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2003 C240 87k miles.
Required
It needs a power steering pump (it's whining), brakes and top cover gasket. I plan to wrench these myself.
History:
@ 60k transmission was serviced and a new alternator installed, @80k it got a new top cover and gasket, a new battery 2 years ago and an oil change 1 year ago. Car has been parked most of the last 4 years and only occasionally driven to run errands.
1-I wanted to know while I get ready to do the above (mainly the PS pump) what else should I get done 87k miles so that I can get them together. Is there a sticky that shows what's needed maintenance at x miles?
2-Do you guys order from RockAuto or what's your go to shop?
3-It had a bunch of old codes cleared, driven 100 miles and 1 week later none of these codes showed up again. However, poking around some more (we didn't check these last week) these came up. Can you guys shed more light on these and the needed fixes? Car has no cel and it drives great.
C230 Sport Coup + 2006 W164 ML350 + 99 Ford Escort (What the heck, it gets 38 mpg!)
I'd flush all the fluids if it was me.
See attached service sheet.
As far as the code for the footwell, likely the flaps are broken or the motor(s).
There's a trick to a diagnostic of the climate control, you push the defrost and recirc buttons hold them down (or some other buttons)?, and the lights will start
flashing back and forth, supposed to sync everything. If it doesn't stop on it's own, it means one or more of the flaps aren't working. There are threads on that here somewhere.
Mine quit some years ago.
Fixing it mean removing the entire dash, which is like an 8 hour job each way but amazingly there IS a guide here somewhere from some crazy basturd who actually did it, with photos!
And then 'while you're in there' you'll want to replace all the flaps and motors.
So mine is stuck open. My feet get cooked in winter, and frozen in summer, but oh well.
Local indy was doing this job when I stopped in one day, wow what a mess.
16 hours labor plus parts, like $2500. Probably more than the car was worth at the time.
Blower regulator? No idea, but check the fuse for the blower. Mine blew after like 10 years of use, and practically melted the
fuse block along with it. 20 amp I think. Replaced and working fine since.
Canbus errors? I always get this error, but still can rear the codes so wtf? No idea.
What are you using to read the codes? Looks like SDS?
I just finally obtained a iCarsoft unit.
You won't find much on rock auto for these cars, lot of threads on best place to order parts.
I have a wholesale account at the local dealership, since I sell on ebay and have a resale license.
Last edited by C230 Sport Coup; 01-18-2018 at 01:31 PM.
As for buying parts:
Pelican Parts. https://www.pelicanparts.com/
They are also a site sponsor. So, I can leg-hump them as much as I want. :-)
A friend told me about them. And, I was blown away when I did my first order with them, but had a simple question about shipping parts in two separate orders.
Then, *I* order a lot directly from Dealerships.
My preference is one in NYC. They are close, they ship fast, and have a good stock.
Also, there's a big dealership in GA (Atlanta?) that I also order from.
Imho, stay FAR FAR FAR away from anything sold on ebay. Unless, it's from a verifiable dealer, or well-known store (like Summit, JEGS, etc).
As for the errors, that first one means you're screwed. :-)
It's saying that the scanner can't talk to the ECU/ECM.
Can you read the RPMs, throttle position, MAF, etc?
I'd flush all the fluids if it was me.
See attached service sheet.
As far as the code for the footwell, likely the flaps are broken or the motor(s)....
Thanx for the list. It simplifies things. However, I didn't see covered on there - water pump, oil pump, serpentine belt, pulleys, auto tranny service, etc.
I read about the tap tap sound and this car has it. So I guess this is a present problem. 16 hours...a dedication I am skipping for now.
"So mine is stuck open. My feet get cooked in winter, and frozen in summer, but oh well."
Last summer I decided to remove thermostat in my Camry. Call ran cool but it's not I mean not geting warm in winter. It's way more than I expected and I think I will have to make a habit of re-installing it just before winter. Question is to counter what you said above can the cars run ok without a thermostat in summer and with it in winter? I am ok with removal/re-install because I am always in my garage tinkering with our cars.
"What are you using to read the codes? Looks like SDS?"
I don't know. That's my German cars tech guy, it's hand held unit, not familiar with them. I have to take another C240 for a PPI to this guy (80 bux) shortly. The car is fine but my cheapy ELM327/Torque is only limited to engine codes of course. So I was thinking about acquiring an inexpensive unit but one that can additionally read codes tranny, Airbag, etc. and if possible across different manufacturers viz MB, BMW, Toyota. What do you guys use? Have you used iCarsoft on different manufacturers? What is it able to read? Do you recommend it?
As for the errors, that first one means you're screwed. :-)
It's saying that the scanner can't talk to the ECU/ECM.
