DIY oil change, step by step, with pictures
 

First of all, Happy New Year to everybody, I wish all of us safe and pleasant rides and no dealership visits.
Last weekend I decided to do first oil change on my 08 C300. For all the people interested in doing it yourself or just curious what it takes to do it I’m posting illustrated process.
My car is 6 months old and from the day one I knew that I’m not going to wait 10K miles to do first oil change and I knew that I’ll be doing it myself.
I was planning do oil change at 6-6.5K but Michigan cold weather kept me for doing it until last weekend.
On the first picture (“what’s needed”) you’ll see 9 quarts of Mobil 1- 0W40 motor oil, K&N HP7004 oil filter, small oil extractor and couple of other accessories.
Picture “7K oil change” is showing engine temperature around 55°C.
Picture “Engine cover” shows engine cover removal instruction.
After removing engine cover, remove oil dipstick and insert suction hose until hit the bottom of the oil pan. Other end of the hose insert in draining container.
Remove old oil filter, I was able to do it by hand and start oil extraction.
It took quite a while for electrical oil extractor to pull all of the oil out. I was even thinking what to do if that small pump gives up (it was really hot) right in the middle of process…
While extraction is in the progress, it’s time to change oil filter. Its very simple process: pull old filter straight out, remove two smaller O rings from the bottom of the assembly and one large around the cap and replace them with new ones (filter does come with new rings included in the box).Slide new filter back in to the cap and you are all set. Old (OEM) filter was MANN HU 718/5.
When the oil extraction is complete pull out hose, slide the dipstick back, put the new oil filter in place and start adding engine oil (8.5 quarts). When finished screw filler cap back and return engine cover.
Start the engine, let it run for a few minutes then turn it off and let it rest for 10-15 minutes, then check the engine oil level on the dipstick. Add some, if necessary.

Now couple of comments:
This is the first time that I was doing oil change by using oil extraction method. I decided to try small electrical suction pump (see pictures) that I found on e-bay (but you can buy the same one on Amazon), but I’m not impressed. It took long time and as I said, pump was getting really hot, to the point that I was afraid is it going to last long enough to finish the job. Maybe is nothing, but I just have no confidence in it. I will try to attach larger insertion hose, because original one has ID of about 3mm or 1/8” and see is that helps.
Like most of us, I was asking myself question: “How much oil I’ll be pulling out? Is it going to be some “leftovers”?” and just for the record: I did put all of the old oil in the empty bottles, that I had from the other oil changes, filling the bottles to 28oz…… and… (see the last picture) I end up having 9 (nine) 28oz. bottles and 1(one) 26oz. bottle… so all together 278oz of used motor oil, or 8 quarts and 22 oz. Slightly more then 8.5 recommended, but I was satisfied, because my dipstick was showing oil level on the upper limit.
Seams that dipstick tube is pointing to the lowest oil pan location, by design, but is going to take a few more oil changes before I start draining oil out in the big draining pan, without checking quantity (Am I weird or what?).
On the end everything went well, it took about 1.5 hours to finish everything including cleaning up and putting everything away. Actual work: about 15 minutes.
I’m open for comments and questions.
Regards

PS. I do have more photos. If somebody is interested I will upload them later.

Haha I just drain all the oil from the oil pan

but nice diy

Yea, wouldn't draining the oil from the bottom of the car get most of the contaniments out better ?

I thought with the W204 you can't drain the oil normally but need an extractor? :nix:

Nah the oil drain is just painted black so it is hard to find

I wanted to try this method and compare it to “more traditional” draining. This is the method that dealerships are using and it is “recommended one”. Both of the methods have “pros” and “cons” and I needed to do it by myself to check it out.
I did check bottom of my car (couple of months ago) and remove plastic under covers, but as far as I remember there is no classic drain plug on the engine oil pan. There is plug on one side but it’s not at the lowest position and mine had “loctite” compound around it.
Anyway, who knows in what “kind a mood” I’m going to be when next oil change times comes around.

thang you telling us there is a bolt underneath our car so we can rain the oil?

If that motorized extractor got too hot, consider a topsider or a mityvac. Why didn't you use an OEM filter, it might be less risky if there was ever a warranty issue, never give the dealer an opportunity to say that DIY work wasn't done properly.

I just liked small extractor idea because of taking almost no storage space vs. mityvac.
K&N is direct replacement for OEM filter. It's even made in Germany. Why I didn't buy OEM? One of the reasons, dealer's parts department (I'm guessing because of low sales) is not open on Saturday and they are open only until 5:30PM other days. Not convenient at all. So I just decided to go with K&N.

[QUOTE=milanlj;3248323]First of all, Happy New Year to everybody, I wish all of us safe and pleasant rides and no dealership visits.
Last weekend I decided to do first oil change on my 08 C300. For all the people interested in doing it yourself or just curious what it takes to do it I’m posting illustrated process.
QUOTE]

I find it cheaper to buy the oil in larger containers eg 20 litres or 4 imperial gallons from a Mobil depot. You would then have enough for 3 changes.

Knowledge
 

it has already been proven that the suction method removes more oil than the drain plug.

And if you can't correctly identify components, leave them alone. I'm inclined to think that locktited plug you saw is the oil level sensor. A crankcase drain plug would never be locktited but would have a metal gasket.

I have been doing oil changes with my Topsider for about ten years, now. It's a $50 marine item available at West Marine, a national chain.

It is almost useless to try to convince that siphoning oil works on an MB. I can just support the comment above by referring to the fact that MB workshops do it almost exclusively this way and the workshop instructions suggest this too (although the traditional way of draining from the plug is allowed too).

Actually the dipstick tube design goes further than allowing a pipe entered to the bottom. You can use a big tube connected to the top of the dipstick tube. If you have your engine at normal temperature, you would get oil out literally in a few seconds (of course the pump needs to be good too).

I still often use a small tube to the bottom of the oil pan (from the dipstick tube) after siphoning from the top, there is nothing more to suction but the oil that takes time to drain to the bottom.

The idea of getting slush out from the bottom of the pan by draining is pretty old fashioned. Modern oil would not allow such appearing in the first place and secondly the oil flow really is the same from the big pipe if there was anything at the bottom that the oil flow should bring with it.

Draining is not worse than siphoning, except that you have to take the bottom panels out and the drain plug. It is always a bit of wear and tear but the main thing is that you don't have to get your hands or your car dirty when siphoning oil. Even the oil filter is designed for this, once you remove the filter, the valve opens and allows the oil to drain to the oil pan. On most other cars you cannot avoid getting oil everywhere when removing the oil filter.

Glad to see another do it yourselfer at work.

Something else to consider is that you don't really know what the dealership is pumping into your car. At least by doing it yourself, you have a better sense that the correct oil is being used.

I'm with you Jim...I always have visions of the guys in the back saying oh crap we only have 4 qts of oil left...oh well, just replace 4 qts, he'll never know the difference...:confused:
Maybe a little paranoid but I also find it fun working on the car whenever I have the tools and the time.

Thanks for info, I just wait for MB to confirm if I can change the oil before actual service, cause the dealer told me it is not possible on my model. The service indicator will step on with new oil, so I miss out all other sections of a real service ?? MB SA say this is not true, but they will investigate and inform dealers, have not heard from them yet.

Draining by the sump plug as we know necessitates removing the plastic covers. What I like about this is that a more through examination of the underside of the vehicle can take place and also is a learning experience of the location of various components which cannot be seen from above eg exhaust particulate filters, cat. converter ect. I just enjoy learning more about the mechanicals of my first MB & don't find it a hassle at all.:)

I have used a System called a Liquid-Vac which you can purchase from TSC or other equipment companies. It holds 2.5 gallons of oil, and will siphon anything from gearlube to transfluid. It may not be very fast when the fluid is cold but it is still a clean hands operation and they only cost about 30 dollars.

Remember if you use a "Mity-Vac" that you must not allow oil to enter the pump or it will become non functional. The Liquid-Vac will use a little oil to keep the pump lubricated.

Admittedly, it has been a while since I have changed my own oil, but I always warmed my car up before changing the oil. The premise behind this is that the warm, freshly circulated oil would flow easier and have just picked up and suspended more particles, gunk, etc.
Of course, our oil flows better when cold and the suction system apparently pulls from the very bottow of the pan so would warming the car prior to the oil change actually be counter productive??

I'd speculate that getting the gunk in suspension to be drained/sucked out is very important and something you can't do with the engine cold.

Could you post photos of the oil filter removal and the hose insertion into the dipstick tube?

Completed my second oil change on my 2009 C3004M today. I returned the MityVac I used last time and am now using this:

http://jabsco.com/products/marine/di..._143/index.htm

It's sold predominantly as a marine unit, amazon sells it. But its a nice compact one piece setup with the integrated capture tank. The electric pump remains cool during operation. I also bought a cheap 12V lawn mower battery to power it instead of using the car.

However, I still worry that I am not able to suck everything out using the vacuum method. The pump slurps out the "easy" 6+ quarts in under 10 minutes, then you have to work the insertion point a little to get it to scavenge more from the pan until finally it sucks mostly air - or at least what I think was the bottom of the pan with respect to my insertion of the suction hose. Somewhere I am a quart short (accounting for the filter). Now I will admit, the one mistake I made was that I did not check the oil level in the car immediately before the change, I might have been a quart down before starting the job. That was a mistake on my part.

For change #3, I think I am going to expose the drain plug and see what remains after the suction operation. That seems like the only 100% accurate test of this whole suction method.

A question for others - is it best to operate the extractor with the oil filter still installed and the oil cap tightened down? In other words, is it better to allow air into the motor during extraction, or better to keep those inlets (filter, cap) sealed up to create a better vacuum?

I think you're suppose to remove the filler cap so that you're not causing resistance to the oil being sucked out. You'll get air either way once the oil level drops below the suction tube.

For good measure, I also remove the oil filter.

So we could change our own oil without taking it into MB? I thought we had to have MB do it so they could stamp our service log book.

Does it void any warranty if we changed the oil ourselves?

Just make sure you keep accurate receipts for filters and oil, and a log book of when the work is performed. Of course, if you are not comfortable performing a particular DIY task, don't take a chance.

Few things to keep in mind:
Drain Plug -
If you choose to drain from bottom on MB cars do NOT reuse the drain plug and washer. Purchase new. The bolt is an "a" bolt it actually stretches a little when installed. Usually will develop small leak if reused. Better off replacing. only a few $

Filter -
The filter, The oem is designed to last at least 13k miles and is usually made of fleece. When using any other brands like K&N and so on
even though direct replacement they are not all designed to be replaced at those high miles. Make sure to verify you are purchasing one designed for that type of milage

[QUOTE=stealtheo;3633533]Few things to keep in mind:
Drain Plug -
If you choose to drain from bottom on MB cars do NOT reuse the drain plug and washer. Purchase new. The bolt is an "a" bolt it actually stretches a little when installed. Usually will develop small leak if reused. Better off replacing. only a few $

Those little non reuseable drain plugs for the diff on our C63 were only $25 a pop, one for fill, one for drain. Total BS about not reusing them. Suggest reusing them with a little sealer on the threads, just like what was on the threads prior to removal! Afterall, were aren't putting a 100 ft.lb. torque on em reinstalled.:y

[QUOTE=lomita;3642031]
Not sure what u are referring to. I was talking about the drain plug on the oil pan for those who choose to drain from the bottom. Screw and washer are a few dollars for both. "A" bolts stretch when installed. In most cases if you reuse the drain plug you will get a small drip afterwards. even more likely if you use it more than once. The sealer you mention is lock-tight to keep the screw from working its way loose. Has nothing to do with sealing anything.

i did my first oil change using the 8+ liter Mityvac from amazon. using the smallest tubing provided i was able to extract 6.2 liters (which is like 6.3 quarts about im estimating).

this falls short like 2-3 quarts of oil?

do i need a smaller tube to extract more from the dipstick or is this all i will get? i pumped until all i got was air and slight gurgle.

i replaced with the same amount of oil and changed the filter. i am having trouble judging level using dipstick.

any advice?

thanks

greek guy,

It really sounds like you didn't push the tube in far enough. Once you start getting air in the mityvac, you have to be sure that you've got enough suction by pumping the handle some more.

The other possibility is that you were low on oil to start with. That dip stick is hard to read. Maybe somebody can suggest a better way to read it.

Also, when you were removing the oil, did you remove the oil filler cap and the oil filter?

Dont use tubes in the dipstick pipe its almost impossible to extract all the oil using them, the best way is to construct an adapter to fit the nozzle of the oil extractor air tight to the inlet of the dipstick pipe, this way all the oil is sucked through the pipe and there is no risk of leaving any behind.

You suggest going over the tube, and not down with a smaller tube? For sure, you'll need alot more suction to extract the oil that way, and none of these consumer model extractors are going to cut it.

hellasmania219, make sure you warm up the car first. And don't forget to account for the oil in the filter assembly. And as others have said, check the oil just before you do the change, if you are down a quart for example, that's a quart less you are going to take out.

I had same issue with our 4matic, posted about it, and was essentially told by the wise ones I did not know what I was doing ... They did not appreciate the difference between the dealer suction method, and the typical DIY version, especially as it relates to the 4-matic.

If you have a 4matic, there seems to be a kink in the dipstick tube near the bottom. Whether it was the 6mm or 7mm extraction tube, I could only insert the Mityvac tube about .7" deeper than the dipstick. When I tested it with flex cable (similar to dip stick), I could stick the bare cable about 1.8" deeper than the dipstick. This indicated a restriction near the bottom of the dipstick tube on our 4-matic.

Since the dealer sucks the oil with a top fitting adaptor, it quickly gets all the oil from the W204 4-matics, and most other MB's.

It would be great if someone made and sold a 90 degree adaptor that uses an o-ring seal at the top of the tube (like MB tool) and connects to the largest mytyvac tubing. This would allow full draining of 4matics (at least mine). And by using the oem dip tube as the suction line, it would allow all c300's to be sucked out much quicker and more thoroughly ... and more consistently at the bottom vs using an insert tube method.

I asked an MB tech who is the sibling of a co-worker of mine about the 4MATIC drain, describing this scenario of the front driveshaft splitting the pan, and not being able to insert a tube - they didn't say it was an issue.

I'll ask again if they do a tube insertion method, or suck from the outside of the dipstick tube. But I still say that to do an over the tube method, you need higher suction then most DIY units provide.

Also, I don't see that hellasmania219 has a 4MATIC, at least its not listed in their post.

Correction - I see hellasmania219 does have a 4MATIC, so there may be an issue here, I will check with my MB tech contact.

What could the shape of the obstruction be if your flex cable can make the bend, but the tube cannot? The tube can make a simple bend, but I can't see that the flex cable is going to adapt to some complex curve, unless you really ram it in there.

i have a 2009 c300 4-matic

i checked the level before and after, they seem to match but i get different readings with almost every dip...haha

i used the mityvac smallest tubing and shoved it as far as i could using what some may call excessive force.

the engine had been warmed up...

i will ask my dealer when i take in my ML this week, but i really dont know why i couldnt extract all the oil

1) The MB tech would not know about problems inserting a tube to the bottom of the sump, they suck from the top of the dip stick tube, using a MB tool. The tool fits into the top of the dipstick tube, where the bore is about 5/8". The tool uses o-rings, just like the top of the dipdtick.

2) (edited) The MB suction method uses the full bore of the dipstick tube to extract oil. Both size mytyvac tubes fit in initially. The larger one's OD closely matched the diptube's 8.7mm bore, and had about a 6.6mm bore. Any hand pump device will pull oil out more easily using the full dipsticktube bore, based on less pressure drop needed to obtain the same flow rate.

I initially asked a MB tech and SM if there was a 4matic issue with oil changes, and they said none. That's because they use a tool that sucks from the top, and they due not stick a plastic tube in the dipstick-tube.

Based on the hard false stop, I suspect a slight king from a bending machine. No complex curve.

