C250 CDI shudder when taking off
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
From: Bucharest, Romania
2020 GLE 450 W167
C250 CDI shudder when taking off
I`ve been having this problem for a while. Car shakes when engaging clutch in first gear to take off. Does it mostly when cold.
I took the car in a service. They changed the flexible hose of the exhaust (it was completly broken), the transmission mount and the rear brake pads. Don't know which was causing the shuddering but it was fixed... for almost a week. Now it's back... drives me mad
The engine idle seems to be a bit rough too...
Could it be that one of the parts i changed was poorly installed... or is it another problem? I`ll take it back to the service but i just wanna know where i stand so i'll know how to deal with them.
I took the car in a service. They changed the flexible hose of the exhaust (it was completly broken), the transmission mount and the rear brake pads. Don't know which was causing the shuddering but it was fixed... for almost a week. Now it's back... drives me mad
The engine idle seems to be a bit rough too...Could it be that one of the parts i changed was poorly installed... or is it another problem? I`ll take it back to the service but i just wanna know where i stand so i'll know how to deal with them.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
From: Bucharest, Romania
2020 GLE 450 W167
The mechanic looked at them last time. They were ok...
The shuddering happens only when taking of without applying any gas. If i engage the clutch while at about 1200 RPM... it will not shudder.
By the way... RPM are pretty high when starting the car, about 1000RPM, for 4-5 secs, even when the engine is warm.
Acceleration at low rpm doesn't seem fluid as well, something jerky about it. I really think it's something wrong with the flex tube of the exhaust, again... I think i can hear some metalic tic-ing from under the car when at idle.
The shuddering happens only when taking of without applying any gas. If i engage the clutch while at about 1200 RPM... it will not shudder.
By the way... RPM are pretty high when starting the car, about 1000RPM, for 4-5 secs, even when the engine is warm.
Acceleration at low rpm doesn't seem fluid as well, something jerky about it. I really think it's something wrong with the flex tube of the exhaust, again... I think i can hear some metalic tic-ing from under the car when at idle.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
From: Bucharest, Romania
2020 GLE 450 W167
Thanks! I`ll have the mechanic have a look next time. But i think in that case the car would always shudder, not only when cold, and not only when realeasing clutch without gas...
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,714
Likes: 56
From: 1 hours drive north of Sydney Australia
2007 W204 220CDI Classic Sedan
You may be correct.
It could be the clutch also , oil on the face /excessive wear on the friction surface to the rivets or pressure plate spring broken or worn rough flywheel surface. all of which disappears when the clutch material warms up ?.
Have a look at this :-https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pqF-aBtTBnY
Any oil weeping from the clutch housing from engine rear seal ?
It could be the clutch also , oil on the face /excessive wear on the friction surface to the rivets or pressure plate spring broken or worn rough flywheel surface. all of which disappears when the clutch material warms up ?.
Have a look at this :-https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pqF-aBtTBnY
Any oil weeping from the clutch housing from engine rear seal ?
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
From: Bucharest, Romania
2020 GLE 450 W167
Yeah, i thought of that. But as i Googled around i understood that clutch should actually behave worst once it gets warm... As for the flywheel i don't know if it could be so intermitent. After i changed the transmission mount and the flexible tube the problem completly went away for about 5-6 days... 
Fact is... i never heard of transmission mounts or flexible tubes to cause this problem... otherwise i would be sure it's one of them.
Fact is... i never heard of transmission mounts or flexible tubes to cause this problem... otherwise i would be sure it's one of them.
Last edited by slaurro; Feb 23, 2015 at 06:11 PM.
Trending Topics
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,714
Likes: 56
From: 1 hours drive north of Sydney Australia
2007 W204 220CDI Classic Sedan
Judder occurs :-
When cold .
When under 1200 RPM.
Try warming the clutch up by gently slipping it at standstill with the brakes on just for 30 seconds or so .
The rest of the car will still be cold .ie engine gearbox transmission etc.
Then see whether the judder is there at low RPM.?
You have good English !!
When cold .
When under 1200 RPM.
