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Originally Posted by EPineda
(Post 6147112)
It looks like we have the same problem with my car or perhaps similar in nature. I parked the car the other night and will not start the following morning.
Upon inserting the key to the ignition, the car will crank but will not start. I got these all these messages on the dash: Front SRS Malfunction - Service Required, Left SRS Malfunction - Service Required, SRS Malfunction - Service Required, Cruise Control Inoperable, ABS and ESP Inoperative, Tire Pressure Monitor Inoperative, Cruise Control Inoperative. Additionally, I have the interior lights out, Radio, GPS, etc. that didn't work, One particular problem I noticed, the OBDII diagnostic port has NO power (I tried 3 different units and all of them didn't work) before my mechanic tested it for power. Of course, there was none (see next paragraph)! I decided to consult a good neighborhood mechanic I know and we tried all kinds of checks on different fuses - make sense since a lot of stuff don't have any power at all. ALL the fuses we checked (engine compartment and trunk) where found to be good. One particular part we tested is the 'Pre-Power Fuse Box' (PN 2045403550) next to the battery. It seemed one (1) terminal on this fuse box does not have power where there should be. According to my mechanic, power is distributed to the other fuse boxes (engine compartment, trunk and dashboard) from this part and then to multiple components and systems (but not on all systems are on the same terminal). The Starter is connected to its own terminal so when you try to start the car, the engine is cranking. The other terminal is fine (that explains power to door locks, etc.) Also, according to my mechanic, under this 'Pre-Power Fuse Box' there are also built-in fuses (that are not supposed to be replaceable). In effect, MB wants you and me to replace the whole 'Pre-Power Fuse Box' assembly whenever it is bad. Our tests on this part is continuing, so stay tune. This could be the answer to a lot of question where the engine would crank but will not start. I suggest you do your own testing on this part if you are experiencing the same issues as my car. If anyone on this board has an internal circuit diagram on this 'Pre-Power Fuse Box', kindly please post it, as well as instructions on how to take it out and install the new one. Good luck!! I got a "Cruise Control Not Operable" message today while I was driving for no reason. Everything works OK. I can hear the steering lock engaging ect ect. I went inside for about an hour, came out started the car fine and now the message is gone. |
Originally Posted by IGB
(Post 6914736)
You can search by your particular VIN # on the NHTSA website.....
Mine is a Canadian car and my VIN is not recognized on that site. |
Hi, i am a repair shop owner, i specialize in european cars and had a customer bring his car on towing. Guess what, the steering locked is screwwed.
We had the column removed and figured we can't take the ESL out without destroying it. I thought that we coud replace the little motor in the ESL but as i've read, we can't remove it without destroying it. I am now looking at an emulator to delete this crap outta that car. It will also be the most simple fix that i can perform. Not to mention that the nearest MB dealer is at 500 km. So i HAVE to find a solution. I sent a message to Charles.soori because he is in Ontario, near me(Quebec) so he could sell or rent me the tools needed to solve the problem. Waiting for any of you to reply if you can help me, sell me one of those emulator. Max |
Email sent
Originally Posted by Supercab
(Post 6975904)
Hi, i am a repair shop owner, i specialize in european cars and had a customer bring his car on towing. Guess what, the steering locked is screwwed.
We had the column removed and figured we can't take the ESL out without destroying it. I thought that we coud replace the little motor in the ESL but as i've read, we can't remove it without destroying it. I am now looking at an emulator to delete this crap outta that car. It will also be the most simple fix that i can perform. Not to mention that the nearest MB dealer is at 500 km. So i HAVE to find a solution. I sent a message to Charles.soori because he is in Ontario, near me(Quebec) so he could sell or rent me the tools needed to solve the problem. Waiting for any of you to reply if you can help me, sell me one of those emulator. Max |
Mine went, too. 73K miles. 2010 C350.
Dealer charged $1700 to fix it. Ugh.
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That's expensive. With that amount I can fix 3 cars.
Originally Posted by sancarlosscott
(Post 6981204)
Dealer charged $1700 to fix it. Ugh.
