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Engine vibration when stopping to a halt
When I am slowing down to a red light and once I come to a full stop I get this vibration from the engine like a strain on the engine. It only happens once I have come to a full stop, and almost feels like a rough idle, but when I throw the car in neutral it goes away. Its like a strain on the engine when the car is in drive but not moving, is this normal anyone else experience this?
The same thing will happen if I'm in park and I put the car in drive but keep my foot on the brake, I would feel the vibration. Also, if I am in park on pavement, and I turn the steering wheel I get a engine vibration, shake or what feels like strain on the engine. Its almost like I have a weak engine :wall: What could be the solution? a new fuel filter air filter:confused: Update April 2018: The solution for my 2008 C300 4matic was engine mounts and transmission mount. Cost about $900 at my independent mechanic - for me well worth the night and day difference. Good luck. |
check engine oil level
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Given your "drive" symptoms, I would check the tranny, maybe the mounts or something is causing the vibrations.
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why are you putting your car into neutral at every stop light? Its an auto your supposed to simply put your foot on the brake. Yes your RPM will drop a bit when you do that as the car either grabs or releases engagement to the engine.
Also when you refer to steering, the PS pump is being used and also will cause momentary draw on the car, much like the a/c ect...its pretty standard, in fact every car I've known may surge or lower in rpm at low speed steering or when coming to a light. If you really feel there is an issue, your best to get it into a shop so some one can look at it. if anything maybe the transfluids low |
What mileage? Does the engine ever stumble when you pull away. It could be anything from engine & rear transmission mountings to dirty MAF or Throttle Body to O2 sensors starting to cycle too slowly. Is the car storing any codes?
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The only reason I put the car in neutral is when I'm testing to see if the vibration will stop. I will check the oil level just for the hell of it, but I am pretty on top of it.
The car now has 51,000 on it, I took it in when it was under 50,000 and after my complaint the dealer kind of put words in my mouth saying the "Idle is dipping" and I said ya that makes sense. They found nothing after checking codes and test driving. The one thing I noticed is that it only happens when the car is warm, because the warm car at idle will go down to 500-600 rpms where a cold car at a stop will stay up to 700-900 and it seems there the engine is running fast enough to stop the vibration. If I am at the stop light with the warm engine vibrating and I keep my foot on the brake and tap the gas to get the rpms up a bit, the vibration goes away. In the end it almost feels like the car has a rough idle at 500-600, that only happens in drive. As far as the power steering, same thing if the car is cold or the rpms are a little higher at idle, than its fine, but when the car is warm it happens. thats possibly why the dealer never found anything as they may of test driven the car when it was cold. So it could be normal, in fact I am a part time valet parker while in school, and one night I parked three C300s, two where fine with the steering, but one 09 was like mine with the shaky shudder that I felt through the wheel. I would agree that its normal but it just seems excessive. I have to get the transmission fluid changed and will take it to a private shop, the guy really knows his stuff and we trust him, my dad has known him for years, he changed my dads S550 trans fluid for $300, while I am there I will try to get this stuff looked at. It really seems the rough idle and steering shudder are related. Thanks for your responses, happy thanksgiving! edit: and Glyn, no it never stumbles. |
I have the same prob my car has only done 30,000 miles
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Originally Posted by mir_m
(Post 4931585)
I have the same prob my car has only done 30,000 miles
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The stopping prom I can some times feel the vibrations through the brake pedal had it looked it to many times but Merc could not locate the fault
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Sounds as if the idle RPM is too low.
What could cause this? Auxilliary load ? eg faulyA/C |
The car seems stable under enriched mixture open loop conditions. Once in closed loop it does not like any loading at idle. Too early for O2 sensors & no stumble. The ECU should maintain constant idle RPM under load from A/C or PS. I think dirty MAF or throttle body are likely or a TB actuator not behaving. Either the throttle is not opening sufficiently when load is applied or she is a little lean at idle. This is predicated on none of the accessories overloading anything due to an imminent failure. I would expect some sign of this at higher RPM.
Clean MAF & TB. If the car does a lot of short trips it might be plugs not getting into the self cleaning range often enough. I would expect a 300 & 301 to 306 codes if she had the odd misfire. They might be stored codes & insufficient to trigger a CEL. A plug change might help. |
Originally Posted by Glyn M Ruck
(Post 4931730)
The car seems stable under enriched mixture open loop conditions. Once in closed loop it does not like any loading at idle. Too early for O2 sensors & no stumble. The ECU should maintain constant idle RPM under load from A/C or PS. I think dirty MAF or throttle body are likely or a TB actuator not behaving. Either the throttle is not opening sufficiently when load is applied or she is a little lean at idle. This is predicated on none of the accessories overloading anything due to an imminent failure. I would expect some sign of this at higher RPM.
Clean MAF & TB. If the car does a lot of short trips it might be plugs not getting into the self cleaning range often enough. I would expect a 300 & 301 to 306 codes if she had the odd misfire. They might be stored codes & insufficient to trigger a CEL. A plug change might help. Here is a video I put together of some of the two things I described, overall its a video of me driving around so look in the description of the video to be able to click on the specific time points where I specify vibration occurs, you can clearly hear the steering vibration at the beginning of the video. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ct4ameEo2Yw After my test drive today and paying closer attention I realized that the vibration when stopping doesn't really last, it happens for maybe two seconds and from then on the car just idles a little rough, but the heavy vibration isn't there. Thank you for being able to come up with ideas so quickly they will be very helpful in finding this problem. One thing though, would you know if any of the things you suggested would bring up codes, not just ones that trigger the CEL, any codes? The reason I ask is because the dealer checked the codes and found nothing. Any of the ideas that put out codes such as the spark plug misfire could probably be eliminated. One other thing- I hate to admit but for the first month or two of having the car I was putting regular (87 octane) in the car, now I use 93 after a fuel treatment. Could this be a cause in anyway? The car has been running off 93 for a couple months now and the problem still persists. |
I hear a sympathetic buzz on the video as though the vibration is exciting a piece of plastic somewhere. Does your steering make a noise at full lock on either side? Can you feel this vibration through any of the controls?
