DIY - Brake pad and rotor replacement. W204 C300 C250
6 Attachment(s)
Hey Folks. I recently replaced the rotors and pads on my C300 4Matic and thought it would be nice to share since there's no specific DIY around for this, at least not that I'm aware.
Difficulty: Easy Time: 15min each (I'm young but have a hip prosthesis so you might be able to do that faster) What you will need: 1. Brake Pads - PN 005 420 12 20 Note 1: as for the brake pads, I stopped using OEM's and went akebono ceramic. Why? I Hate the brake dust everyday more and the Akebonos has been very reliable to me lately. Note 2: These pads will fit only C300 and C250 as far as my knowledge goes. Note 3: Make sure the sensor is included, if not, find it with the PN 2115401717 2. Brake rotors - PN 2044210912 Note 1: I used Zimmermann, bought them at autohausaz for 76$ each, I was told they are the same as OEM. Note 2: These rotors will only fit C300 and C250 Sport models as far as I know. Attachment 242760 3. Hammer Attachment 242761 4. 17mm Wrench, 18mm and 13mm socket Attachment 242762Attachment 242765 5. A ratchet, if its long or extensible it will be much better Attachment 242763 6. A T-27 socket. Attachment 242764 7. Any kind of compression tool. Something like this: http://www.kamasatools.com/ProductIm...500x300_-1.jpg Procedure: Raise your car, take the wheel out and put a jack stand under your car to hold it, never ever trust in your jack to hold your car. I will highly recommend to turn the steering wheel to the oposite side, so If you are working on the driver side, turn the steering wheel as if you will make a right. It will leave much more space to work. 1. Proceed to loose the lower 13mm bolt you will find behind the caliper. http://www.globalzulia.com.ve/foros/w204/brakes/1.jpg Just loose it a little bit, then using the 17mm wrench hold the nut between the caliper and the rotor and take the bolt out using the ratchet. http://www.globalzulia.com.ve/foros/w204/brakes/2.jpg 2. Raise the caliper arm and take the old pads and sensor out. http://www.globalzulia.com.ve/foros/w204/brakes/3.jpg http://www.globalzulia.com.ve/foros/w204/brakes/4.jpg 3. Now loose and take out the bolts that hold the brake caliper base to the knuckle. These are 18mm bolts, really long ones. http://www.globalzulia.com.ve/foros/w204/brakes/5.jpg http://www.globalzulia.com.ve/foros/w204/brakes/6.jpg Now that you have the complete caliper assy apart, let it rest on top of something, so you don't stretch the brake lines. http://www.globalzulia.com.ve/foros/w204/brakes/7.jpg 4. Using your wrench and the T-27 socket, release the only screw that holds the rotor with the knuckle. http://www.globalzulia.com.ve/foros/w204/brakes/8.jpg 5. Now using your hammer, hit the rotor from behing to release it from the knuckle. It might be stuck to it, if you can't remove it, use WD40 in the wheel bolt holes and let it stand for a few minutes and try again. I only needed to do this on the passenger side. http://www.globalzulia.com.ve/foros/w204/brakes/9.jpg 6. Now proceed and install your new rotor, put back the T-27 screw in place. http://www.globalzulia.com.ve/foros/w204/brakes/10.jpg 7. Now using your compression tool, figure out how to push the caliper piston back so you can fit your new and fat pads to it. http://www.globalzulia.com.ve/foros/w204/brakes/11.jpg 8. Install back the caliper by holding it with the 18mm bolts you removed before. Install the pads in it and it should be looking like this: http://www.globalzulia.com.ve/foros/w204/brakes/12.jpg 9. Now close the caliper arm, make sure you opened the piston enough so I can fit with the new pads, put the 13mm bolt back on the caliper and use the 17mm wrench to hold it as you tight the bold with the ratchet. Then replace the sensor by pulling the old one out and inserting the new one. http://www.globalzulia.com.ve/foros/w204/brakes/13.jpg The brake pad has a tiny hole where the other extremity of the sensor should fit in. 10. Mount the wheel back on and you are ready. Go for a test drive. http://www.globalzulia.com.ve/foros/w204/brakes/14.jpg I hope this will be useful for you guys out there, any question, comments or recommendations are welcome. |
Good ****. I found a video that shows how to do the rear ones and posted it on a thread I started a few days ago. I'm replacing all rotors, brake pads and painting the calipers. Im just about done with the rear wheels and your post has just complimented me so when I start on the fronts tomm. Sweet stuff.