Try warming the clutch up by gently slipping it at standstill with the brakes on just for 30 seconds or so .
The rest of the car will still be cold .ie engine gearbox transmission etc.
Then see whether the judder is there at low RPM.?
You have good English !!
MB World Stories
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
6 Mercedes Models That Did NOT Age Well (But Are Somehow Still Cool)
Verdad Gallardo
Manual Mercedes? 6 Times Sindelfingen Let Drivers Have All The Fun
Verdad Gallardo
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Verdad Gallardo
8 Classic Boxy Mercedes Designs That Have Aged Like Fine Wine
Verdad Gallardo
Flawlessly Restored Mercedes 190E Evo II Heads to Auction
Verdad Gallardo
Electric Mercedes C-Class Unveiled: 11 Things You Need to Know
Verdad Gallardo
Mercedes EQS Gets A Major Update: Everything You Need to Know
Verdad Gallardo
5 Underrated Mercedes-Benz Models That Don't Get the Love They Deserve
Verdad Gallardo
Mercedes 300D Has Pushed Well Past 1 Million Miles and It Ain't Stopping
Verdad Gallardo
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
From: Bucharest, Romania
2020 GLE 450 W167
Ok... My car is possesed :/
I sliped the clutch. It seems that it's not clutch related...
I took it back to de mechanic. He just lifted the car on the elevator and kind of blocked the exhaust for 5-6 seconds to see if the flex tube that he changed is leaking. It seemed not to be... He looked around, couldn't find anything... so i left.
When i left, the car felt alot better. The idle wasn't rough anymore, the shudder was gone, when i started the enging the car went to ~800 RPM, not to 1000RPM like it used to do lately. The acceleration at low RPMs felt smoother... This lasted for almost 2 days :/
How is it possible... The only thing he did was blocking the exhaust for 5-6 seconds... ???
Anyway, the mechanic sugested it could be the EGR at fault. I think i`ll have him clean it cause i know it's not very complicated. Then i`ll head over to a MB service for a computer diagnostic.
Anyway... could an EGR cause: rough idle, shudder when taking off without touching the gas pedal, higher idle than normal when starting the car, jerky acceleration at low RPMs ? ... or is the mechanic just wondering in the dark and brainstorming?
Drives me mad...
I sliped the clutch. It seems that it's not clutch related...
I took it back to de mechanic. He just lifted the car on the elevator and kind of blocked the exhaust for 5-6 seconds to see if the flex tube that he changed is leaking. It seemed not to be... He looked around, couldn't find anything... so i left.
When i left, the car felt alot better. The idle wasn't rough anymore, the shudder was gone, when i started the enging the car went to ~800 RPM, not to 1000RPM like it used to do lately. The acceleration at low RPMs felt smoother... This lasted for almost 2 days :/
How is it possible... The only thing he did was blocking the exhaust for 5-6 seconds... ???
Anyway, the mechanic sugested it could be the EGR at fault. I think i`ll have him clean it cause i know it's not very complicated. Then i`ll head over to a MB service for a computer diagnostic.
Anyway... could an EGR cause: rough idle, shudder when taking off without touching the gas pedal, higher idle than normal when starting the car, jerky acceleration at low RPMs ? ... or is the mechanic just wondering in the dark and brainstorming?
Drives me mad...
Last edited by slaurro; Feb 25, 2015 at 03:21 PM.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,714
Likes: 56
From: 1 hours drive north of Sydney Australia
2007 W204 220CDI Classic Sedan
Slaurro,
I'm the brainstormer !!
Did he give you a quote on cleaning the ERG ?
That cost could determine whether you visit MB first for a diagnostic test.
Does your car do short trips? If so a long blast at highway speeds may burn off the problem.
Here is a list of common problems by a MB tech in Australia on this site:-
Common issues are jammed turbo vanes, air flow sensors, EGR valve blocked, boost pressure sensor faults or vacuum leak to the turbo control valve or damaged intake manifold flaps.
Only having the fault code for low boost pressure and if there is never full power then I'd suspect the boost pressure sensor, vacuum leak or turbo vanes jammed.
