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Yes, the dreaded problem of P2006: intake manifold runner control circuit has detected a stuck closed intake runner flap for bank 1 due to fail swirl flap lever
Has anyone repaired theirs?
If so, which kit did you end up using, I am thinking about this one:
Yes, the dreaded problem of P2006: intake manifold runner control circuit has detected a stuck closed intake runner flap for bank 1 due to fail swirl flap lever
Has anyone repaired theirs?
If so, which kit did you end up using, I am thinking about this one:
looks promising, please share your experience with this sort of issue if you have any, thank you.
I know this is an older post, but I got lucky and was able to fix mine without taking the intake off, the main actuator arm just popped off the balljoint, and I used a set of 12 inch hooks to get it back on, I feel very lucky that's all it was. I know it's hard to see in the pic but that's about all I had to work with lol.
I was able to reconnect the swirl flap actuator, it happened to just pop out if the balljoint and not be snapped like most. (2006 C280 W203)
Just did mine last week I watched a you tube video along the way pausing when necessary I got the metal repair kit of eBay my middle one was not connected anyway once out I cleaned it all up a replaced the metal part put a lil grease into what they snap into
it’s not too bad gives you a chance to clean fuel injection gaskets hardest part is gasket staying still when dropping back in
double check everything once you’re done I missed plugging in a sensor that gave me 10 different codes and ran like **** but once I found it , it was the intake manifold temperature sensor in back once I fixed that she ran perfect
Just did mine last week I watched a you tube video along the way pausing when necessary I got the metal repair kit of eBay my middle one was not connected anyway once out I cleaned it all up a replaced the metal part put a lil grease into what they snap into
it’s not too bad gives you a chance to clean fuel injection gaskets hardest part is gasket staying still when dropping back in
double check everything once you’re done I missed plugging in a sensor that gave me 10 different codes and ran like **** but once I found it , it was the intake manifold temperature sensor in back once I fixed that she ran perfect
well just popping the arm back on didn't last for long to me. looks like I will have to take the intake off and get a repair kit, it popped off again. so I am guessing that it sat for awhile before I bought it, I noticed the actuator was pretty stiff, hit it with pb blaster and it moved freely. I am just delaying delaying enevitable of removing the intake. I'm just so worried I will mess it up!
Best is to remove and strip manifold. If flaps are crack broken or worn.. you have 2 options. New manifold. Or remove the flaps and blank the hole and program ecu for no flaps
C230 Sport Coup + 2006 W164 ML350 + 99 Ford Escort RIP
Potato chip flaps.
Once they start to go, no choice but to replace manifold.
Peirson is fine, or is it Pierman?
Our was toast on ML350, had it replaced when balance shaft was done.
Amazingly ALL the flaps were gone, and had been sucked through the engine, but
compression was till good.
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CEL P2006 W203 "stuck runner flap"
