Norwichdelta06

I haven't done brakes in 4 years on my car and finally the light came on. Do I need to change the pads and rotors or just the pads? I do not feel any vibration in the wheel when braking and I barely fell any lip around the rotor itself

Norwichdelta06

and to do OEM or not to go OEM on the brakes?

VVF

I would measure the thickness of the rotors for the peace of mind (search for minimums).
Some go with ceramic pads (Pagid pads for instance) - MUCH less dust and longer life vs OEM (C230 Sport Coup has what, about 120k on his front pads?)

Norwichdelta06

is the quietness and the softness of the pedal best with the oems though?

Alswag

Most pads - at least from what I've found - are actually worse than the OEM ones. The OEM pads are fantastic, they just produce a **** load of dust. Ceramics would be the way to go, but they do cost a little more.

jkowtko

I have Pagid pads ... they are definitely not ceramic though ... a lot of dust. but they're quiet and last me about two years. Are you sure you don't mean Akebono ceramic?

If your rotors are the least bit sculpted I would suggest replacing them. For me personally I will always replace them ... the amount of money I am saving on labor makes it well worth buying new rotors with the pads.

bop11

Rotor thickness should be tested every year when your car is inspected. Most states require it. Akebono or Centric ceramic pads and Centric high carbon alloy disks if you need disks. NO dust and no squeal, usually priced below OEM!

tommy

If you want to basically idiot-proof your car, do the rotors and the pads together.

Akebonos had little dust and I didn't notice any additional noise or increase in braking distance when I had OEM brakes. You can get 'em at Tirerack.

svega4290

akebono's are great. i just installed them the other day and had my car washed, so far no dust and they feel great. i personally prefer them over the OEM ones. I picked em up at the Pep Boys in my neighborhood after ordering them online since they're offering 20% off everything original price. They are special order since they do not normally carry akebono.

as for your rotor situation. four years is quite a while especially if you said it was the last time you changed your brake pads. i'd check to see if you are anywhere near the minimum thickness. if you are near that point, id save myself the hassle and kill two birds with one stone.

VVF

Oops... Sure did

C230 Sport Coup

Hard to believe but true.
Was all ready to replace them, had the wheel off, ,pads in hand, and new rotors...and daaamn...it didn't need it.
Of course I have C32 brakes which are overkill to start with.

Norwichdelta06

I did my brakes in less then 30 minutes. This is my 2nd time doing it after purchasing the car used and using anti seize on all the bolts. MAn did that make a huge difference. But going from EBC pads to Akebono back to OEM. I am glad I got the OEM pads. I don't know what rotors I had originally on the car but when I did my first pad change immediately after I bought the car I used Akebono and Balo Rotors. I did like the combo a lot but after going back to OEM PADS and Brakeperformance Zinc rotors. Im glad I went with the OEM. They do leave a crap load of brakedust which I hate but the stopping power and the pedal feel is unmatched. I honestly didn't need to do brakes once I got the pads out. That sensor goes off wayyy to early. I had about 45-50% padding left in comparison to the new pads. I wish there was a way to calibrate that sensor. But I was already into the job and I hated seeing that brake change light so I just did it all again.

Boom vang

The so called 'sensor' is not really a sensor but a very simple device which has 2 wires embedded in plastic inserted within the brake pad. When there is about 10-20% left or low enough it eventually wears through the plastic capsule exposing the 2 wires, these 2 wires are touching the disk which then completes the circuit and you get a message/light. Think of the brake 'sensor' as a light switch, current flows on one wire then to the disk and then across to the other wire completing the circuit. You can not calibrate it, perhaps your pads did not have the hole drilled for the sensor at the right place, and instead was in the middle of the thickness of the pad.

It is never a wise practice to wear down the pads to 35% or less, because having thin pads will actually generate more heat as the metal backing becomes heated more as there is not as much lining to insulate it. More heat = more fade; more heat =potential to warp rotors; more heat=will drive up the temp of the brake fluid

Moviela

That would be 100% wrong. The brake wear sensor does not need any connection through the rotor to function.

The sensor is a wire loop. The control circuit checks that the loop is a closed circuit. This tells the electronics that the sensor is plugged in. When the sensor touches the rotor the friction wears away the wire and the sensor becomes an open circuit. The controller sees the open circuit and alerts the dash with a visit workshop message. There is still about 2mm of pad left. You can safely drive hundreds of miles before there is any safety concern. Few people can drop everything and visit the dealer because of a warning.

Norwichdelta06

so basically I didn't need new brakes. Don't know why the light kept going on.


not bad for 4 years of the same pads