Good power than loosing after extending driving (usually constant speeds) mostly jamming turbo vanes.
Cats usually give low power all the time, sometimes after changing the cats the air mass meter dies (it would already be failing, but the sudden increase in air flow takes it beyond it's useful range and trips a new code).
Try putting a rag over the exhaust as the mechanic did & see whether it improves the situation.
Keep us informed on your progress.
JC
I'm the brainstormer !!
Did he give you a quote on cleaning the ERG ?
That cost could determine whether you visit MB first for a diagnostic test.
Does your car do short trips? If so a long blast at highway speeds may burn off the problem.
Here is a list of common problems by a MB tech in Australia on this site:-
Common issues are jammed turbo vanes, air flow sensors, EGR valve blocked, boost pressure sensor faults or vacuum leak to the turbo control valve or damaged intake manifold flaps.
Only having the fault code for low boost pressure and if there is never full power then I'd suspect the boost pressure sensor, vacuum leak or turbo vanes jammed.
Good power than loosing after extending driving (usually constant speeds) mostly jamming turbo vanes.
Cats usually give low power all the time, sometimes after changing the cats the air mass meter dies (it would already be failing, but the sudden increase in air flow takes it beyond it's useful range and trips a new code).
Try putting a rag over the exhaust as the mechanic did & see whether it improves the situation.
Keep us informed on your progress.
JC
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,714
Likes: 56
From: 1 hours drive north of Sydney Australia
2007 W204 220CDI Classic Sedan
MY 220CDI achieves max torque at 2000rpm so the turbo is well & truly operating at this RPM.
I am happy to say that I do not feel any definite time the turbo boosts power when accelerating.There is a lag at the beginning then smooth acceleration until it runs out of puff in the late 3000's.
You should be able to find a torque/Kw curve in your MB literature. I have one for my engine.
I am happy to say that I do not feel any definite time the turbo boosts power when accelerating.There is a lag at the beginning then smooth acceleration until it runs out of puff in the late 3000's.
You should be able to find a torque/Kw curve in your MB literature. I have one for my engine.
Newbie
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
c250 cdi sport
ok mate thanks , in 1st gear the car hardly moves to be honest , in 2nd its has a lot of torque car even wheel spins abit !! but I didn't if my car seems abit sluggish on pulling off etc
Last edited by kane113c; Mar 27, 2015 at 07:24 AM.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,714
Likes: 56
From: 1 hours drive north of Sydney Australia
2007 W204 220CDI Classic Sedan
I am not sure whether you have an auto or manual.
There is a noticeable lag in the auto when first applying the throttle at standstill & yes not much acceleration until a few revs arrive.
This can catch you out when instant acceleration is required eg roundabouts. .
With time the driver accepts this & learns to anticipate the traffic behaviour.
There is a noticeable lag in the auto when first applying the throttle at standstill & yes not much acceleration until a few revs arrive.
This can catch you out when instant acceleration is required eg roundabouts. .
With time the driver accepts this & learns to anticipate the traffic behaviour.
Last edited by Carsy; Mar 27, 2015 at 03:22 PM.
Newbie
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
c250 cdi sport
I have a manual c250 70k on the clock ,I have a big problem now I think!, on Saturday all of a sudden my car was making a strange noise when pulling up , sounded like there was something under the car stopping it from moving , I stopped the car and left it for a couple of hours whilst I went shopping , and re started the engine and seemed ok for about a mile , then I pulled up at my house and the whole of the inside of the car started shaking , I lifted up the bonnet and the engine seemed to shake left to right every now and then , it would run normal for 6secounds and then it started to shake again as in the engine was struggling to run normally , also when strolling along in the car, when it starts to (shake ) the car can be alittle jumpy, any idears on what this could be ?
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,714
Likes: 56
From: 1 hours drive north of Sydney Australia
2007 W204 220CDI Classic Sedan
I do not know whether it is engine tune related or caused by broken & worn out engine mounts.
Any engine lights ?
Time to take it to a good mechanic me thinks before any damage is done.
Any engine lights ?
Time to take it to a good mechanic me thinks before any damage is done.
