oh boy! 08' stopped moving now wont start
02-22-2019, 02:59 PM
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w204
oh boy! 08' stopped moving now wont start
lets start from the beginning and hopefully we can narrow this down before the scan tool gets here.
2008 c300 4matic
I was at a light went to take off and it felt like i was tapped in the rear. lost power from the trans,luckily i was rolling and was able to pull off to the side of the road. didnt have a constant whine at idle but when i revved it there was a metallic spinning noise.
Got the car towed to my house.
tow truck driver left the key in the ignition car was dead. put it on the trickle charger for two days, nothing. took the terminals off the battery and just charged the battery charged fine. finally hooked it all up to start the car to start diagnosis on what it could be. every light imaginable on (srs malfunction, ABS and ESP currently unavailable, take your key from the ignition, flip out screen kept going up and down and would get start 1/4 of the way down). checked fuses, let the car sit, tried turning the wheel to start, best i got was a lights out and the click like it was going to start.
are these two completely unrelated problems that just so happen to have happened simultaneously? or could i be lucky and this just be all from EIS causing the no power issue. and will a scan tool help me now that the car was sitting and has no info stored to show?
more info: battery is 2-3 years old, never had a starting issue. front driveshaft was replaced almost a year ago.
first time posting in the MB forums be gentle.
2008 c300 4matic
I was at a light went to take off and it felt like i was tapped in the rear. lost power from the trans,luckily i was rolling and was able to pull off to the side of the road. didnt have a constant whine at idle but when i revved it there was a metallic spinning noise.
Got the car towed to my house.
tow truck driver left the key in the ignition car was dead. put it on the trickle charger for two days, nothing. took the terminals off the battery and just charged the battery charged fine. finally hooked it all up to start the car to start diagnosis on what it could be. every light imaginable on (srs malfunction, ABS and ESP currently unavailable, take your key from the ignition, flip out screen kept going up and down and would get start 1/4 of the way down). checked fuses, let the car sit, tried turning the wheel to start, best i got was a lights out and the click like it was going to start.
are these two completely unrelated problems that just so happen to have happened simultaneously? or could i be lucky and this just be all from EIS causing the no power issue. and will a scan tool help me now that the car was sitting and has no info stored to show?
more info: battery is 2-3 years old, never had a starting issue. front driveshaft was replaced almost a year ago.
first time posting in the MB forums be gentle.
02-23-2019, 10:55 AM
#3
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Even with recharging the battery I wonder if a cell was damaged maybe. SRS, ABS and ESP errors from my experience can be triggered by a weak battery. I haven't read or seen any EIS faults that happen while car is running but I guess it might be possible.
I'd try a new battery just to see if that cured the no start, worse case scenario is you return it if it does nothing. When it was towed were you able to go through the gears? I assume so as you were able to get it in neutral but when you lost power from trans how did it feel, did it just coast in Drive like it was neutral or did you have to shift to neutral? With you saying metallic spinning sound I question and think torque converter if you're in drive and hear it.
As Adi said, complex mesh of issues but since it was running when it happened and it sounds like you could stop and start it to tow I want to hazard a guess and think the issues are separate. If you have a battery charger that has the boost start feature you can maybe try that too on current battery to see if it just needs more cranking amps. Depending on Scan tool it will show something hopefully but chance it won't until you get power situated so the computer can trip a code again. What do you mean by you got a Lights out though, as in all your srs, abs etc light warnings went away? Also where does the click come from, under the hood or from the dash? I've never heard a click before for starting, only the ESL motor when key is first inserted.
This is a situation where more info is better even if it's a small detail you don't think matters in your process of troubleshooting.
I'd try a new battery just to see if that cured the no start, worse case scenario is you return it if it does nothing. When it was towed were you able to go through the gears? I assume so as you were able to get it in neutral but when you lost power from trans how did it feel, did it just coast in Drive like it was neutral or did you have to shift to neutral? With you saying metallic spinning sound I question and think torque converter if you're in drive and hear it.
As Adi said, complex mesh of issues but since it was running when it happened and it sounds like you could stop and start it to tow I want to hazard a guess and think the issues are separate. If you have a battery charger that has the boost start feature you can maybe try that too on current battery to see if it just needs more cranking amps. Depending on Scan tool it will show something hopefully but chance it won't until you get power situated so the computer can trip a code again. What do you mean by you got a Lights out though, as in all your srs, abs etc light warnings went away? Also where does the click come from, under the hood or from the dash? I've never heard a click before for starting, only the ESL motor when key is first inserted.
This is a situation where more info is better even if it's a small detail you don't think matters in your process of troubleshooting.