The insert tubing OD (6 or 7 mm) is just slightly smaller than the dipstick tube bore, and it would not take much of a flaw to stop the inserted plastic tube. The 3/32" aircraft cable I used is much smaller in dia, and very flexible.

I was able to extract all 8 quarts plus with my simple hand pump extractor and I can't imagine why a 4matic would have any type of different dipstick tube then any other C300-350, isn't the only difference, the final drive?

At least 2 of us just got 6 quarts out of a 4matic, using a inserted suction tube. I used same tool to fully exract all the oil from and an Audi A4 and a Mazda6, both of which I also drained by old drain plug method.

I suspect the issue is a slight curve of the dipstick tube, needed to clear the transverse tube in the oilpan that houses the fwd intermediate shaft.:nix:

You may be right. It doesn't seem like that would be keeping you from inserting the tube all the way to the bottom of the pan but, :nix:

Getting a tube adpater to fit over the dipstick tube is certainly possible, Home Depot sells plenty of tubes and adapters and such. You believe that your typical MityVac, or even the electric marine unit I bought, has the suction power to drain using this method?

I'll try it next time, but that won't be for another 5 months.

yup. the dip tube has a flare at the top end that would impede an "over" fitting hose. I think 3/8" fuel hose with a brass barb pressed in may seal at the ID of the tube top, based on a little check I did.

The pump kit you have should work fine, but may be rate limited by the diaphram displacement rating ... don't expect a much higher flow rate, as the mytyvac will see.

Something like that sounds like it should work - slide a hose over the diptube end and use some kind of clamp to seal it, then attach the suction line to that.

I had the MityVac for my 1st change, then returned it. At least for the diptube method, this marine unit worked pretty well.

Issues with MityVac?

-----------------------------------

This W203 thread has good links to MB approved oils:

https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...ments-usa.html

Anal Oil Change ....

I've been known to go over the edge. To help get any sludge off the pan bottom, I heat about 1/2 bottle of oil (double boiler), and pour in when the pan was emptied, and empty/extract it.

just my $.02

I bought the mityvac that runs off a compressor, not the hand pump one, but the bleeder valve on it is such that it doesn't make much suction. This 12V electric marine unit is better, and the integrated container for the waste oil makes disposal easy.

I heard from my MB tech friend today, who confirmed the shop's use of the top adaptor fitting with the O ring seals (I guess we can't buy that adaptor from MB?), so that is the way to go next time, I have to cobble something together to try that method next time.

This is the second time I've changed my oil and have a question I should have asked earlier.

With the oil filter from Mercedes, they're 5 o rings. I don't see where the two smaller one's are suppose to go.

Anyone know?

I just saw the O ring on the dip stick. Is that where the smaller o ring is suppose to go?

I wasn't sure what those extra o-rings were for either, I looked around but gave up.

I used the Jabsco pump and successfully retrieved 8qts with the little tube down the dipstick tube. I am quite happy with that outcome. I was not happy with the condition of my oil after only 5000mi, it was much darker than I expected. I am glad I changed it when I did.

The first oil change was done by the dealership. So, I'm wondering if they failed to put in one of the o rings where the filter goes. I've got two in there, but am wondering if a 3rd is suppose to go there.

phatboypimp. Did you do the first oil change and if so, were there more than two o rings where the filter goes? This is not counting the really large one that seals the plastic housing.

I have a bad memory. But I believe there was three orings used on the filter cylinder. But I am not 100% I want to say there was one at the top and two on the bottom, but I am not sure.

Interesting.

Maybe someone will join in on this discussion that can clarify this for us.

Does the tenth picture down ring any bells? Do you recall replacing that small o'ring on the tip?

http://www.articlealley.com/article_799138_31.html

I am almost positive the 204 filter assembly uses 3 gaskets.

I believe the filter is used on more then 1 engine, different engines might have a different o-ring setups. I used the 2 smaller ones and 1 larger one.

I also drained from the bottom, I really can't see doing it any other way however I do have a lot of tools so its very easy for me to do it. I did not replace the drain plug, I did replace the crush washer, I change oil so many times a year I can't even count, 4 autos at this house + friends/family I've never once had a drain plug back out when not using locktight I've also never had a single issue with reusing a drain plug (I do replace crush washers) From audi, benz, to hondas suzukis and nissans. Never once have I had a leak from a drain plug.

If you do it from the bottom you need to remove the under tray, not the first one that goes up to the front bumper but the 2nd one, its held on by I believe 8, 8mm? screws, and the drain plug is 13mm. I couldn't find a torque spec for the mercedes drain plug but 22-24lbs should be fine.

I easily removed 8.5 quarts of oil and put 8.5 quarts back in, I had zero worry about if I got it all out.

jeffie7,

I pumped the oil from above and originally got just under 8 quarts. After I removed the existing filter, I had a protracted phone conversation that must have taken a couple of hours. When I returned to the car, I was able to pump the remaining oil which brought me up to a hair under 8 1/2 quarts. This is on a 2008 C300.


I'd still like from others who have changed their oil, how many o rings they installed when replacing the oil filter on this car.

Are you saying the large 3"(approximate) o ring and two of the smaller one's?

Yes, the large one at the top of the filter housing, and two smaller ones at the bottom of the filter assembly neck.

hey, my sister has a w204 and her service A is up. I told her that i would see if i can change the oil for her and save her 450+ for service. My question to you is that is it ok to just drain the oil? Just like doing a regular oil change on any other car? thanks for thehelp.sorryif for the newbie questions.

See my post a few post back.

Hi first time poster trying to change my oil in the '09 C300 this weekend.
can you all tell me what size is the filter housing wrench?

76mm 14flute? Thanks

Not sure, I just used my hand.

UPDATE - it a 76mm wrench.
Used the same 1 from my mazda3.

btw - thanks to the OP for a great OIL CHANGE INSTRUCTION.
Easy. Next time I can get under 30 minutes & btw the Mityvac 7201 barely had any room left.
Just becareful when you transport it as it is almost completely full 7 installing the plug will make it spill out a little.

I'm at around 7,700 miles and I had a service warning come on yesterday that said "Check oil levels at next refuel", I had asked my service center at 5,000 miles when I needed to do my first service check, and they said it would be at 15,000 miles. Should I do an intermediate oil change at this point, or should I just check levels and top off?

Darkening in synthetics is perfectly normal and not cause for alarm.

Peabody,

That message means that your oil is low. Check it immediately.

Yeah, I checked it at the Esso before pulling onto the autobahn on my way home, and it was about 10% above the Min fill line so I added a quart, and next time I refuel, I'll check it again to see where it's standing.

Well, I did my third oil change today on the C300 4M. This time, I constructed a tube that slips over the diptube to drain the oil the same way the dealership does. But even with my electric marine pump, I could not generate enough suction to drain using this method - the suction device they use at the dealership must be very powerful.

So I conducted the diptube method again, getting just over 7Q liquid measure out. Figure close to 7.5Q total with whatever was soaked onto the filter element. So again, with the 4M, it appears there is something different about the pan and the diptube bottom that prevents 100% extraction using this method.

nyca

Did you loosen the oil filter and remove the oil refill cap? Did you allow enough time for the oil to drain from the engine? Did you measure the oil level to see if you might have been down a half quart?

Yes, I was super accurate this time. My oil was full as per the dipstick (hadn't used any in 10K miles). Engine warm, I removed the filter assembly while the pump was working and had the fill cap off, I used two different dip tubes (a fatter one first, then a thinner one to scavenge) during the suction phase. I measured the oil I drained into two disposal containers with liquid measure readings on their sides, including what drained out of the filter assembly when I removed it. 7.5Q max.

There must be something about the 4MATIC pan assembly, as noted by another poster (forget his screen name, kevin something I think) that prevents sucking it all out. And unless I get a more powerful pump, sucking using the over the diptube method (what they do at the dealer) isn't going to work, I made a good fitting tube adapter to work with my pump - but I can't generate enough suction.

I notice you have a C300 - let me ask you, if you just go to check your oil (not part of changing it, just a general maintenance checkup) - when you first pull your dipstick out, does it have any oil on it? On my 4MATIC, when I first pull that dipstick out - its dry. And I mean really dry, like there is some kind of venturi effect in the pan/diptube that has sucked the oil away from the stick during engine operation. Of course, when I immediately re-insert the stick and remove it, I see oil and can read the level just fine. But the initial removal of the dipstick - its dry. The first few times I did it I freaked out thinking I was running the car with no oil. Its like some air needs to get down into the pan upon first removal of the dipstick, before I can take a true reading. But upon second insertion/removal, the oil is surely there and the dipstick reads correctly. I don't recall any other 4MATIC owner posting anything about this, not sure why.

My 40K service will be done at the dealer because I need the 7G transmission fluid service at that time, so they will be doing the next oil change.

Yup. My notes are on page 2 here. My measurements showed the inserted tubes were about 1" from reaching the pan bottom, due to a kink/bend/restriction in the diptube. This is not an issue with C300 rwd's.



The (at least my) MB dealer tool fits inside the top of the diptube. Here's a pic of the fitting, the big end goes in the diptube. Small end would fit 3/8" fuel hose, but normaly fits in their standard hose assembly and vacuum-jet scavanging tank. I'll post more in a sepearate thread:


http://www.fluidevacuators.com/mbenz.gif


Are you sure the pump was sealed at your diptube connection? Pics? Do you have a link for your 12V bilge pump? I've used jabsco's for various jobs, including a custom turbo oil scavanging pump.


I noticed this too. The crankcase is often under vacuum by the pcv system, and it's likely air is sneaking by the o-rings when the crankcase is at highset vacuum, and getting trapped in the full lgth of the tube. Many cars have a short diptube, that doesn't reach the oil level, and this dry stick-end behaviour will not happen.

I commented about it here in post #79 : https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...ml#post3405625

Note this thread is a great read about smart guys, that can snap into arrogant, false prophets.

A W204-4matic newbie asks about diy oil change, and Zeus and his trusty tonto from W203, drop in from the clouds and push standard DIY insert-tube syphoning, just like other owners do and the dealer does ...NOT. I had just tried this on my car with your same results ... quart or two remains in sump. Zeus and baggage say I'm irresponsible for disaggreeing with him, several times, and Tonto gives me this great advice "Go look up the definition of encapsulates". Yup, that's just what I needed to do. Diesel Benz was very helpful, and kept an open mind ... thanks!

I have the MB adaptor and would send it to you for a try.

i have a hand operated pump (mityvac) and was never able to extract all the oil from my c300 4M. i used the smaller tube but couldn't get to the bottom of pan.

If i used such an adapter as the one pictured above, would this work with a hand operated pump?

Where you find an adapter like that kevink2, it would be nice tool to have?

Hey Kevin, I knew you were out there somewhere.

So the dealer adapter fits inside the top of the diptube? Oh man, I spent time crafting one that slides over the top. 3/4" inner diameter tubing fits over the top, with a banjo clamp to snug it up to the diptube and prevent leaks, plus some plastic reducing unions (plumbing and jacuzzi/pool supply fittings) to mate it down to the tube diameter coming from my pump. But I guess I can re-craft for the next time and get one that fits inside the diptube top, the "big end" - do you know the diameter?

Yes, I have the jabsco marine unit. But only the entry level model - the one with the integrated pump and capture vessel:

http://jabsco.com/products/marine/di...m143/index.htm

Link To Dealer OC Method
 

Got some more info suggesting the 4MATIC could be different from rwd W204's, regarding oil removal by tube insertion and vacuum extraction. The dip-stick-tube (and dip-stick) have different part #'s for the 4MATIC, vs rwd models.

dip-stick and guide tube

Of course, they don't show any illustrations for the 4MATIC tube or lower pan assembly.

congrats, I think you are the 1st one to evac all the oil from a W204 4MATIC, and perhaps a W203 4MATIC. Was the oil hot? 20-25 minutes sounds a bit long.

Of course, Gurus #1 and #2 from W203 would say you just need help in how to use an inserted tube, as they told me.:rolleyes:

That fluid evacuator, is it electric? How do you pressurize it?

Looks like it is a hand pump.

Seams like I left about 1/2qt in the system. The oil temp was ~40 degrees, so that might explain the duration. I didn't time the process precisely, so offered a conservative estimate. My main objective was to use the same process that an authorized service technician would employ (without purchasing a $200+ evacuation system). Would probably need to repeat this process a few more times, but the initial conclusion is that a manual
Pneumatic extractor (at least this model) is able to generate enough pressure to evacuate oil from the dipstick top and avoid the need to insert a tube down to the bottom of the oil pan.

It is manual (hand pump). There is a hose clamp that comes attached to the tube. You simply pinch the tube shut, pump the handle several times until the dial shows 12-15 in.Hg, stick the aluminum adapter into the dipstick tube, and release the clamp. The oil comes up almost instantaneously.

If that's celcius, you're probably ok. If not, you should have warmed up the engine to get the oil flowing better.

Wow, All this talk makes me think the $95 at the local indy MB mechanic to do a oil changes is well worth it.

I'll have to try that adapter with my electric (12V) marine pump unit, we'll see if it can make enough suction to do the job from the top.

I bought from amazon

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002SR7TC/ref=oss_product
and
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ef=oss_product

I got 8L out from read the level after it stop. I did warm the engine for 2 min and the whole process took about 45 minutes :) (I also have to use a oil filter cap wrench) NO extra tool and part needed to do this oil change! very very easy!

Technically, that's just coolant temp, not engine oil temp.

On this subject, does anyone know if the W204 has an engine oil temp sensor, and if so, is there a way to display its reading? I'm guessing it's only a C63 feature.

2010 c350 4matic oil change
 

I have a '10 350 matic with 10K km (6K miles) on it and wanted to do an oil change half way to MB stipulated 20K km oil change. I just want to change the oil with intent to have the 20K km oil and filter change at the dealer.
I have always done oil changes the conventional way (by gravity) by removing the drain plug.
On all the 5 cars I have owned (VW, Toyota, 2-Honda and Mazda) I have always changed the engine oil and filter myself.
I removed the C350 4M engine bottom cover and located the oil pan and drain plug located on the left side with the copper gasket clearly sandwiched b/w the oil pan and plug. I was about to drain the oil but hesitated because I saw the front drive shafts go through the oil pan; I also saw bolted at the bottom, a removeable/gasketted access panel very similar to the bottom an auto transmission.
Can somebody please tell me if:
1. the front differential shares its oil with the engine (I doubt it but
who knows?)
2. the drain plug that I saw was for the engine
3. the front differential is a sealed/different casing (i.e. different/separate
compartment within the same engine oil pan/sump casting)
which means the front diff can only be drained through the removal of
the bolted access panel at the very bottom of the oil drain pan assy.
Which also means that the engkine and diff do not share the same oil.
Please let me know as I do not want to inadvertently drain the front diff.
Thank you.

oil change
 

I did my own at 11,000 miles yet im leasing the car...took me 40 minutes, did it the regular way, drain and fill. I got a Mercedes mailer last week for a Service A for $100! At least the prices for service are going down...also said Service B for $150

edV44, pics in this link may help (2002 V6 Motor Oil Drain Plug).

http://www.installuniversity.com/mb/...il-change.html

If you wind up siphoning, remember W204 (and maybe 203) 4MATIC's require this adaptor that the dealer shops use:

https://mbworld.org/forums/attachmen...ures-mbenz.gif

thanks kevink2,
I might just take the "extractor route" as it is easier and a lot less messy.
I'm still curious though about that front shaft setup per my posting at 12:17PM
Apr. 2, 2010.
I would appreciate an answer from anybody.
Thanks.

"1. the front differential shares its oil with the engine (I doubt it but
who knows?)"

no, the 4matic has a front differential with bevel gears, and requires about 1 Quart of stinky hypoid gear oil, not motor oil. Separated cases.