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Originally Posted by Will Faris
(Post 6907555)
My 2008 C350 wouldn't start. I got the familiar signs of EIS/ESL issues in this thread. After a few days of talking to a friend that's a MB tech and reading the forums I thought id try the basics like getting a new key fob battery and moving the steering wheel. No luck there. In desperation I stuck my finger in the fob socket and the tip of my finger was all black. Got some rubbing alcohol on a qtip and thoroughly cleaned the socket out. Inserted the fob afterwards and I immediately hear the steering column unlock and the car started. It's been two weeks now of daily driving and no more issues. Praying that a dirty socket was all that it was.
My son now drives our 2008 C300 4-matic and yesterday he found it would not start when trying to get to school. I took a look at it later in the day and first thing I checked was obviously the battery. I did notice the lack of whirring noise when turning the key, but there was no clicking noise either. battery was good however. Obviously something else afoot so I googled and came across this thread. We had exactly the same symptoms as described by earlier posts in this thread (int. lights work, radio works, windows don’t work, battery good; engine won't start blah, blah…) I then read Will Faris' suggestion and it kind of made sense. Nine year old car; son that never cleans it...huh, is it that simple? Still, I was a little surprised someone dismissed the idea so readily and even went to great lengths in describing why it was such a stupid idea. Given that it was such a stupid idea, I decided to try it. I stuck the Q-tip in the key chamber, gave it a whirl and sure enough, there was plenty of black "stuff" that came out. I suspect, with 1000s of times the key has gone in and out of the chamber it has worn away the plastic material, leaving fine dust to accumulate over time. When someone suggests a solution that sounds too simple to be true, they may well be on to something—especially when someone else dismisses the idea with such condescending contempt. :smash: I'm so glad I read this thread and tried such a stupid idea before putting the car in the hands of a car mechanic. |
Can't imagine that dirty key socket would cause problems ... thanks for the tip.
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2008 C230 4-matic
Originally Posted by Ron Jr
(Post 5246841)
I am so glad I got rid of my 2008.
Word of advise. don't buy Mercedes. Their perception is these we better cars but owning two three of MB in last ten years only had problems and spend money to maintain these cars. Time to switch other manufacturer! |
I've been reading this thread because I have just experienced this issue. I have an 2008 C300 with right under 100k miles. Went out to start my car Sunday and nothing. Just wondering if there were any updates within the last year. Having my car towed to the dealership later today. Trying to brace myself for what they are going to say.
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Originally Posted by AHARRIS831
(Post 7118497)
I've been reading this thread because I have just experienced this issue. I have an 2008 C300 with right under 100k miles. Went out to start my car Sunday and nothing. Just wondering if there were any updates within the last year. Having my car towed to the dealership later today. Trying to brace myself for what they are going to say.
if you need a emulator programed all I need is your eis and working key |
Hope this helps.. or, may be good steps to try for other similar issues
Hi,
I'm not a mechanic nor claim to be Benz expert.. so just a suggestion if it helps in anyway. I had issue 2-3 years ago starting my 2008 C300 after car battery replacement (from AutoZone). Somehow, I got it started few times, but at one point it did not start and I had to call in AAA. I initially thought it was battery related issue, but the AAA tech use to work for Benz Services got my car started in 10 seconds. He told me the car was in "Security Lockdown". He recommended following steps in order. (Note: Try Procedure 2 only if first one doesn't work.) To unlock the security - Procedure 1: (1) Unlock the car, (2) Turn the key all the way without starting the car (3) Let the mirrors open up and everything to reset (~ 10 seconds) -- Should do this every time! (4) Start the car Procedure 2: If above doesn't work, here's a keyless entry option on the key: (1) Press Unlock (2) Lock (3) Unlock (4) Lock (5) Lock (6) Unlock (7) Follow Procedure 1 steps above I was told the Procedure 1 should be best practice for every day use as well! Same issue happened to me 3 weeks ago after my car was sitting in driveway for 3 weeks. I searched internet for couple days trying to recall these steps, but could not find it anywhere! Luckily, I had documented above step and emailed it to myself. Please spread this steps in other posts as I've read about similar symptoms I had reported. Again, it may not solve the ESI or other issues, but this is 10 second steps that may save lot of money and headache for people so please do pass it around. Thanks |
Inter
Originally Posted by c3nthusiast
(Post 5246098)
You key sensor and steering wheel lock sensor may be bad. $800-1600 depending on what's wrong.
