Brake pads and rotors question
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Brake pads and rotors question
I have a C250 2013 with 70k miles.
The brake pads and rotors have never been replaced.
Do these car show on screen warning for low pads or should I just replace them given the mileage?
Also, any recommendation for rotor and pads?
The brake pads and rotors have never been replaced.
Do these car show on screen warning for low pads or should I just replace them given the mileage?
Also, any recommendation for rotor and pads?
#2
Senior Member
Do these car show on screen warning for low pads or should I just replace them given the mileage?
Also, any recommendation for rotor and pads?
Last edited by alecmascot; 09-08-2018 at 11:06 AM.
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I'm not the first owner but I purchased it when it had 28k miles on it. So, I am positive the previous owner did not repalce the pads.
#4
MBWorld Fanatic!
I'm at 71,000 km with 4 mm left. I drive the damn thing like I stole it, every time.
You should be fine. There are only brake sensors (1 actually), for the front brakes. I do not believe there are any for the rear....but I'm not 100% sure.
That said, you can take a look at it without even removing the wheels. Not sure what the fuss is all about
You should be fine. There are only brake sensors (1 actually), for the front brakes. I do not believe there are any for the rear....but I'm not 100% sure.
That said, you can take a look at it without even removing the wheels. Not sure what the fuss is all about
#5
Junior Member
I do mines every 50,000 miles, I get good deals ok brakes and rotors, usually about $650 for all and do the job with a help of a friend .
#6
There is one sensor on one pad in the front, one sensor for one pad in the rear.
Dont replaced based on mileage. Replace them once you get the brake pad wear warning. But still, do get them inspected because sensors could fail and not give you a warning. There’ll still be plenty if pad
material left even after the warning comes on, so you’ll have some time.
Dont replaced based on mileage. Replace them once you get the brake pad wear warning. But still, do get them inspected because sensors could fail and not give you a warning. There’ll still be plenty if pad
material left even after the warning comes on, so you’ll have some time.
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#8
Member
still so new to MB that this shocks and amazes me
my 2014 Passat lease has been thru 4 sets of pads and had the rotors turned twice, replaced, then new one turned again... in 42k miles
my 2014 Passat lease has been thru 4 sets of pads and had the rotors turned twice, replaced, then new one turned again... in 42k miles
#9
MBWorld Fanatic!
#10
Super Member
you should periodically check the brakes, Mercedes and BMW have a problem with unequal pad wear. usually the inside pad will wear faster 80% of the time so be sure to check the inside pads. also don't rely on the sensor, its only on one side, on one pad. that means there are 3 other pads that could wear faster.
#11
Member
i also just learned that you should FREQUENTLY wash off brake dust (when rotor is cool of course). If you leave it, it will create a glaze
ask me how I know
and its rhymes with Volkswagen Passat. Now granted, its OEM crap but its still a good practice
ask me how I know
and its rhymes with Volkswagen Passat. Now granted, its OEM crap but its still a good practice
#12
MBWorld Fanatic!
you should periodically check the brakes, Mercedes and BMW have a problem with unequal pad wear. usually the inside pad will wear faster 80% of the time so be sure to check the inside pads. also don't rely on the sensor, its only on one side, on one pad. that means there are 3 other pads that could wear faster.
#13
I recently changed my rotors and pads at 80k miles. Both brand ATE (OEM afaik), both flawless quality. No squealing. $250 in parts.
Changed them myself. Took two hours. Not very difficult if you have all the right tools, but a bit arduous as the old rotors stuck on the rust of the center hub. I gently pushed them off by putting long screws in the bracket holes on the yokes and turning a nut on the inside.
Changed them myself. Took two hours. Not very difficult if you have all the right tools, but a bit arduous as the old rotors stuck on the rust of the center hub. I gently pushed them off by putting long screws in the bracket holes on the yokes and turning a nut on the inside.