I just got a call from my service guy to let me know I need new brake pads AND rotors. I asked him why the brake pads didnt sqeal or the sensor didn't alert me to the problem before the rotors got enough damage to need replacing and he said MB break pads dont sqeal, but they have a sensor that is suppose to let you know when they get low... my sensor didn't work.

Has anyone else had this trouble with the sensors not working? How are you to know when the pads need changing other than looking at them yourself?

Does 400$ sound about right for the work to be done at the dealer?

Thanks!

 

$400 bucks sounds right to me unfortunately , not sure about the sensor, mine come out right on time.

 

My SA quoted me 400 but much to my surprise, when I went to pay it was 317! As far as the squealing goes, right before my sensor went off my breaks would squeal.....not every time I hit the breaks but they did squeal now and then.

 

What do you guys think of the route of pushing them to cover it under warranty because it was their sensor that failed?

 

The 400 is just for the pads right? They are probably taking care of the rotors.

 

I have no idea, 400$ seems steep for brake pads. Anyone know?

 

$400 bucks should be for both rotor and pad.

 

MB service centers replace rotors...they dont cut the old ones. The upside of this is you get brand new brakes, the downside is the front rotors cost $82, rears are $68....plus labor and pads.

You should have them check the sensors and calipers to verify there are no defects....those repairs would be covered under warranty. Wear items like brakes, tires etc. are never covered unless there's a serious f'k up that you can convince them is not normal wear.
I have 62k on my E and 34k on my C....the E has about 35% of the brakes left..the C was over 60%.

 

400$ was for the pads and new front rotors. I was told there was nothing defective with the sensor but for some reason (and this doesn't seem normal) the rotors wore out before the pad sensors were exposed so I never got a warning. My car has 35k miles on it! My SA explained sometimes this happens and some rotors last longer than others. But it seems really odd the pads would outlast the rotors. Maybe he was trying to get out of a warranty repair for it?

Thanks for the feedback!

 

omg. so not surprised the sensors didn't work. how would i check to see if my pads are low or rotors are getting messed up (without taking off the tires if possible).

 

I am going to need front pads and rotors soon. My dealer (Chicago area) quoted $560 so $400 is a bargain! Has anyone gotten prices in the Chicago area?

 

you should be able to see how much of the pads are left by just looking at it...
well... I thought you don't have to pay since it's under maintenance? or warranty...

 

You will feel your car will stop in much more longer and it doesn't bite that well anymore.

 

Brakes are not covered by warranty or the service agreement. If you want free brakes for the warranty period go buy a BMW, as they seem to be the only one doing it. Crap MB has stopped the included maintainance for the 2005+ models.

 

Isn't AMG upgrade just a little bit more?

 

Sounds like BS to me.
I'd go look at the pads, or just tell them you'll be having them done elsewhere....for less.
If the sensor didn't come on, likely it's not that it failed, just that it's not gotten down that far yet.
Most likely you only need pads if this is the first go around.

My dealer told me I needed new pads front and rear and wanted
660 to replace just the pads, when they already had it on a lift
with the wheels off. Replacing pads with a car already on a lift with the wheels off is a 15 minute job per axle.

The pads cost 80 bucks per axle, so they wanted 500 in labor for a 1/2 hour of actual work not covered under warranty.

I told them I didn't apprecaite they're trying to take advantaghe of me, and I'd be going elsewhere.

I replaced the front pads myself for 70 bucks total including a new sensor.
The sensor did go off a little while after I left the dealer, but still had at least 1K miles left.

I still have not replaced the rear pads (40K) and on return visits to the dealer enquired if they needed replacement and was told they were fine!
Ha!
Chumps!
Put the AMG's later on, for about 725 total.

 

By the way guys, pads and rotors is a 3 bolt operation once the wheel is off.
1. Unscrew the brake fluid resevior lid, leave it loose while doing this so you don't put any pressure to the system.
If the brake resevior is completely full when you start, (shouldn't be unless the dealer topped if off)
use a turkey baster to suck a little out so it doesn't overflow,
brake fluid eats paint ya know.
Jack it up, put a jack stand to be safe as well as the jack.
Remove wheel.

Unbolt caliper, 2 bolts, and put something down there to set the caliper on, anything will do, just so you don't let them hang, and strain the hoses. Inspect the hoses, check for cracks. Likely just fine.

Remove old pads (maybe have to knock a pin out out to get them out), remove one allen screw from rotor, take off old, put on new, put screw back in.

Use a C clamp or a large pair of channel locks to carefully push the piston back in until it's flush, put new pads in caliper, bolt calipers back on (2 bolts) install wheel, repeat.

Put some duct tape on the teeth of the channel locks to avoid scratching the calipers, or if you use a C Clamp, use a small piece of wood, or maybe even one of the old pads.

Check the fluid level between doing each side, and at completion.
If you buy pads from the stealer, get some brake fluid too.
MB uses some **** called DOT 4+. And only they sell it.
Likely OK to use any DOT 4 fluid, BUT don't mix DOT 4 and DOT5 under any circumstances.
You can only use DOT5 if you flush completely, and the dealer will end up mixing them, so better to stay with DOT4 unless you plan to race.

If these simple instruction are too complex for you, if you honestly believe that only a trained monkey can do this, that it's beyond you skills, please kill yourself. You are too stupid to live (TSL), and the world is better off without you.



Total time will about 1 hour to 1.5 hours working slowly, and including time to get your tools out, jack the car, drink a beer, and clean up all you will need is a 17mm socket wrench to remove the wheel and caliper, an allen or torx wrench, forget the size, and a C Clamp or LARGE channel locks.

 

It is possible the rotors are warped and not ground. Sometimes pads will grove a rotor as well. Either of these two conditions is normal. Usually you can turn the rotors and get one more use out of them, but if MB won't turn them, then they have to be replaced.

If the pad truly wore out and you were metal to metal and the sensor didn't alert you, I would complain to MBUSA, because that is a defect.

 

Great instructions, Buellwinkle has detailed pictures with instructions on his site.

Now, my questions:
1. How do you tell when to replace pads without the sensor? The rears have no sensor, so how do I know when its time?
2. How long could you drive on our brakes after the sensor goes off? I want to order Porterfields yet don't want to waste the money until I know my brakes need replacing. If you answer question 1, I don't really need an answer to question 2.

Thanks.

 

As far as I remember, pads cost about 50 bucks (front) and rotors cost $30 each. Sensor's about $10 each. You can imagine the rest goes to labor...

Unlike Japanese cars rotors, the rotors on European cars do wear like the pads. It is sure odd enough that the rotors wear faster than than the pads.

 

Thank God mine is a lease, if they start barkin' I'll head to Meineke or Midas.