Need a drop what do you suggest ?
#4
Member
if you install coilovers or springs watch for the fuel line...it will cost you 2632 dollars in parts and labor. I believe it's a pressure line for the fuel tank. It's located rear passenger wheel well...youll have to pull back the inner wheel well to see it, make sure it's clearing everything during install! It can't be removed or replaced, as it's part of the fuel tank. So do be careful please.
#5
if you install coilovers or springs watch for the fuel line...it will cost you 2632 dollars in parts and labor. I believe it's a pressure line for the fuel tank. It's located rear passenger wheel well...youll have to pull back the inner wheel well to see it, make sure it's clearing everything during install! It can't be removed or replaced, as it's part of the fuel tank. So do be careful please.
Lmao let me geuss you broke your fuel line? And thank you guys but I'm not trying to spend 1,200$
#6
Super Member
I got luxury model as well and I hate the gap that I have right now. I'm just been saving up a little at a time for coilovers. Around ~$1,600 install from ACM Tuning. The main reason I'm getting coilovers over springs is because of longevity.
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#10
Member
#11
Super Member
Trust me, its luxury. You can tell by the chrome/black out trim on the front bumper and the gap between wheels and body.
I've heard people's experiences for 3-5. Majority of them recommend just to get coilovers if you want to keep your car in the long-run. Some people put springs on their car because it was leased (easier to return to stock).
I've heard people's experiences for 3-5. Majority of them recommend just to get coilovers if you want to keep your car in the long-run. Some people put springs on their car because it was leased (easier to return to stock).
#12
Super Member
This varies honestly. But you will notice when/if your springs need to be reinstated. The car will have a horrible bounce feel to it and the car itself will start to sag. The best example I can give you are the discs between your spine. The primary purpose is to act as a shock absorber between adjacent vertebrae. They are non-adaptable....accommodating.
As for coil overs, imagine something that controls body motion. I will be using the same example of the the discs between your spine. Like said above, the primary purpose is to act as a shock absorber between adjacent vertebrae. In this case, it is almost the same thing as springs but has a tweaking option. The handling(steering response) followed by ride height can be adjusted.
So if you like a more permanent preference go with the springs. If you like a more adjustable option, go with the coil-overs.
Keep in mind that the price of coilovers are more costly than springs, as already know. In my opinion, I say go with the coilovers.
As for coil overs, imagine something that controls body motion. I will be using the same example of the the discs between your spine. Like said above, the primary purpose is to act as a shock absorber between adjacent vertebrae. In this case, it is almost the same thing as springs but has a tweaking option. The handling(steering response) followed by ride height can be adjusted.
So if you like a more permanent preference go with the springs. If you like a more adjustable option, go with the coil-overs.
Keep in mind that the price of coilovers are more costly than springs, as already know. In my opinion, I say go with the coilovers.
Last edited by w204_Generic; 04-08-2014 at 10:45 PM.
#13
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2013 C250 Sport Sedan
can anyone suggest a brand of coil overs? i see a lot of forum members use h&r and a few that uses kw . is one better than the other?
Last edited by tonyyvo; 04-09-2014 at 12:43 AM.
#14
A quality spring will last the life of the car. They aren't a wear item. Shocks on the other hand are. 70-100k is pretty normal for a shock to wear out. Not necessarily leaking and broken, but worn to the point where it isn't dampening like it should be. If you put a new springs on a factory shock expect bad things to happen to the shock. This is probably where "springs" get a rep for wearing out. The springs them selves will be fine, but they will rapidly kill a factory shock that doesn't have the shortened stroke a shorter spring needs.
As for coils vs springs. Springs aren't easier at all. Typically they're harder unless you're install complete spring/shock units with replacement top hats. Coils do require a little tinkering to get exactly where you want, but the actual install is extremely similar. The biggest difference is finely adjustable ride height. Coils can be set in a wide range. Some shocks (like koni sport) have adjustable perches that allow traditional springs to be changed in larger increments. However you more or less get the ride height you get. Also coilovers on average tend to be a harsher ride. They have higher spring rates to deal with the low amount of travel they have at low ride heights. High spring rates mean generally higher dampening too. You can get adjustable valving in either, but its more common with coils
So it sort of depends on what you want. If you're buying them primarily to stance your car, by all means get coil overs. Some street oriented non adjustable one will probably suit you fine. However if you're just looking for a little drop and want to retain a more OEM like ride, some sport springs and a quality short shaft shock is probably what you want. The spring/shock option will get you into better quality components for less money than coilovers as well.
As for coils vs springs. Springs aren't easier at all. Typically they're harder unless you're install complete spring/shock units with replacement top hats. Coils do require a little tinkering to get exactly where you want, but the actual install is extremely similar. The biggest difference is finely adjustable ride height. Coils can be set in a wide range. Some shocks (like koni sport) have adjustable perches that allow traditional springs to be changed in larger increments. However you more or less get the ride height you get. Also coilovers on average tend to be a harsher ride. They have higher spring rates to deal with the low amount of travel they have at low ride heights. High spring rates mean generally higher dampening too. You can get adjustable valving in either, but its more common with coils
So it sort of depends on what you want. If you're buying them primarily to stance your car, by all means get coil overs. Some street oriented non adjustable one will probably suit you fine. However if you're just looking for a little drop and want to retain a more OEM like ride, some sport springs and a quality short shaft shock is probably what you want. The spring/shock option will get you into better quality components for less money than coilovers as well.
