How many of you are into the stance scene?
02-01-2011, 07:38 PM
#78
MBWorld Fanatic!
Agreed . I think these cars look good like this although its not for everyone . Most people work very hard to afford a Mercedes or other highly engineered cars and by the time they get said car their taste will have changed . Example : s class buyer up to their 30's might swap out wheels or maybe a tune ... someone older say in their 40s probably wouldnt be interested in changing anything . Its really all about age demographic .
02-02-2011, 05:56 AM
#80
9.5 et 25 10.5 et 30...pretty damn close being perfect IMO..but I think I would go in 30 up front and mid 30's in the back. On this car I dont want too much poke. I am still waiting for him to post three quarter views of the car and the poke.
02-02-2011, 06:48 AM
#81
MBWorld Fanatic!
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,330
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
1967 Morris Cooper "S", 1983 911SC, 1997 Toyota Tacoma, 1999 HD FXSTB, 1998 C43
Agreed . I think these cars look good like this although its not for everyone . Most people work very hard to afford a Mercedes or other highly engineered cars and by the time they get said car their taste will have changed . Example : s class buyer up to their 30's might swap out wheels or maybe a tune ... someone older say in their 40s probably wouldnt be interested in changing anything . Its really all about age demographic .
You nailed it with that comment - I prefer my cars unmolested. I generally would not buy a car that has been modified like any of these cars.
03-16-2011, 04:19 PM
#82
Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 86
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
W204
hell yea!!! this was before i cut the springs the second time and cut the bumpstops... (yea yea haters gon hate BRING IT 
)
sad to say the first pic i posted with the white wheels is the only pic of it slammed (****ty cell phone pic too) like 2 weeks after i ****n wrecked it...
) sad to say the first pic i posted with the white wheels is the only pic of it slammed (****ty cell phone pic too) like 2 weeks after i ****n wrecked it...
i see your car on western almost everday.
03-17-2011, 02:33 AM
#83
Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Phoenix, AZ USA
Posts: 95
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
2009 CL63, 2013 GL550
Wow, I almost **** my pants when I saw that Hellaflush youtube video 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S-BGIcRBPHM
I personally hate this look... alot. It makes me want to go up to the owners and kick them in the ***** and then spit into their mouth when they're on the floor
While I'm cool with people doing their own thing, I can't count how many times I'm looking through classifieds or in person at cars and find one that's perfect- except I'd have to un-hellaflush the car. Spending $5,000 on top of the purchase price to remove garbage chinese parts to get the car back to stock shape? No thanks
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S-BGIcRBPHM
I personally hate this look... alot. It makes me want to go up to the owners and kick them in the ***** and then spit into their mouth when they're on the floor
While I'm cool with people doing their own thing, I can't count how many times I'm looking through classifieds or in person at cars and find one that's perfect- except I'd have to un-hellaflush the car. Spending $5,000 on top of the purchase price to remove garbage chinese parts to get the car back to stock shape? No thanks
03-17-2011, 09:53 AM
#84
Member
Wow, I almost **** my pants when I saw that Hellaflush youtube video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S-BGIcRBPHM
I personally hate this look... alot. It makes me want to go up to the owners and kick them in the ***** and then spit into their mouth when they're on the floor
While I'm cool with people doing their own thing, I can't count how many times I'm looking through classifieds or in person at cars and find one that's perfect- except I'd have to un-hellaflush the car. Spending $5,000 on top of the purchase price to remove garbage chinese parts to get the car back to stock shape? No thanks
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S-BGIcRBPHM
I personally hate this look... alot. It makes me want to go up to the owners and kick them in the ***** and then spit into their mouth when they're on the floor
While I'm cool with people doing their own thing, I can't count how many times I'm looking through classifieds or in person at cars and find one that's perfect- except I'd have to un-hellaflush the car. Spending $5,000 on top of the purchase price to remove garbage chinese parts to get the car back to stock shape? No thanks
Wow, it has really had an impact on you... Pet ran over by "Hella-Flush" ride?
03-17-2011, 09:58 AM
#85
Around here the people that follow the hella flush scene have expensive wheels and top of the line air systems/coilovers. I don't know what they are talking about with the cut springs and sport max wheels....?
