Break in procedure?
 

I know what the manual states to do for the first 1000miles.

Any other opinions, many other people say to "drive it like you stole it" to do good break in.

New to MB so please help.

Follow the manual. Who else's opinion will have been developed based on more years of experience and testing resources than the people who designed the car?

That is well said. I guess I was more wondering if the procedure in the manual is more of a standard thing as I've seen he same thing for every new car I have brought. Also herd arguments that engines are now broken-in at the factory.

The manuals are reviewed and revised (as needed) annually. For example, there are other threads here about differences from one year to the next for service intervals for the automatic transmission. When you hear anecdotal arguments the key question is "How do you know?" If you're speaking with a true expert, their opinion may have some weight. But, unless there is compelling new information since the manual was printed, it remains your best source of data-based procedures.

While I agree in part, it should be noted (based on a previous inquiry I had here) that the manual isn't necessarily updated as needed. My question was based on the claim (owner's manual) that .9qts of oil consumption per 600 miles was "acceptable."

So to OP, valid question. But I don't believe that engines are at all "broken in" by the factory. I do believe in varying rpm but not redlining and generally taking it easy for the first 1000 miles that are mentioned. I also would not (personally) wait for 10,000 miles for the first oil change. Just my opinion though. If you take your first oil filter, squash the fluid out of it in a vice, and then inspect it you'll find quite a bit of metal shavings (especially in a new engine.) This is my first MB and I haven't changed the oil yet, but will...and will do the test I just described out of my own curiousity.

A close friend of mine, who now is a rather famous SCCA Champion, upon being thanked for purchasing a brand new 1988 Porsche Turbo Carrera, was strictly instructed by the sales team on how to properly break-in his new treasure as they quoted the owners manual. He thanked them all for their kindness, which was then rewarded with several pairs of free tickets to watch him race in a few weeks, along with a bottle of Crystal for his salesman. I still remember standing there watching him play-up to these guys... it still brings a smile to my face almost 24 years later.

So he gets in, starts the engine with just 6 miles on the OD, gave everyone a wave goodbye as he burnt a full throttle patch all the way down the road power-shifting as he vanished from sight in less than 7 seconds flat!

His salesman asked, "What's with your friend? A show off? What?" "No" I replied, "He breaks-in all his new cars that way, besides he's late getting it to the shop for a complete strip-down and racing rebuild. He's got two weeks to race prep it before Lime Rock! See ya'll there!"

PS: He won that race and still owns that Porsche.

Your manual probably states as follows. Stick to it.

https://mbworld.org/forums/attachmen...1&d=1339713212

Some further commentary:

* Benz initial fills with an oil that promotes run-in/break-in. Modern engine oils protect so well that they can retard break-in severely.

* Always watch the temperature gauge during break-in. If it rises above normal back off. Temperature above normal is indication of a tight engine & a very good monitor of break-in. Even with modern production methods every power train is not blue print. There are minor variances in clearances within tolerance.

* If after the first 1K miles you note measureable oil consumption give the engine brief bursts at full throttle while monitoring temperature. These engines use MOS2 coated rings running in Alusil bores which can be slow to bed in if driven too carefully.

* No hard starts in very early life will prevent crown wheel & pinion scaring during break-in. The differential will then remain quiet over it's operating life.

Moral of the story is to drive sensibly but do not over baby the car or you will retard break-in & can in rare cases cause some issues of oil consumption etc.

Your manual is your best safest bet.

BUT driving it more spirited will not hurt it. I've done this to 14+ new cars I've owned, all have lasted 100k miles before I traded them in with no problem, no burn, no knocks and or ticks. Enjoy your new car.

drive it how you intend to for the life of the vehicle.

the manual is written by attorneys.

I've broken in several motors on a dyno, giving it full throttle and full vacuum. They all produced good power and had minimal leakdown.

don't stress it so much.

If you don't care about engine longevity over roughly 100K miles I agree. It's really maintenance of good engine performance above that & up to around 600K miles that poor run-in, use of incorrect lubricants etc. etc. really shows itself in reduced engine life/higher maintenance cost. I'll stick to my caveats as stated.

Not sure if you're being sarcastic, but the manuals are actually written by engineers and reviewed by in-house counsel, which results in some wording changes as well as the distinct warnings highlighted in the text boxes. Attorneys would never write the manual as they realize the document would be essentially indefensible if written by people who were not engineering experts.

This is just awesome. But yeah....follow the manual.

+1^ Whole division in Stuttgart.