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C250 - Accelerated and car suddenly lost power

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Old 06-15-2015, 04:19 PM
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C250 - Accelerated and car suddenly lost power

 
Old 09-19-2018, 06:00 PM
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Mercedes c250
No explanation for corrosion

While I cannot determine the reason for the corrosion, I can assure you it has nothing to do with water. The engine cover and the way the ignition coils are mounted certainly surprised me that there would be corrosion on the third cylinder. I have never had the engine cleaned or pressure-washed. The spark plugs and coils had never been serviced either. The car has 88,000 miles. Many others have had the problem as well. The recommendation is to apply Dielectric grease to prevent further corrosion. But no one has designated a Cause for the corrosion especially with a single cylinder.
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Old 11-20-2018, 12:35 PM
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GLA250
limp mode and lost power GLA 250

Interesting to see similar issues happened to MB vehicles. I had a new 2018 GLA 250 with around 8500km and started to observe the lost power/limp mode issue. Especially very inconvenience when it happened on Highway. Vehicle must be restarted in order to be back to normal. Very frustrated.



Originally Posted by DC BENZO View Post
Sorry ppl. Ive been super busy but Great News...MB covered it!
They changed the fuel filter with a new one (not reconditioned) and the car (so far, fingers crossed) runs how it should.

I guess the advice here, is to be polite during your correspondence with the service advisor. Be firm with pushing them to find a solution/resolution.

@Josh - I dont know enough to say Y/N, but id lean to the Y!!!
@michail71 - The fuel is the problem, but the filter location is the expense in this repair.
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Old 11-20-2018, 01:29 PM
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mercedes c class w204 c220
OIL LEAK

HAS ANYBODY DISCOVERED OIL LEAK AROUND INJECTOR TROFF ON W204 C CLASS IM HOPING IT AINT COMING OUT MY INJECTOR BUT JUST RECENTLY HAS THE SEAL DONE ?
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Old 11-27-2018, 08:43 PM
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2014 c250 sport
2014 c250 - P0002 Code and loss of power

Originally Posted by ItalianJoe1 View Post
It's normally the high pressure fuel pump.
MB must be making a killing off these failing parts! Seems to happen to many folks, including myself I'm getting code p0002 on ODBCII/ loss of power on hard acceleration, but goes back to normal after turn car off/on.

I wanted to know if you usually replace all three parts when customers report the problem?
I'm referring to the 2 parts in the fuel tank pump/pump assembly (204-470-02-94-MBZ/212-470-13-94-MBZ) AND the high pressure fuel pump behind the engine (271-070-37-01-80-MBZ)
Or if you just replace the high pressure fuel pump?
Trying not to buy parts I don't need.

Also, wondering if I can continue driving the car until I get the parts without worrying about the car not starting. Does anyone have any history with car NOT starting at all?

Thanks.
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Old 11-28-2018, 02:16 AM
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2009 C180K BE classic
Had a similar issue with my C180KBE (M271 Compressor engine) with the 5G-tronic last Friday on the Autobahn.
Was in top gear, doing approx. 75 mph and stepped on the gas somewhat harder but without inducing a downshift.
All of a sudden there was a knock and the engine started to run irregularly.
The Check Engine Light did not come on and there were no display messages.
Slowed down and cruising along without load the engine ran quite smoothly but the momentary fuel consumption was very high.
Stopped after a few miles at the next rest stop, shut the engine, pulled out the key and waited a few minutes.
Restarted the engine after a while and it ran perfectly fine and has done so ever since.
Called my Mercedes dealer on Monday and they recommended for me to just continue driving as there won’t be anything stored in the fault memory.
Since then I covered about 500 mls and everything is o.K.
Nevertheless I really love this car!

Last edited by Joe1959; 11-29-2018 at 12:18 AM. Reason: Typo
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Old 11-28-2018, 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Jedi78 View Post
MB must be making a killing off these failing parts! Seems to happen to many folks, including myself I'm getting code p0002 on ODBCII/ loss of power on hard acceleration, but goes back to normal after turn car off/on.

I wanted to know if you usually replace all three parts when customers report the problem?
I'm referring to the 2 parts in the fuel tank pump/pump assembly (204-470-02-94-MBZ/212-470-13-94-MBZ) AND the high pressure fuel pump behind the engine (271-070-37-01-80-MBZ)
Or if you just replace the high pressure fuel pump?
Trying not to buy parts I don't need.

Also, wondering if I can continue driving the car until I get the parts without worrying about the car not starting. Does anyone have any history with car NOT starting at all?