2010 C350 4matic Engine Oil Drain Plug
 

I changed the oil this weekend using the conventional method of opening the drain plug. I have attached pictures showing the location of the drain plug. I used Mobil 1 0W-40 (European Car Formula; MB 229.5 compliant)
To get to the drain plug:
1. Remove the bottom cover of the engine bay by removing 8 bolts (use
8mm socket).
2. Locate the drain plug on the left side of the engine oil pan (refer to
pictures).
3. Open drain plug with 13mm socket to drain the oil.
Note be sure to replace the copper drain plug washer with a new one.
4. Re-install drain plug; do not over-tighten.
Pictures taken looking to rear of vehicle.
I hope this helps.
I abandoned the suction method as I believe this is the best way to fully drain the oil.

Does a new washer come with a filter or do you have to buy one from the dealer?

Anybody know the recommended torque for this?

The filter does not come with the copper washer. It has to be purchased separately from the dealer. It costs less than a dollar each. If you could find a copper washer of the same size from a different source, that should work.

Ah, ye of little faith... Why trust the MB engineers with a $50k car, and not with the maintenance recommendations?

I have always had best results with any engineering project by relying solidly upon and trying the recommended and accepted methods, before tossing them aside for my way of doing things.

In this particular case it is just the lack of the proper tool that takes exception on the recommendations in favor of the "I've always done it this way rule". To me, not only do I find that there is no need to get the mitts dirty to perform the task properly by suction, but I shall use the pump for replacing the tranny oil, as well as the differential oil, and to extract brake fluid, gasoline, and a few other chores, so I bought a good one which I adapt for each use.

You must admit, there are a lot of benefits in seeing the underside of the car.

To each his own I guess.

I can't find the torque value for tightening the oil filter.

I promise to write it down this time if someone would be kind enough to tell me. :)

great info to know, thanks for the DIY

Sure, that's part of getting to know the car from A through Z, but does not obviate following recommended practices for all chores. Now, if all you can do is oil changes, it may be more practical to get your mechanic to see what he finds underneath. Besides, if you intend to change your transmission fluid, it is better to know what you will find before you do it. But, as you say: To each his own...

:zoom::zoom::zoom:

how is the oil looks?
 

:)

What is the exact size of oil filter wrench/cup?

or should i leave the filter there and just change the oil?

Size "B".

Absolutely don't leave the filter there.

Be sure to read the instructions that came with the filter about where the washer goes on the filter housing. Its possible to put it in the wrong place.

OEM sells for $25!
I heard Mann filter = OEM, anyone can confirm about this?

Yup. Mann, Mahle/Knecht, and Hengst are all OEM suppliers to German car makers.

Just used the fluidevacuators.com adapter for the 40K change in my C3004M - worked great - got 8+ quarts out this time. Also took about 20 minutes using a 12V powered marine suction unit. I had to use a reducing union to mate the 3/8" nipple on the topside dipstick adapter, to the 1/4" suction tube on the extractor. This contributes to why it takes 20 minutes - using the same extractor as I did for the diptube method, I am still using a 1/4" tube to suck all the oil through using the top suck method. The "pro" series extractors must run 3/8" all the way. Still, it worked fine.

its much eaiser and efficient to drain oil from the bottom of the pan having gravity work with you...not against you.

You might be able to get a few more ounces out by draining the oil from underneith but is it really worth it when you're looking at 8 1/2 quarts?

I've done 3 changes from the topside and have gotten almost all the oil out each time. I just don't see where buying low incline ramps, crawling under the car, removing covers, finding replacement plugs are worth the extra hassel and expense.

ive never heard of replacing a drain plug bolt unless it was cross threaded or stripped. crush washer, yes. i also prefer to have the motor warm and let it drain overnight to get every last drop.

There is something about replacing a washer, plug or something that you're suppose to do if you remove the drain plug.

Sorry for not remembering the details any better.

I did the oil change through the traditional method (not through pump)!
It is very straight forward!
You need to remove the Black piece of plastic shield!
Then find the drain plug and unbolt it!
Since the bolt is sideway, the initial "burst" could blast up to 2 feet (unfortunately i wasn't prepared and caused some spill).
Then the rest is pretty much the same as other cars!

I think a bunch of you guys and gals are being taken for a ride with the price of your cars. A good part of it is due to incidence of the engineering developing costs as overhead, and really, you guys know better than these men who waist their time recommending oil changes pumping through the top, and God knows how many other difficult things that later don't make sense. I see why some of you are so ticked off.

As for myself, I said what the heck, all the engineers in Stuttgart cannot be crazy... So I tried the top pump method and I removed all the oil in the system. Then, I removed the shield and verified that the location of the drain plug is on the side of the carter, so it is not more efficient to change oil draining from the bottom than it is draining by pumping from the top. In this crazy world, I feel more comfortable expressing my solidarity to the many times proven Stuttgart engineering.

:zoom::zoom::zoom:

Did you tried to remove the drain plug and see any oil come out, after you did the pumping method?

It is about achievement, rather than the "type of work"!

It would be interesting if I were able to change the ATF.
I heard from other that the tranny drain pan only has one hole (for drain and fill), and it is temperature sensitive. ATF change would be extremely challenging without proper equipment.

I thought it would work fine.

Again, the fluidevacuators adaptor, used by the dealers, is needed for suction draining all 4MATIC models. Without it, you leave about an extra quart or more in the sump.

NYCA, you might be able to replace the 1/4" fitting on the pump with a 3/8" one. Looks like a simple tube grabber.

Contact Jabsco or a vendor for 3/8" suction line upgrade parts.

http://www.pumpvendor.com/Jabsco_17860_series.html


:)

I have not taken out the drain plug from the oil pan, cause I removed, cleaned and reinstalled the oil pan, after inspecting and cleaning underneath of the engine particularly the oil pump and strainer, and installing a couple of magnets in the oil pan. I also sent the oil for analysis to determine what the debris being eliminated was. And you know what, everything is peachy-koo. I fill fulfilled.

As for the ATF, there are plenty of posts regarding partial fluid change and total flush of 722.6 and 722.9 transmissions. As for proper equipment, the pump I use for oil changes plus a few small parts and hoses is all it's needed, though I procured a Laser Thermometer to make my job easier. The only other element is a little ingenuity to adapt procedures to your facilities, but a lift is a grand help.

My one and only satisfaction is the Swiss watch chronometer action my car maintains.

:zoom::zoom::zoom:

I think it is much easier to do it from the drain plug. If there were proper tools and pumps that would extract all oil from the dipstick it is ok, but what I understood there are no set tools that everyone 100% satisfied. Or just take it to the shop and pay $100 to replace the oil.

Did anyone used this one?

http://www.amazon.com/Trac-Dynamics-...=cm_cr_pr_pb_i

Reviews are gtear, just not sure how it will work with our cars.

Well, for starters, it says that it only holds 6 liters, while your engine holds about 8 liters of oil, so you will have to stop in the middle and empty out this extractor into some other container. I guess it's doable but not the most convenient.

If anyone is truly interested, at marine shops there are pumps to change oil to boat engines of many kinds and prices. The one I got can work at 12 or 110 VAC and is ready for commonly sold hoses that can be changed for the different fluids you might wish to pump in or out.

No need to be scared of the unknown horizon.

:zoom::zoom::zoom:

That jabsco unit I am using is a marine unit. I just like the convenience of a 12V powered unit, I tried the hand pump type and returned it.

C63 oil
 

Can i check with you

how many liter of Engine oil i need for my C 63 ?

my manual book did not say anything about how many liter Oil needed ?

is it 6.3 liter ?

please advice me

thanks

Daniel

C 63 oil
 

You look like a Pro in Oil change Ok
Can i check with you

how many liter of Engine oil i need for my C 63 ?

my manual book did not say anything about how many liter Oil needed ?

is it 6.3 liter ?

please advice me

thanks

Daniel

Daniel,

Nice car!

Your engine holds 9 quarts (8.5 liters).

Filter prices
 

You can buy the same fleece filters in the aftermarket for far less.

Mann/K&N
 

It's true. The filter K&N sells is made by Mann and is the same as it's own labelled filter. And they charge more than the Mann costs elsewhere. This was verified some time ago.

I just picked up a 75mm 14flute from O'Riley's (made by Pennzoil), and it seemed like a good tight fit, but when I tried to actually turn the filter housing cap with it, it just kept on jumping through flutes. So then I put a cotton rag between the wrench and the cap to try to tighten up the clearances, and at that point the top of the wrench (where the 3/8" socket is) just stripped since it's all made of plastic. Cheap crap. On the other hand, I wonder what kind of Hercules tightened this cap before? He must have used way more than 25 Nm of torque.

So, I extracted the oil (got about 8.2 qt out), but I'm unable to replace the filter. Can anyone recommend a high quality wrench?

If the 75mm wrench is too loose, I'm thinking a 76mm would be even worse. Plus, none of my local stores seem to carry a 76mm/14 flute wrench. The 76mm is 15mm and it does not fit at all.

Does the MB service department sell this type of a wrench?

FYI, I found this wrench that appears to be well made (steel) and possibly the right fit: 74.5mm, 14 flutes.

link

Anybody have one of these?

I take a large
 

C- clamp and put the pads on opposite flats of the cap and gently
gentle twist of the clamp easily removes cap a gentle snug installs it when done.

advance auto parts, amongst others, sells the oil filter flute for this car.

I really can't see how it can be overtightened, there is a natural stop in it - and you will see a mark from the factory where the cap lines up with the base, so you know to turn and stop at that point - you don't really need a torque wrench.

Filter wrench
 

I have used a Hazet 2169 filter wrench on all my MBs with spin on filters and also on my Porsche for decades.

You can Google it or go to Ebay where one is advertised by ZDMAK Tools at 877-938-6657.

It is a bit more expensive than the Assenmacher tool previously mentioned.

Using the correct tools makes everything so much easier and low cost is not always your first choice.

Is it metal or plastic? The plastic ones just deform and skip.

You can try a large set of Channel Locks or even a pipe wrench for now until the right wrench/tool is found for the next time.

Holy ****, your oil filter should not require a wrench at ALL. You do not need to apply more torque than hand tightened. maybe you need one to break it loose, but do not use it to tighten it back on!

Well, the recommended torque is 25 Nm, as written on the cap itself, alas, it looks like someone tightened it more than this.

I just ordered the Assenmacher tool. Hopefully I'll get it within a week, at which point I'll change the filter. Shouldn't be that big of a deal. I just hope the darn cap does not break on me.

I didn't notice the marks you're describing. Will have to check in the morning.

Thanks for posting about this.

Update: the Assenmacher 2175 cap wrench did the job. Perfect fit and sturdy construction.

BTW, I did not see any marks on the cap nor base.

I wished I didn't give away my Mityvac before I moved.
I never tried it on my C, but it worked beautifully on my Passat -- best of all, there was very little mess, took very little time, and I know I will always have quality synthetic oil of my choice replaced everytime.

Just performed my second oil change using the Motive Power Extractor 1708 and the aluminum dipstick tube adapter from Fluid Evacuators. Worked perfectly; pulled 8.5+ qt. (see pic)

Just curious, did you insert the plastic tubing all the way down the dipstick tube or just to the aluminum adapter?

Strangely, I pulled close to 8.5 qt but was only able to put in about 7.5 qt afterward before it read full on the dipstick. This leads me to believe that:

1) I did not get all of it out, and
2) The dealer overfilled the engine the last time the oil was changed - it may explain the occasional "check engine oil level" warnings I was getting sporadically.

i am trying to get the aluminum dipstick tube adapter from Fluid Evacuators. How did you go about contacting these guys?

anywhere else i can order this from?

thanks

I just called them.

See http://www.fluidevacuators.com/mercedes.html for the product description. Call their number is at the bottom of their home page to order: http://www.fluidevacuators.com/

Hello everyone. 2010 c300 4matic sport owner / sorta newbie. I just did the service A oil change myself the old fashion way underneath. I used Mobile 1 0w40, changed the copper oil plug washer, MANN HU 718/5 X metal free filter.

Now my panic mode is setting in. Wife asked the dealer yesterday the oil capacity since I wasn't near a computer nor did I have my owner's manual. He stated 8.5qt. So Advance Auto is having an oil change special (5qt Mobile 1, Mobile 1 filter -- $32.99 no, didn't use the Mobile1 filter, bought it to fit the other vehicle). So, today I do the change, all is well. Drained, put 8.5qts in. I then measure the amount I got out. ~7.5qt. Run to owners manual at this point and find the 4matic sport takes 7.4qt. 1.1qt less than the regular c300 sport!!!!! Why would there be a different capacity for the 2? And do I need to pull the plug and drain out a quart or what? Will it harm the vehicle if I don't? I have an additional copper crush washer, so if I have to, I will pull out a quart.

Thanks for the advise in advance. I've been a longtime lurker on the forums and finally joined.

That's interesting. My 2008 owner's manual says 8.5qt for all models.

But the funny thing is, when I changed my oil, I was only able to put in about 7.5qt before it read full on the dipstick. However, I attributed it to the fact that maybe I did not extract all of the old oil out using my MityVac. But now I'm curious... Can you post a picture from your owner's manual where it does say that it only takes 7.4 qt?

EDIT: I just downloaded the 2010 owners manual, and you are right: it says 7.4 qt. Wow! I'm sure the M272 engine hasn't changed from 2008 to 2010. The values in 2008 owner's manual must be incorrect for the 4Matic. Now it makes sense why I was able to extract 8.5qt but was only able to put in 7.5qt. The previous oil change was done by the dealer, and it did look like the engine was overfilled judging by the dipstick. I am guessing dealer service dept doesn't know the correct quantity either. I am really surprised MB hasn't corrected these figures for earlier year models.

Thanks for bringing this to my attention.

Here is what moofish was talking about. This is from the 2010 owner's manual:

Attachment 382608

So, the 4Matic has a smaller engine oil capacity but larger auto trans capacity, by about 1 qt.

yeah, pretty weird. So what's the consensus about the overfill? Should I worry about it and draw a quart out or let it be? My wife drove it about 60 miles and didn't notice anything. No smoke, no dash alerts.

Im going to take a look at the dipstick level here in a few minutes. If it's within range, I'm calling it okay.

With 8.5qt of oil on board, I was getting an occasional "check oil level" warning on the dashboard. If you get it, I'd say drain some out.

Engine oil pan shape of the two is different. On the 4Matic models, the transmission oil pan takes up more space and thus encroaches on the engine oil pan space. Now it all makes sense.

Sounds like a plan. I just checked the level and it's right at the high mark on the dipstick. Slightly above actually. Okay, I'll just keep an eye on it. The manual says that the quantity of oil between lower and upper mark is approximately 2.1 qts. So if I wouldn't of followed the c300 (non 4m) I would of been dead on.

Just makes you kinda pucker a lil on a 40k+ car.

MB has always warned about overfilling on the older engines since the excess can be expelled out the rear main crankshaft seal. Read the warning on the oil filler cap. Looks like nothing has changed.

I think you should drain it all out into a clean container so that you can refill the correct amount. The correct level is anywhere between the two marks.

Just read the OP. Thanks for the step-by-step guide, just what I was looking for.

FYI, I contacted MB tech support and they did confirm that the 2008 and 2009 owner manuals do in fact contain an error. The correct engine oil capacity for the 4Matic models is 7L (7.4qt).

I have also asked them to update all their dealer/service literature accordingly so that the techs don't keep overfilling the 4Matics by an extra 1 qt.

Are they the only ones that make the dipstick tube adapter? by the way can some one tell me where can I order the original oil filter for the C300 sport (not planning to buy it at the stealership) and the cabin air filter? Please advice. Anticipated thanks.

I got mine from Amazon as they offer free shipping if you order at least $25 worth of stuff. I'm sure you can find the air filter there, too...

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ef=oss_product

Ok guys, I am going to change the oil myself in my 2009 c300 4matic. I plan on purchasing a mityvac for this. Can anyone recommend which one would be best (preferably under $100). I see some people wish they got one that was 3/8" inlet, instead of the 1/4" so it would go faster.