Can you read the RPMs, throttle position, MAF, etc?
I don't quite follow, can you expound further? Will this affect car drivability and passing annual emissions tests?
Can this be read using ELM327 and Torque? I will connect and post. I am just not familiar with what to do with all that data, beyond the normal Engine faults.
What code reader do you use? Beyond engine codes does it read ABS, transmission, SRS, etc?
Hey guys I went to check out this 2002 C240 60k miles.
For the year the car is in relatively good condition, smooth engine and shifting. Connected an ELM237/Torque app and it returned codes P0300, P0302, P0303 see screenshots below
2 things I noticed,
1-
When you shift between R or D there is a slight kling noise from the bottom of the transmission that sounds like a loose plate oe something that's come-a-loose. It doesn't affect the car shifting but since I am **** about noises I noticed it. Their MB certified tech says it's a small loose plate or ring that needs to be tightened but to get to it he would estimate about 300 bux simply because of what he has to remove around the tranns, to tighten it. He says that it's just not worth it and it has no progression to become worse, nor is anything dependent on it, that it might go bad. Are you guys familiar with what would make such a slight noise? Should I buy what the tech is selling?
2-
Torque threw the below errors. Also when you turn the key off this message pops on the dash "1 Malfunction." Are these serious/costly? Can you guys point me to their fixes?
I don't quite follow, can you expound further? Will this affect car drivability and passing annual emissions tests?
Can this be read using ELM327 and Torque? I will connect and post. I am just not familiar with what to do with all that data, beyond the normal Engine faults.
What code reader do you use? Beyond engine codes does it read ABS, transmission, SRS, etc?
Wow, it's down to $150!
Imho, if someone doesn't buy one of these (or have an SDS), then DON'T EVEN TOUCH THE *******ING HOOD RELEASE!!!
The iCarSoft will read "just about" all of the CAN-busses, and devices, and show the error codes. It can clear most errors.
You can buy an SDS China "clone" on ebay (or direct) for ~~$600 (used laptop) -> ~~$1100 (used Windows Rugged Tablet).
The SDS lets someone do specific diagnostic tests, and also change parameters. Note, a lot of the special functions are in German Only.
I like both.
The iCarSoft is a great stand-alone scanner. That's what's needed 98% of the time.
A laptop is cumbersome, to say the least. *I* don't like the tablet, because the flash drive will die eventually. And, there's no way of knowing, before you buy the tablet, how much life is left on the embedded flash-drive. Plus, I prefer a PC, and keyboard.
Again, I have the iCarSoft already for my ~98% scanning needs.
Fwiw, I do something similar with my GM cars. I use a nice standalone scanner. Then, when I have to, I pull out the big clunky GM Dealer Tech-II scanner. Then, if I really have to, I have a GM data-logger.
Last summer I decided to remove thermostat in my Camry. Call ran cool but it's not I mean not geting warm in winter. It's way more than I expected and I think I will have to make a habit of re-installing it just before winter. Question is to counter what you said above can the cars run ok without a thermostat in summer and with it in winter? I am ok with removal/re-install because I am always in my garage tinkering with our cars.
Please, never ever ever ever run an engine without a thermostat.
It greatly wears the engine and components, it mega screws up the cats, and the control system is saying &*$@!
Toyota makes very good cars and engines, but says *screw you word* when it comes to detailed engine and car data logging. Imho, that also adds to why Toyota's get riced out. People don't know, and can't tell, how they are screwing up the engine/etc.
With GM and Ford, we can read a lot of the CAN data, we can modify a lot of ECU/ECMs, and we know a lot of the details for the engine control algorithms. I was doing machine language additions, and byte level PROM (memory) changes on my Mustang back in the 90's.
So, when people say things like "adjust the TPS" on a Ford, we can even point directly to the lines code in the code that shows that mod is 110% ricer.
Knowing why thermostats are needed for engines is kinda high-school level physics (from a good high-school). Many grade-schoolers in the FIRST programs ( https://www.firstinspires.org/ ) also kinda know why.
Although, imho, it really takes a number of mechanical engineering courses, and some grad courses, to better appreciate why. And, to better understand the theories and reasons (verses "it is - because it is" ).
Please, never ever ever ever run an engine without a thermostat..
Ok great. May be i did go to a bad high school or its from listening to my old school friends. I have to work on an oil leak this weekend so I plan to reinstall it.
Any words on the questions on that 2002 C240?
Btw the car has 60k miles not 77k.
Have seen both of the following. At $150 for both that's fits in my budget. I don't have experience with either. From your experience which has larger coverage, and covers the most cars?
1- iCarSoft Mercedes/Smart MB II <- comes with some "Frequently bought together" item, good idea?
01-15-2018, 10:08 PM
