C-Class (W203) 2001-2007, C160, C180, C200, C220, C230, C240, C270, C280, C300, C320, C230K, C350, Coupe

Battery change damaged the elecrical system?

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Old Dec 24, 2014 | 09:17 AM
  #1  
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2000 C 220 CDI W203
Angry Battery change damaged the elecrical system?

Hi!

My Honda Hybrid snowblower went out of battery, so i had to use 2*12v car batteries to charge it up.
But when I put the battery back into the Mercedes, something wierd happened.

Here's the problems:
- Trunk does not open, only manually with the key.
- Turn signal lights does not work.
- The hazard lights does not work.
- Got an error message about ESP not working, which went away after driving the car and turning the wheels to the left and right.
- Fuel guage at zero all the time.
- Error message: "Display Faulty, Visit Workshop!"

Have contacted a guy who knows a little bit about cars, and he said there was probably something wrong with the rear SAM (he analyzed with a computer). We changed almost all the fuses, but it didn't work. Changed fuses in the other fuse boxes too.
Been with a Mercedes repairer (a guy who has his own personal Mercedes workshop after quitting at Mercedes) and he thought the same. But there is electricity going into the rear SAM box.

Bought a new rear SAM box from Mercedes, but shouldn't the hardware number and such be the same as the original in the car?
Changed the SAM, but nothing changed. The Mercedes guy is starting to wonder what the problem can be now.

What do you guys think the problem is?
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Old Dec 24, 2014 | 10:43 AM
  #2  
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2002 C230 Coupe
I would first check the sticky on faults caused by battery change.
And if charge was low on the battery you put back in that can trigger other faults, so make sure that it's fully charged.
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Old Dec 24, 2014 | 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by KSKarl
I would first check the sticky on faults caused by battery change.
And if charge was low on the battery you put back in that can trigger other faults, so make sure that it's fully charged.
Thank you for answering!

I have searched alot about this issue, and have also read the thread you said. It was a bummer that I made a whole new thread when I could have written in that sticky, sorry. Mods can delete this if they want to.

I don't think the battery is low on charge, since the car has been driven almost 1000km since it happened. There were no troubles before we reconnected the battery either.

After reading the thread you are referring to again, the most obvious solution is that the rear SAM blowed up when we reconnected the battery. 2000-2002 w203 models is also more prone to this.

But why doesn't it work with a brand new SAM?
It doesn't look like the rear SAM need any reprogramming by what I have read. Or did I get the wrong SAM by MB, since the hardware and model number on the SAM is different than the original in the car?
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Old Dec 24, 2014 | 01:57 PM
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2001 C320 w/ Sprt Pkg
I am dreading the day I have to change my battery. It is starting to show signs of needing a change, so I think near the end of 2015 will be the time to do it. It is the one thing I will go directly to MB for. If they eff it up, they will have to fix it.

I can't for the life of me understand why removing a battery and replacing it causes such hassles. I've owned a few cars that I've done the battery change MYSELF on (the 300 had it in the wheel well, total pain to do) and never had any issues.

Like KSKarl said, check the battery errors thread. It may have the answer you need. From what I have read, it is not uncommon to fry something when reconnecting the battery. Good luck!
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Old Dec 24, 2014 | 03:37 PM
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Just connect an aux battery to the terminal under the hood and change the main one away
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Old Dec 24, 2014 | 03:53 PM
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Originally Posted by VVF
Just connect an aux battery to the terminal under the hood and change the main one away
Can you please explain what you mentioned more specific. Do you know about any tutorial or videos that show how you do it?

Thank you for answering me!
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Old Dec 24, 2014 | 04:12 PM
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Originally Posted by neurodave
I am dreading the day I have to change my battery. It is starting to show signs of needing a change, so I think near the end of 2015 will be the time to do it. It is the one thing I will go directly to MB for. If they eff it up, they will have to fix it.