I plan on buying the adapter for the dipstick from fluidevacuators. Does anyone know if this will fit my 2009 c300 4matic, as well as my 2011 c300 4matic? It would also be nice if this fit my 2003 mercedes sl500 r230 - I don't suppose anyone would know that either.

Lastly, I am a bit confused on how much oil I should put into my 4matics. The service manual on my sister's 2011 says 7.4Qt, but mine reads 8.5Qt. Someone mentioned above that this is an error. However, I feel that that error is a bit too important to simply mess up. Has anyone confirmed this in either direction, I would hate to put too little oil back in.

Lastly, is the adapter for the dipstick tube a 3/8" outlet?

I had a Mityvac 7400, but I don't recommend it. It started leaking and spewing oil out of the handle/pump and I only used it less than 10 times. I just ordered Pela 14K - it costs about $120 including shipping but holds 14 liters which is nice.

I think Mityvac comes with both sizes.. at least mine did, but the 3/8" hose was too big to fit in the dipstick.

Will definitely fit both your C300s. Not sure about SL500.

Read my post above in this thread. MB USA confirmed that 4Matic has 7.4 qt capacity. 2008 and 2009 owner's manual had an error.

Anyway, start with pouring in about 7 qt. Start the engine, run for a minute. Then stop it, wait, then check the oil level. Then add oil as necessary until you get to full.


It takes a 1/4" tube if you stick it inside the adapter. But you can use a 3/8" tube and slide it on top of the adapter.

That adapter works fine on the 4M. Depending on which suction device you get, you may or may not have to mate the tubing - any good plumbing supply place will have reducing union couplers to make the hook up.

I tried a MityVac, didn't like it either. I went with a 12V powered electric pump unit from Jabsco, designed for marine applications, but it works fine. Make sure the engine oil is warmed up before suction is applied.

I have the mityvac 7201 on order, trying to contact the fluidevacuators for the adapter for the dip stick, and I have the Mann fleece filter on order as well. Now I am stuck on which oil to use. I have done a bit of researching and it appears our cars take the 229.5 spec oil. And everyone says the 5w40 is what our cars came with. However, in NY in the United States, I can only find 0w40 Mobil 1 fully Synthetic, and the only Mobil 1 5w40 is ESP included (emission system protection) and is designed for diesels and conforms to spec 229.51 oil.


My question is, since plain jane 5w40 Mobil 1 synthetic isn't available, which is the lesser of two evils. ESP or 0w40? I would assume 0w40. Being that it rarely gets above 90 degrees fahrenheit in NY, wouldn't 0w40 be just as good, if not better because I get more cold starts, which it protects better against vs 5w40. Also, I should expect better gas mileage as well?

Most dealerships will put in your car 5w-30 motor oil when you take it in for service. The reason being is because they can purchase that type of oil in bulk (50gallon drums). I use 0w-40 oil because I do my own oil changes. 0w-40 should be better than 5w-40 motor oil for cold starts. I can't tell you which is gets you better gas mileage because I've only used 0w-40. For reference sake, I used to get 28-30 mpg on the C350 going 70+ on the LIE from Brooklyn to Riverhead.

Thanks for the quick response and feedback Jeff! I think I will just go with the 0w40 Mobil 1 then, I can get a gallon jug of it from Walmart anyway for dirt cheap (comparatively speaking).

The MPG thing was just theoretical. Since its thinner, I would assume less friction thus more power and fuel economy (negligible of course).

Out of the two oils that you mentioned, M1 0w-40 is the one you want. But it does not come in gallon jugs, unfortunately.

0w-40 may be slightly less thick than 5w-40 at super extreme low temps (like -20F), but at operating temps it is just as thin as 5w-40, so you would not really notice any MPG difference. Neither of the two oils is "energy conserving". As a matter of fact, it is not physically possible for an oil to be classified as "energy conserving" and meeting MB 229.5 spec at the same time.

Thanks, I have just went to a local walmart and picked up 8 quarts of Mobil 1 0w-40 Synthetic European Car formula. I was shocked that it was better than any online pricing, a mere $6.37 per quart. I bought 8 of them (since I have a 4Matic and should only use 7.4 anyway). If it turns up too low after the change, I can always get another and top it off. $51 + tax came to around $55 for my oil; not bad if you ask me...

Plus, I got a 10% discount from a friend that works there, so I got it for just under $50, plus the $15 I paid for the OEM Mann fleece filter. Brings me to $65 for the oil change, I think I did pretty well.

Sounds like a good deal. Around here, O'Rileys sometimes has it on sale for $5/qt. That's when I stock up.

Thanks, I only have one question, my cabin air filter does not smell, I have not inspected it yet. But what's wrong with just cleaning it, removing the dust with compressed air and popping it back in? It's not like its expensive ($20 or so dollars, I just hate to be wasteful...)

Also, I can't find the OEM Mann, and can only seem to locate one called TYC?

If you want Mann, Autohausaz.com has them.

The only thing I can think of why one would want to replace the cabin filter is the fact that it's activated charcoal. With time, this charcoal probably becomes less effective at neutralizing odors...

An even better deal then your walmart deal would be to go to Advance Auto Parts for their current special. 32 dollars for 5 quarts of Mobil One OW-40 and a filter.

Gotcha, thanks!


That does sound pretty good, but I can't find that deal online, maybe its in store only?

I just phoned my dealership, they said that they carry 5w-40 for gas for 7.37, not bad at all, plus my father just got a $100 gift card for that dealership in the mail for free. But what I am thinking, is that I read the back of the bottles with ESP (emission system protection) it says its for diesel and gas and conforms to 229.51 MB approval. I'm going to check out the bottle my dealer sells and says is the right one and see if its the same thing. If it is, then I can get a gallon (4 quarts for around $21).

Supposedly there are two versions of M1 5w-40 out there... one is ESP (the one sold at PepBoys), and one is non-ESP (the one carried at MB dealerships). If you happen to find the non-ESP one, can you please snap some pics for us? I'm curious as I have never actually seen it.

There is also another M1 variety: 5w-40 Truck&SUV, sold at Wal-Mart and other places, but that one does not carry any official MB approvals.

I am a newbee here, and am contemplating doing my first Oil Change myself...I have a Mityvac on order, and am trying to find the correct oilfilter and oil cap wrench..Any ideas as to the exact size of the wrench ?...I am also concerned that the dealership I bought the car from in August, might be using M1 5-30...That does not seem correct to me based on what I know at this point...Has anyone heard of the dealers using M1 5-30 ?...If so I would like to change it out... This is my first Benz...I am still impressed with it even after 4 months !!:nix:

You don't need a wrench for the oil cap. Your hands will work, you don't want to start wrench tightening it because then you will only be abel to take if off witha wrench. If it is too hard for your hand, loosen it with an adjustable wrench or pliers or something, then just re hand tighten.

The oil filter is Mann Fleece HU718/5X. I have found this price to be pretty good, they also sell a lot fo 10 for pretty cheap too! http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exe...008-2010+(Mann)

Don't use M1 5w-30, some dealers just use whatever. Only use 0w-40 or 5w-40 (if you can find it where you live) that doesn't have ESP additive for diesels. Conforms to 229.5 spec, not 229.51.

You will also need a dipstick tube adapter. Otherwise, you won't be able to suck it all out. Info was provided earlier in this thread.


The correct size is 74.5mm, 14 flute. I bought this one and it has worked well:
http://www.handsontools.com/Assenmac...nt_p_2716.html

There was no way I could have unscrewed it by hand. Mine was on so tight, I stripped a couple of plastic wrenches from local auto part stores before I got this metal Assenmacher one.

It is definitely an instore deal. Just click the current circular and you can see the deal. I bought like 30 quarts of oil last time when they ran that promotion. Cleaned the store out. lol

Joe - Advance Auto Parts is offering Mobil 1 0w-40 for 50% off. You have to order online and pick it up instore. 3.99 a quart.

So, which one is it, Advance Auto Parts or Auto Zone?

Sorry, I mistyped. I have corrected it. I posted this on the C63 AMG forums also.

WOW, THAT'S A LOW PRICE!

Haha, sorry, I couldn't help it. I just ordered the maximum 12 quarts and it came to a grand total of $52.01. Fantastic, made my day, thanks Jeff!

No problem bro!! Least I can do to help you out. You should do what I did and buy more!

Very sneaky deal on that oil, you don't see the discount until you go to the product page. Expires at midnight, luckily my local store still had stock.

Does anyone know who else might sell the dipstick tube adapter to remove oil from the dipstick location on 4matics? I have tried Fluid Evacuators the past 2 weeks and all of my calls and emails have gone unanswered. I can't find it anywhere else. Any help would be appreciated!

jctevere: If you find another source please post it here. I am in the same boat and the only thing I need is the adapter! B service time already arrived. Does any forum member has an additional one that is willing to sell?

FluidEvacuators is out of business? That would be bad, I knew I should have bought two of those adapters.

I hope they are not out of business. Where does the MB dealers order theirs? In case they are out of business, can you suck up the oil by attaching the pump hose to the dipstick tube? Please advice.

I think this could be something similar from another supplier:

http://www.ntxtools.com/network-tool...I-ADP-MCD.html

Not sure, it doesn't give dimensions for the fittings. It's specific to the fluid evacuator they sell - but so is the other model, you just adapt your tubing to the suction side of the fitting. The key is getting the fitting with the side that fits inside the MB dip tube opening, the suction side can be put together as needed to whatever tubing your suction device uses.

There is a poster here - "kevink" I think - who figured all this out initially, the issue with the 4MATIC, diptube suction top adapter, etc. Maybe he will spot this thread and chime in.

I contacted John Dow industries who makes the adapter. The website that carries it knew nothin besides its price.

He said he is not 100% sure of fitment. But he made it for Mercedes dealerships to use and only carries one model. He said it fits almost all mercedes disptick oil tubes. Never heard any complaints.

I think I'm just going to bite the bullet and try it out.

I think its a decent bet, and its on sale anyway. As long as the diptube end fitment is correct, you can work with the suction side - any good plumbing supply place will sell various size reducing union couplers to mate to whatever tube diameter your suction device comes with - I had to do that even with the fluidevacuators part.

Good luck, let us know.

I just got my Pela 6000 oil extractor and did the oil change last night. Easy and no mess but takes a little bit of time (20 min.) to suck out the 6 quarts (4 cylinder engine). Still highly recommended!

Regards, l

Mobil 1 0W40 meets 229.5 specs.

M1 5W40 meets 229.51 and is clearly labeled "for gasoline and diesel engines." That's the one the dealers are using.

Just today I used my Topsider to pull the oil out of a friend's CLK430. He works for a local dealer and bought the 5W40 from them so it's the latest.

Yesterday I bought three cases of 0W40 from NAPA which is on sale for $5.79 per quart until the end of December.

I ordered the adapter. Once I receive it, will let you know if it fits properly.

Ok, I have some good news and I have some bad news...

The good news is that I finally got my John Dow Industries Mercedes Adapter (Merry Christmas to me). The bad news is that it won't work for my w204 c300... HOWEVER, I did have somewhat of an idiot moment, I finally opened my Mityvac 7201 I bought of amazon and I found a rubber adapter pre-fitted on the tubing that will fit snugly inside my dipstick adapter.

Here are some pictures:

This is the adapter I ordered from the second NTX tools website (not the fluid evacuators adapter). The packaging says its from John Down Industries and took me about 2 weeks to get.

Attachment 382453

The wider part on the left is the exact same size as the dipstick adapter, so it will not go inside of the dipstuck tube, nor the outside to create suction. I suppose one could somehow tape the adapter to the dipstick and get it to work, but it is not plug and play. The smaller part fits inside the dipstick, but will not create suctions as it is too small, even with the rubber o-rings.

This second picture, however, is of the rubber end adapter that came with my mityvac tubing:

Attachment 382454

This has three steps that get gradually wider. The first notch is small enough to fit into the big side of my adapter (which is the same size as my dipstick tube). I haven't had time to test it out as it got dark and family is arriving, but theoretically this should fit into my dipstick and suck out all the oil, eliminating the need for me to use an adapter... You can see what I am talking about in this third picture:

Attachment 382455

I am kind of kicking myself for not just opening my Mityvac sooner as I wouldn't have bought and waited for this adapter to arrive that doesn't even work...

I will let you know what happens when I finish my oil change (hopefully by sunday). But just to clarify. This adapter DOES NOT work, unless you modify the setup.

Wow, if the small end doesn't make a snug, suction capable fit inside the diptube opening, who is buying this thing from them to suck out their MB crankcase? The diptube opening is flared, so you would think that as you insert the small o-ringed end into the diptube opening, it would snug up as it bottomed out after having been inserted all the way. I don't get it.

My next change is in 2 weeks, I will measure the diameter of the fluid extractor adapter part to see how it compares.

To be honest, I haven't tried it out fully yet. I was just experimenting and figuring out what to do before the actual oil change. Perhaps by some rare stroke of luck this adapter actually will work, but I highly doubt it. If my father has some spare time today I will try and finish this. If not, looks like it will have to wait until sunday or even as far as tuesday.

Just remove your dipstick and insert the adapter - if it makes a snug leakproof fit, it works (you can do the actual oil change later). If its too small and doesn't snug up, it won't work. Don't worry about the suction end - you always have to adapt that end to the suction device you are using, since this adapter is made for a particular suction pump. But you can make that connection with with those adapters you are showing that came with your suction device, or by getting the necessary reducing union couplers at any good plumbing supply place (I notice you are on LI, Ace Hardware is where I got my couplers, they have a good plumbing department). Even with the fluidevacuators part, you have to adapt the suction end as needed to whatever your particular device is, as the part is made for their specific evacuator unit.

You got yours in two weeks? Lucky you! I ordered mines on 12/13/2010 and have not received it yet! I will post results once mines arrives. So fluid evacuator are out of business?

ADAPTOR and MITYVAC Tank-Pump
 

Good news: FluidEvacuators is still in business with plenty of adaptors. I spoke with the owner, Kevin McMurry yesterday (note phoenix is 2hrs later than east coast time) . I called the 800 number at the top of this page, and the adaptor is shown at the bottom:

http://www.fluidevacuators.com/probe.html

http://www.fluidevacuators.com/mbenz.gif

I was the one that first found this place. When at the dealer for an oil change I watched the tech and asked questions. He showed me the adaptor, and I saw their brand name on the side of a drain tank. He said there was no MB part numbers .... the MB techs just order from FluidEvac's, the primary supplier to MB dealers in the US .

I've had good luck with the 7201 mityvac hand pump/evacuator, shown here:

http://www.mityvac.com/pages/products_fee.asp#07201

The small end of the Adaptor is about 10mm (.39") OD, and the largest tube that came with the 7201 is .41" . So just go to pep boys and get some low pressure SAE30R7 3/8" fuel hose. Use about 3" ... Nice snug fit. Low pressure drop allows highest flow (none of the Mityvac transitions are used) .
.
.

Castrol European 0W30 comes close to EC grading, and is 229.5 certified. We have used it a few years now due to ~cold winters in delaware.

After changing to it, we saw a 2 mpg increase on the same summer trip from upper delaware to lower Virginia .... about 400 miles.

Interesting. Most people report worse MPG after switching to it because it is not an energy conserving oil - its HT/HS is much higher than most typical Xw-30 oils. What oil did you run in that car before?

I used to run this oil in my 530i for a long time with good results. Here's a UOA in case anyone is interested.

Yes, it has a high 100C viscosity rating and is ACEA3, but still an XW-30 rating.

Dealer did 1st change, and I think they used the current MB prefered 5W-40Formula M, pumped by hose from the drum to the "Adaptor" and into the dip-tube. I did the next change with 0-W40, as the Formula M is only availible in drums. The 5W-40 ESP Formula M diesel oil is available at dealers in quart containers. All other changes were with the Castrol.