I went akebono route as well but different rotors. |
Originally Posted by dgghostkilla
(Post 5343626)
Good ****. I found a video that's shows how to do the rear ones and posted it on a thread I started a few days ago. I'm replacing all rotors, brake pads and painting the calipers. Im just about done with the rear wheels and your post has just complimented me so when I start on the fronts tomm. Sweet stuff.
I went akebono route as well but different rotors. |
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I am also a huge DIY'er...thanks for posting this. I have one question though.What purpose the sensor serves.
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the pads get thin to the point that eventually they will expose the sensor to the rotor. once the rotor has contact with the rotor it will activate the "check your brakes light"
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Originally Posted by dgghostkilla
(Post 5343716)
the pads get thin to the point that eventually they will expose the sensor to the rotor. once the rotor has contact with the rotor it will activate the "check your brakes light"
When you see the "CHECK YOUR BRAKES" light in your dash, the sensor is already dead. They live to sacrifice, when the light's on, the sensor is already dead and you need to replace it. |
how many miles do you have when you changed your pads and rotors? I just did my own oil change today so my next project is the brakes
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Did you bleed the brake lines? I keep seeing Do-It-Yourself links to Brake Pad/Rotor replacement but no one indicates they are having their lines bled.
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I am all done with my rear rotors, brake pads and caliper painting. its time to study up your thread and begin my fronts in a few hours :) thanks
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1 Attachment(s)
Got mine done last week to. Makes such a difference.
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why will the akekono pads not fit a C350?
does c350 have bigger calipers? |
Originally Posted by spencer3
(Post 5345974)
Got mine done last week to. Makes such a difference.
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Originally Posted by AkaSigFreak
(Post 5344982)
Did you bleed the brake lines? I keep seeing Do-It-Yourself links to Brake Pad/Rotor replacement but no one indicates they are having their lines bled.
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Originally Posted by rb23lb
(Post 5346062)
why will the akekono pads not fit a C350?
does c350 have bigger calipers? |
Originally Posted by dansonchan
(Post 5346527)
What kind of paint u use for the black out and how many coat u paint on it?thanks
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Originally Posted by ggms16
(Post 5351450)
I don't see a reason to bleed the brake lines when you are just changing the pads and rotor.
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Hi, thanks for the great write up and pictures. This helps a lot.
I have a few questions. I have a 2010 C300 4MATIC. Since it has the sensors, how do those sensors let you know your brake pads are low? Does it flash up on the main dashboard screen? Is there any chance my car does not have the brake pad wear sensors? I believe they do, but it's tough to have any certainty when it comes to a Mercedes.....no manuals!! Thanks again. |
tire rack says the akebono is 3 out of 5 for stopping power? I find this disturbing. Shouldn't you want 5/5 for stopping power
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Originally Posted by NorcalMark
(Post 5530030)
tire rack says the akebono is 3 out of 5 for stopping power? I find this disturbing. Shouldn't you want 5/5 for stopping power
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Im not sure sportstick. I would guess for normal driving(not racing) that would be fine. *shrugs*
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Originally Posted by spencer3
(Post 5345974)
Got mine done last week to. Makes such a difference.
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I just did this job on my car, this is a good DIY - one note, the 17mm wrench you need for this job has to have a slim head, because the bolt has a captive washer that only allow a narrow thickness wrench to grab the inside caliper bolt head. The rear caliper bolt setup is much better engineered than this setup on the fronts.
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Excellent tutorial, easier to replace than a number of other cars. I wish Mercedes and others would eliminate the easy to strip Torex screws. Thanks
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Brake Sensor
I just ordered new OEM brake pads for the front and it only came with 1 sensor... Is this normal or do i need to buy another one ?