03-17-2011, 10:00 AM
#86
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
+1...
03-17-2011, 11:09 AM
#87
Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Phoenix, AZ USA
Posts: 95
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
2009 CL63, 2013 GL550
For example, check this out (found it within a minute)
http://www.cdmdata.com/cdmdigitallot...tlink=noparams
Love the CLS. This is RennTeched, cool. WTF is up with the wheels... deal breaker.
03-17-2011, 11:18 AM
#88
That's a joke right? Craigslist/ebay them. What does it take 20min to take wheels off and replace them with wheels that you like? If they are of no value to you sell them for what you pick up new wheels for and make someones day. Simple if you ask me.
03-17-2011, 12:55 PM
#90
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
'09 C300 Sport (Manual)
03-17-2011, 02:17 PM
#91
Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 86
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
W204
just curious...ive never had anything but pro-kits but im digging the whole flush look now...this is my daily driver and dont go fast in this car...
03-17-2011, 05:47 PM
#92
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
'09 C300 Sport (Manual)
From basics physics, F=kx for springs. F in this case is the force (or load) a spring can handle, k is the spring constant, and x is the distance it is displaced (compressed in this case). All of these things affect how the spring will return back to normal (uncompressed).
The most important part here is k, the spring was designed to work within a certain range for a certain load. There are other aspects of progressive springs for ride quality (wound tighter in the upper half vs the lower and at different ratios) but we won't get into that. If you have a car spring that is let's say 10 inches lenth and has a total spring constant (k) of 1.0 (fake number), if you cut 1 inch off of that you aren't increasing the (k) constant by 10% to compensate and support the same load, you're doing just the opposite (and not you could not necessarily be reducing it by 10% either it may be a significant change less). Ever notice how lowering springs are stiffer than stock ones? There's a reason for that, you're asking the lowered springs to support the same weight of the car but in a much tighter suspension travel range (lowered). I.e. if your stock springs are designed to give 3" of suspension travel over normal bumps, etc. that stock spring that has been cut is still designed to give near 3" of travel but over that original 10" of spring (using all of it).
Hope this makes sense. All of the examples I've seen where people have cut springs either wind up with something that rides like poop, blow inserts and rides on the bumps stops, or worse.
I have never seen a professional racer, shop, or otherwise recommend actually cutting springs. In the 1970s book "How to make your car handle" (don't laugh, a lot the principles are still the same, he outlines a method of compressing the spring and evenly heating in an oven, this 'resets' the ride height of the spring and keeping the same load support). I'm not sure if they even still do this anymore, but with the low cost of a good set of springs, having to take them off the car anyway, why even chance it?
The most important part here is k, the spring was designed to work within a certain range for a certain load. There are other aspects of progressive springs for ride quality (wound tighter in the upper half vs the lower and at different ratios) but we won't get into that. If you have a car spring that is let's say 10 inches lenth and has a total spring constant (k) of 1.0 (fake number), if you cut 1 inch off of that you aren't increasing the (k) constant by 10% to compensate and support the same load, you're doing just the opposite (and not you could not necessarily be reducing it by 10% either it may be a significant change less). Ever notice how lowering springs are stiffer than stock ones? There's a reason for that, you're asking the lowered springs to support the same weight of the car but in a much tighter suspension travel range (lowered). I.e. if your stock springs are designed to give 3" of suspension travel over normal bumps, etc. that stock spring that has been cut is still designed to give near 3" of travel but over that original 10" of spring (using all of it).
Hope this makes sense. All of the examples I've seen where people have cut springs either wind up with something that rides like poop, blow inserts and rides on the bumps stops, or worse.
I have never seen a professional racer, shop, or otherwise recommend actually cutting springs. In the 1970s book "How to make your car handle" (don't laugh, a lot the principles are still the same, he outlines a method of compressing the spring and evenly heating in an oven, this 'resets' the ride height of the spring and keeping the same load support). I'm not sure if they even still do this anymore, but with the low cost of a good set of springs, having to take them off the car anyway, why even chance it?
03-17-2011, 09:27 PM
#93
MBWorld Fanatic!
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: UCF area Orlando/West Palm Beach FL.