The Benz is wifes car, and no amount of logic (from me) will convince her to warm up the engine before loading it, even when left out in 8 degree cloudy weather for 8 hrs. Thus my change to the 0W-30 GC.:slap:

It might not be a big deal, but I had read some posts where cars with M1 0W-40 had increased oil consumption at around 100K miles.
.
.

LOL! Reminds me of someone I know in my household!

I seriously doubt it, but in any case, we most likely will not own this car much past 100K anyway.

..... for 2010 models.:nix:

But, if you go to the latest MB owners manual downloads, it shows 1 Q less for the 4matics for only the 2010 and 2011. But for 2008 and 2009 downloads it still shows 8.5Q's for all models:

http://www.mbusa.com/mercedes/vehicles/class/class-C

So it also could reflect a design change in 2010. Several of us with early 4matics found that with the dealer type adaptor, ~8.5 Q's were sucked out and returned .... nyca was the most recent change.

I hope 08 and 09 4matic DIY owners carefully check oil level before change, and use either drain plug or an evacuator with the dip-tube adaptor for the job, and check amount drained and installed, and post the results here.
.

I just did my oil change last week. My first oil change at 10,000 miles was performed at the dealer. I checked my oil dipstick before the change, when it was warmed up the level was above the max point! :smash:

I then did my oil change and took out about 8.3 quarts (to my judgment). But this might make sense because I am pretty sure there might have been about .2 or so quarts left in the dipstick that I wasn't able to suck out. I think I should have reinstalled the oil filter before the mityvac started sucking air.

Anyway, I replaced with 7.5 qts and my new oil level is just about at the max point. Oops, I forgot to mention my car is a 2009 c300 4matic. Too bad my sister on her 2011 opted for the maintenance plan. I would have been able to see if hers has a smaller pan or something when she needs her oil done...

For ALL 4matic models.
There was no design change. The 2008 and 2009 owner manuals (as well as service manuals that dealers use) contain an error. I already alerted MBUSA to this mistake, and they thanked me for it and promised to get this corrected.

Well, if someone dumped 8.5 qt in there previously, then that's what you're going to extract, no mystery there. It doesn't mean it's the correct amount though.

Sadly the dealers are also going off of this incorrect documentation and they're overfilling these engines. When we bought our CPO'd 2008, the engine was overfilled, and I was even getting occasional "check engine oil level" warnings on the dashboard. I did suck out about 8.5 quarts out of it when I did the oil change. But it only needed 7.5 quarts of fresh oil to get it back to max again. Dealers blindly just dump 8.5 quarts in there because that's what the documentation is telling them. They don't even bother to check that it's overfilled afterwards.

Damn, I just looked up what damages could have been caused by overfilling the engine with oil...

http://wiki.answers.com/Q/What_damag...motor_with_oil

I came upon this article. I am a bit pissed as I do have a squeaking, I thought it might just be a belt, but I am afraid it is something more serious... And what's worse is that I don't have a leg to really stand on as far as proving the fault on the dealer... My enigne oil was brown and dirty, but no sludge (I dunno if synthetics jsut get this way) and I do remember seeing a bit of shiny material and thinking, oooh, kind of cool.

I did have a pretty bad engine misfire two months ago. Where the CEL was blinking and the engine was running terribly. To my knowledge and research the that the rods and pistons (if that makes sense) were out of sync. Luckily I turned off the car and restarted it and all was fine. But I wonder if this had anything to do with it...

I think this article is just presenting worst case scenario if the engine was seriously overfilled (like double the amount of oil). One other thing that I've read is that excess oil may get into your exhaust and poison the catalytic converters.

In our case, that 1 extra quart shouldn't really cause serious issues, hopefully, but who knows.

Engine oil turns brown and then eventually black with age. That's normal.

If you had a blinking CEL, then most likely there are some fault codes stored in the ECU that could help you diagnose what happened. Have the dealer read the codes when you're in for service.

The two changes I did without the adapter, I definitely got less oil out - each time I only put in what I removed. The adapter works, period - gets more oil out then the diptupe method. I've done two oil changes with the adapter and have another coming next month.

I have a 2009 4MATIC, can't comment on the spec change for the 2010s/11s.

I did not see that in the chart recently posted.

... and don't forget all the owners manual downloads at the MB web site.


Right, but your 1/2 done. When you then put 8.5 back in, and dipstick has same reading, no problem there.

What suction method did you use?

Before I condem MB on such an obbvious change, I'd like to see a few more empties with either drain plug or suctions with MB adaptor methods, with 7.5 out and 7.5 in, oil at top of cross hatched zone.

.

How much came out, and went back in, for those 2 changes?
.

About 7 for the first two, without the adapter. And that's with leaving the diptube in there "slurping" for 30 minutes. Works much better with the adapter, gets "that elusive missing quart" out and its a quicker suction time.

I use the dipstick when I add in any case.

Also, recall our earlier discussions about the dipstick in the 4M - you pull it out after driving the car, its bone dry. There is some kind of venturi action going on in that pan that sucks that dipstick bone dry, and you have to re-insert it a second time to get a reading. As I recall, the people with rear wheel drive cars do not report the same thing, do this appears to be something else unique to the 4MATIC pan.

There is no way the mechanical parts can change their relationships to each other because that relationship is connected by gears and chains. If a chain tensioner fails and a chain skips a tooth, you will know it right away, believe me. And, the pistons and connecting rods are an assembly and if one comes apart, the engine will likely be destroyed.

In the past, overfilling the oil past the midpoint on the stick resulted in a fast burnoff down to the midpoint plus forcing some out past the rear main seal which ended up on the garage floor.

Which is why the oil filler cap still has the warning about overfilling.

The V-6s seem to be different in that they can be filled to the max point on the stick and the level stays there until the next change.

To put correct oil levels in perspective ......

Many moons ago, I showed a bio grad student friend in the next appartment, how to change the oil in his new Vega.... About a year or 2 later, that lesson empowered him to change the oil in his friend's Audi ... drain oil out, put new oil in. He politely refused to take any money, and did a final dipstick check, and noted the level seemed a bit too high ......

He got a call from ex-friend with audi later that day, and, you guessed it, the trans seized up because he had drained the gearbox, and overfilled the engine oil (not enough time to do any harm there).

C300 OIL Capacities, from Dealer Tech
 

Just got off the phone with local service manager. He said all C300 models, all years take 9.0 quarts (wrong answer). I told him the Owner Manual differences after 2009, including rwd vs 4matic.

I asked him if he would check the manuals, etc, and get back to me, and he said "I'll find out right now" and I could hear him walking across the shop floor to the tech at the drain area. (I know the shop layout)

He came back to phone, and he was right only on the 9.0Q, for the C63 V8.

The Tech told him that there was a change in the oil pan design for 2010 and 2011 4matics ... dropping capacity to 7.5 quarts. For 08 and 09, all but the C63 get 8.5 Q's.

As I said before, all MB oil capacity related documentation, all the MB web site info on capacities is true, as well as your Owner's Manual for your car.

Chill

.

What purpose would that serve? It'd be interesting for someone with an access to MB part catalog to verify if the oil pan part number has in fact changed from 2009 to 2010...

I did my change using the dipstick tube adapter from fluid evacuators. 8.5 qt came out. 7.5 qt went in and I was already at full on the dipstick. I'll be sure to watch it next time I do an oil change to see if I hadn't made a mistake last time.

But once again, I wanted to make a note on the fundamental difference between RWD and 4Matic. 4Matics have a larger trans/differential fluid capacity (not coincidentally by about 1 qt). This is because of the larger volume being taken up by the 4Matic mechanism. This mechanism encroaches on the engine oil pan area, and that's why 4Matic oil pan is about 1qt smaller than RWD. And to the best of my knowledge, this applies to all model years.

By the way, here's the response I received from MB USA when I asked them about the engine oil capacity of our 2008 C300 4matic:
This was about 2 months ago.

Me too.

Why would they change the pan design? I wonder if they changed the pan design because of the inability of the "old" pan to accept a diptube to the low point for suction, or because they finally solved the venturi issue which is why my dipstick is always initially dry!

I can tell you that they did not change the oil pan in the 2010/2011 models. At least not a change that would allow me to put my tube all the way down the dipstick tube. Same on my sister's 2011 c300 4matic as on my 2009 c300 4matic. I am guessing that the tech just made that up because he noticed the manuals had a new reading and just assumed that it was because it was a new pan redesign.

So are we supposed to fill it to near the "max" point or in between the two dots? I put 7.5 qts in and took out about 8.3. I had the first oil change at the dealer, so I don't know how much they put in. I would assume that they put in 8.5 meaning that I left about .2 or so quarts in the pan. I don't really think its that big of a deal, but I couldn't get anymore out. It would just keep slurping and nothing else would come through the tube. Should I have reinstalled the new oil filter before this occurred? My father told me to wait until its done and dump some new oil in the oil filter reservoir and then reinstall the oil filter. Was I not supposed to do that and that was a bad habit he passed on to me?

My oil reading after the engine was warm was right at the maximum point when I added 7.5 quarts.

I really don't see this as a problem that needs solving. On any other car, you will never get an accurate reading when you pull the dipstick the first time. It'll have oil all over it, so you'll need to wipe it, put it back, and then pull it out again to read the level. No different on our C300s.

As I said before (I think ..) most other mfg's don't directly design for suction evacution/draining from the top of the diptube. For this, MB runs the diptube about 1/8" off the bottom. So when running, the "filled" zone on the dipstick is below the oil level in the pan, but inside the diptube.

As the car runs, the pcv pulls a vacuum in the crankase. The orings at the top of the dipstick will let the relatively thin air to pull slowly down the dip tube, all the way down, and allow a tiny rise of oil in the pan/crankcase.

Almost all other mfg's use the drain plug to empty oil. The dip tube is just long enough to guide the dipstick by the crankshaft, and end it ends above the oil level in the crankcase. The PCV has no tendency to dry off the dipstick at the level markings.

what adapter did you use?

The fluidevacuators one. I need another oil change now, but its so damn cold and snowy, I am putting it off until we get some moderation.

can someone confirm Fluid Evacuator is still in business? I am trying to call them\email them but got no response! ARGGGH!

I finally had some free time and changed the oil in my 2009 C300 Sport this weekend using a Motive Power Extractor 1708. The dipstick tube adapter from John Dow does not work on my car. It took me almost a month to get it. the Motive pump comes with a smaller flexible tube which I insterted all the way thru. Pressurized the extractor to approximately 12 in.Hg (as explained in a previous post) and pulled 8qt of oil in 35 minutes before the pump started sputtering and the pressure dropped to 0. Change the oil filter and O rings as well plus change the air cabin filter too. I also checked the brake fuild and coolant levels and they were o.k. The experience was not bad at all and by doing this myself I save me quite a few dollars! the "stealership" wanted $600.00 aproximately to do all that! By the way I also reset the Service B indicator message as well.

I called 1 month ago... Kevin was there and had plenty of inventory.

It would be better to have them supply a MB only upgrade vendor with lots of 10.

Got around to doing a change today - no way the 2009 4MATIC has only 7.4 quarts, I pulled out 8 with the fluidevac adapter and an electric suction pump. And that doesn't count the filter. I don't think I'm overfilling it everytime, I'm not near the max line on the stick.

This was my 5th change. You know, why is the dipstick measuring end that pale red color - its so hard to see the oil line on it, couldn't they have made it white?

Let's see if I can be lucky enought to get one! If someone has a spre that hey need to get rid of, I am standing by to purchase it!

Tried calling them so many times for the adapter and they never seem to pick up. :X

just use a rubber stopper with a hole through it...or even a cork

I just called and they were very diligent in taking my order. I called them @ 8am PST and they picked up right away. Looks like I will be doing my oil change very soon.

I did my first oil extractor change by inserting the tube into the dip stick tube. I am excited to do it with the adapter because it will be easier and I will know that I have a perfect seal.

Now....I have to go get the oil, Mobil 1: 0W - 40, European Car Formula. Its tough to find a good price on this specific oil. The local NAPA store said they could do it for $7.50/qt.(I just missed the sale where they sold it for less than $6/qt.) No one else carries it. Any ideas?

Really?! Guess I gotta try and give them another call. I just recently did an oil change through the oil pan. Got most of the 8.5QT out.

As for the oil, O'Reilly's should have oil on sale right for $4.99/QT which ends on the 26th. Might wanna jump on that quickly because they run out fast.

Email Reply From Fluidevacuators
 

From: kmcmurray2@cox.net To: KevinK2, Subject: Re: Mercedes adaptor Part # PR381Q
Date: May 24, 2011 11:16 AM

Glad you like the adapter !

We are a manufacturer and sell our products through "Service Champ" and "Installers Edge" which sell to quick lubes in the USA.
We do sell direct, but 90% of our business comes from our distributors . We also run a few other unrelated companies. We return all calls and emails provided they leave a name,call back #, and reason for the call. If they leave a message or email without that info we do not call back assuming it is a sales call.

You posting on the MB forum explains the recent calls about the Mercedes adapter. My first question when someone only orders a single probe or adapter is if they have our unit. The main concern is we have a special machined quick disconnect end from the Mercedes adapter to our evacuation hose. I explain that to people in depth then, they want to return the item because it does not work or they can't adapt it to work with their machine even though I warned them about it . ( This is not a concern, since you can use 3/8" fuel hose for a direct conection to the adaptor .. KevinK2 )

Large orders are welcome and preferred !!

Thanks again for the order and spreading the word about our products !

Thanks,
Kevin McMurray

---- KevinK2 wrote:
>
> Kevin,
>
> I bought one from you and it works great. A few questions:
>
> 1) do you still sell it to individuals, ie just 1 unit?
>
> 2) I'm in a MB forum, I recomended this part in the "oil change" thread, but lately people say you don't return calls or emails.
>
> 3) would you sell lots of 10, 20, etc, to an independent mercedes shop?
>
>

Not to dispute or argue what you've posted, but "promised to get it corrected" where? I just downloaded the 2008 Owners Manual and it still shows:
Then again, I don't see where in that e-mail she promised a "correction"... Only that she "forwarded your information to the appropriate area in the organization to check the documentation". :nix:

I guess I'll see how much I'm going to get out when I change mine in the next week or so, and I'll post the results. My last oil change was done at the dealer (I got a freebie "first scheduled service" when I bought the car :D).

Just had our 2008 4MATIC done at dealer ... they used 8 of the 9 Q's of 0W-30 we brought, and level is at top of narrowed cross hatch, which is max.

Pete is right on this, 8.5 Q's would have overfilled it.

BTW, here is the 2011 oil viscosity chart. Only the first 2 groups are approved by MB, except the 5W-50.

http://www.mbusa.com/vcm/MB/DigitalA...ual/2011_c.pdf ( pg 309 )

M-1 still on sale
 

And my '08 C300 RWD takes eight quarts to the top of the dipstick.

BTW, I picked up a case of M1 0W-40 today at NAPA and the on-sale price of $4.99 per quart is still active. This is the cheapest I've seen it in several years.

I now have 28 quarts on the shelf so I'm set for a while.

I'm sure you meant 0W-40, not 0W-30, didn't you?

Nope. 0W-30 Castrol synthetic, a 229.5 approved ACEA A3 oil with a good rep'n.

It is grouped with your 0W-40 in the latest MB viscosity vs temperature range selection chart, linked in my previous post. If I lived in florida, or other southern states, I'd go xW-40. But with single digit winters here, and one driver that is not into warm-ups, I like it. Trip mpg's went up by 2 mpg.

A couple of other facts:

These cars are shipped with 5W-30 in the engine, for 1st 10,000 miles, per MB choice.

Of all the 104 different 229.5 oils listed by MB, about 40% are 0W-30 or 5W-30, the rest are 0W-40 or 5W-40.

http://bevo.mercedes-benz.com/bevolisten/229.5_en.html

.

You're right. They haven't actually promised anything. I'm fairly sure dealerships still keep overfilling these poor engines.

And it makes you wonder why in 2009 the 0w-30 was not to be used if ambient temps were above 86F, but for 2011 it is now OK...