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Originally Posted by JungAhn
(Post 5762722)
I just ordered new OEM brake pads for the front and it only came with 1 sensor... Is this normal or do i need to buy another one ?
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Only one sensor is required (one each for the front and rears), I ordered Akebono EUR pads and they came with two sensors. BTW the Akebono pads are great, very little brake dust, and they stop on a dime. Good luck....
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Awesome write up!!! Just wanted to add one thing didn't see it in your DIY. Don't know if you left it out for simplicity or if aftermarket doesn't supply it. There are two metal clips in the cradle that the pads slide into they should be replaced also the pads should be snug. My friend made it a point to tell me this cause he sees it all the time at the dealership . When they are not the pads move and sweak or the back pad can crack. He only deals with oem and says it only takes a second when you have the pads out so why wouldn't you unless they don't come with the other ones? You can see one in pic 5 and both in pic 8
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Great DIY. One thing to note that may affect some.
When retracting your calipers, you should remove the cap on the brake master cylinder to allow the fluid to push back easier. If you are doing all four wheels or if someone has "topped off" the brake fluid you may need to remove a bit of brake fluid to keep from overflowing all over everything. Use a turkey baster or something similar. Don't remove too much yet (down to the max line) as it will take some fluid to push the pads back against the rotors the first time out. |
its normal
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can the rear brakes disc on a c350 fit on a c300 sport please someone help me with this because the rear brake disc on a C300 sport sucks
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fwiw when you remove the calipers, try zip ties to hang them from the springs or other suspension component. It prevents you accidently knocking them over while maneuvering the rotors.
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Originally Posted by TheRulesLawyer
(Post 5999027)
fwiw when you remove the calipers, try zip ties to hang them from the springs or other suspension component. It prevents you accidently knocking them over while maneuvering the rotors.
Anybody offer impressions of these rotors if you have used them? @theruleslawyer, thanks for the zipty tip. |
Typical bedding procedure is something like-
Take 4-5 45-5mph runs in a parking lot. Brake hard, but don't come to a complete stop. You should probably get the the point where you feel the brakes starting to fade. After you do this you need to let the brakes cool. Either you can drive at a high speed (highway, etc) where you won't have to stop or you can park it. If you park it don't use the brakes to come to a complete stop. Shift to N at low speed and apply the parking brake to stop. Once your brakes are cool you can use them normally. The point of not stopping completely is it can leave a ridge of semi-melted pad material on the rotor that will cause pulsing. It's important to plan where you are going to let it cool before starting so you don't end up having to stop. |
@theruleslawyer, thanks again..
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Great write up :bow:
Just a couple quick questions. 1) Usually rear brakes last a lot longer than the front. Is this the case with the C250? My "check brake pad" light just came on and am wondering if it's just the fronts or both. 2) I've got ZERO shimmy when braking, will I still need to replace the rotors? Usually when I need brakes my rotors are warped but since this isn't the case I thought I'd check. Sorry to ask these questions but am guessing I'll have to order these parts on line and want to get the order right the first time. |
Originally Posted by RickOttawa
(Post 6098378)
Great write up :bow:
Just a couple quick questions. 1) Usually rear brakes last a lot longer than the front. Is this the case with the C250? My "check brake pad" light just came on and am wondering if it's just the fronts or both. 2) I've got ZERO shimmy when braking, will I still need to replace the rotors? Usually when I need brakes my rotors are warped but since this isn't the case I thought I'd check. Sorry to ask these questions but am guessing I'll have to order these parts on line and want to get the order right the first time. |
Is there 1 sensor for each wheel?
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Originally Posted by Carlos.33193
(Post 6109515)
Is there 1 sensor for each wheel?
Anyways, I am about to change the brake pads on my mom's 2008 c300 and I've been reading up on some DIYs and watching a couple YouTube videos just to familiarize myself with her car. I noticed that no one mentioned opening the bleeder valve while compressing the caliper pistons. Is it safe no compress the caliper piston while not having the bleeder valve open? |
Originally Posted by intel
(Post 6116616)
I don't know if it's different for your car, but for a 2008 c300, only two sensors are required... one sensor for the front and one for the rear.
