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I have been trying to look for the solution but couldnt find one. I have 2002 C240. 2.6L. Few days ago stopped at one place and then it didnt start. On inspection it was found out that fuel pump is not powering up.
So had to replace it. It was on right side behind driver's seat. Image of the whole part we replaced;
Car started up on first instance however gauge is not working . Sometimes it goes above half tank and sometime stays at zero.
Not sure what is the problem. Do we need to change anything else or reset the system? Or level indicator was faulty on this new pump?
Also on the site from where we bought this pump, it was written "Other Information : Level sensor 46822039 may also be required"
If this is causing the problem then where would we need to install this one? On right side tank behind driver's or left side?
Thanks. So basically will have to change left unit as well. Will sort that out. Many thanks for your help.
Several updates are made with that fuel pump and sender units.
To avoid guessing game, it's best to replace both pump+sender and the filter+sender unit together.
Several updates are made with that fuel pump and sender units.
To avoid guessing game, it's best to replace both pump+sender and the filter+sender unit together.
Hi, thanks yes pump is already changed so now thinking to change left side unit. thanks
MB did an upgrade packages as test beds around that time for the new motors and electrics.
MB use both resistor and MAPPS (magnetic) sender units.
The good news that both are the same as how the clip on the pump housings and they are very quick to swap out.
NOTE the MAPPS magnet is very small and lost easily
if you post a pic of your old and new sender units we can tell you what sort they are is.
rule of thumb is on the w203 chassis
if you have an air Cond unit that has 4 knobs on it you will have a resistor sender unit.
if your air Cond unit has only 2 knobs and red and blue temp buttons the senders should be mapps
by the way the picture us showed us has a resistor sender on it./
on the other hand if you have already swapped the sender over and the sender is still faulty then check that the sender card is seated firmly on the bottom of it frame it sits in.
This is very important for the MAPPS sender card. 1mm out and it wont read..
BTW as you stated the fuel gauges rises as the car is parked then drops as you drive it is the pump sender that is defective.
the pump is a swirl pot style that syphons the far side dry as the pump runs. This is done by low pressure across the transfer pipe causing a syphon effect that is not reliant on a mechanical pump.
MB did an upgrade packages as test beds around that time for the new motors and electrics.
MB use both resistor and MAPPS (magnetic) sender units.
The good news that both are the same as how the clip on the pump housings and they are very quick to swap out.
NOTE the MAPPS magnet is very small and lost easily
if you post a pic of your old and new sender units we can tell you what sort they are is.
rule of thumb is on the w203 chassis
if you have an air Cond unit that has 4 knobs on it you will have a resistor sender unit.
if your air Cond unit has only 2 knobs and red and blue temp buttons the senders should be mapps
by the way the picture us showed us has a resistor sender on it./
on the other hand if you have already swapped the sender over and the sender is still faulty then check that the sender card is seated firmly on the bottom of it frame it sits in.
This is very important for the MAPPS sender card. 1mm out and it wont read..
BTW as you stated the fuel gauges rises as the car is parked then drops as you drive it is the pump sender that is defective.
the pump is a swirl pot style that syphons the far side dry as the pump runs. This is done by low pressure across the transfer pipe causing a syphon effect that is not reliant on a mechanical pump.
Hi, thank you for a very informative post. Really helpful info.
Havent done anything since then. The image i attached was of the new unit we got. It was on the right side behind drivers.
The problem i faced was that i didnt noticed gauge for 4-5 days. As i didnt drive it much during those days. And filled the tank more than half mark just a day before pump stopped. So i thought its showing me right amount as it should have that much fuel. When noticed that its not moving after few days then i checked with the local garage who changed it and they already thrown old one in the bins. 😔
The gauge doesnt go to zero when i drive. It stays to 3/4 or 1/2 mark. Only sometimes when i start or refuel it stays to zero for a while. But thats only sometimes. Mostly at 3/4 or 1/2 mark. Am just driving on my guess at the moment.
As i haven't got any access to old pump unit now so that option of swapping it is out of window. Was thinking to look for the unit from scrappers for same model and try swapping instead of changing left side. I think thats the best option i have right now?
I don't understand why you're having issues...I've changed a few w203 fuel pumps (both Bosch and Pierburg) without changing the sender and never had a problem. What brand pump did you use? Stick with OEM or equivalent..
I don't understand why you're having issues...I've changed a few w203 fuel pumps (both Bosch and Pierburg) without changing the sender and never had a problem. What brand pump did you use? Stick with OEM or equivalent..
09-09-2017, 03:13 AM