Anyway - some further suggestions. Ensure PS fluid is up to the correct level. These steerings are very level sensitive & if they aerate the fluid they then get noisy as the air passes through the pressure relief valves. PS reservoir is under the RHS air intake pipe when standing in front of the car. Pull the pipe off to access. You might have a vacuum leak. Check all vacuum pipes & breathers. Also check that the air cleaner housing is pushed down properly & sealing over the MAF inlet. Pull it out of it's clips & reseat it. Good luck! |
Cabin Steering Vibration While Stopped in Gear
Did you ever resolve your vibration problem? I am going through the same thing with my car. I have a 2009 C230 4MATIC (Canadian Model) , with 37K. Since new, the vehicle has exhibited noticeable vibration in the steering wheel, seat, and cabin area when braked at a set of lights. The vibration disappears when the car is put into neutral. There is a wave of vibration pulsing across the seat and floor pans (almost as if the air conditioner were to be turned on).
Dealer recently replaced motor mounts, which seemed to 'soften' the vibration, but did not eliminate it. Car does not vibrate when driving. When I am braking and the idle drops to its lowest point 500rpm, the vibration is at its worst. Dealer has looked at this and no codes ever show up. I am wondering if the transmission mounts could be the problem? I am running out of ideas, and find this quite frustrating. Anyone on here with a similar vehicle/problem , who has actually figured out the problem? Help appreciated :bow:. |
Originally Posted by 09C2304MATIC
(Post 4947255)
Did you ever resolve your vibration problem? I am going through the same thing with my car. I have a 2009 C230 4MATIC (Canadian Model) , with 37K. Since new, the vehicle has exhibited noticeable vibration in the steering wheel, seat, and cabin area when braked at a set of lights. The vibration disappears when the car is put into neutral. There is a wave of vibration pulsing across the seat and floor pans (almost as if the air conditioner were to be turned on).
Dealer recently replaced motor mounts, which seemed to 'soften' the vibration, but did not eliminate it. Car does not vibrate when driving. When I am braking and the idle drops to its lowest point 500rpm, the vibration is at its worst. Dealer has looked at this and no codes ever show up. I am wondering if the transmission mounts could be the problem? I am running out of ideas, and find this quite frustrating. Anyone on here with a similar vehicle/problem , who has actually figured out the problem? Help appreciated :bow:. No I haven't figured it out, but I am planning to take the car to my mechanic with some of Glyn's ideas, thanks again Glyn! I really hope its not the mounts as that sounds very like a very costly repair, I'm hoping it's something small my mechanic can clean or replace in the engine. Let me ask you Have you ever put 87 octane in it or do your air filters need to be replaced? (just asking to see if we have common circumstances, I don't think it is a solution.) |
Perhaps the Gas?
I actually had my car in the shop yesterday, as the vehicle is still under full warranty. The motor mounts were changed under full warranty (did not cost me anything), but also did not resolve the idle vibration problem. Last night I spent 1/2 hour talking to one of the shop foremen at one of the local dealers. He said that they went over the car with a fine tooth comb and did not see any issues. He said that they had looked at the transmission mounts and these were fine. He asked me what type of gas I used in the car, I told him I used the high octane 93. He asked at which dealers I purchased the gas, I told him that I bought it where I bought groceries. He suggested that I try buying a better type of gas, as in North America the refinement process is not as good as in Europe. He told me to buy from Esso or Shell. I usually buy from Costco or Safeway. I am not convinced that this is the issue, but I will give it a try anyway. The car is always maintained according to the warranty requirement, and therefore all the filters have been changed in my fall service (1 month ago).
Anyone out there notice gas affecting their idle? |
Bump..
I have the exact same symptoms as the OP. I come from the world of lifted land rovers so I'm pretty familiar with driveline vibration, but this one is odd. OP did you ever get it resolved? |
Originally Posted by AuZZZie
(Post 5070548)
Bump..
I have the exact same symptoms as the OP. I come from the world of lifted land rovers so I'm pretty familiar with driveline vibration, but this one is odd. OP did you ever get it resolved? |
When stopped and turning the wheel lock to lock i get some normal type vibration/ noise when i get close to max turn angle.
The real problem of mine is less than 5% of the time when i am stopped, i get an abnormal strong vibration coming from the torque converter/ transmission. When I put the car in nuetral and unload the trans the vibration goes away. If I place the car back into drive the vibration continues. As soon as i start accelerating and moving the problem seems to go away. There must be an issue with what gear the car may be stuck in or an issue with the torque converter and trying to apply excess power to the wheels even when stopped. I am hesitant to bring it to the dealer just to have them test drive it when there is no issue whatsoever. BTW this is not an accessory issue as the problem persists when my a/c is shut off and the steering wheel is not in motion. Also, my vehicle is AWD. |
Originally Posted by brnrber
(Post 5186394)
When stopped and turning the wheel lock to lock i get some normal type vibration/ noise when i get close to max turn angle.
The real problem of mine is less than 5% |
Originally Posted by caligreenzzz
(Post 5186432)
are you sure its not 6%?
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Mercedes mechanic looked at my car and found that the left front axel shaft had movement in the joint which was causing vibration when at a stop. He said this is a common problem with the 4-matics. The axel shaft/ drive shaft were replaced and the problem is now fixed.
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Originally Posted by brnrber
(Post 5208032)
Mercedes mechanic looked at my car and found that the left front axel shaft had movement in the joint which was causing vibration when at a stop. He said this is a common problem with the 4-matics. The axel shaft/ drive shaft were replaced and the problem is now fixed.
Curious why they replaced the driveshaft and axle. They aren't exactly related. Was your repair under warranty? Any idea what the tab came to? If you wouldn't mind posting some details from the service invoice that would help us all out greatly. |
Originally Posted by AuZZZie
(Post 5208040)
Every post I've seen about this issue is from a 4-Matic owner. Nice to see a Mercedes mechanic that finally has a clue. I'll look into this. Appreciate you replying.
Curious why they replaced the driveshaft and axle. They aren't exactly related. Was your repair under warranty? Any idea what the tab came to? If you wouldn't mind posting some details from the service invoice that would help us all out greatly. Fortunately, the repairs were under warranty...unfortunately, I dont know how much they would cost out of pocket. The "axel shaft" was replaced... "drive shaft" also appeared in the invoice so i thought they were the same and i included that name. it states repeatedly that the "axel shaft" was the issue and thats the part that was put in. hope this helps |
Originally Posted by brnrber
(Post 5208051)
Fortunately, the repairs were under warranty...unfortunately, I dont know how much they would cost out of pocket.
The "axel shaft" was replaced... "drive shaft" also appeared in the invoice so i thought they were the same and i included that name. it states repeatedly that the "axel shaft" was the issue and thats the part that was put in. hope this helps I could see there possibly being load from the Transfer Case to the diff causing the vibration, but at idle the axle shaft to diff is doing nothing. Not doubting that was the fix, just trying to work out exactly what it was so I can do the same without throwing to much money away. |
Ok i think I found a logical explanation. It sounds like play/slop in the CV joint which allows the differential to turn back and forth creating the vibe/chatter.
