lowglide84

Hi from the new kid in town. I'm not farmiliar with blogging and stuff so I hope you'll bear with me as I learn. I recently picked up a 2002 C230 coupe made for Canada but now mine in Texas. I'll post some pics when I get a few, if it doesn't get flooded first, lol. The speedo is Km but the computer of course has mph. I'm having an intermittent daytime running lights issue (headlights are hid's). Sometimes the lowbeam out indicator shows on 1 or the other, sometimes both lowbeams. Unless I turn on the headlights before starting the engine, otherwise its fine. I'd like to get rid of the drls and can't thru the menu as it's not an option on cars made for Canada and dealers don't want to touch it for that reason. I'm a electronics tech so I can modify a module with a schematic of it or do some rewiring if needed. Many ideas? Link to some schematics? I can't be the only guy with a Canadian model of this coupe dealing with this. Would adding a swict throw a code in the ecm?
Thanks to the Benz gods here who can inject some wisdom, I'm not finding any leads anywhere.

samaritrey

So your HIDS are aftermarket?
All you need to do is find someone with a star computer to program the computer to xenon=present as long as you are using a decent quality hid kit it will fix your error messages.

The computer doesn't check the wattage draw when you turn the lights on before the car that is why it works when you do that.

If you want to disable the DRL's you should be able to also do that with star. I have never plugged into a Canadian car or ever looked for that setting on my cars.

lowglide84

Hi samaritrey, Thanks for your response. Yes the hid's came on the car when I bought it and I'm pretty sure they are aftermarket. The relay for them is ice-cube size and is mounted to the back of the fuse panel on the left side of the dash (behind the headlight switch). Black electrical tape was used to insulate the quick connects used. All 4 wires are black. So I'd say aftermarket. I was thinking of just adding a switch to the coil ground but I'd rather just do it in the software. I'm not familiar with star but I know a guy who uses alldata. I'll ask if he can do it. I'm also thinking of checking out Scantool's interface and OBDwiz software but I'm not sure it'll do. Thanks again, I'll post the results of this when I get it figured out.

jcnash

Ive had experience with a Canadian coupe and this exact same issue.

Option 1: As samaritrey suggested, you'll have to plug into the STAR computer to change two settings:
1. Set xenon = present so the computer knows that to expect the voltage draw necessary for HID headlights as opposed to regular halogen lights. If it expects to see the halogen voltage draw but actually sees the HID voltage draw (which is MUCH higher), it will throw an error on your dash.

2. Set car/dash location = USA. This will enable the option to turn off the DRLs using your steering controls. You can then decide to either keep them on or turn them off based on your preference.

Option 2: You'll have to pick up "error cancellers" from the HID manufacturer for the HIDS you have (based on type, temperature, wattage of HIDs) and install this in series between the HID ballast (module) and the actual bulb). This is hit or miss and works in some cases and doesn't in others.

If you go with option 2, there is no way to turn off your DRLs. This will (might) only get rid of the dash errors.

samaritrey

A few corections:
Option 1.
The reason the computer gets pissed is not because of a higher voltage draw both lights draw 12 volts like everything else its the wattage draw. Halogen Draws 55watts and most of the hid kits/real hid draws 35watts.
Option 2.
The error cancelers don't go between the hid ballast and the bulb they go between the car power and the Ballast.

Back to the OP though I would honestly consider tacking out everything done by the previous owner and either doing your own setup or just going back to stock. I have no clue why someone would put any wiring behind the light switch or anything like that as the wiring built into the headlight is more than capable of running the hid it.

lowglide84

I don't get alot of time to get to the issue. As a "lead-man" at work I'm busy, and finally the flood waters in Texas are subsiding so yard work long overdue can now get done without hip waders, lol.
Interesting about the relay thing. If I can trace it out I'm now curious what it's doing if not needed.

I saw this online and am considering it if can do what I'm needing.
https://www.autoenginuity.com/products/scan-tool.html
Not much in the way of knowledgeable MB guys this far north of town. Most locals end up going to Houston. I'm hoping to avoid that every time I need to get into the computer.

I'm also hearing that the large heart shaped dash vent causing the windshield to condensate like mad every morning until the sun comes out is common. I can't figure why it's even there. I just cover it usually. Even with it off it still happens. I may have a duct door issue in there. I haven't had a MB dash apart, yet lol.

samaritrey

Don't spend $250 on that when you can get a star system for not much more (I have seen them go anywhere from $350-500) and have the proper tools. You will need a decent laptop to run it though as you have to run it in a VM or dedicate an old dell/ibm to it.

As for you condensation issue MB put out a new metal plate that was supposed to fixed that no clue if it worked I just closed that vent (don't know if your car has the thumb wheel in the center to do that)

Yeah no clue about that relay I would look into all that wiring to be sure it wasn't done badly or anything.

lowglide84

i disconnected that relay coil ground yesterday. car says running, lights stay on but dash lights and display dead. I still need to follow the relay contact wires. Why a relay for that was needed I don't know. The clock resets to 12am every time the ignition on turned on, but it has something to do with it. I'll look some more at lunch today.
I found a new local dealer about 15 mi away in woodlands tx that will do the computer change.... for $300. I think I'm wanting to buy a system to do it for a little more and have it for future use. I'll look into star some more.
It's supposed to be nice here this weekend. I'll try to wash/wax and get a few pics to post. I paid $4000 for the car. So far.... paint bubbling in a few spots so needs paint, intsalled new brakes, rotors, shocks, struts, springs, ball joints and a controller arm. At 120kmi I'm about ready to surpass the car's value with investments. Soon to add back-up cam. All work done mostly myself so far.

lowglide84

Here's a few pics I took today.