Attachment 381697

Yup, 0W30:

no limit for 05-07 (Starteckinfo)
no visc chart for 08 ?
86F limit for 09 and 10 ( but groups-columns were the same)
no limit for 11, but now all groups based on lower viscosity number.

:nix:

.

fluidevacuators should carry a home garage DIY type suction device, people would buy such a device from them, the ones they sell are really professional ($$$s) units designed for commercial shops, too much for the DIYer.

You can get a cheap oil extractor just about anywhere on line these days, including Amazon.

Spec Comparo:

M1 0W-40
M1 5W-40 ( typical dealer oil )
CE 0W-30 ( 229.5 oil for colder climates )


---------------------------------------- Mobil 1 ------- Castrol
------------------------Mobil 1------ Formula M ------ Euro
------------------------ 0W-40 ------ 5W-40 -------- 0W-30
Viscosity, cSt
@ 40º C -------------- 75 ------------ 79 --------------72
@ 100º C ------------13.5 ---------- 13.2 ----------- 12.2
Viscosity Index ------ 185 --------- 168 ------------ 167

HTHS Visc ----------- 3.8 ---------- 3.7 --------------3.5
Pour Point ---------- (-39) -----------xx ------------ (-54)
Total Base Num ---- 11.8 ---------- 8 ------------- 10.3

.

Engine Oil Capacities
 

************************************************** ****

I found this information in MB's site today which has quite different values of engine oil capacities to the list posted above a few months ago! :word:

Which model year is this for?

The site directed me to this manual page without asking the year. I would think this is for all current models.

In any case, I took my 2009 C300 yesterday to a nearby lub shop and have them drained (actually vaccumed sucked from the dipstick hole) the oil out of the car, and saw about 8 litres out of the engine! :eek:

The first and only previous oil change was done at the MB dealer!:nix:

When I checked the dipstick before the oil change, it was actually a bit 'above' the max level. So instead of filling it of what's out, I only put in 7 litres of Shell Helix Ultra 5w40. Replaced the filter with MB 000-180-26-09 fleece. The dipstick level is now right between the 'min' and 'max'. :y

It still is on sale though not at all Napa stores... So you might have to check around online for pricing and then call the store to confirm availability.

I picked up 3 cases last week... :D

" I found this information in MB's site today which has quite different values of engine oil capacities to the list posted above a few months ago! "

That weblink showed 6.5L for both awd and rwd. Not correct for amount for either model.

The only reliable info for capacities is shown in post 239 above, from 2010 and 2011 owners manuals, hard copy, or online found here:

http://www.mbusa.com/mercedes/servic...owners_manuals. (pg 305 for 2011)

The most accurate chart for viscosity ranges vs temperature is found in the 2011 owners manual, pg 309. PLEASE, this document "resists" geetng an image for me. If someonee can capture that viscosity chart, please post it here.

------------------------------------------------------------

If you have a 4MATIC:

For DIY's, get the Fluidevacuators MB adaptor for complete evacuation of old oil (or use drain plug), and add 7.5 Q's for midrange on stick (or 8 Q's to reach the "max", ie top of smaller crosshatch zone)

For dealer or Quicky-lube changes, tell them to put 7.5 or 8 Q's, based on the above results.

.

OK, I recently reread this thread in its entirety and now understand that all this talk about a discrepancy in the capacity/# of quarts used only relates to the 4Matic models, whereas for the RWD models (which is what I have), it is unquestionably 8.5 quarts

Just did my first oil change last night, so I'll make a few observations...

I used the MityVac 7201. Initially, I wasn't very impressed in that it took some time (approximately 45 minutes) to extract 8.5 quarts... HOWEVER, I did realize midway through the process that the rubber adapter I used between two different size hoses was not sealed properly (I could hear it seeping air). I should also mention that I tried to get every last drop of oil out, which may have added to the total time to extract it all.

Speaking of the rubber adapter... My MityVac came with 2... Both of which are flared (wider on one end compared to the other (see 1st pic below)).
Pic #1 Attachment 212439

And since I was one of the unfortunate ones not to receive any response from fluidevacuators, I decided to try it with the rubber adapter. I did take some measurements (See pictures 2 & 3 below) of it as well as of the dipstick plug, and although the rubber plug measured wider than the dipstick plug, I can only assume that the dipstick opening (at the top of the dipstick pipe) is wider at the top and flares down towards the bottom because that rubber adapter did fit inside and is felt like it made a good seal.
Pic #2Attachment 212440

Pic #3Attachment 212441

Point is, if you have a MityVac, chances are you don't need the fluidevacuators adapter.

I did check the oil prior to starting (last oil change was at the dealer) a number of times (over the past few days) and it looked to me like it was a hair or two over the MAX level.

After all was said and done, I did actually pull a bit more that 8.5 quarts (probably 8.75 and I'm guessing I could have pulled 9 Qts but it was getting late and I decided "enough is enough"). And replaced it with 8.5 quarts. Checked it a few times since last night and it seems to be a bit below the MAX level... That's good enough for me!

I used Mobil-1 0W-40 (bought 3 cases @ Napa during their most recent sale), I had ordered a Mann HU 718/5 X Metal-Free Oil Filter from Amazon.com.

For those who were wondering, yes, I did replace 3 O-rings (one large one and 2 small ones at the bottom of the filter holder...

I had a difficult time finding the right size tool to remove the filter cover, finally settled on the OEM/76 mm. dia. oil filter "B" cap wrench from Autozon, and though it seemed to fit fine at the store, once I got home and tried to use it, it was slipping... Ended up having to wrap some tape around the top of the filter housing, and managed to get it loose, but when I went to tighten it, (even with the tape still there), I couldn't get it past 15 N.m (whereas the cap has "25 N.m" engraved on it)... needless to say it is hand tight and have checked it and found no leaks so far. Point here is the "B-Type" and/or 76mm oil filter cap wrench/tool is too big. I'm going to try and find a 74.5mm one that has been mentioned in this thread.

Thank you to all who contributed to this thread so far.

Yeah, I went through a couple of those 76mm wrenches... none of them worked. Ended up buying this:
https://mbworld.org/forums/4378041-post171.html

Nice write up! I never even thought about trying one of my old MityVac adapters for the dipstick tube. Like you noticed, it would have probably done the job just fine.

I'll try that out, thanks again.

While I realize that having the proper tools will make the job easier, I noticed that there was someone who ordered one adapter that ended up not fitting... So again, it is not about the extra $14 or the $25... Its more about the hassle of finding the "perfect" tool. This, happens to have worked out as a great alternative (for me, at least). Hopefully someone else will try it and report back; as I'm 95% sure it'll accomplish the job.

The correct size is 74.5mm, 14 flute. I bought this one and it has worked well:
http://www.handsontools.com/Assenmac...nt_p_2716.html

There was no way I could have unscrewed it by hand. Mine was on so tight, I stripped a couple of plastic wrenches from local auto part stores before I got this metal Assenmacher one.

That tool fits all MB and Porsche spin-on filters going back decades. I have one.

That was not the F.E. adaptor, another brand.

Good idea to try the mytivac bushing. I had suggested just using a short length of 3/8" SAE fuel hose, and jamming a 3/8" brass hose barb in there to assure no leak under vacuum.

.

Thank you for this post, saved me 10 or 20 bucks on the MB adapter I was about to order.
I tried the adapter came with MityVac last weekend, it worked fine. It only took 20 mins to extract 8-8.5 quarts (4Matic). The oil was hot, about 80C, maybe that helped the flow a lot.

By the way, I got mine oil filter socket here

http://www.namotorsports.net/detail.cfm/part_cd/CT267

It fits perfectly.

I'm glad it helped :y

And rightback at you :bow:

Did you have to empty the oil in the mityvac half way through the process or did it hold all 8.5 quarts?

Actually, yes I did. According to the instructions, it is supposed to shut off on its own once the oil reaches a certain level in it. But rather than wait until it got too full, and since I had assumed that the dealer over filled it by a bit over 8.5 qts, I opted to pour some oil into a separate container and then continued.

Had to do that anyway before transporting the used oil to AutoZone.

Mobil is offering a mail-in-rebate for purchases of Mobil-1 oil at participating retailers listed on their website: http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...011_Rules.aspx

Alternatively, Autozone has an instant $10 coupon for every 5 quarts you buy from them: http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...t_AutoZone.pdf

nice advice guy,, think to do by my self http://godimage.co.cc/thumb/base/ima...34/b/happy.gif

I'm doing the first oil change on my wife's 2009 c300 sport (not the first oil change, just the first one I'm doing myself), and I bought a mityvac to hopefully make the job a little less messy/easier. Do I need any adapters or anything special to put the tube down the dipstick? Seems like I saw another post where someone was using a dipstick adapter.

My other question is what else will I need other than the oil and filter? I just want to make sure I have all my bases covered since I still have a few days to gather parts/supplies.

Thanks!

You don't say which MityVac you have, (I have the 7201), and I used one of the rubber adapters that came with the unit

Other members purchased a metal adapter from some retaier ti believe its www.fluidevacuators.com.

And by theay, you don't have to stick the tube into the entire length of the dipstick tube. In fact, with the way I did it, the tube from the Vac went into the wide end of the rubber adapter, but it was not sticking out of the other side. So in reality, its actually sucking the oil to the top of the dipstick tube, through the adapter, then the tube, and into the MityVac.

I have found the MityVac to be a bit more time consuming than the traditional drain at the bottom process, and you'll have to pump it a few times to get all the oil out.... but all in all, it is cleaner, less hassle than lifting the car and slidng under, getting burned by that first gush of oil... Black fingernails...

You should browse through the entire thread. Yeah its long and sure the few a few posts you can skip over but in general, I found it useful.

^ +1

.

IGB: It is the 7201. So basically I don't need the adapter from fluidevacuators...I can just push the rubber coupling that is supplied with the mityvac into the top of the dipstick tube, and it will form a good enough seal to suck the oil out the top of the dipstick. That's pretty dang cool if you ask me! I am stoked about using this mityvac! oil changes are not difficult, just always seem to be messy. No matter how hard I try, I always spill oil somewhere or get it on my clothes, or drip it on the motor somewhere. :smash:

IYE Does the dipstick reach far enough into the oil pan to get all of the oil, or would it be a good idea to add the extra bit of small tubing to get everything?

will read through the rest of the thread now. :)

My only advice to get the oil out quicker for MityVac users are:

1) Make sure you open up the engine oil fill cap - air promotes better flow
2) Makes sure where the 'suck' tubes enter the MityVac bin - that there is a tight seal
** sometimes because of gravity, it bends the tubes a bit away from the inlet thus loosening the seal there & causing no suckage.

Anyone using the 7300 Pneumatic Mityvac?

Yes, it reaches fully down. Sucking from the top of the tube is exactly how oil changes have been done by mercedes for over a decade, as I recall. The aluminum adaptor is a typical MB shop part, for repetitive useage. IGB's rubber bushing from the Mytivac kit is the functionally the same thing ( .... I had posted same concept a while back).

You don't want to add the engine side plastic tubing, and absolutely not if you have a 4MATIC, as you will leave a quart or two behind.

------------------

BTW: *** All Members, please click on User CP at the top left of page, just below the thread title. Then add the following to either Profile and/or Signature , selecting buttons on the left side of that page: year, model, 4MATIC or RWD, and Location (city, state, and non-US/Canada country if needed. This helps response to issues, like tires. ***

.

Not sure what context this is in, but I usually connect 2 tubes to my MityVac to evac my oil from my '09 C300.
& am able to get ~8.5 qts out.

Should I not expect the same process with my new GLK350/4?

Was it a 4matic? see my BTW about 3 posts up!
Likely not. Best to use the MB method, suck from top. You've got 2 proven methods for rwd and 4matic, recently described.

.

Ok, just got done with the oil change. Turned out to be more of a hassle than I thought. I really thought the mityvac was going to make it simple and clean. It could have...if I had of been better prepared.

Apparently the mercedes dealership way overfilled the oil. I mean, when I checked it I knew it read over the max, but I had no idea how much till today.

I used the method of pushing the rubber coupling into the dipstick and evac'ing the oil straight out the dipstick. It pulled out just a hair over 8L of oil before it started gurgling and sputtering. I pumped it up some more but it was basically sucking air.

After that happened curiosity got me and so I added the smaller piece of tubing to the coupling and pushed it down till I could feel/hear it hit the bottom of the oilpan. Then I pumped up the mityvac again and it started sucking oil again. Shortly after that oil filled up the whole mityvac so I had to stop and dispense some of the used oil into a gallon milk jug before I could continue.

All said and done I ended up with 6 full quarts of oil plus almost a full gallon jug. If my calculations are correct that's almost 10 quarts of oil?

8 of which I was able to pull out using the dealerships method of pulling from top of dipstick. The remaining oil came out via pusing the tube to bottom.

My best guess is that the dealership left roughly a half quart of oil in using their method of evacuating, and then added back in 8.5qts of new oil.

10 quarts of oil? Oh wow? Were you getting the "check oil level" message in the instrument cluster at any time?

On a related now, wife just came back from a Service B. Again, the oil looks to be over the "max" on the dipstick. They charged her for 9 quarts of M1, even though the car only takes 7.4 qt. I might have to suck some out if she starts getting the dread "check oil level" message again. Ugh...

No check oil or other lights that I saw while driving. Course it's my wife's car so no idea if it ever popped up while she was driving. She's very observant so I think she would have seen it and mentioned it.

Attachment 380916

milk jug is a little less full than i thought but it has got to have at least 3.5qts if the jug holds 4 total.

Are you positive it was not pulling air from the rubber bushing ID or OD sealing zones? That seal is not needed once you added the lower tubing.

Do you have a 4MATIC ? With RWD, plastic tube can be inserted to the bottom of pan. However, based on other's experiences, it seems unusual to leave 2 quarts in the engine with a true dealer evac, using the positive sealed aluminum adaptor with o-rings.

.

It's certainly plausible, but I think it would be a coincidence that it lost the seal (after holding a tight seal the for the 8L prior) right near the point most people would think to be all of the oil in the motor. It seems like I read where someone else found there to be at least 1/2L of oil in the motor after evac'ing via the top of dipstick.

It isn't a 4matic.

No - my C300 is not 4Matic. And the 2 connected MityVac supllied tubes suck out ~8.5 qts.

Kevink2, do you have a post you can reference for the 4Matic please. I am having a hard time visualizing this adapter method for the 4matics.

Yeah - this is why I always use 2 MityVac tubes connected to each other to get down to the bottom of the pan of my C300.
2 oil changes in 2 years tells me I am getting 8.5 qts out each time.

Well I oughta know something was going to go awry. :( Wife gets up to go to work and cranks the car and it's making a chirping sound. Sounds like it's coming from the front of the motor but I didn't let her keep it running for long enough to be sure. Freaked me out a little. Oil level is fine, but I don't want her driving it anywhere without knowing for sure where the sound is coming from.

The only thing I think it could be is that I sprayed some armorall on the plastic engine cover and maybe I got some on the belt? I hope that's it.

MB oil chg adaptor, a must for 4MATIC
 

Why Adaptor is needed for 4MATIC

Adaptor pic, 1st description of AGB Method with rubber bushing at top

oil-change, dealer-method

More Adaptor and Mytivac details

Adaptor still available, how to order

from a C300 parts catalog:
Dipstick:
----- W/4-matic
----- W/o 4-matic

It's also common knowledge now (thanks to others, not me) that the
4-MATICS take 7.5Q's, while the RWD's take 8.5Q's . Dealers still overfill 4MATICS !

.

Thank you!!

over fill NG
 

Level should be at cross hatch marking. High level may allow contact with the crank counter wts, especially at non-level car conditions, and aerating the oil. Not good.

When HOT, suck one to 1.5 out, & check dipstick, not dash.

.

Yeah, I already sucked some out, but it's still over max. I'll have to take out some more.