Makes sense I guess. The bad news. Axles for this car are around $1000 each side and I have no idea how to determine which Axle has the shot CV. This car is going, but I don't like selling cars with problems so I'd like to fix it before I sell it. |
I have the same issue on my w203. I heard it could mean you need a transmission flush. or a vacuum hose is broken.
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I'm also having the same issues, small vibrations when stopping, and my steering wheel shakes when stopping. Any ideas ?
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Similar problem here - when the car is stopped at a red light with foot on the brake, you can feel slight vibration through the brake pedal and the steering wheel. It was not there when we bought it at 23K miles. Right now the car has 45k miles. I'll have to mention it to the service dept before the extended warranty runs out.
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Originally Posted by jgcalderonperez
(Post 5211503)
I'm also having the same issues, small vibrations when stopping, and my steering wheel shakes when stopping. Any ideas ?
Everyone with the problem is an ealy 4Matic. I think it's safe to say it's a legitimate problem. EDIT: My appologizes. The solution wasn't posted in this thread. In another thread one of the gents with the issue finally got a competant dealer. THe problem was one of his front axles. There is play in the CV joint which causes the axle to bounce around slightly at idle creating the vibration. AWD cars seem to be notorious for Idle vibrations if anything is off with their axles. Look at the Subaru Forester guys for instance. |
I have this same issue and taking to the dealer this week. 09 C230 4matic with 42K kilometers.
I know it's not brake, brake boost related etc, since when stopped with foot on the brake deep heavy vibration starts, then even when off the brake rolling forward without any throttle/load on the drive system it still does it, until finally add some throttle and it's gone and i'm on my way. its enough vibration that my wife notices it and says, how come my chevy doesnt do that? lol (8 year old aveo she is speaking of). |
I had the same problem recently but also had a squeak on cold starts I got my pulley tensior serptine belt and idle roller replaced under warranty and this problem went away with that
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I only notice it when the car warms up and is above 80deg its very little but when I drive with a little speed and yelling at grandmas to move out the way , then come to a stop at a light the vibration increases the longer I sitting at the light.
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Originally Posted by Pete7874
(Post 5278767)
Similar problem here - when the car is stopped at a red light with foot on the brake, you can feel slight vibration through the brake pedal and the steering wheel. It was not there when we bought it at 23K miles. Right now the car has 45k miles. I'll have to mention it to the service dept before the extended warranty runs out.
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Originally Posted by Pete7874
(Post 5278767)
when the car is stopped at a red light with foot on the brake, you can feel slight vibration through the brake pedal.
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I'm having this issue only during hard turns.
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Originally Posted by Pete7874
(Post 5625081)
UPDATE here: dealer said the vibration was caused by shot motor mounts. They replaced the motor mounts. The vibration has slightly subsided, but I feel like it's still there.
Dealer said vibration is from motor mounts an replaced 2 bushings. The service adviser she was pretty cool about it and said they might not have solved the problem so just keep an eye on it and let them know if presists. I will be doing just that. If does it again then I'll book another service appointment and have them address the CV-Axle shaft specifically this time. Will keep you posted on the progress. Looks like will be buying the extended warranty since my current one expires in a few weeks and might not resolve this by then (warranty costs $2000 for 2 years 60,000km and just the axle shaft alone costs over $1000 in parts/labour so might as well get the warranty at this point). |
Pulley Replacements Helped Vibration Quite a Bit...
Hi Everyone:
I have posted on here numerous times with the same Vibration 'at idle' issue on my 2009 C230 4 MATIC. Problem was evident from purchase of vehicle new, now with 52,000kms. I have had it into the dealer numerous times, and they even had the car for a whole week. Had the following done: New Motor Mounts - Did not resolve issue New Ignition Coil (One mildly faulty) - Seemed to help a bit New Belt Tensioner and Idler Pulley - This cut the problem down significantly. I had the pulleys replaced due to a squeak, and the result is that the vibration has dropped quite noticeably. It's still there but not as aggressive as before. I also noticed that sometimes I get this out of the blue 'pulse' of a vibration running through the cabin/seat over and above the exisitng ' always there' vibration. If it happens in your car, you'd know what I mean. Odd thing is, there are times when I am idling at a light with my foot on the brake and the wheels feels absolutely still (without vibration). This does not happen for long or that often, but it does happen. So this is clearly an intermittent problem.....99% of the time...! So that's where I'm at with my car. Let me know if you guys have had any other types of pulleys replaced, because there are a lot of pulleys under the hood, and that is where I am leaning based on the improvements that I had with the other 2 pulleys. Has anyone had any other types of pulleys replaced other than tensioner and idler pulleys? |
belts ? motor mounts..
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also, sounds stupid maybe my car acts up or its because of the pulleys/belts my car would shake when i would turn my A/c on....