Anyways, I am about to change the brake pads on my mom's 2008 c300 and I've been reading up on some DIYs and watching a couple YouTube videos just to familiarize myself with her car. I noticed that no one mentioned opening the bleeder valve while compressing the caliper pistons. Is it safe no compress the caliper piston while not having the bleeder valve open? |
Originally Posted by Carlos.33193
(Post 6116693)
On other cars i have changed my own brakes on I don't open the bleeder valve, i take the cap off the brake fluid reservoir, opening the bleeder valve without hooking up a hose with brake fluid in it might actually cause it suck in air.
I just don't want to run the risk of damaging the abs unit on my mom's car. |
one thing when you remove the reservoir cap and compress the calipers your reservoir may overflow. make sure you wash it off before it destroys your paintwork
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Originally Posted by intel
(Post 6116616)
I don't know if it's different for your car, but for a 2008 c300, only two sensors are required... one sensor for the front and one for the rear.
Anyways, I am about to change the brake pads on my mom's 2008 c300 and I've been reading up on some DIYs and watching a couple YouTube videos just to familiarize myself with her car. I noticed that no one mentioned opening the bleeder valve while compressing the caliper pistons. Is it safe no compress the caliper piston while not having the bleeder valve open? I used Centric Rotors and Akebono Ceramic Pads. |
remove the cap on the master cylinder ...
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Trying to find correct Rotors
I have a C300 4Matic (4-door). Are front and back Rotors are different? I want to get the Drilled version but it's getting really confusing.
For instance on Amazon (trying really hard to buy everything from there) shows "Bosch 36010991" as Rear rotor but on other sites it shows as Front Only (I know that left and right are the same for all brands though). Can someone please point me to anywhere to buy decent all 4 rotors for up to around $85 each (all Drilled)? I went to OReilly today. They had BrakeBest but not sure if it's any good (and Rear ones not Drilled). |
Originally Posted by Homer123
(Post 6180680)
I have a C300 4Matic (4-door). Are front and back Rotors are different? I want to get the Drilled version but it's getting really confusing.
For instance on Amazon (trying really hard to buy everything from there) shows "Bosch 36010991" as Rear rotor but on other sites it shows as Front Only (I know that left and right are the same for all brands though). Can someone please point me to anywhere to buy decent all 4 rotors for up to around $85 each (all Drilled)? I went to OReilly today. They had BrakeBest but not sure if it's any good (and Rear ones not Drilled). drilled rotors are not necessary Here are the part numbers of non sports/amg model rear rotors 124 423 0512, 124 423 0612, 124 423 1012, 201 423 0512, 210 423 0412, 210 423 0912, Have a look here http://www.rexbo.eu/mercedes/c-class...e-discs-100626 |
Originally Posted by Homer123
(Post 6180680)
I have a C300 4Matic (4-door). Are front and back Rotors are different? I want to get the Drilled version but it's getting really confusing.
For instance on Amazon (trying really hard to buy everything from there) shows "Bosch 36010991" as Rear rotor but on other sites it shows as Front Only (I know that left and right are the same for all brands though). Can someone please point me to anywhere to buy decent all 4 rotors for up to around $85 each (all Drilled)? I went to OReilly today. They had BrakeBest but not sure if it's any good (and Rear ones not Drilled). |
where is a good source to buy front rotors for 2008 C350 sport? tirerack only has the left and says they are uni-directional. Looking for a place that has both front rotors and pads together.
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Help Please: Replacing Front Brakes and Rotors
4 Attachment(s)
Hi All,
I bought a set of brake pads and rotors for my 2010 C300 4Matic, watched the youtube video and started to change them (starting from rear brakes). I replaced the rear ones really easy and then I removed the tire is front and realized it's nothing close to rear (or the youtube video). Pictures in initial post are dead links too (maybe it's explained there). I am attaching pictures of front driver side to this email. Would you please let me know what are the steps to replace them. I see 18mm screw there and should I find a huge Trix and open those four in back? Thanks, Homer |
Refer to my post in the following thread. Pretty straight forward, but my caliper carriers have std 18mm bolts vs the Torx ones on yours. shouldn't matter, though. Same process.
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...ke-change.html |
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