I can't for the life of me understand why removing a battery and replacing it causes such hassles. I've owned a few cars that I've done the battery change MYSELF on (the 300 had it in the wheel well, total pain to do) and never had any issues.

Like KSKarl said, check the battery errors thread. It may have the answer you need. From what I have read, it is not uncommon to fry something when reconnecting the battery. Good luck!
I think I know what we did wrong now. We probably disconnected the positive before the negative, which may result in damage to the electrical system (after what I've read afterwards). I had never heard about that before. Now I now, and I'll remember that one.
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Old Dec 24, 2014 | 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by TeeVee
Can you please explain what you mentioned more specific. Do you know about any tutorial or videos that show how you do it?

Thank you for answering me!


See the red cover opposite the strut tower, that's an auxiliary positive terminal. You can connect a battery + to there and - to the chassis and that way you won't lose power while swapping the main battery.

As to rear SAM, I think some adaptation is necessary. There have been a couple of threads where people replaced their messed up SAMs, so you might want to search for those.

Good luck
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Old Dec 24, 2014 | 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by TeeVee
Can you please explain what you mentioned more specific. Do you know about any tutorial or videos that show how you do it?

Thank you for answering me!
I think I misunderstood you. You mean when I'm gonna change the battery later, right? So the car doesn't loose electricity while changing it?
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Old Dec 24, 2014 | 04:38 PM
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Originally Posted by VVF
BENZWERKS C-CLASS(203) BATTERY REMOVAL - YouTube

See the red cover opposite the strut tower, that's an auxiliary positive terminal. You can connect a battery + to there and - to the chassis and that way you won't lose power while swapping the main battery.

As to rear SAM, I think some adaptation is necessary. There have been a couple of threads where people replaced their messed up SAMs, so you might want to search for those.

Good luck
Thank you!

I will look into that!
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Old Dec 24, 2014 | 04:51 PM
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Originally Posted by TeeVee
I think I misunderstood you. You mean when I'm gonna change the battery later, right? So the car doesn't loose electricity while changing it?
Yes, you got it

Anyway, it's a shame how these cars are so sensitive to disconnecting the battery...
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Old Dec 24, 2014 | 04:52 PM
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I have done a little research, and it doesn't look like the rear SAM need any coding/adaptation/programming to get "installed" in the car ("It will just start working").
Wierd stuff. Electricity is reaching the SAM box, since we tested out the current in the wires.

Looks like we have to visit the MB shop in the city (which is VERY expensive in Norway ). The MB expert that have taken a look at the car said that the car may have to be reprogrammed with a special software that has to be downloaded from a server in Stuttgart.

I'll update when I find out something more. Thanks for the replies so far, and further answers is very appreciated!
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Old Dec 25, 2014 | 02:25 AM
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What about if you had something like this hooked up? This should save all the settings so nothing should get reprogrammed.

http://www.ecstuning.com/Mercedes_Be...ery/ES2748866/
Attached Thumbnails Battery change damaged the elecrical system?-614293_x800.jpg  
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Old Dec 25, 2014 | 02:31 AM
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Why spend money get a friend, hook up jumper cables from the battery in their car.
Or maybe "borrow" a battery from a parts store.
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Old Dec 26, 2014 | 10:03 AM
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Problem SOLVED!

The lithuanian car repairer came and took another look at the car. The rear SAM had to be installed in the rights steps (the wires), not just randomly. The old rear SAM was dead, or at least some parts of it.

The new rear SAM didn't need to have the same hardware numbers, since this has probably changed over the years (the MB dealer just search up the registration number on the car and get the right parts anyway, no problem).

Conclusion:

The problem was most likely either caused by taking off and setting up the poles in the wrong steps (you should take of the ground/negative first and then positive, the opposite way when connecting again) or leaving the car too long without power. The 2000-2002 Mercedes cars is especially vurnerable to this problem since the electrical system gets problems to reboot after staying without power.

Last edited by TeeVee; Dec 26, 2014 at 10:09 AM.
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