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2011 Mercedes Benz C300 4Matic, 1997 Mercedes benz C280 Sport, 2014 Toyota Camry LE, 2004 C230 SOLD
Confused with Different Independent Shop Advices.
I'm really confused if I really need a conductor plate or not. I usually experience the jolt on my car, 2004.5 C230K, when I am stopping at the intersection. I feels like somebody is pushing me and it's really annoying. I also noticed my tachometer needle goes up every time I experience the jolt. But I have no check engine light and had my tranny service like 1,5k miles ago. So I took it the first independent shop and the SA said that it could be my conductor plate. He showed to me the "updated" conductor plate which he said it has better sealing. He also added that bad conductor plate usually doesn't turn the check engine light on. Somehow I am expecting to hear this because I know my conductor plate has 124k miles on it. Maybe it's already due to replace. He quoted me $1,200 to replace it.
Then I brought it to the second independent shop for another quote. He test drove my car and they said I don't need one. He also added that my check engine light should be on if my conductor plate and speed sensors are bad. Then I was planning to take it to the dealer but they will charge me $170 just to diagnose it. I don't know what to do. I just want my car to be free of leaks and reliable. I need advise because I don't know who to trust. I would like to hear your advise before I dump another money in this car.
late 2009 CLK 350 Coupe Elegance, '65 Jaguar S Type wires
I presume this happens when you are braking normally to a stop? Not accelerating hard & then jamming on the brakes. The second condition when driving roughly can be caused by you catching out the torque converter clutch & causing a jolt.
The first condition when driving in civilised fashion can be that you don't have the latest software flash on your TCU. The condition is more prevalent on the 722.9 but also shows up on the 5 speed. There is a large range change from second to first gear & coming to a halt in first can cause a jolt on the downchange & that pushing sensation. With the latest software flash the cars actually pulls up in 2nd gear & only changes to first once stationary, ready for take off in S mode or it will pull away in first in C mode if you apply over 75% throttle.
The problem can be exacerbated by any driveline play. Check rear transmission mount, Propshaft flex discs, Centre hanger bearing & grease the slide/spline.
Before you start messing around with conductor plates make sure you have the latest software flash.
On the 5 speed, if the conductor plate is failing it almost alway throws a turbine speed sensor implausible code.
Good luck!
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; Aug 12, 2014 at 09:20 AM.
2011 Mercedes Benz C300 4Matic, 1997 Mercedes benz C280 Sport, 2014 Toyota Camry LE, 2004 C230 SOLD
Thanks Glyn. Yes, I only experience this when I am stopping. I don't drive hard at all because I baby my cars. When I had my main seal and transmission seal replaced, I asked the independent shop to check everything I need to replace at the driveline area including the mounts and they said they are good and intact. In fact, when I had my headlights aligned at the Mercedes dealer and charged me $140, they said that my car is currently in good shape except my main seal is seeping (independent shop took care of it).
Is it possible that I have codes but it doesn't trigger my check engine light to turn on? I'm thinking maybe the dealer has a "special" scanner that only them could read. Do you think I shold take my car to the dealer for TCU reflash? Thanks Glyn for sharing your expertise.
late 2009 CLK 350 Coupe Elegance, '65 Jaguar S Type wires
Yes you could be storing codes. A standard OBDII scanner will not read Benz transmission codes. You need a Star or Snap On Solus or similar to do that.
I would have the car checked for codes & get a dealer to check your software flash/version & reflash if necessary.
Hey Glyn, what grease do you recommend and can you specify which spline to grease?
I want to check into that. I sometimes hear a weird metal squeak when parking and switching from D to P. Almost like brakes are squeaking, but I believe it's from the prop shaft...
I presume this happens when you are braking normally to a stop? Not accelerating hard & then jamming on the brakes. The second condition when driving roughly can be caused by you catching out the torque converter clutch & causing a jolt.