What if this is intermittent? Happens to my 2008 C300 maybe 3 times a week. Key battery was replaced. No change. Occasionally it won't start for a while. Sometimes, I leave the key in, and it will beep, signaling that the car is ready to start up. This happens when I'm dialing AAA :) |
QTIP Option?
Originally Posted by TheMoke
(Post 7101613)
I would like to thank Will Faris for the smartest, simplest and definitely the cheapest solution to the "2008 c300 won't start" problem. I'm sure there are a few possible causes and some expensive to fix, but I wonder how many unlucky c300 owners outside of warranty had to stump-up ~$1000 when all they needed was a Q-tip and some rubbing alcohol.
My son now drives our 2008 C300 4-matic and yesterday he found it would not start when trying to get to school. I took a look at it later in the day and first thing I checked was obviously the battery. I did notice the lack of whirring noise when turning the key, but there was no clicking noise either. battery was good however. Obviously something else afoot so I googled and came across this thread. We had exactly the same symptoms as described by earlier posts in this thread (int. lights work, radio works, windows don’t work, battery good; engine won't start blah, blah…) I then read Will Faris' suggestion and it kind of made sense. Nine year old car; son that never cleans it...huh, is it that simple? Still, I was a little surprised someone dismissed the idea so readily and even went to great lengths in describing why it was such a stupid idea. Given that it was such a stupid idea, I decided to try it. I stuck the Q-tip in the key chamber, gave it a whirl and sure enough, there was plenty of black "stuff" that came out. I suspect, with 1000s of times the key has gone in and out of the chamber it has worn away the plastic material, leaving fine dust to accumulate over time. When someone suggests a solution that sounds too simple to be true, they may well be on to something—especially when someone else dismisses the idea with such condescending contempt. :smash: I'm so glad I read this thread and tried such a stupid idea before putting the car in the hands of a car mechanic. I've got a C300 4matic with under 100K miles on it and seem to be yet another victim of this same problem...The car is with my go-to mechanic now, who just called to say that he can't fix the problem, that it's an issue with the key and/or EIS, and it needs to be brought to the dealer to be fixed... After reading through all posts - was curious to know if anyone else had tried and had luck with the q-tip / rubbing alcohol method? Or had any luck fighting MB on this recurring issue? |
Originally Posted by FLA_MB
(Post 7405388)
I've got a C300 4matic with under 100K miles on it and seem to be yet another victim of this same problem...The car is with my go-to mechanic now, who just called to say that he can't fix the problem, that it's an issue with the key and/or EIS, and it needs to be brought to the dealer to be fixed... After reading through all posts - was curious to know if anyone else had tried and had luck with the q-tip / rubbing alcohol method? Or had any luck fighting MB on this recurring issue?