Yeah, dealers overfill 4matics, I have spoken with all the service techs and everything at my dealership telling them about the issue, but they claim that it still take 8.5 quarts... It's so silly. Also, I asked to buy a bottle of the official 5w-40 oil that only dealers get (without the ESP protection for diesels) and they tried to give me the ESP one, saying its what they use!

This is exactly why I don't go to dealers for service. It's not their car, so they don't care. Plus, I might as well do it myself, learn about the car, and save money. Not to mention that my engine bay isn't as filthy. Also, I seem to be missing the rear air filter clip that the 2011 has on my 2009... But I'm not shocked...

Haha... on that topic, I called my local dealer to ask which oil they use. They said M1 0w-40. But their invoice said Mobile ESP. Go figure. They can't even spell Mobil right.

Somewhere in this thread, near end, is a pic of Oil Capacities, from a 2010 or later manual. Copy it for dealer.

Early manuals 08, maybe 09, stated all took 8.5Q's.

Based on local MB dealer here, and your comment and other's, MB no longer treats diesel and gas engine oils differently, going back to an old, single oil philosopy. In this case ESP for all! M1 says it's good for both engines:

Mobil 1 ESP Formula M 5W-40 --- FOR ALL !!

.

Interesting. BMW sure doesn't think so. They strictly advise against the use of low/mid-SAPs oils (BMW LL04, MB 229.51) in their gasoline engines outside of Europe, citing poor gasoline quality. US gasoline has 10x more sulfur than Euro gasoline. Supposedly this results in quicker oil additive pack depletion, which translates into inability to handle extended drain intervals. I can't recall right now what M1 ESP's starting TBN is but I think it's significantly lower than M1 0w-40's starting TBN of 12. I'd be a little worried about the ESP being able to handle 13K OCI in our C300, but maybe MB knows what they're doing...

The ESP UOA reports I've seen weren't very impressive.

Sounds bad. Will have to see what "Dr Glen" has to say about the SAP effect. Mobil 1 claims from link:

-> Outstanding thermal and oxidation stability
-> Helps to reduce oil aging allowing extended drain interval protection

.

Having problems getting this company to respond & sell me the adapter.
Any ideas?

I just called their number, spoke to someone in sales and gave them my credit card number. Part came a week later. Works excellent.

Did you try calling a few times....I think I had to call twice to get someone on the line.

More than a couple of time but may try to catch them when they first get in.

Will do. Thanks.

Did you follow all their advice on placing an order, dated May 24th?

.

Yes -
can't get provide any more info in my email than they asked:

We return all calls and emails provided they leave a name,call back #, and reason for the call. If they leave a message or email without that info we do not call back assuming it is a sales call.

Anybody having problems with their MityVac?

I can get mine to suck as long as I'm pumping but I thought that once you got the oil flowing it would continue until it filled up the container.

At one time, I did overfill the MityVac and I think that's when my problem started.

Has anyone found an electric pump that works well in this application?

With oil warm to hot, may take 2 of 3 pumpings to maintain a high vaccum to draw in oil rapidly.

.

Look around:

Jabsco 12V or 120 volt bilge pumps. http://www.jabscoshop.com/

Nyca has a combo jabsco pump and oil container, but the pump is too small (4A) or too restricted at the connections to flow quickly.

I have a 12V 6amp bilge pump, currently used for a spare sump-pump back-up in the basement. Prior use was to evacuate oil at the turbo's oil outlet for a 924-Turbo track car.

.

My understanding it that you couldn't "overfill" it if you wanted to because (from the MityVac 7201 User Manual):

As for how many times you pump it, for me, I have had to pump it several times (each time consisting of 10 to 12 pumps each). In fact my first time using it, I had used two hoses with the rubber connector between them but it was not a tight seal, so all along during the entire process, it was sucking both air and oil , took a long time for it to fill up., The second time, I only used the one hose, but I can tell you that my closest guesstimate would be in the range of 8 times (again, each time consisting of 10 to 12 pumps each). At least half of those were more towards the end (probably to get the last quart or so) when it starts to sound as if it is slurping...

Thanks for responding.

I'm pretty sure that it over filled as oil was going into the top hose that goes to the valve.

But what you say about the connector makes a lot of sense. Mine is setup with the rubber reducer/connector and it may have been partially sucking air.

You said that you went to using a single hose. Will that larger hose go down the oil dipstick tube?????

Instead of pouring the oil out of the mityvac, I pumped it out using just the larger hose. It was a lot faster and didn't require all the pumping.

I think I might have a drop or two of oil in that top tube as well... I remember wondering how the heck did those get there. I'll take a closer look the next time I'm in the garage.

Yeah, I didn't realize it until the end of the process... Even tried to use a hose clamp to tighten the rubber adapter around the hose, didn't really help much (the adapter is pretty solid and hard to pinch). So instead of having the MityVac in front, I set it on the side (close to the dipstick tube) and used the one hose!

I am thinking of getting a longer hose and one that is a bit more flexible than the ones that come with the Mityvac.

Actually, I haven't even tried to stick the hose that far into the dip stick tube. I simply used one of the rubber adapters stuck the hose in it, and stuck that at the top end of the dipstick tube... Sort of similar to those who purchased and used the FluidEvacuators metal adapter. Worked fine for me.

Yeah, I poured it out the first time and had a few spills... Second time, I too pumped it out into the empty quart bottles I had... But when I went to dispose of it at Auto Zone the guy made me go in the back of their stock room to empty the bottles myself :rolleyes:. So next time, I think I'm just going to take the MityVac there and empty it out of the spout on top directly into the tank!! Heck, if I'm going to do it myself, I'm gonna do it MY WAY :rolf:

Service indicator light turn off?
 

I am a first time MB owner and am trying to figure out all the bells and whistles. Question: Does a service needed or equivalent message illuminate when an oil change is due, and if so, how do you turn it off? I have owned BMW's, a Lexus, and they all have some secret method of shutting the light off so you feel you must go to the dealer for service.

Thank you so much. I really appreciate your courtesy.:)

Drain Plug
 

Hi everyone,
so has anyone here actually tried draining the traditional way? I have a small ramp (9 inches high) I use for my e46 oil changes, but seems a bit small for the W204 C300 and I can't quite get in there and find the drain plug.
Can anyone help out?

Much much appreciated

Why would you want to? I've been using my TopSider to suck out the oil
for ten years in two MBs.

Yes, it does get it all out.

I guess because I don't know any better. Would you be kind enough and tell me what kind of pump I need to do it that way? or if there is a thread if you can direct me that way. I would very much appreciate it. I just cant do the $280 oil and $130 Air Filter charge any more at the dealer
Thank you so much for your help in advance

Bobby:bow:

You are looking at this thread. Go back a few pages, or better yet, start from the beginning... people have posted what evacuators they use and what dipstick tube adapters. :)

With that said, there is nothing wrong with draining the oil the old traditional way.

To me, this or the actual adaptor is the way to go. Minimal leak points and maximum tubing ID for best flow. This is also Mandatory for those sucking oil from a 4MATIC, or you will leave a quart or two in the sump.

.

Finally got a nice lady to take my call @ 7.00am their time.
After several calls & email left not responded.
Pricey part for pricey cars I guess.

I suggest this is the way to go for those who want this part.

I have found that the tube that is connected to the MityVac itself pulls itself down & loose creating a leak or non-seal thus not creating adequate vacuum. You can actually hear a hiss sometimes.

Please make sure that tube is tight sealed in there in that receptor.
I have to physically use my hand to lift the tube in that area to keep the seal while concurrently the suction is ongoing.

Kevink2 - thanks for the info on this...finally got the adapter for my Mityvac 7201. haven't had a chance to work with it yet but a couple of Questions:
1) Which end of the adapter goes into the dipstick tube?
2) What do you mean use 3"?
3) Does the 3/8" fuel hose fit straight into the Mityvac plug with no issue?

1) The big end (left end in pic)

2) I was assuming, using the largest plastic tube from the Mitivac (.41" OD), that it (the tubing) would be long enough to reach the dip-tube. The 3", 3/8" low pressure fuel hose, was just to act as a coupler between the end of the tube, and the aluminum adaptor. Test this out, and use more than 3" of fuel hose if necessary.

3) As noted above, the largest Mityvac tube goes in there.

remember to get engine fully heated ( drive agressively safely for about 10+ minutes) or do it when you get back from a purposed drive.

Also note it can be difficuly to remove the Mityvac top to empty canister ... you have the option of pumping the old oil out to a transfer jug of choice.

And, you can dry fit the fuel hose to the small end of the adaptor with small o-ring still on adaptor. Just don't let hose get super cold and stiff.

.

Do you remove the tube from the Mityvac after each use? I do and have had no issues, but I've only used it about 8 times.

I'd 1st pull the tube and cut off the end (at same angle as original end) ... mark for cut where it is 1st exiting the fitting. If that does not work, call Mityvac and ask for a replacement for the bad fitting ... I'd expect them to senf it for free. And go for new large tubing.

.

If you know, which model mityvac do you recommend?

Yes I do.

If you can visualize - gravity essentially pulls the tube away just s smidgen at the point of entry from the Mityvac.

So not sure what cutting off the end would do?

Will try it out. Thanks!

Hello to all. I have a quick question....so can you service your MB yourself? I have a family friend that works on Lambos for people and some very hot exotics..and he told me that as long as you go by the book and keep all service records from him, that won't void the warranty...is that correct??

Thanks!

Me, again. I have read, re-read, and so on the Owner's manual for my 2008 C300 4matic Sport, and it mentions the "combination filter". Can someone help this poor lost soul out by telling me what the heck the combination filter is? Thanks for your help.

First, Google Topsider and scroll down a little to the link to look at the thing and the online prices and then read the posts here about the Mityvac and adapters etc. and decide for yourself. It can also be purchased at West Marine, a national boat supply chain since it's a marine item.

Mine is still working as required after 10 years with two cars. Holds eight quarts+.

Yes, in a nutshell it's correct. Car mfg cannot force you to have maintenance done exclusively at their dealer network. It would be illegal if they did.

That connection should not leak. It could be the push-in fitting on the tank is worn out, or the tubing at the end has slightly distorted .... that could be fixed by cutting off the last inch to create a new part of the tubing to push into the fitting.

The first time I changed my oil I got a stock filter from MB. This time around I just got one from AutoZone the Mobil1 brand. Should I use it or return it and get the stock one from MB again? I dont know the differences between the two if one is better then the other? Thanks..

Go back to the general w204 forum, and click on "search this forum". In the search box, add "oil filter" and then hit search. Your answer, grasshopper, you will find there. :bow:

.

Looking at the images of this M1 filter, it doesn't appear to be nearly as well made as the OEM filter. And the one review of it on Amazon seems to confirm it. I would not use this M1 filter, personally.

For a car still under warranty, using the extended change intervals, you must use a MB approved fleece filter, such as Mahn, or OEM.

MB -- fleece-oil-filter

.

Yeah I ended up taking it back and went to MB and got a factory one.

Pay less
 

Check the prices for the same MANN filter at autohausaz.com

$12.60 each right now.

I still got it for less then that. I use to work the MB dealer by me, and I know the parts manager very well so I still get the discount. I also picked up the cabin filter from them. Normal price was around $75, I got it for $30.

The last cabin filter I bought from autohausaz was $18.80. My dealer gets $62 for the same filter.

Just did my 40k mile oil change. Got the mann-fleece filter for $10.87 including shipping from a 3rd party Amazon seller including shipping. Same OE product, same filter and o-rings I always got for more money. The supplier even through in a 10% off coupon on future purchases. Can't complain.

Sneaky enough, my cabin air-filter and engine air filters were free. Just don't ask me how!

Guess Ill need to check that out for the cabin next time.

Where is the best place for oil? I get it from the dealer for $6.25 a QT vs $8.89 at like Autozone

It depends on whether you want to chase after sales. For example, O'Reilly here sometimes has M1 0w-40 for sale at $5/qt. $6.25 is not a bad everyday price though.

I get mine at Walmart, Mobil 1 0w-40 is like $6.47 everyday. Not too bad, my dealer DEFINITELY doesn't sell for the $6.25 you get, more like $8.50-$9. I also pick up from Advance Auto Parts occasionally, they seem to run a bunch of promotions and the last time I bought from them I got like 20 quarts at just about $5/quart...

Hey everyone just a question am I supposed to not have a oil service dipstick in my car 05 c240 4matic?? some body said it is electronically controlled and my year doesnt come with one, my dealer changed the oil b4 I picked the car up in Oct.2011, I don't need an oil change now but I want to make sure the car will let me know when I have to just to be on the safe side:)) thnx

Yeah, sadly this is the trend on many new engines these days. No more oil dipstick. Instead you have to rely on a sensor to alert you of incorrect oil level. And we all know how reliable these sensors are.... :(

However, as far as I know, even though you don't have a dipstick, you still have a dipstick tube, which means you can purchase a dipstick from your dealer if you wish.

By the way, you're posting in the wrong forum. Your car is a W203. :)

I believe it is just another ploy to drum up service business and limit warrantee liability by the auto manufacturers. Service recepts are down because the cars are much more reliable now, and as long as you follow the maintenance schedule- and yes, you can do it yourself and not void the warrantee- the warrantee is in neffect. Just keep receipts for any oil, filters, etc. you buy for protection against an unscrupulous dealer. I sued Nissan under the lemon law of NJ and won. Just keep detailed records.

FYI this is the incorrect size wrench, please dont mislead others if your not 100% sure. The correct size is 74mm, not 74.5mm

A 74.5 mm will round off the flutes on the oil filter housing

This is the correct filter wrench

http://www.handsontools.com/Assenmac...ch_p_2720.html

Hmm... I have the 74.5mm Assenmacher (2175) and it's a perfect fit on our C300.

It is still too big...when you put a 74.5 mm socket on it, there is still too much clearence between the housing and the socket. I just snapped this picture to show the exact width of the housing. 2.92 inches when converted to mm is 74.1mm (the perfect fit)

Attachment 380513

let me see if I can settle this...

I bought a 74.5mm socket/wrench whatever you want to call it (from Autozone) and it fit fine when I test fitted it at the store but once I got home and applied force, it was too loose -had to wrap tape around the filter cover to avoid it slipping and stripping it- Ended up returning it of course!

Ordered the 74.5mm Assenmacher (2175) which Pete7874 recommended and it is in fact, a perfect fit.

I will use calipers to measure the inside of the tool to see if it is @ 74.5 or shorter when i get home tonight and I'll report back!

You may be right. With the 2175 on the housing, there is still just a tiny bit of play there. It works just fine and doesn't strip the housing, but I can imagine 74 mm socket would have been an even better fit.

I have a 2175 (74.5mm)lying around and it doesnt fit like the 74mm

I just use my hands. Unless whoever did the first service before you over tightened it passed the green marking on my vehicle, it is easily loosened by hand, and just as easy to tighten back to the green dots to have them match up.

I ended up stripping several plastic oil filter wrenches on mine because someone had tightened it so hard. That's when Assenmacher and a ratchet came to the rescue.

Now, last year I had the dealer do an oil change as part of Service B, so I'd be curious to see how tight it's on there now... I'll find out soon enough I guess.

If dial is still showing correct width, I read 2.936", = 74.574mm

.

It is a 74mm housing. Trust me, the 74.5mm does not fit properly. A mercedes isnt even listed as an applicable vehicle for that wrench. Here is a a guy who used a 74mm wrench (diy)

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...968&viewfull=1

Quote from the description:

Thats not what the tag said on it when it arrived...It was all VW and Audi. (It list what engines also) and a C300 is not listed, which is why this wrench doesnt fit properly.

Silly question because I have read every post on the subject, but I want to be sure the Mityvac 7300 or 7400- whichever holds more, works well in draining the old oil. I am old fashioned in thati prefer to remove the drain plug, but if the mity vac is satisfactory, why not use it? Someone posted somewhere that MB recommends using the pump rather that the drain, and since am a belt and suspenders kind of guy, I want to "measure twice and cut once. Any opinion and suggestions are welcome!