Thanks.
No, it's only the high pressure pump, specifically the quantity control valve on it, that acts up. The low side pumps are not related to this issue.
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Old 11-28-2018, 03:23 PM
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2014 c250 sport
Originally Posted by ItalianJoe1 View Post
No, it's only the high pressure pump, specifically the quantity control valve on it, that acts up. The low side pumps are not related to this issue.
Any tutorials out there on how to replace the HPFP on a 2014 C250/w204? Have you thought of making one perhaps? You have cut down a replacement to 27 min. lol
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Old 11-28-2018, 04:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Jedi78 View Post
Any tutorials out there on how to replace the HPFP on a 2014 C250/w204? Have you thought of making one perhaps? You have cut down a replacement to 27 min. lol
I get paid the same whether I take all day or 1 hour to change it so speed helps. It's pretty simple to do, but for your first time it will take a little bit.
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Old 04-09-2019, 05:21 PM
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Originally Posted by ItalianJoe1 View Post
I get paid the same whether I take all day or 1 hour to change it so speed helps. It's pretty simple to do, but for your first time it will take a little bit.
Hey Joe,
I am undertaking this job this weekend and am going to go buy the specific parts to do so. After watching Audi A4 videos, because their's are also in the back, I made a list of tools.
This is the video I am referring to:



How similar are the tools since I believe you have had experience with it? I have written 13mm, 14mm, and 1 long+1stubby17mm wrench, a T30 Torx, an 8mm triple square socket, some extensions for the banjo bolt and something magnetic to grab the banjo bolt when it comes off.

I also read you cranked the engine 57 degrees to set the camshaft to the correct location.

In the video, he removes the HPFP Fuse and then starts the engine and lets it run until it stalls so the engine depressurizes. After removing the fuel lines, PVC hoses, bleed valve, and connectors he removes the banjo bolt. He also disconnects the vacuum line nearby/above the HPFP area for more space when working on it. Then he removes the three Torx bolts to fully remove the HPFP.
  • When he goes to put the new one in he cranks the engine a bit to turn the crankshaft so it's at the lowest point possible. What did you do or mean by cranking the engine 57 degrees?
For anyone reading that's looking for a similar DIY guide to at least go by, after cranking the engine to lower the camshaft the puts on the new HPFP by first pushing it in slightly and initially screwing all three bolts on. Then he tightens one at a time in a rotation and evenly. So he tightens one a little then the next a little and so on so the new HPFP goes in straight and not crooked. Make sure to replace the gasket before you put in your HPFP with a new gasket. After that, he reconnects the vacuum lines, PVC pipes, and banjo bolt.

If all goes well, I will be making a DIY video in the hopes that others can also fix their God Forsaken High-Pressure Fuel Pumps without having to go to the Stealership.
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Old 04-09-2019, 06:39 PM
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Good luck to you RUINEDW204!!!
And salute to you for making a DIY video... If that video was out there I would have attempted to do it myself as well.
Update on my W204 - it's MosDef the HPFP! I replaced it (shop- paid about $1,100 for NEW PART/LABOR) and the issue is now gone for good! THANK GOD!
After repairs, you'll notice your fuel efficiency back up, torque w/ HP off the jump again!
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Old 04-10-2019, 05:09 PM
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2013 C250
My 2013 C250 with under 45k miles had this same issue occur last week.

Took it to the Mercedes Dealership near me today, and they reported Error Codes of 0705 & 0606

"the fully integrated transmission control unit is faulty. I tested the part electronically and it failed" from the shop manager

The Transmission Control Module costs 2070.00 parts Labor and tax included.

I think this is over inflated pricing and i'm worried the issue wont be resolved as many here are getting a variety of other responses.. Ughhhh

Oh!! and check this out. 197.00 diagnostic fee, will be put towards the repair if we choose to get it repaired there.
During the diagnosis they found we needed a new battery, I told them do the battery now, we'll do the transmission later... okay it'll be 414.00 for the battery, and 197.00 for the diagnosis!!!!!!

The battery issue came to light during the 27 point checklist they do with all cars. Not because of the diagnosis..

Yeah!

Last edited by Effen Dunn; 04-10-2019 at 05:53 PM. Reason: updated
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Old 04-11-2019, 07:48 PM
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Can't attach the workshop docs from my laptop, only pulls it as an XPS file and I can't upload that here. I'll try tomorrow from work, my home PC isn't working at the moment.

57degrees refers to the crank pulley mark, your HPFP is driven on the rear of the cam using a keyway, not a lobe and lifter like the Audi one shown so timing makes it slide in, but there is no high/low to worry about, the pump stops in one of 4 places though so you need it to be keyed right or it won't slide in easily.

I don't remove the intake manifold, the instructions tell you to. You need an E10 or 8mm socket for the bolts, a 17mm for the line, and a pick and or proper spring clamp pliers for the low pressure line. 24mm socket to turn the crank IIRC, and that's about all I used.
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Old 04-25-2019, 09:10 PM
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Mercedes Benz C250 Sport and Mercedes SL550
Turbo issue

If yours is sluggish take and occasionally blows black smoke take it to the dealer immediately that usually mean your turbo is Broken QUOTE=chuang;6006816]Hi strangebrew, thanks for your comment. I think that make sense.
In my case, the dealer did updated the software and after that, the lost power did go away. However, during those two days, the dealer gave us a 2014 loaner car (also C250 that only has around 3000 miles on it), and wow it drives like a totally different car!! It's so peppy and accelerate so good when compare to my wife's C250! As my wife also has a slow commute to work (95% city driving) so that might have explained it..

Anyway, right now we are not experiencing the "lost power" issue any more, but the car still drive much less peppy then that loaner car, and they are supposed to have the same type of engine... I might try to disconnect the battery to try out your tip. By the way do I need to know some sort of "radio code" after I reconnect the battery? Just curious. thanks![/QUOTE]
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