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Originally Posted by 09C2304MATIC
(Post 5631915)
Hi Everyone:
I have posted on here numerous times with the same Vibration 'at idle' issue on my 2009 C230 4 MATIC. Problem was evident from purchase of vehicle new, now with 52,000kms. I have had it into the dealer numerous times, and they even had the car for a whole week. Had the following done: New Motor Mounts - Did not resolve issue New Ignition Coil (One mildly faulty) - Seemed to help a bit New Belt Tensioner and Idler Pulley - This cut the problem down significantly. I had the pulleys replaced due to a squeak, and the result is that the vibration has dropped quite noticeably. It's still there but not as aggressive as before. I also noticed that sometimes I get this out of the blue 'pulse' of a vibration running through the cabin/seat over and above the exisitng ' always there' vibration. If it happens in your car, you'd know what I mean. Odd thing is, there are times when I am idling at a light with my foot on the brake and the wheels feels absolutely still (without vibration). This does not happen for long or that often, but it does happen. So this is clearly an intermittent problem.....99% of the time...! So that's where I'm at with my car. Let me know if you guys have had any other types of pulleys replaced, because there are a lot of pulleys under the hood, and that is where I am leaning based on the improvements that I had with the other 2 pulleys. Has anyone had any other types of pulleys replaced other than tensioner and idler pulleys? |
Originally Posted by 09C2304MATIC
(Post 5631915)
Hi Everyone:
I have posted on here numerous times with the same Vibration 'at idle' issue on my 2009 C230 4 MATIC. Problem was evident from purchase of vehicle new, now with 52,000kms. I have had it into the dealer numerous times, and they even had the car for a whole week. Had the following done: New Motor Mounts - Did not resolve issue New Ignition Coil (One mildly faulty) - Seemed to help a bit New Belt Tensioner and Idler Pulley - This cut the problem down significantly. I had the pulleys replaced due to a squeak, and the result is that the vibration has dropped quite noticeably. It's still there but not as aggressive as before. I also noticed that sometimes I get this out of the blue 'pulse' of a vibration running through the cabin/seat over and above the exisitng ' always there' vibration. If it happens in your car, you'd know what I mean. Odd thing is, there are times when I am idling at a light with my foot on the brake and the wheels feels absolutely still (without vibration). This does not happen for long or that often, but it does happen. So this is clearly an intermittent problem.....99% of the time...! So that's where I'm at with my car. Let me know if you guys have had any other types of pulleys replaced, because there are a lot of pulleys under the hood, and that is where I am leaning based on the improvements that I had with the other 2 pulleys. Has anyone had any other types of pulleys replaced other than tensioner and idler pulleys? Have you had them look at and address the all wheel drive system? From what I've read the only sure solution so far has been to replace the front axle shafts and then the vibration is gone once back within spec. Just an UPDATE on my visit to the dealer this week. They said they could not simulate the vibration, even when hot, I'm not convinced of this. But what they did to try and remedy the vibration is change one motor mount bushing and 4 screws. They also did the cam-soleniod harnass recall. SURE ENOUGH, on the drive home from the dealer vibration is back. Not as strong as before, so far but i havent even driven 100km's yet and can feel the same vibration. So I'm going to give it a few more days and book with the dealer again. Hope this time they take a look at the all-wheel-drive system, the CV Axle shafts specifically and correct this permanently. Question, anyone else in Toronto Canada and can recommend a good Mercerdes Service shop? Or can recommend how to have the dealer look at the CV Axle shaft specifically ? |
I've been experiencing the same issue lately. Dealer is going to swap the tranny mount. If that doesn't work he's going to replace the engine mounts. I'm scheduled to bring her in this tues. and will report back.
Strange thing I've noticed is that when the car comes off of a lift, like after a tire rotation, the car is perfect again for a few trips but then slowly creeps back. 2010 e550 4matic |
Hmm... I do not know if this is co-related by any means, but I seemed to have the same trembe issue recently... I have a 2008 W204 180 with M271K engine.
It seems that the pre-conditions are: * Slowing down to 1st 2nd gear levels * Car lowering the gear * Breaking while gear change Recent Changes: * Breaks changed (though a while now) * TCU Software Upgrade (managed to break the settings and required re-training of gear changes). Not sure to what extent this has been done. I will get it look into and report back my findings... |
Originally Posted by Kaine
(Post 5656786)
I've been experiencing the same issue lately. Dealer is going to swap the tranny mount. If that doesn't work he's going to replace the engine mounts. I'm scheduled to bring her in this tues. and will report back.
Strange thing I've noticed is that when the car comes off of a lift, like after a tire rotation, the car is perfect again for a few trips but then slowly creeps back. 2010 e550 4matic Talking to the service guy who I test drive with, he said its an issue with the torque converter and the motor mounts just do a really good job of masking the vibration. He says its really a behavior in all modern MBs just that the motor mounts on the E500 and E550s aren't as fail proof as they should be. In rare instances where the motor mounts do not acceptably mask the issue, they would contact mbusa for clearance on addressing the torque converter. Hope this helps you guys out. I still feel the vibration ever so slightly but it's probably only because I've made myself aware of it. |
Cost of Chnages
Originally Posted by livestrong191
(Post 5632325)
So what was the cost for all the changes you made if I may ask?
I actually purchased the extended warranty (for the 3 years = $3k). So the pulleys were all replaced under warranty. Not sure of the exact cost, but have used the extended warranty already to replace a defective front strut (both were replaced). The warranty has already almost paid for itself less than one year in.... in my case was a good investment, as I have had a lot of issues with the car.....! |
I'm still experiencing the engine vibration.
Will be booking another warranty check as I have been monitoring for the last 5-6 months and it's getting slightly worse. My facts so far that I've considered: - fuel, fuel inhectors related - not the issue for me, I'm only on a steady shell v-power diet and nothing else. also injectors cleaned on my last B service - motor mounts - I had them replaced under warranty and did not fix the vibration problem - engine idle - my engine idle has consistently been within spec at all times and i can't attribute that to the vibration problem. especiall when considering I don't get the vibration on any cold starts, it's after dirving and come to a stop, while sitting with brake on, or brake released but no driving yet it vibrates deeply. So I'm had the vibrations since the low 30,000 kilometer range, and continues now and I'm over 40,000 now. I will be going to dealer again since I still have the extended full warranty, but they said if they can't replicate the problem they will change diagnosis fee outside of warranty (anywhere from $100-$200). I don't want to get stuck paying that so hoping that maybe other owners out there might have experiencied this but had success in resolving with the dealer and can give some advice. I paid an additional $3000 for extended warranty and don't want to pay $200 for them to look at this issue and not fix it again. |
hey guys, I have a similar issue on my s500 4matic. Wondering if anyone else has had this axle situation?
My vibration seems to have started after a shop replaced my front passenger inner CV boot. doesn't make an ounce of logical sense, but I've tried everything. |
Just an update on my experience with this vibration issue.
I also posted this follow-up on other MB Forums. So I took my 09 C230 4Matic to the dealer yesterday to have bad battery replaced. Carhttp://images.intellitxt.com/ast/adTypes/icon1.png has 50,000km's. I also asked (again for the 2nd time) for them to address the phantom vibration issue and wanted to give eveyone here an update. I have not picked up the car yet, will pickup tonight and fingers crossed. Mercedes service said they resolved the vibration issue and this was covered under warranty. They described the issue as being the “Torque converter lockup clutch” that needed to be reset. They said it was slightly out of spec. So after replacing the motor mounts on my previous service, and now fixing the torque converter lockup clutch setting I hope this finally resolves it. Will check tonight on the drive home if the vibration is gone. I'm posting this on a few thread on the forum I've seen for same/similar phantom vibration issue becuase if this is a real fix then other's can approach thier dealers and ask for the same fix. |
any updates on this?
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What to do?