The first condition when driving in civilised fashion can be that you don't have the latest software flash on your TCU. The condition is more prevalent on the 722.9 but also shows up on the 5 speed. There is a large range change from second to first gear & coming to a halt in first can cause a jolt on the downchange & that pushing sensation. With the latest software flash the cars actually pulls up in 2nd gear & only changes to first once stationary, ready for take off in S mode or it will pull away in first in C mode if you apply over 75% throttle.
The problem can be exacerbated by any driveline play. Check rear transmission mount, Propshaft flex discs, Centre hanger bearing & grease the slide/spline.
Before you start messing around with conductor plates make sure you have the latest software flash.
On the 5 speed, if the conductor plate is failing it almost alway throws a turbine speed sensor implausible code.
2011 Mercedes Benz C300 4Matic, 1997 Mercedes benz C280 Sport, 2014 Toyota Camry LE, 2004 C230 SOLD
Hi Glyn, my car is currently at the dealer right now. The SA told me I need to replace the following parts, Pilot Bushing, lock pin, Electric cable, Reman EGS52 TCM. Initially my bill is $2,078.72. Then I thought I better get rid of my car cos I spent so much money on this car already. Then I started looking at the used cars, and saw a 2010 W204 C300 that will fit my budget. But I realize that if I will buy an newer C-class, I will be back to repairs again like what I did to my current W203 and of course I need to write them a check for the difference (I don't like car payments so I usually buy cash). So I told my SA to just proceed with the repair and replace the conductor plate too for general purposes. My total will be $2,840 including 15% discount and I will get my car on Thursday. I hope I made a good decision keeping my car and not buying the w204.
late 2009 CLK 350 Coupe Elegance, '65 Jaguar S Type wires
Damn ~ that means the good old electrohydraulic bush has leaked & fluid has wicked up the harness & into the TCU/TCM. I would query why they are replacing the TCM. Won't it respond to cleaning with switch cleaner or is it fried?
Why are you doing the conductor plate? Did they find some codes?
You probably made the right decision. Sometimes better the devil you know. In SA it would have certainly been the right decision because the cars hold value here.
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; Aug 13, 2014 at 10:45 AM.
2011 Mercedes Benz C300 4Matic, 1997 Mercedes benz C280 Sport, 2014 Toyota Camry LE, 2004 C230 SOLD
Hi Glyn. I am now going to sell my W203. I took it to an independent shop and he said there is nothing wrong with it. So he just cleaned the TCM and it seems to be fine. Nothing wrong with the conductor plate they said. It's just a "typical 4 cylinder C230" they said. But now I want to have peace of mind. So I went to another Mercedes dealer today and saw this beautiful certified preowned 2010 C300. So I dealt with it , wrote a check and now it's in my garage. The dealer was so nice that they gave me 5 days to sell my W203 and if I couldn't sell it, they will buy it.
So goodbye W203 and hello W204. Glyn, you an expert. So see you everywhere here in MB world and you will always have my respect.
Good to hear that u already found a new "soulmate"
Just for another member information,
The conductor plate in our car is actually indeed has some weakness, especially in design. Not to say that the part or the material isn't good, but in the original design (before revision), the electronic connector is actually also act as the bridge to the speed sensor plate, make it kinda vulnerable.
Regarding CEL, it's no always light up directly when something is goin wrong,
For "small matters" i guess it takes up to 10 or 15 codes/repetition to actually bring the light up.
My conductor plate gone bad few weeks ago, but CEL never light up. I only able to know the plate is the problem after Star diagnosis.
My indy shop replace it for me, and also flush the tranny fluid (since it need to be opened anyway)
The price was pretty cheap, the conductor plate itself + service only cost me like $250. The MB fluid cost me $13 / L (use 9 when flushing) and the tranny oil filter is $22.
And best thing is, this shop always let me see & bring the broken old part, so i know it really changed.
Just for the sake of curiousity, i go to the dealer and ask them to quote me for the same part n service,
No surprise here, they quoted me $500++ alone for the plate, and another $500++ for the tranny flush, not incl service n tax.
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Confused with Different Independent Shop Advices.