Posts: 1,177
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
c350coupe, Gencoupe R-spec
i was always into the stance scene/slamming cars, my old 350z was slammed on tien coilovers, i've been wanting to put coilovers on my c350, but im unsure with which ones to go with? H&R would be my first pick, anyone have any input on these?
03-18-2011, 02:07 AM
#94
Member
From basics physics, F=kx for springs. F in this case is the force (or load) a spring can handle, k is the spring constant, and x is the distance it is displaced (compressed in this case). All of these things affect how the spring will return back to normal (uncompressed).
The most important part here is k, the spring was designed to work within a certain range for a certain load. There are other aspects of progressive springs for ride quality (wound tighter in the upper half vs the lower and at different ratios) but we won't get into that. If you have a car spring that is let's say 10 inches lenth and has a total spring constant (k) of 1.0 (fake number), if you cut 1 inch off of that you aren't increasing the (k) constant by 10% to compensate and support the same load, you're doing just the opposite (and not you could not necessarily be reducing it by 10% either it may be a significant change less). Ever notice how lowering springs are stiffer than stock ones? There's a reason for that, you're asking the lowered springs to support the same weight of the car but in a much tighter suspension travel range (lowered). I.e. if your stock springs are designed to give 3" of suspension travel over normal bumps, etc. that stock spring that has been cut is still designed to give near 3" of travel but over that original 10" of spring (using all of it).
Hope this makes sense. All of the examples I've seen where people have cut springs either wind up with something that rides like poop, blow inserts and rides on the bumps stops, or worse.
I have never seen a professional racer, shop, or otherwise recommend actually cutting springs. In the 1970s book "How to make your car handle" (don't laugh, a lot the principles are still the same, he outlines a method of compressing the spring and evenly heating in an oven, this 'resets' the ride height of the spring and keeping the same load support). I'm not sure if they even still do this anymore, but with the low cost of a good set of springs, having to take them off the car anyway, why even chance it?
The most important part here is k, the spring was designed to work within a certain range for a certain load. There are other aspects of progressive springs for ride quality (wound tighter in the upper half vs the lower and at different ratios) but we won't get into that. If you have a car spring that is let's say 10 inches lenth and has a total spring constant (k) of 1.0 (fake number), if you cut 1 inch off of that you aren't increasing the (k) constant by 10% to compensate and support the same load, you're doing just the opposite (and not you could not necessarily be reducing it by 10% either it may be a significant change less). Ever notice how lowering springs are stiffer than stock ones? There's a reason for that, you're asking the lowered springs to support the same weight of the car but in a much tighter suspension travel range (lowered). I.e. if your stock springs are designed to give 3" of suspension travel over normal bumps, etc. that stock spring that has been cut is still designed to give near 3" of travel but over that original 10" of spring (using all of it).
Hope this makes sense. All of the examples I've seen where people have cut springs either wind up with something that rides like poop, blow inserts and rides on the bumps stops, or worse.
I have never seen a professional racer, shop, or otherwise recommend actually cutting springs. In the 1970s book "How to make your car handle" (don't laugh, a lot the principles are still the same, he outlines a method of compressing the spring and evenly heating in an oven, this 'resets' the ride height of the spring and keeping the same load support). I'm not sure if they even still do this anymore, but with the low cost of a good set of springs, having to take them off the car anyway, why even chance it?
03-18-2011, 04:52 AM
#96
Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 200
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
C300
welcome!
I'm into the stance seen and I have an extra set of black 17x8 BBS rk's with an offset of 35. im going to put them on my car the end of this month. i have to put some beefy tires on there so it doesnt look to weird. in my opinion, i like the beefy tire look. let me know if im crazy or not
I'm into the stance seen and I have an extra set of black 17x8 BBS rk's with an offset of 35. im going to put them on my car the end of this month. i have to put some beefy tires on there so it doesnt look to weird. in my opinion, i like the beefy tire look. let me know if im crazy or not
Last edited by dewydang; 03-18-2011 at 05:46 AM.
03-18-2011, 07:19 AM
#97
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
03-18-2011, 08:24 AM
#98
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
C300
03-18-2011, 09:36 AM
#99
I have it! Let's move on from "stance" to "stability"...thicker antisway bars for everyone!
I wasn't sure if the op was a troll or what, but at least the thread is entertaining enough.