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/MERCEDES-W20...tak6vA&vxp=mtr Again, get the emulators, they are half the cost and you will never have to worry about it failing again, the only down side is if the car gets stolen, your insurance might have an issue with the steering lock not being there but they dont need to know that. If someone can steal your car without your key, lock or no lock it wont matter anyways. |
ITS MOST LIKELY THE ESL
W204S ALL MODELS UP TO 2014 HAVE THIS ISSUE ITS THE NOTOR IN THE ESL THAT FAILS OVERTIME NOT THE NEC CHIP HOWEVER IF YOU ATTEMPT TO REMOVE THE ESL IN THE LOCK POSITION BY GRINDING OFF THE LOCKING BOLT ON TOP OF THE ESL..AND THEN YOU OPEN THE ESL, YOU WILL DEFINITELY FRY THE CHIP SO ITS IMPORTANT TO TRY AND GET THE ESL IN THE UNLOCKED POSITION THEN DISCONNECT THE BATTERY WITH YOUR KEY IN THE IGNITION ...THAT WAY IT WONT LOCK ON YOU AGAIN YOU CAN TRY BY TAPPING ON THE STEERING COLUMN WITH A HAMMER AND THAT CAN SOMETIMES SHOCK THE ESL TO SPIN ONE MORE ROTATION I DID THIS AND IT WORKED AND SO HAVE OTHER PEOPLE , JUST BE AWARE ITS BY CHANCE CUZ IF YOU PULL THE KEY OUT IT WILL LOCK AGAIN STRAIGHT AWAY IF UR SKILL LEVEL IS DESCENT AND U MANAGE TO GET THE ESL TO UNLOCK, DISCONNECT THE BATTERY AND YOU CAN REMOVE THE ESL YOURSELF WITH SOME TIME AND EFFORT, ITS A DESCENT JOB, AND IF YOUR NOT COMFORTABLE WITH OPENING THE ESL THEN REMOVING IT AND GETTING SOMEONE TO OPEN IT AND FIX IT WILL STILL SAVE YOU ON THE LABOUR COSTS, WHICH IS NORMALLY AROUND 1000 ESL BYPASS IS ACTUALLY A GOOD IDEA THEN YOU NEVER HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT IT AGAIN AND IT IS HALF THE PRICE ..IT WILL JUST NEED TO BE CODED TO YOUR CAR...MOST LOCAL AUTOMOTIVE KEY SPECIALISTS CAN DO THIS YOU CAN BUY ESP BYPASSES FOR AROUND 50 TO 100 OFF EBAY AND THEN GET IT CODED TO YOUR CAR ....THAT WAY YOU DONT EVEN HAVE TO REMOVE THE OLD ESL, OR YOU CAN EVEN BUY A BYPASS THAT LOOKS JUST LIKE YOUR ESL AND THAT WILL THEN BE FITTED TO YOUR CAR SO THAT YOU NEVER HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT THE ESL LOCKING YOUR STEERING WHEEL, ITS A GOOD INVENTION THATS FOR SURE AND THEY WERE INVENTED CUZ W204S HAVE THE MOST UNRELIABLE ESL MODULES...ALL BECUZ OF THAT MOTOR INSIDE THE MODULE |
Has anyone reported this issue with FL models? I have a 2013 C250 with 41,000 miles and I have the intermittent "won't start" issue. I have just been turning it off, take the key out, reinsert and it'll start. Sometimes it's taken two tries but usually one does the trick. Not really happy about ponying up $1,000+ to resolve this.
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Originally Posted by PHXBenz
(Post 7732656)
Has anyone reported this issue with FL models? I have a 2013 C250 with 41,000 miles and I have the intermittent "won't start" issue. I have just been turning it off, take the key out, reinsert and it'll start. Sometimes it's taken two tries but usually one does the trick. Not really happy about ponying up $1,000+ to resolve this.
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Originally Posted by Alfadude
(Post 7733379)
I don't know that I remember anyone on here with a face lift model that has had a confirmed issue with that. Doesn't seem to be an issue with the face lift models, at least not yet.
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Happend to me the other week. 2009 c300 83kmiles dealer charged $1350 and within 1 day it was fixed. Damn steering lock
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Hey
Originally Posted by RLE
(Post 5427009)
It is not a recall. It's a campaign which is quite different.
And it's the camshaft solenoid seals. Some leak and some don't so MB is going to replace all of them. And it's all M272 engines. |
I have a 2010 C300. Steering locked on me the other day when I was removing my head lights as I had the front wheels turned to one side to access fender well. Had to jiggle the steering wheel to get to get it to unlock while key was on the ON position.