Hi guys
Just a bit of info I have a 2002 (sold as 2003 model) c200K m271 rwd auto with 174 000km Besides having an aftermarket muffler for a bit more sound, mechanically the car is stock. I've had my baby for 2 and a half years now and the owner before had it from new, he was an old Asian guy, service records were perfect and he took great car of the car except it never got any "spirited" driving Anyways long story short first problem I had was the engine misfiring under hard acceleration and during overtaking. Turned out the spark plugs were only changed ONCE during 14 years!!! So got the plugs changed and she pulls beautifully now, still got plenty of go in her. However as all you may know I have the "vibration" issue. It started to be just annoying, nothing serious, no CEL. The usual vibrations when stopping, turning on the AC, changing to any drive gear D and R or turning at slow speeds eg parking spaces (very heavy steering for some reason :crazy:) All the same symptoms as many of you, fine in the higher idle range 700-900 rpm but "stuttering/surging/shaking" when in the lower range 500-600rpm BUT now something more serious has happened, driving today with a mate I had the AC on and stopped on a hill while turning and the engine just cut out :eek: I thought that's a bit odd but just a glitch or something. THEN IT HAPPEND 5 MIN LATER AGAIN when I stopped at his house!!!!! and the CEL came on. It just skipped the vibrations and shut down completely! It's had a major service 4000km ago (all fluids replaced, all filters replaced, new oil, brakes, spark plugs) so im really confused, any advice before I go to the mechanic? thanks for any help in advance and sorry for the long post |
c300 vIBRATION
I've been dealing with vibrations in the driveshaft since I bought my used 2010 C300 4Matic. Finally I hope the new transmission (with tranfer case) and torque converter ewill fix the issue. Starting at 26k miles until yesterday (56k) I've felt a "pulsing" at various speeds, independent of engine rpm. I feel it mostly in the drivers seat, gas pedal and gear shifter. Speeds from 100mph to 2mph. Hardest part to diagnose was the randomness of the pulsing, comes and goes. But I knew it was center-chasis. Dealer tried everything - 2 sets of rims, 3 sets different tires, etc.
Hopefully the new tranny and torque converter will fix my issues. Other issue I've had is the performance of the AWD. On rainy or snowy roads the rear of the car feels like it is going to kick out on me - so I constantly have to correct (or over-correct) with the steering wheel. Maybe the torque converter is the root cause and this will go away. Any one have thoughts? |
Check these items(common over looked items)
1.engine mounts 2.trans mount 3. Flex discs 4.Driveshaft bearing Had a customer with w221 s550.Complaint was lack of power and harsh ride with vibrations. After diag found that both engine mounts/trans mounts were toast causing the motor to sit on the sub frame. So now all engine/trans movements were transmitted to the car and visa versa. The knock sensors were picking up hard bumps/harsh ride and pulling back on timing and fuel. |
Is it normal just to replace 1 motor mount or should you replace all off them including the one on the transmission? How many total mounts does the w204 have anyway?
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I have a 2008 C300 Sport 4matic. 90,000 miles
When I come to a complete stop I get vibrations. If i put the car in neutral it goes away. Cleaned MAF sensor, Throttle body, New plugs and air filters. Nothing has helped. Could this be a vacuum leak? |
Im guessing you've never driven a Smart Car
Originally Posted by AdidasC230
(Post 4931361)
why are you putting your car into neutral at every stop light? Its an auto your supposed to simply put your foot on the brake. Yes your RPM will drop a bit when you do that as the car either grabs or releases engagement to the engine.
Also when you refer to steering, the PS pump is being used and also will cause momentary draw on the car, much like the a/c ect...its pretty standard, in fact every car I've known may surge or lower in rpm at low speed steering or when coming to a light. If you really feel there is an issue, your best to get it into a shop so some one can look at it. if anything maybe the transfluids low the shaking while idling for someone who drives a smart car often it gets very annoying, and especially in stop and go trafficputting it in neutral is the only way to alleviate this stress. |
Originally Posted by LandSeaAir
(Post 4931960)
Its amazing how much you know.
Here is a video I put together of some of the two things I described, overall its a video of me driving around so look in the description of the video to be able to click on the specific time points where I specify vibration occurs, you can clearly hear the steering vibration at the beginning of the video. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ct4ameEo2Yw After my test drive today and paying closer attention I realized that the vibration when stopping doesn't really last, it happens for maybe two seconds and from then on the car just idles a little rough, but the heavy vibration isn't there. Thank you for being able to come up with ideas so quickly they will be very helpful in finding this problem. One thing though, would you know if any of the things you suggested would bring up codes, not just ones that trigger the CEL, any codes? The reason I ask is because the dealer checked the codes and found nothing. Any of the ideas that put out codes such as the spark plug misfire could probably be eliminated. One other thing- I hate to admit but for the first month or two of having the car I was putting regular (87 octane) in the car, now I use 93 after a fuel treatment. Could this be a cause in anyway? The car has been running off 93 for a couple months now and the problem still persists. Thanks |
Hey guys,
I'm having this issue on my 2008 Mercedes Benz C300. As soon as it comes to a complete stop, it shakes. Couple weeks ago, my vehicle wasn't starting and it was throttling (I could smell the gas). Two hours after, it started up again and it was fine. Haven't had the issue since. What could be the issue? Thanks all! |
mercedes vibration
I had a similar problem with my merc.it was vibrating alot when idling.i looked everywhere for the problem with no avail.i can say to all merc owners with a vibrating problem that i found the culprit.i replaced both the 2 main engine mountings and the problem is gone!
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I replaced my motor mounts and this helped reduce the vibration some, but now it seems like its coming back. Im just not sure what direction to head in now. Should i have the transmission mounts replaced ? mines is similar, vibrates hard for 2 seconds when stopping and has a rough idle
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My dad said that is the brake cooling. Hes had people complain about it and really get mad at the car for it. Thats why its experiencd on many models 4matic and not
Not sure about the steering wheel, but the feeling through hte brakes of the rumble is brake cooling from my dads explanation. mrm relation manager/european delivery salesman My C class has this happen depending on weather, and after intense pressure applied to brake while driving hard; (NOT all of your symptoms will fall under this umbrella) I had a catalytic converter fail from previous owner using 86 0_o |
Did Torque converter lockup clutch solve the engine vibration when stop on light
Did u solve the problem when break on light
Originally Posted by serialize
(Post 5996991)
Just an update on my experience with this vibration issue.
