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Good result, well done! My turn soon after Chris sends me back the repaired clock-spring.
I was able to re-set my ESP light manually by turning the steering wheel lock to lock 5 times but since you now have the airbag light on, you can only re-set that at the dealership or a mechanic that has the right coding tool, they will also re-set your ESP light at the same time.
2011 C300 4Matic, 2007 Shelby GT, 2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee
Went to the dealership today and had them reset the airbag light. So 45 minutes and $164.00 later, my steering wheel mod is finally completed! The steering wheel icon light is out and all is good. In the end this cost me some coinage to be sure and I would say, yep. It was worth it. I like the look and feel of the new wheel and the advantages of paddle shifters are a plus. So what is next for me? Ummm.... maybe wheel and rims. While I was waiting in the lobby I couldn't keep my eyes off this beauty. Wow! One can dream. Maybe someday. LoL! My dash/interior pales in comparison.
Wow $164???? Dang did you consider taking it to a cheaper mechanic shop??
I am fortunate to have a scan tool myself to diagnose codes, but for those that dont: you should take it to a euro mechanic first before considering a dealer.
Yeah, $164 bucks is a bit steep for a code re-set, that's for sure. Any mechanic with the correct scanning tool would have done it much cheaper. Anyway, happy to hear that everything is finally working correctly for you.
I'm still waiting for Chris to fix my clock spring and post it back to me and as I keep looking at my steering wheel sitting in the garage and wondering when I will end up using it
2011 C300 4Matic, 2007 Shelby GT, 2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee
Well, $164.00 may seem steep. But I am in Little Rock Arkansas for training for the next 2 months. This is not my city or my living area. So I am not keen on any reputable indie shops around here and the MB dealership in this town is the only place I know that will do it right, and they did. Piece of mind knowing its done correctly is worth the extra bucks. I would imagine a scanning tool would of cost me about the same. Anyways, I am satisfied that the work was completed with no issues and they went over the car and checked everything (fluids, hoses, brake pads, etc..) and even got a minor detail and a car wash out of it.
I think the vacuum and wash took longer than resetting the code to be sure. As I write this, the steering wheel, clock spring is tip top. No issues.
Do anyone have the contact plate circuit board for the facelift flat bottom steering wheel? I accidentally ordered a W222 instead of a SL steering wheel. Now i am doing the conversion process.
Do anyone have the contact plate circuit board for the facelift flat bottom steering wheel? I accidentally ordered a W222 instead of a SL steering wheel. Now i am doing the conversion process.
Hey Chris. So Here is what I got as the whole steering wheel assembly 002-460-82-03-9E38:
This steering wheel has:
222-905-05-04 (silver left button)
222-905-06-04 (silver right button)
099-464-15-00 (contact plate/circuit board)
099-464-32-13-2A17 - (silver trim cover)
I have or believe i need:
099-464-30-13-2A17 - (new silver cover)
099-905-06-00-9107 - (black left arrow button)
099-905-07-00-9107 - (black right button)
099-464-13-00 - (GLE63 circuit board for flat buttom amg steering wheel)????
?????? - wire harness???
Firstly, a MILLION thanks to Chris for fixing the clock-spring for me and shipping it back to Sydney for no charge. You're a champion mate! Thanks
How did the modification go this time you guys ask? well, am still not there yet and can't declare this modification as "successfully" completed
Installed everything and all the buttons are working fine (not the paddle shifters), but yet again as soon as I took it for test-drive, I got the damn ESP warning again and I almost stopped in the middle of the road thinking am gonna hear that dreaded tear of the clock-spring. The steering is moving freely lock to lock without any problems, so am just totally puzzled by what actually centering the clock-spring really means. Does it have to be dead centre and if so, how can I tell? I am finding hard to understand how to centre this damn thing. Please help with photos if you can!
If you have star DIagnose you can see the angle its in and put it to zero manually. If not you just have to do trial and error. Turn it and and try,turn it and try till it goes away.
If you have star DIagnose you can see the angle its in and put it to zero manually. If not you just have to do trial and error. Turn it and and try,turn it and try till it goes away.
OK, took the car to my mechanic who has the correct diagnostic and coding tool and the angle was off by 1 degree, so he re-set it to zero and took the car for a test drive and received 2 errors both of which relate to a faulty steering angle sensor (C1173 and C1938), no matter how many times he tried to clear these 2 codes, they just kept coming back again after each short drive.
He now thinks that either the clock spring is not compatible with my car or it is no longer working correctly after the ribbon repairs. In both cases he thinks that I won't be able to get rid of this fault unless the clock spring is replaced.
One thing he mentioned which I found interesting is that a good clock spring that is working correctly (even if you get it second hand), should not spin freely in all directions, it has a red locking pin that snaps in place and locks the clock spring when you remove it from the car. In the case of the clock spring you sent me, it was moving freely in all directions, as if that red locking pin was broken. I have verified this with my original clock spring and it is indeed locked in place and can't move and that's why I never had problems re-installing my original steering wheel and clock sprint back everytime I removed them from the car.
I also discovered that the cruise control is no longer working either.
This modification is turning into a disaster!
Last edited by AussieC250; 02-01-2018 at 01:29 AM.
Hey Chris, I love and I share your enthusiasm but even the mechanic told me, how much of a gambler you are LOL
I LOVE this steering wheel so much that am prepared to drive around with it even with ESP fault, but I do need the cruise control. hahahaha
I thank you for standing by me all this time to try and resolve this "monster" modification and I think you're probably thinking "why the hell did I send this damn steering wheel to Australia" but I know deep down you probably as determined as I am to overcome this challenge and believe me, am not walking way from it even if that means that I will score the record for the MOST difficult and expensive FL Steering conversion
It is mate but as Chris said, it shouldn't matter. The steering is still in front of me when I drive LOL
The only problem I have experienced with putting left hand drive stuff in my right hand car, was the rear SAM that controls the tail lights. It is hard programmed to enable the rear fog light on the wrong side of the car and this can't be changed even with coding. The rest of the tail lights functions work fine (except the fog light).
It is so easy...Dont give up on it...Please hit like and subscribe if you like it.
Chris, what's the part number for the steering column you used as my 2010 has the electric adjustment but most of the pics I've seen in this thread are for manual adjustment. My A45 wheel has been sitting on my shelf since my last attempt at install that failed and I finally have time now to go buy a new column.
This is the A45 wheel I got and my stock wheel.
Last edited by Knightmare69; 02-18-2018 at 05:44 PM.
06-10-2015, 12:06 PM