Today it won't start again. Bu this time steering is not locked. I can turn it with enough force. Car will unlock/lock. I can use the key fob to roll all the windows up or down but if I use the buttons inside I can't roll up /down the windows. Stereo will not turn on automatically but it will if I press the on button. Headlights won't turn on. Steering will come down automatically sometimes. No whirl sound coming for the column. Jumping the car didn't help. Jiggling the steering left and right didn't work this time. So I think this is another EIS issue. I assumed this only happened on 2008 2009 cars. Had the car for 6 years at 165k miles. Was considering trading it in a month ago but decided to keep it. Now I'm thinking I should've. UPDATE: I had to replace the ESL motor which fixed my problem. |
C300 ELS locked
So I have a 2010 C300 with 75k miles, Ive seen on youtube videos how to take the ELS out and I have seen the hack to drilling a hole into the mechinsim to get to the gear to move to release the pin. Ok two questions after I get that open and replace the motor do I need to still have the ELS reprogrammed? Or has anyone tried this, so on ebay I can buy a whole steering column with the ELS for like $150. So how hard is it to reprogrammed this to my key? Cost to reprogram?
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Originally Posted by chadzilla1
(Post 7846806)
So I have a 2010 C300 with 75k miles, Ive seen on youtube videos how to take the ELS out and I have seen the hack to drilling a hole into the mechinsim to get to the gear to move to release the pin. Ok two questions after I get that open and replace the motor do I need to still have the ELS reprogrammed? Or has anyone tried this, so on ebay I can buy a whole steering column with the ELS for like $150. So how hard is it to reprogrammed this to my key? Cost to reprogram?
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Originally Posted by huotalicusC200K
(Post 7666995)
ITS MOST LIKELY THE ESL
W204S ALL MODELS UP TO 2014 HAVE THIS ISSUE ITS THE NOTOR IN THE ESL THAT FAILS OVERTIME NOT THE NEC CHIP HOWEVER IF YOU ATTEMPT TO REMOVE THE ESL IN THE LOCK POSITION BY GRINDING OFF THE LOCKING BOLT ON TOP OF THE ESL..AND THEN YOU OPEN THE ESL, YOU WILL DEFINITELY FRY THE CHIP SO ITS IMPORTANT TO TRY AND GET THE ESL IN THE UNLOCKED POSITION THEN DISCONNECT THE BATTERY WITH YOUR KEY IN THE IGNITION ...THAT WAY IT WONT LOCK ON YOU AGAIN YOU CAN TRY BY TAPPING ON THE STEERING COLUMN WITH A HAMMER AND THAT CAN SOMETIMES SHOCK THE ESL TO SPIN ONE MORE ROTATION I DID THIS AND IT WORKED AND SO HAVE OTHER PEOPLE , JUST BE AWARE ITS BY CHANCE CUZ IF YOU PULL THE KEY OUT IT WILL LOCK AGAIN STRAIGHT AWAY IF UR SKILL LEVEL IS DESCENT AND U MANAGE TO GET THE ESL TO UNLOCK, DISCONNECT THE BATTERY AND YOU CAN REMOVE THE ESL YOURSELF WITH SOME TIME AND EFFORT, ITS A DESCENT JOB, AND IF YOUR NOT COMFORTABLE WITH OPENING THE ESL THEN REMOVING IT AND GETTING SOMEONE TO OPEN IT AND FIX IT WILL STILL SAVE YOU ON THE LABOUR COSTS, WHICH IS NORMALLY AROUND 1000 ESL BYPASS IS ACTUALLY A GOOD IDEA THEN YOU NEVER HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT IT AGAIN AND IT IS HALF THE PRICE ..IT WILL JUST NEED TO BE CODED TO YOUR CAR...MOST LOCAL AUTOMOTIVE KEY SPECIALISTS CAN DO THIS YOU CAN BUY ESP BYPASSES FOR AROUND 50 TO 100 OFF EBAY AND THEN GET IT CODED TO YOUR CAR ....THAT WAY YOU DONT EVEN HAVE TO REMOVE THE OLD ESL, OR YOU CAN EVEN BUY A BYPASS THAT LOOKS JUST LIKE YOUR ESL AND THAT WILL THEN BE FITTED TO YOUR CAR SO THAT YOU NEVER HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT THE ESL LOCKING YOUR STEERING WHEEL, ITS A GOOD INVENTION THATS FOR SURE AND THEY WERE INVENTED CUZ W204S HAVE THE MOST UNRELIABLE ESL MODULES...ALL BECUZ OF THAT MOTOR INSIDE THE MODULE https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HgBYywHbTos&t=6s |
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