I also posted this follow-up on other MB Forums. So I took my 09 C230 4Matic to the dealer yesterday to have bad battery replaced. Carhttp://images.intellitxt.com/ast/adTypes/icon1.png has 50,000km's. I also asked (again for the 2nd time) for them to address the phantom vibration issue and wanted to give eveyone here an update. I have not picked up the car yet, will pickup tonight and fingers crossed. Mercedes service said they resolved the vibration issue and this was covered under warranty. They described the issue as being the “Torque converter lockup clutch” that needed to be reset. They said it was slightly out of spec. So after replacing the motor mounts on my previous service, and now fixing the torque converter lockup clutch setting I hope this finally resolves it. Will check tonight on the drive home if the vibration is gone. I'm posting this on a few thread on the forum I've seen for same/similar phantom vibration issue becuase if this is a real fix then other's can approach thier dealers and ask for the same fix. |
I've been noticing the same issue in my 4matic. However, I just thought it was a normal thing as my other cars have had the same vibration. They've been older cars though. The vibration seems to come and go though, and more often than not it isn't there. It doesn't really both me all too much. Is this something that if it goes unchecked will cause permanent damage to the car?
..I've got an extended warranty through a third party, and I have a feeling it's going to be an up hill battle to get them to cover the repairs... Update: After some investigation, it seems the vibration only happens when my motor starts up from a cold start or a luke warm start. After driving for a bit, the vibration subsides. The vibration also seems to increase and decrease with the RPM's, but only when it's not in gear. When in gear there is no vibration until coming to a complete stop after the RPM's go back down to 500. |
anybody figure it out? , i have the same problem but from all the comments and the way my car is it can be the transmission mount or the left side axle thats a common problem like people say. engine mounts are okay i checked those already
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Here's my two bits... I was experiencing the same thing on a Gtronic tranny 07 E320 CDI. When slowing down and actually braking, the car would shudder, and at times kill the engine. It wasn't until I threw it in neutral that I could avoid it stalling.
Other times it would not engage any gear, when this happened I had to 'reboot' the processor, basically restart the engine and I would be good to go, later I found that putting it in park achieved the same thing. This lead me to look at the tranny, I started investigating and the 7speed Gtronics have an issue with the valve body and electronics once you've got enough miles/time on them (search the web). Maybe the filters/fluids weren't exchanged at regular intervals idk. One day my wife called and told me it went/stayed in limp mode. I had already started checking around for indie shops. I took it to my local MB indie shop, who gave me an estimate of about $2k. They replaced the valve body and electronics, things are better but not perfect. I still get the shudder when stopping and once in a while it get's lost in the shift pattern especially between 2nd and 3rd (like it used to). My indie shop is starting the tell me it's the engine, etc. etc. With my limited experience my guess is the torque converter remains locked and won't release, not sure why or how this could happen, but this means you "feel" the engine pistons firing at low rpm. In my case, after the repair, I suspect either the firmware upgrade to the tranny/electronics, or one of the feedback sensors in the 'new' valve body is responsible for my new symptoms. It's not always consistent and seems to be worse once the fluid get's hot. My other 08 E280 does not have any of these symptoms, about same mileage 150k, but it has additional tranny cooling in front of radiator. I will post my progress as I make any. Cheers |
Originally Posted by Glyn M Ruck
(Post 4931445)
What mileage? Does the engine ever stumble when you pull away. It could be anything from engine & rear transmission mountings to dirty MAF or Throttle Body to O2 sensors starting to cycle too slowly. Is the car storing any codes?
My E500 is diesel-like knocking, ticking, and rough idles. Regards from Pasadena, CA! |
Originally Posted by Giovano007
(Post 6304040)
I had a similar problem with my merc.it was vibrating alot when idling.i looked everywhere for the problem with no avail.i can say to all merc owners with a vibrating problem that i found the culprit.i replaced both the 2 main engine mountings and the problem is gone!
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Originally Posted by K3nD
(Post 6676755)
I'm wondering if the vibration you were experiencing went away or lessen when you put the car on neutral? I just replaced my tranny mount and the vibration is still there. Thanks in advance..
Afterwards there developed a different and more serious vibration. I bought engine and transmission mounts, trans fluid, filter, and pan gasket, prepared to replace one item at a time in order to determine the source of the shake. Once up on the lift, the mech found that the rear driveshaft coupling had one bolt sheared off, and the other two loose. Since I had the gas tank etc replaced under extended warranty at the dealer, they had dropped the driveshaft in order to remove the tank, failing to torque the coupling bolts. So back it went. Now it's smooth as ever. I'm changing the trans fluid, filter and pilot bushing next week. I kept the mounts for another day. My indie refused money so I gave him 3 ArcLight passes with popcorn for StarWars. |
Hey guys...I read through this and I am wondering if you guys know that there is difference between the engine mounts on a w212 e350 magic vs 350 base (rwd).... at least part number wise...is this so? or are they interchangeable? let me know thanks
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I have a 08 W211 E350 4matic with the 722.6 tranny and I have the same issues as well. On some days, the car would not vibrate at the stop light, but some days, it would be worse. The vibration only happens after driving for awhile. It goes away when put in neutral or parked.
I had a mechanic checked for the mounts and they said they were fine and normal wear for a 100k miles car. For some odd reason, the my e350 was completely vibration free after a transmission service for like 3 weeks, but now it's slowly coming back again... Anyone had any luck using Oreaily's front CV axle. $100 vs $1100 dealer... |
Update to my tranny problem
Originally Posted by hernangE320
(Post 6420586)
Here's my two bits... I was experiencing the same thing on a Gtronic tranny 07 E320 CDI. When slowing down and actually braking, the car would shudder, and at times kill the engine. It wasn't until I threw it in neutral that I could avoid it stalling.
. . . I took it to my local MB indie shop... They replaced the valve body and electronics, things are better but not perfect. I still get the shudder when stopping and once in a while it get's lost in the shift pattern especially between 2nd and 3rd (like it used to). My indie shop is starting the tell me it's the engine, etc. etc. . . It's not always consistent and seems to be worse once the fluid get's hot. My other 08 E280 does not have any of these symptoms, about same mileage 150k, but it has an additional tranny fluid cooling in front of radiator. I will post my progress as I make any. Cheers Out of desperation, it occurred to me this might be a thermally induced problem. I bought a bag of ice, and dumped on the front radiator section where the tranny cooler is. To my pleasant suprise, the tranny behaved as new..no limp mode. I had another shop check the tranny fluid level (it was fine), but conditions was like it had never been changed. I took it back to the indie shop with a letter detailing my findings to date. I argued that the 'new' (reworked?) valve body assembly (which has the electronics plate) is defective. As the symptoms are classic thermally induced failures in electronic components. (I'm an Engineer) The said they 're-surrected' my tranny, but that it may now be the torque converter. (I'm definitely suspicious now). Brand new fluids, etc. Tranny is much better..we'll see |
Valve body?
