicing required. Just get a non-bulky wire stripper and quality crimper.
3. Again in my CLK I found the proper mounting points to hang this puck on: it must be some kind of a standard then. God knows why MB deviated from this built-in universal design in favor of the concealed igniter. Even more bizarre is that MB's own mod to solve the subject issue is still not utilizing these mounts, introducing instead a plug-housing for an inappropriate amount of cash.
3a. Based on the point above the correct order of fitting the puck would be: first install the bulb in the puck, second attach the connector, finally mount the thing in the headlight. This route though the flimsy spring that holds the bulb by default would be redundant and would be in the way and would have to be discarded.
Final note: the time it took me to fit the puck was a lot shorter than the time it took to swap the ballasts around in the course of troubleshooting.
I know it's an old thread and all, but boy it is helpful. I've just retrofitted the 1-307-329-076 puck igniter in the driver's side of my 2003 CLK W209 and thought I'd share a few points for future reference.
1. Connector housing is TE Connectivity PN 1241634-1 with 963715 series crimp-on connectors (small regular Molex crimp), the wires are AWG 20.
2. In my case I found enough wire length within the headlight to attach the connector to the cut, with no additional splicing required. Just get a non-bulky wire stripper and quality crimper.
3. Again in my CLK I found the proper mounting points to hang this puck on: it must be some kind of a standard then. God knows why MB deviated from this built-in universal design in favor of the concealed igniter. Even more bizarre is that MB's own mod to solve the subject issue is still not utilizing these mounts, introducing instead a plug-housing for an inappropriate amount of cash.
3a. Based on the point above the correct order of fitting the puck would be: first install the bulb in the puck, second attach the connector, finally mount the thing in the headlight. This route though the flimsy spring that holds the bulb by default would be redundant and would be in the way and would have to be discarded.
Final note: the time it took me to fit the puck was a lot shorter than the time it took to swap the ballasts around in the course of troubleshooting.
02-23-2021, 05:29 AM
#45
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2003 C230K Coupe Orion Blue
For the W203, the order is actually as follows:
1. Install the bulb in the headlight and secure properly with the headlight wire clips.
2. Click on the igniter by popping on and twisting clockwise, lining up the 4 tabs. The igniter there's a (5th) tab sticking out. I remember breaking it off. It might have some kind of orientation purpose on other cars, but isn't needed on the W203.
3. Install the wire connector. Yes it's a pita to do in this order, but the igniter will not allow this connector to be plugged in unless the puck is twisted into the final position.
1. Install the bulb in the headlight and secure properly with the headlight wire clips.
2. Click on the igniter by popping on and twisting clockwise, lining up the 4 tabs. The igniter there's a (5th) tab sticking out. I remember breaking it off. It might have some kind of orientation purpose on other cars, but isn't needed on the W203.
3. Install the wire connector. Yes it's a pita to do in this order, but the igniter will not allow this connector to be plugged in unless the puck is twisted into the final position.