#16
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2013 C250 Sport Sedan
if you're just looking for a little drop and want to retain a more OEM like ride, some sport springs and a quality short shaft shock is probably what you want. The spring/shock option will get you into better quality components for less money than coilovers as well.
Which shocks are recommended with each springs and would i need to invest into a camber kit?
#17
Yea I just want the gap gone . I'm in NY so I'm not Trying to buy a new bumper every month. Also not gonna have the car very long , year Ina half the most . So springs might be my
Best interest just need a good reviewed brand .
Thanks all for commenting
Best interest just need a good reviewed brand .
Thanks all for commenting
#18
I may be restating what others already have advised here but if you are going for a steep drop you will want to be aware the impact to your shocks (no pun intended).
If you are going to get rid of the gap completely I am guessing the drop is going to be close to 2" all around. This is going to compress your shocks initially and even more once the springs settle. Not sure what type of shocks are on the lux model but my guess is they aren't the same as those on the sport model which are designed to handle a lower spring.
All that aside make sure you get an alignment done a a week or two after your springs are installed and not when you get the springs installed.
If you are going to get rid of the gap completely I am guessing the drop is going to be close to 2" all around. This is going to compress your shocks initially and even more once the springs settle. Not sure what type of shocks are on the lux model but my guess is they aren't the same as those on the sport model which are designed to handle a lower spring.
All that aside make sure you get an alignment done a a week or two after your springs are installed and not when you get the springs installed.
#19
I may be restating what others already have advised here but if you are going for a steep drop you will want to be aware the impact to your shocks (no pun intended). If you are going to get rid of the gap completely I am guessing the drop is going to be close to 2" all around. This is going to compress your shocks initially and even more once the springs settle. Not sure what type of shocks are on the lux model but my guess is they aren't the same as those on the sport model which are designed to handle a lower spring. All that aside make sure you get an alignment done a a week or two after your springs are installed and not when you get the springs installed.
Good advice wasn't aware I had to get an alignment and my shocks are right on time to be changed all three one shot.
#20
Great explanation on springs vs. coils dude! This is what I'm looking for primarily. Minor drop (minimizing wheel gap) while keeping OEM like ride. I have seen members go with H&R super sport springs to achieve this goal. For me personally, I'm keeping my AMG 18" OEM rims. Are these springs suitable? Or should i look into H&R Sports/Eibach springs?
Which shocks are recommended with each springs and would i need to invest into a camber kit?
Which shocks are recommended with each springs and would i need to invest into a camber kit?
#21
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2013 C250 Sport Sedan
If I decide to go for the H&R Sports springs, do you think i would need new shocks or the stock shocks would be fine since it's a minor drop? Thanks for your help!
#22
I always say replace the shocks. They will have a very limited life while lowered and its such a PITA to have to redo the work.
#23
SPONSOR
Important to realize ex-factory there is only front and rear "Toe" adjustment for virtually all Mercedes Models.
No Camber and Caster adjustment capability to reduce costly, premature inner edge tire wear and increase traction. Also to resolve steering pull and improve steering response along with quicker turn in and reduces dive/lift on brake and acceleration.
K-MAC saw the need and manufacture front and rear kits essential to allow you to return vehicle to factory specs (and have ongoing adjustment) after curb knock damage, altering height, load carrying or fitting wide profile tires.
The patented K-MAC design requires no special tools to install. Both front and rear only require a single wrench to precisely adjust/change settings.
Promotional offer for April for MB World Members USA and Canada. FedEx air freight $25 one kit or $35 Front and Rear kits (normally $70 and $85).
Last edited by K-Mac; 04-10-2014 at 01:55 AM.
#24
Important to realize ex-factory there is only front and rear "Toe" adjustment for virtually all Mercedes Models. No Camber and Caster adjustment capability to reduce costly, premature inner edge tire wear and increase traction. Also to resolve steering pull and improve steering response along with quicker turn in and reduces dive/lift on brake and acceleration. K-MAC saw the need and manufacture front and rear kits essential to allow you to return vehicle to factory specs (and have ongoing adjustment) after curb knock damage, altering height, load carrying or fitting wide profile tires. The patented K-MAC design requires no special tools to install. Both front and rear only require a single wrench to precisely adjust/change settings. Promotional offer for April for MB World Members USA and Canada. FedEx air freight $25 one kit or $35 Front and Rear kits (normally $70 and $85).
And this works with springs only?
#25
It will. They are eccentric bushings. Very common to adjust camber, etc out of factory specs. The real question is if you'll need them. Normally factory adjustments allow enough range for minor drops. Maybe k-mac can tell at what ride height they are recommended.