Originally Posted by butter123
(Post 6739676)
I have a 08 W211 E350 4matic with the 722.6 tranny and I have the same issues as well. On some days, the car would not vibrate at the stop light, but some days, it would be worse. The vibration only happens after driving for awhile. It goes away when put in neutral or parked.
I had a mechanic checked for the mounts and they said they were fine and normal wear for a 100k miles car. For some odd reason, the my e350 was completely vibration free after a transmission service for like 3 weeks, but now it's slowly coming back again... Anyone had any luck using Oreaily's front CV axle. $100 vs $1100 dealer... |
Originally Posted by butter123
(Post 6739676)
I have a 08 W211 E350 4matic with the 722.6 tranny and I have the same issues as well. On some days, the car would not vibrate at the stop light, but some days, it would be worse. The vibration only happens after driving for awhile. It goes away when put in neutral or parked.
I had a mechanic checked for the mounts and they said they were fine and normal wear for a 100k miles car. For some odd reason, the my e350 was completely vibration free after a transmission service for like 3 weeks, but now it's slowly coming back again... Anyone had any luck using Oreaily's front CV axle. $100 vs $1100 dealer... I had increasing vibration while at idle and on acceleration. Installed new engine mounts yesterday and it smoothed out like butter. My mechanic said the mounts looked fine upon inspection, but once he got them off they bled like hell and he found they had leaked onto the bottom cover. He didn't need to remove the exhaust or drop the steering rack, only a torsion bar. Now on to the air suspension. |
Originally Posted by hernangE320
(Post 6741619)
I believe it's more than coincidence that the shakes stop after maintenance on the tranny. You're welcome to try the bag of ice trick, at least it will confirm if it's a thermally induced issue and maybe your indie shop can install extra cooling capacity. I think the real fix will be replacing the valve body assembly (electronics/sensors I think are the real culprit, but it's all packaged together). I hope you find a good honest shop. (there's a shop in Santa Monica that specializes in this problem/repair..I should have tried them)
The tech even checked the engine harmonic balancer and said it was fine. No vibration when it's in park or neutral. At this point, I think it could just be a bad design in the 722.6 transmission. My other non-4matic E350, which had more miles than the 4matic had no vibration at all, but uses the 722.9 transmission. |
Update: I pretty much checked all the local mercedes dealer and mb specialist regarding the vibration issues and they told me it is normal for a 4matic.
There reason: The 722.6 4matic in the w211 have too much hardware and weight sitting on the 3 mounts. The non 4matic version do not have the extra weight from the front CV axles, transfer box and all the additional hardware mounted in the front. So essentially it's a engineering and design problem from the start. I mean daimler and chrysler was in charge of designing the w211 and maybe they thought the design was "good enough". To be fair, MB's quality wasn't up to par when they merged with chrysler back in 98 through 08. |
Hi guys,
I just bought from Germany, November 2009 W212 E200 CGI (milage 104k kilometers). I have the same noise after driving 500km as in movie posted on first site - The sound appear usualy when I'm throttling and stopping (usually around 1500-2000 RPM) from the turbine site. I've changed the crankshaft sensor after orange engine icon appear, but this solution helped me only for one day and this sound appear again! Do you have any solution for this issue?:confused: I will very grateful for your advice and help! |
Subscribed for updates. I have the same issue.
I have the same issue. I just bought a 2011 C300 4Matic and it runs great except for this slight vibration I feel in D or R. It goes away in N, P or "at moving speed." While waiting at a traffic light in D, The vibration disappears once you stat moving or shift out of gear into N or P. The other day, I had new engine and transmission mounts installed. While the vibration is much less than before, I can still tell it is there. The mounts just help mask the vibration. They are not the cause per se. My old mounts were not really bad. Since I purchased the car, I've been combing through the threads for similar issues. It seems that those with these symptoms have all gone ahead and replaced the three mounts. While it has solved the problem for some (likely b/c they indeed needed new mounts), many 4Matic owners (not just he W204) have not had this resolved, including myself. there are some threads that allude to the drive axle and drive shaft particular to the 4Matic. Some have had this expensive repair cure them of the problem. Another seem to have needed a new transfer case. Anyway, I'm subscribed to this thread now and hope others will report back with their results. While there are many threads out there about this issue, many posters do not bother to follow up with what fixed the problem. One more thing. What I do notice, is that depending on the incline of the road that I am on (while stopped in D at a light), the vibration *seems" to diminish to noting, while other lights it is constant. I'm not sure if the wheel position may have something to do wit this. There is also one other issue now that I think about it. When I first got the car, it had the vibrations, but it also had this steering noise and vibration as well. IF I turned the wheel as it nears the travel stops, there was a shudder-like vibration too. Now that I have new mounts, the vibration is less as mentioned, along with much less shudder in the steering wheel when turned towards stops. Like the general vibration, the steering vibration is still there but much less. The mounts are holding/masking some issue together. These two symptoms are likely related. |
hi everyone,
my c200k has vibration when stopping at red lights...some times it started with engine check light coming on i changed spark plugs, coils, did regular maintenance scanner code said cyl 1 something... changed transmission oil and filter...because sometimes it felt like downshifting was delayed too much changed engine mounts thinking might help vibration i still have the problem gas aditive, injectors cleaned, everything ok will double check if gas filter was changed will apprecciate any comments regards, |
Finally Fixed
After having my front CV axles replaced I have had pretty much constant vibration when at a stop and the vehicle is in drive or reverse. If vehicle was in park or neutral, no vibration. After notifing garage of issue, they informed me I needed new motor mounts. Shop replaced motor mounts, still not fixed. Shop then told me tranny mount needed replaced. Replacing tranny mount did not resolve issue. After reading on this forum, I convinced the shop to replace the CV axles ahain (cardone remans from NAPA). After replacement vibration still present. At this point I was no longer going to deal with the shop that did the work as it became apparent that this garage didn't diagnose just threw parts at problems. I ordered a salvage axel and had it installed and lo and behold problem solved. Learnings:
1. A new Mercedes axle is around a $1000 this NAPA re-man $100. Sometime you get exactly what you pay for. 2. Cardone re-mans are crap 3. Contrary to what some have posted here, a bad axle can most definitely cause vibration at a stop when the axle is under load (drive or reverse) 4. If a shop changes a part out, a new issue arises and they don't even problem solve...run far away. Hope this is helpful to anyone dealing with this same problem. |
I have tried 2 aftermarket axle and they both vibrate. I am rebuilding my OEM soon so that should take care of it.