The only reason why MB recommends they pump is to reduce the time the vehicle is in for service. Draining the oil from the pan is still a better method IMO

Also which is why they engineered the oil filter to be placed at the top of the enginer, so the technician can do a complete oil change with out ever having to jack/lift the car up and remove under tray fairings.

If you already have the extractor, why not do an experiment to find out. Extract first, then remove the drain plug and see how much more comes out. If not much, I'd say it's good enough.

....and tell the rest of us.

I am going to buy the larger extractor that holds 8.8 liters since my torn rotator cuff and other assorted physical limitations ( no "poor guy"s please) the mity vac is very attractive. Thank you all for your kind answers and rest assured they are appreciated. Maybe some day, as I have said before, I can contribute instead of just asking, but I am learning thanks to all of you. Again, thank you very much. It reassures me, living here in NJ, that there really are considerate people out there- they-re in NJ too, just harder to find because I live at the Shore and the vacationers are a rude sort- but not all of them,- just not a lot of them. Traffic becomes impassable, prices go up, and every business is dedicated to getting every penny they can from tourists- kind of like a super Mity vac for money if you have ever visited here between Memorial Day and Labor Day, you know what I mean. $10 and up for parking, $3- at least- for a 1/10th slice of pizza, $3 for a paper cup of cola flavored ice with some liquid really in it, and when the younger (teens) descent, nightly arrests at bars, on the streets, and at houses rented. Except for that, it still is a pretty nice place to live- I live in a small town on Toms River that is exclusively year round owners- and they are the nicest neighbors I can imagine. End of rant- thanks for bearing with me, but I am trying too get to know you members, and tell a little about myself so you don't think I am some lazy guy looking for free info. I have owned 8 Corvettes since 1972, 3 BMWs, an Acura, Lexus, and about 20 others- I am a retired teacher with no kids, so it really might not be a character flaw. This is my dream Mercedes, and I fully assume I know nothing about it until I learn. tTrying TO AVOID IF IT AIN'T BROKE, FIX IT TILL IT IS".

I bought the expensive Hazet filter cap because the others differed in the spec for the size.

Samstag Sales has these, just put in your engine number IIRC. Fits perfectly, much better than the thin sheetmetal caps that I have for my other cars.

I think the size is 74.1mm.

Can I Used 10W -30 synthetic oil
 

Hi,

I own a 2008 C300 sport ,,,i'm living in Jamaica and have a lubricant distributing company...My car is now due for service ..CAN I USED Petro-Canada brand 10w-30 synthetic oil?

Yes, but Mobile 1 is recommended

Does it meet MB 229.5 spec?

no, it is not listed

229.5 Spec Oil's

PRODUCTNAME 0W-30 0W-40 5W-30 5W-40 PRINCIPAL
76 PURE SYNTHETIC MOTOR OIL, SAE 5W-40 x ConocoPhillips, PONCA CITY, OK/USA
8100 X-cess MOTUL SAE 5W40 x Motul , AUBERVILLIERS CEDEX/FRANCE
ADDINOL SUPER POWER MV 0537 x Addinol Lube Oil GmbH, Leuna/Deutschland
AeroShell Oil Diesel Ultra x Shell International Petroleum Company, LONDON/UNITED KINGDOM
Agip SYNTHETIC PC SAE 5W-40 x ENI S.p.A. - Refining & Marketing Division, ROM/ITALY
ALPINE Longlife SAE 5W-30 x Mitan Mineralöl GmbH, Ankum/Deutschland
Alpine RS 0W40 x Mitan Mineralöl GmbH, Ankum/Deutschland
ARAL HIGH TRONIC M SAE 5W-40 x Aral Aktiengesellschaft, Hamburg/Deutschland
ARAL HighTronic M SAE 5W-30 x Aral Aktiengesellschaft, Hamburg/Deutschland
ARAL SUPER TRONIC G x Aral Aktiengesellschaft, Hamburg/Deutschland
ARAL SuperSynth x Aral Aktiengesellschaft, Hamburg/Deutschland
ASTRIS MAGIS SAE 5W-40 x Astris S.A., 6745 GIORNICO/Schweiz
AVIASYNTH 5W-40 x Avia Mineralöl-AG, München/Deutschland
Biloxxi 5W-30 x MCC Trading Deutschland GmbH, Düsseldorf/Deutschland
bp superV Plus 5W-40 x BP p.l.c., LONDON/UNITED KINGDOM
bp Visco 5000 5W-30 x BP p.l.c., LONDON/UNITED KINGDOM
Castrol Edge 0W-40 A3/B4 x Castrol Limited, SWINDON/UNITED KINGDOM
Castrol EDGE 5W-30 A3/B4 x Castrol Limited, SWINDON/UNITED KINGDOM
Castrol EDGE Professional A3 0W-30 x Castrol Limited, SWINDON/UNITED KINGDOM
Castrol EDGE Professional A3 0W-40 x Castrol Limited, SWINDON/UNITED KINGDOM
Castrol Edge Professional A3 5W-30 x Castrol Limited, SWINDON/UNITED KINGDOM
Castrol EDGE PROFESSIONAL A3 5W-40 x Castrol Limited, SWINDON/UNITED KINGDOM
Castrol EDGE Professional Diesel 5W-30 x Castrol Limited, SWINDON/UNITED KINGDOM
Castrol EDGE TITANIUM 5W-40 x Castrol Limited, SWINDON/UNITED KINGDOM
Castrol Edge with SPT SAE 0W-30 x Castrol Limited, SWINDON/UNITED KINGDOM
Castrol Magnatec Professional A3 5W-40 x Castrol Limited, SWINDON/UNITED KINGDOM
Castrol SLX Professional Longtec 0W-30 x Castrol Limited, SWINDON/UNITED KINGDOM
Castrol SLX Professional Longtec 0W-40 x Castrol Limited, SWINDON/UNITED KINGDOM
CEPSA star 5W40 SYNTHETIC x Cepsa Lubricantes, S.A., MADRID/SPAIN
Cepsa Star Mega Synthetic 0W-30 x Cepsa Lubricantes, S.A., MADRID/SPAIN
Chevron Supreme Synthetic Motor Oil x Chevron Global Lubricants, GENT/ZWIJNAARDE/BELGIUM
Consol Ultra x Vial Oil Ltd., FRYAZINO, Moscow region/RUSSIA
Divinol syntholight MBX SAE 5W-30 x Zeller+Gmelin GmbH & Co. KG, Eislingen/Deutschland
elf EXCELLIUM 0W-30 x Total Lubrifiants, PARIS la Defense Cedex/FRANCE
Elf Excellium Full Tech 0W-30 x Total Lubrifiants, PARIS la Defense Cedex/FRANCE
Elf Excellium Full-Tech 5W-30 x Total Lubrifiants, PARIS la Defense Cedex/FRANCE
Elf Excellium Full-Tech 5W-40 x Total Lubrifiants, PARIS la Defense Cedex/FRANCE
Engen Xtreme Syn 5W-40 x Engen Petroleum Ltd., JOHANNESBURG 2000/REPUBLIC of SOUTHAFRICA
Everyday Full Synthetic 5W-40 x Penrite Oil Company Pty Ltd, WANTIRNA SOUTH/AUSTRALIA
EVOLUTION OEM Series I 5W-30 x TOP 1 Oil Products, San Mateo, CA/USA
EVOLUTION OEM Series I 5W-40 x TOP 1 Oil Products, San Mateo, CA/USA
Fastroil Premium Plus SAE 5W-40 x HILL Corporation, Shymkent/KAZAKHSTAN
Fina FIRST 600 0W-30 x Total Lubrifiants, PARIS la Defense Cedex/FRANCE
Fuchs TITAN Supersyn LONGLIFE 5W-40 x Fuchs Petrolub AG, Mannheim/Deutschland
Fuchs TITAN Supersyn Longlife SAE 5W-30 x Fuchs Petrolub AG, Mannheim/Deutschland
G-Energy F Synth 5W-30 x Gazpromneft-Lubricants LTD, MOSCOW/RUSSIA
G-Energy F Synth 5W-40 x Gazpromneft-Lubricants LTD, MOSCOW/RUSSIA
G-Energy Service Line MS 5W-30 x Gazpromneft-Lubricants LTD, MOSCOW/RUSSIA
GALP Active 3000 M 5W40 x Petrogal S.A., LISSABON/PORTUGAL
GALP FÓRMULA XLD SAE 5W-40 x Petrogal S.A., LISSABON/PORTUGAL
Gulf Formula GMX x Gulf Oil International, London/ENGLAND
Gulf Formula GX x x Gulf Oil International, London/ENGLAND
Havoline Ultra BM x Chevron Global Lubricants, GENT/ZWIJNAARDE/BELGIUM
Kendall GT-1 FULL SYNTHETIC MOTOR OIL x ConocoPhillips, PONCA CITY, OK/USA
LIQUI MOLY 5W-40 LEICHTLAUF HIGH TECH x Liqui Moly GmbH, Ulm/Deutschland
LOTOS SYNTHETIC PLUS SAE 5W40 x Grupa Lotos SA., GDANSK/POLAND
LOTOS SYNTHETIC TURBODIESEL PLUS 5W40 x Grupa Lotos SA., GDANSK/POLAND
LubriGold Full Synthetic 5W-40 x Warren Oil Company, Inc., WEST MEMPHIS, AR 72303-2048/USA
LUKOIL LUXE MC x OOO LLK-International, MOSCOW/RUSSIA
LUKOIL LUXE Synthetic x OOO LLK-International, MOSCOW/RUSSIA
master oil v-tec Premium 0W-40 x Interparts Autoteile GmbH, Stuttgart/Deutschland
MB 229.5 Motorenöl A 000 989 83 01 x Daimler AG, Stuttgart/Deutschland
megol Motorenoel High Condition x Meguin GmbH & Co. KG Mineraloelwerke, Saarlouis/Deutschland
Mercedes-Benz PKW-Synthetic Motorenöl Blatt 229.5 x Daimler AG, Stuttgart/Deutschland
Midland Synqron x Oel-Brack AG, HUNZENSCHWIL/Schweiz
Mitan Alpine RS 0W-40 x Mitan Mineralöl GmbH, Ankum/Deutschland
Mobil 1 0W-40 x Exxon Mobil Corporation, FAIRFAX, Virginia/USA
Mobil 1 Arctic 0W-40 x Exxon Mobil Corporation, FAIRFAX, Virginia/USA
Mobil 1 Formula M 5W-40 x Exxon Mobil Corporation, FAIRFAX, Virginia/USA
Mobil 1 New Life 0W-40 x Exxon Mobil Corporation, FAIRFAX, Virginia/USA
Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel 0W-40 x Exxon Mobil Corporation, FAIRFAX, Virginia/USA
Mobil SHC Formula MB 5W-30 x Exxon Mobil Corporation, FAIRFAX, Virginia/USA
Mobil Super 3000 Formula M 5W-30 x Exxon Mobil Corporation, FAIRFAX, Virginia/USA
Motul 8100 X-max 5W-30 x Motul , AUBERVILLIERS CEDEX/FRANCE
Motul 8100 X-max 5W-40 x Motul , AUBERVILLIERS CEDEX/FRANCE
Motul Synergie Tech+ 5W40 x Motul , AUBERVILLIERS CEDEX/FRANCE
OMV BIXXOL special BM SAE 5W-40 x OMV Refining & Marketing GmbH, VIENNA/Österreich
Pennzoil Platinum European Formula x Pennzoil-Quaker State, HOUSTON, TEXAS 77002/USA
Pennzoil Platinum European Formula Ultra x Pennzoil-Quaker State, HOUSTON, TEXAS 77002/USA
Pennzoil Ultra Euro 5W-40 Full Synthetic x Pennzoil-Quaker State, HOUSTON, TEXAS 77002/USA
PENRITE HPR 5 5W-40 x Penrite Oil Company Pty Ltd, WANTIRNA SOUTH/AUSTRALIA
Pento High Performance 5W-30 x Deutsche Pentosin-Werke GmbH, Wedel/Deutschland
Premium Synthetik Motorenöl x Daimler AG, Stuttgart/Deutschland
Q European Engine Ultra x Pennzoil-Quaker State, HOUSTON, TEXAS 77002/USA
Q Horsepower Full Synthetic x Pennzoil-Quaker State, HOUSTON, TEXAS 77002/USA
Quaker State Synquest x Shell International Petroleum Company, LONDON/UNITED KINGDOM
real,- Quality GSR 5W-30 x real,- Handels GmbH, Düsseldorf/Deutschland
REPSOL ELITE Common Rail 5W30 x Repsol YPF Lubricantes y Especialidades, S.A., MOSTOLES - MADRID/SPAIN
ROWE SYNT RS SAE 5W-30 HC-D x ROWE Mineralölwerk GmbH, Bubenheim/Deutschland
ROWE SYNT RS SAE 5W-40 HC-D x ROWE Mineralölwerk GmbH, Bubenheim/Deutschland
Shell Helix Diesel Ultra x x x Shell International Petroleum Company, LONDON/UNITED KINGDOM
Shell Helix Diesel Ultra E x Shell International Petroleum Company, LONDON/UNITED KINGDOM
Shell Helix HX8 x Shell International Petroleum Company, LONDON/UNITED KINGDOM
Shell Helix HX8 C x Shell International Petroleum Company, LONDON/UNITED KINGDOM
Shell Helix Ultra x x x Shell International Petroleum Company, LONDON/UNITED KINGDOM
Shell Helix Ultra AB x Shell International Petroleum Company, LONDON/UNITED KINGDOM
Shell Helix Ultra C x Shell International Petroleum Company, LONDON/UNITED KINGDOM
Shell Helix Ultra E x Shell International Petroleum Company, LONDON/UNITED KINGDOM
Shell Helix Ultra Extra Polar x Shell International Petroleum Company, LONDON/UNITED KINGDOM
smart Motoröl 5W-30 x Daimler AG, Stuttgart/Deutschland
SRS ViVA 1 Longlife x SRS Schmierstoff Vertrieb GmbH, Salzbergen/Deutschland
Statoil LazerWay 5W-40 x Svenska Statoil AB, STOCKHOLM/SWEDEN
Statoil LazerWay TDI 5W-40 x Svenska Statoil AB, STOCKHOLM/SWEDEN
SynPower HST x The Valvoline Company, LEXINGTON, KY/USA
SYNTIUM 3000 x PETRONAS LUBRICANTS INTERNATIONAL, KUALA LAMPUR/MALAYSIA
TAMOIL SINT FUTURE RACING x Tamoil Italia S.p.A., MILANO/ITALY
TECAR Special M Motorenöl 5W-30 x Techno - Einkauf GmbH, Norderstedt/Deutschland
Texaco Havoline Synthetic Motor Oil x Chevron Global Lubricants, GENT/ZWIJNAARDE/BELGIUM
TNK Magnum Ultratec x TNK Lubricants, LLC, MOSCOW/RUSSIA
Total Activa Energy 9000 0W-30 x Total Lubrifiants, PARIS la Defense Cedex/FRANCE
Total Quartz 9000 Energy 5W-30 x Total Lubrifiants, PARIS la Defense Cedex/FRANCE
Total Quartz 9000 Energy 5W-40 x Total Lubrifiants, PARIS la Defense Cedex/FRANCE
Total Quartz Energy 9000 0W-30 x Total Lubrifiants, PARIS la Defense Cedex/FRANCE
Valvoline SynPower 5W-40 x The Valvoline Company, LEXINGTON, KY/USA
Valvoline SynPower HST x The Valvoline Company, LEXINGTON, KY/USA
Westfalen Gigatron 0W-40 x Westfalen AG, Münster/Deutschland
YACCO VX 1600 0W30 x Yacco SAS, ST PIERRE LES ELBEUF/FRANCE
ZIC XQ 5W-30 x SK Lubricants, DAEJEON/Rep. of KOREA