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The lockup clutch operation-Tipping Point-?
Is there somebody that know how the Lockup Clutch actually works with regards to:
On my Izuzu the lockup clutch only engage from 3rd gear onwards I was told. On the Merc I would say its pretty quickly. 1-Neutral/Idle-? 2-Park/Idle-? 3-a)Drive/Idle_? b)Drive/Slow pull away-?......C-Mode(2nd Gear) & S-Mode(1st Gear).... c)DriveFast Pull away-?......C-Mode(2nd Gear) & S-Mode(1st Gear).... 4-With the above understood, how did Mercedes took care of,... call it the "Lock Up Clutch-Tipping point", a point where the idle revs make it want to engage/disengage in an endless loop until 1-car is taken out of Drive, put in Neutral or Park(Drivetrain disconnected), 2-Idle adjusted up or down for Drive engaged mode, 3-Or revs are changed-? 5-Coming to a stop with foot on brakes, off accellerator-? 6-My point is although there may be wear in the joints(Backlash), its not really the primary source of the problem, my opinion on this. I suspect the idle is such that the oil pressure to lockup clutch is such that it stays on its tipping point with the brakes on and certain revs in an endless pulsating loop, messing with the backlash towards all joints involved, and those with the most wear shows up as the worst behaving components. With no wear(new), this pulsating action has no where to go and is clamped down so to speak-? |
I had exactly the same thing...have them check the transmission mount..mine was shot and allowed norma vibration to be felt throughout the car..only when in drive and stopped...put it in neutral and it disappears...dont get sucked into unneeded transmission work...mine was just fixed today 2011 c2504 matic
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Check the transmission mount...I had exactly the same symptoms...changed it this morning and vibration gone...
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Interesting to see how quickly this problem get solved now. Can these engine mounts/gearbox mounts be really that poorly manufactured, I never in my life had such a mount fail on any of the vehicles I owned.
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I have the same problem. My car is 5 years old and I will try changing the mounts to see if it fixes the problem. How much does the mount cost and labor? Is it a quick fix or you have to leave the car for a day?
How do I know if the problem is caused by the engine mounts or the transmission mount? |
Originally Posted by dol4er
(Post 7361661)
I have the same problem. My car is 5 years old and I will try changing the mounts to see if it fixes the problem. How much does the mount cost and labor? Is it a quick fix or you have to leave the car for a day?
How do I know if the problem is caused by the engine mounts or the transmission mount? You can check the engine mounts by watching the motor while someone blips the throttle. The motor will rock noticeably with each blip if the mounts are bad .. Not sure how to test the tran Mount I think most people replace all three HTH |
Update April 2018: The solution for my 2008 C300 4matic was engine mounts and transmission mount. Cost about $900 at my independent mechanic - for me well worth the night and day difference. Good luck.
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Maybe that's the problem
I think u guys have to check all vacuumline, vacuum hoses, brakebooster hoses and test your EGR valve. The EGR valve could cause the low idle, while breaking to zero. Additional air messing up the fuel consistensy, causing fuel consumption increase. Somewhere is a vacuumleak.
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Maybe that's the problem
Originally Posted by LandSeaAir
(Post 4930854)
When I am slowing down to a red light and once I come to a full stop I get this vibration from the engine like a strain on the engine. It only happens once I have come to a full stop, and almost feels like a rough idle, but when I throw the car in neutral it goes away. Its like a strain on the engine when the car is in drive but not moving, is this normal anyone else experience this?
The same thing will happen if I'm in park and I put the car in drive but keep my foot on the brake, I would feel the vibration. Also, if I am in park on pavement, and I turn the steering wheel I get a engine vibration, shake or what feels like strain on the engine. Its almost like I have a weak engine :wall: What could be the solution? a new fuel filter air filter:confused: Update April 2018: The solution for my 2008 C300 4matic was engine mounts and transmission mount. Cost about $900 at my independent mechanic - for me well worth the night and day difference. Good luck. |
I have this same problem on my '11 C300 4Matic Sport. Curious if those of you who said you changed plugs did so with OEM plugs?
I had this same goofy problem on my '05 Mazda6, 3.0L V6. Plugs were kept changed as regular maintenance. Throttle body kept clean.. No sign of vacuum leaks.. No codes... Etc, etc, etc... I had tried at least two different plugs in the car- Bosch Platinum, and NGK Iridium. Problem still existed. Changed all of my intake-to-spacer, and spacer-to-cylinder head seals while I was in there. Still existed. Also existed with OEM coils and with aftermarket performance coils. Just for the hell of it, I installed a set of the generic, Motorcraft Platinum plugs. Problem went away.... That was about 4 years ago. Problem has never come back. |
that makes sense! I have some experience can add to this explanation, my CV joint. my Indy said my VB boots leaks like hell and will lead to the whole replacement of the drive shaft if it's not replace ASAP. Then VB boots installed, but vibrant remains as before both during idle and during braking......
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I had the same problem
Originally Posted by 09C2304MATIC
(Post 4947255)
Did you ever resolve your vibration problem? I am going through the same thing with my car. I have a 2009 C230 4MATIC (Canadian Model) , with 37K. Since new, the vehicle has exhibited noticeable vibration in the steering wheel, seat, and cabin area when braked at a set of lights. The vibration disappears when the car is put into neutral. There is a wave of vibration pulsing across the seat and floor pans (almost as if the air conditioner were to be turned on).
Dealer recently replaced motor mounts, which seemed to 'soften' the vibration, but did not eliminate it. Car does not vibrate when driving. When I am braking and the idle drops to its lowest point 500rpm, the vibration is at its worst. Dealer has looked at this and no codes ever show up. I am wondering if the transmission mounts could be the problem? I am running out of ideas, and find this quite frustrating. Anyone on here with a similar vehicle/problem , who has actually figured out the problem? Help appreciated :bow:. I thought I would chime in because I had this problem for quite sometime. Was first told it was a cracked control arm causing the vibration, got that fixe and did not resolve the issue. Got it diagnosed again and for my car it turned out to be the mounter mounts and transmission mounts. Got that replaced and seems to have resolved my issue but shortly after my check engine came on lol might be a Lexus guy after this is all done and sorted. Hope this helps someone |
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